Auction 25 November 2:00pm HKT

\n\n

JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
\n88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong (map)

\n\n

Viewing 22-24 November
\nFriday 10am-6pm
\nSaturday 10am-7pm

\n\n

Sunday 10am-6pm

\n\n

Read our new online bidding guide (also available in Japanese, Traditional or Simplified Chinese)

\n\n

International Highlights Tour

\n\n

Shanghai

\n\n

October 25-26
\nCapella Shanghai
\n480 West Jianguo Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai 200031
\nPublic Viewing 11am-6pm

\n\n

Singapore
\nNovember 2-3
\nThe Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore
\nMarina Bay
\n7 Raffles Avenue, Singapore 039799
\nPublic Viewing 11am-6pm

\n\n

Tai Chung

\n\n

November 14

\n\n

2301 Millennium Suite, 23/F,

\n\n

Millennium Hotels and Resorts
\nNo. 77 Shizheng
\nRoad Xitun District, Taichung

\n\n

Public Viewing 11am-6pm

\n\n

Taipei

\n\n

November 16-17
\nB1 Art Gallery, Bellavita,

\n\n

No.28, Songren Rd
\nXinyi Dist., Taipei 110
\nPublic Viewing 11am-6pm

\n\n

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Ring","https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/652_001.jpg",5190000,[],652,"652",{"_351":3641,"_89":-5,"_355":-5,"_58":356,"_357":3642,"_392":3650,"_394":395,"_398":-5,"_399":400,"_401":402,"_403":404,"_405":3651,"_407":3652,"_409":3653,"_532":3654,"_411":592,"_412":593,"_91":-5,"_413":414,"_415":-5,"_416":-5,"_417":45,"_418":45,"_419":-5,"_420":-5,"_421":45,"_422":45,"_423":83,"_424":45,"_425":45,"_426":3655,"_428":-5,"_429":83,"_430":83,"_353":3656,"_396":3657,"_540":3656},"135034",{"_359":-5,"_360":3643,"_370":3644},{"_362":363,"_364":365,"_366":1360,"_368":1388},[3645,3646,3647,3648,3649],{"_362":373,"_364":374,"_366":1364,"_368":1392},{"_362":378,"_364":379,"_366":1367,"_368":565},{"_362":383,"_364":383,"_366":1370,"_368":1397},{"_362":387,"_364":388,"_366":1116,"_368":545},{"_362":363,"_364":365,"_366":1360,"_368":1388},"https://www.phillips.com/detail/bulgari/135034","1-2DHU85",153,"A Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Bulgari","https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/653_001.jpg",[],653,"653",{"_351":3659,"_89":-5,"_355":-5,"_58":356,"_357":3660,"_392":3668,"_394":395,"_398":-5,"_399":400,"_401":402,"_403":404,"_405":3669,"_407":3670,"_409":3671,"_532":3672,"_411":-5,"_412":-5,"_91":-5,"_413":414,"_415":-5,"_416":-5,"_417":45,"_418":45,"_419":-5,"_420":-5,"_421":45,"_422":45,"_423":83,"_424":45,"_425":45,"_426":3673,"_428":-5,"_429":83,"_430":83,"_353":3674,"_396":3675,"_540":3674},"132023",{"_359":-5,"_360":3661,"_370":3662},{"_362":363,"_364":365,"_366":3395,"_368":3147},[3663,3664,3665,3666,3667],{"_362":373,"_364":374,"_366":3398,"_368":3399},{"_362":378,"_364":379,"_366":3401,"_368":3398},{"_362":383,"_364":383,"_366":3403,"_368":3404},{"_362":387,"_364":388,"_366":791,"_368":1319},{"_362":363,"_364":365,"_366":3395,"_368":3147},"https://www.phillips.com/detail/132023","1-2DHU8C",154,"A Pair of Ruby and Diamond Pendent 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Arpels","https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/655_001.jpg",3625000,[],655,"655",{"_351":3700,"_89":-5,"_355":-5,"_58":356,"_357":3701,"_392":3709,"_394":395,"_398":-5,"_399":529,"_401":402,"_403":404,"_405":3710,"_407":3711,"_409":3712,"_532":3713,"_411":534,"_412":535,"_91":-5,"_413":414,"_415":-5,"_416":-5,"_417":45,"_418":45,"_419":-5,"_420":3714,"_421":45,"_422":45,"_423":83,"_424":45,"_425":45,"_426":3715,"_428":-5,"_429":83,"_430":83,"_353":3716,"_396":3717,"_540":3716},"135063",{"_359":-5,"_360":3702,"_370":3703},{"_362":363,"_364":365,"_366":2159,"_368":2160},[3704,3705,3706,3707,3708],{"_362":373,"_364":374,"_366":2163,"_368":2164},{"_362":378,"_364":379,"_366":2166,"_368":2167},{"_362":383,"_364":383,"_366":2169,"_368":2170},{"_362":387,"_364":388,"_366":2262,"_368":2173},{"_362":363,"_364":365,"_366":2159,"_368":2160},"https://www.phillips.com/detail/van-cleef-arpels/135063","1-2DHU8H",156,"An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond 'Zip' Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels","https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/656_001.jpg",4350000,[],656,"656","collections",[],"highlights",[3722,3727,3731,3735,3739,3743,3747],{"_532":3723,"_131":3724,"_3725":3726},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/1_hi.jpg","

An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond 'Zip' Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels

\n","version","1571322149",{"_532":3728,"_131":3729,"_3725":3730},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/2_hi.jpg","

A Very Fine Burmese Royal Blue Sapphire and Diamond Ring

\n","1571322150",{"_532":3732,"_131":3733,"_3725":3734},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/3_hi.jpg","

A Very Fine Jadeite Bead and Diamond Necklace

\n","4535",{"_532":3736,"_131":3737,"_3725":3738},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/4_hi.jpg","

A Muzo Emerald, Argyle Pink Diamond and Diamond Necklace

\n","1571322151",{"_532":3740,"_131":3741,"_3725":3742},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/5_hi.jpg","

A Potential Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring

\n","14879",{"_532":3744,"_131":3745,"_3725":3746},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/6_hi.jpg","

A Pair of Jadeite Double-hoop, Ruby and Diamond Pendant Earrings

\n","1571322152",{"_532":3748,"_131":3749,"_3725":3746},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/HK060219/7_hi.jpg","

A Rare and Exceptional Burmese Mogok Pigeon's Blood Ruby and Diamond Ring

\n",[],"articles",[3753,3776,3787,3798,3809,3820],{"_3754":3755,"_3756":153,"_3757":3758,"_131":3759,"_3760":3761,"_3762":3763,"_3764":103,"_426":3765,"_3766":1594,"_3767":414,"_3768":3769,"_407":414,"_3770":3771,"_3772":3773,"_3774":3775},"coverUrl","https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/p84_001-e2714e1f-01a5-40e7-896d-ebbf503adaf7_s600x0.jpg","section","summary","This season, Sarah Ho, Paige Parker and Karen Suen created bespoke Argyle pink diamond jewels for auction in Hong Kong.","Three Outstanding Women, Three Bespoke Jewels","body","

Femininity, whether referring to the physical form of a woman's body or the sentiments it evokes, has has long been a source of inspiration in art—so much so that even the nine Muses in ancient Greek mythology were referred to as goddesses instead of gods. Women inspired; they were adorned; but their ability to create was seldom recognized and honored.

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The 20th century saw significant social transformations as female artists and designers began to come of age. A woman's creativity and artistic expression were no longer ignored. In 1924, Suzanne Belperron was named co-directress at Maison René Boivin before moving to another Parisian jewelry house, Bernard Herz, in 1932. It was during this decade that Jean Toussaint, who inspired Louis Cartier to create the first panthère-themed jewel, became the artistic director of Cartier high jewelry (in 1933) and Elsa Schiaparelli became the first female fashion designer to grace the cover of TIME magazine (in 1934).

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Today, Phillips is proud to have invited three contemporary women, each with outstanding achievements in their fields of expertise, to create bespoke jewels for our Hong Kong Jewels & Jadeite auction, showcasing the exquisite natural beauty of pink diamonds from the Argyle mine in Australia.

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Sarah Ho

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Sarah Ho grew up in Macau before moving to London to study fashion and jewelry design. Her interest in jewelry was ignited by the jewel collections of the iconic women in her family. Sarah studied gemology in Antwerp, preparing her to launch her fine jewelry company in 2006.

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The individual qualities of the gemstones lie at the heart of each of Sarah's designs and she hand-paints each design concept, dreaming up alluring color combinations and striking silhouettes, to showcase each stone at its best.

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Romantic and contemporary arrangements of pearls, diamonds and other gems are crafted into vibrant motifs with her signature enamel patterns, metal lacework and precious beads; culminating in a unique and remarkable jewel. Her work is perfectly exemplified in these Argyle pink diamond, seed pearl and colorless diamond earrings.

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Lot 606: An Elegant Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond, Seed Pearl and Diamond Earrings, Sarah Ho
\nEstimate: HK$120,000 – 160,000

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Paige Parker

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Paige Parker moved from New York to Singapore over a decade ago. She is a patron, board member and fundraiser for a number of organizations in the country, as well as a gemologist and enthusiastic supporter of local fashion, design, jewelry and art. Paige shares her traveling adventures and gemological knowledge in various magazines and regularly contributes to The Straits Times.

\n\n

A proud mother of two daughters, she is a published author with the best-selling book Don't Call Me Mrs. Rogers, which details her years driving around the world and the status of the women, or lack thereof, whom she met on the road.

\n\n

The ring Paige has designed for Philips sees her enhance the Argyle pink diamond setting it in juxtaposition to two yellow diamonds. For daily wear, the ring sits on a thin pink gold band. Ever mindful of the versatile demands in a woman's life, the ring jacket, also set with two smaller pink diamonds, affords a more magnificent look.

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Lot 607: A Chic Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Designed by Paige Parker
\nEstimate: HK$280,000 – 320,000

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Karen Suen

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\n\n

Originally trained as a dancer and actress, Karen Suen from Hong Kong found her true calling when her first jewelry designs won admiration from friends and acquaintances. Since then, she has developed an international following and is known for her exquisitely-handcrafted, bold and extravagant jewels.

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Originality and vibrant chromatic glamour are at the heart of each masterpiece, and her work is often referred to as art. Karen believes that the wearer also plays an important role in imparting her jewels with their true value. She is a recipient of the Outstanding Greater China Designer Awards and was a winner at The Couture Design Awards 2019 in Las Vegas.

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Inspired by the elegant movements of a dancer and a dress that twirls, this ring is set with layers of pink and colorless diamonds 'floating' around a central natural pink conch pearl.

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Lot 608: A Conch Pearl, Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring, Karen Suen
\nEstimate: HK$480,000 – 580,000

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Read & Watch More

\n\n

Argyle Diamond Mine: Last of the World's Pink Diamond Reserves >

\n\n

Graeme Thompson on a Cartier 'Golconda' Diamond Ring >

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Perfectly Versatile: Four Convertible Jewels >

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Jewels, Jadeite & More: A Hong Kong Gift Guide >

\n\n

In the Studio with Sarah Ho >

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\n","publishDate","2019-11-11T14:06:00.000000Z","authorCredit",[],"coverPosX","coverPosY","articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/51254223/pink-diamonds-contemporary-jewelry-designers","auctionEditorialID",705,"editorialID",815,"flocklerID",51254223,{"_3754":3777,"_3756":153,"_3757":3778,"_131":3779,"_3760":3780,"_3762":3781,"_3764":103,"_426":3782,"_3766":1594,"_3767":414,"_3768":3783,"_407":198,"_3770":3784,"_3772":3785,"_3774":3786},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/648_003-dc151dc5-2dc6-40f1-911d-e97339c9fb8f_s600x0_c2307x1347_l0x967.jpg","In this latest video, our Worldwide Head of Jewels shares a fine 7.09 carat diamond from the legendary Golconda region.","Graeme Thompson on a Cartier 'Golconda' Diamond Ring","

A Fine Diamond Ring, Cartier, Circa 1987. Lot 648 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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\n
I realized I had unearthed a diamond that encapsulates everything that makes a diamond perfect. — Graeme Thompson
\n

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\nHandmade by Cartier in the late 1980s, this diamond ring possesses a rare and superb quality that transcends its top color and clarity grading. It is certified as a Type IIa and documented as a ‘Golconda’ diamond by Cartier. A Golconda diamond is distinguished by a high degree of transparency as a result of the purity of its crystal, imbued with a limpid quality that is reminiscent of a drop of ice water.

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The name evokes the myths surrounding an ancient mine in Eastern India, which gave birth to legendary diamonds including The Koh-i-Noor and The Regent. Revered by gem traders and collectors since the Renaissance period, Golconda was considered an exclusive source of the best diamonds in the world. Unfortunately, by the mid-18th century, the appetites of Indian maharajas and European monarchs have completely exhausted its supply, making diamonds from this region all the rarer and more desirable today.

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Golconda diamonds, often said to be beyond white, are classified as Type IIa. With less than 1% of the world's diamonds certified as Type IIa, this pure diamond is as rare as it is beautiful.

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\n","2019-11-12T15:06:25.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/50730041/graeme-thompson-cartier-golconda-diamond-ring",686,795,50730041,{"_3754":3788,"_3756":153,"_3757":3789,"_131":3790,"_3760":3791,"_3762":3792,"_3764":103,"_426":3793,"_3766":1594,"_3767":414,"_3768":3794,"_407":562,"_3770":3795,"_3772":3796,"_3774":3797},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/656_005-0db322c8-5b60-4a7d-8662-ae861625b7fb_s600x0.jpg","Offered in our Hong Kong Jewels & Jadeite sale this November, this iconic piece was once thought impossible to produce. ","Behind the Van Cleef & Arpels 'Zip' Necklace ","

Van Cleef & Arpels An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond 'Zip' Necklace.
\nLot 656 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

\n\n

Often hidden on modern-day garments as a functional component, zippers were invented in the late 19th century specifically for use in high-button boots. By the 1930s, they made their way into haute couture as a practical substitute for buttons and hook-and-eye closures.

\n\n

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The Duchess of Windsor (left) is credited with inspiring the innovative design. Photography: World History Archive / Alamy Stock Photo

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Legend has it that the Duchess of Windsor saw this humble fastener on a dress created by one of her favorite couturiers, Elsa Schiaparelli, and in 1938 she told Renée Puissant, then Creative Director of Van Cleef & Arpels, how she thought it could be transformed into an amazing piece of jewelry. The Maison eventually fulfilled that wish and made an accessory far beyond the Duchess’ imagination.

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The idea to translate a zipper into an elegant piece of jewelry proved to be technically challenging. Even with the exceptional prowess of Van Cleef & Arpels, who also famously invented the emblematic mystery-set™, it took their craftsmen more than a decade to perfect the ‘zip’ mechanism. The first-ever zip necklace (collier fermeture éclair in French) debuted in 1951, with an ingenious design that allows it to be zipped open as a necklace and zipped together into a bracelet.

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Very few examples have been made since then, which could be explained by the amount of time required to complete one necklace – anywhere from 400 to 1200 hours with skilled craftsmen. The ‘zip’ is composed of a series of tiny gold or platinum cups held by hooks, which mesh with each other when brought together by a sliding closure. Aside from the technical mastery, the versatility of the zip necklace was also the reason for its iconic status in the high jewelry world.

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\n
Aside from the technical mastery, the versatility of the zip necklace was also the reason for its iconic status.
\n

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Van Cleef & Arpels An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond 'Zip' Necklace / Bracelet

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In recent years, Van Cleef & Arpels revisited the design and created a limited number of zip necklaces, experimenting with various lengths, different closure configurations and daring color combinations of gemstones. Many of the longer versions function only as a necklace.

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This zip necklace on offer, studded with an elegant palette of blue gemstones and diamonds, belongs to the very few examples that appear in international auctions. It is an exemplary jewel, honoring the original idea of convertibility into a bracelet, with an attractive lapis lazuli tassel charm. The 18 karat white gold sets it apart from vintage examples of the same design, heightening the gems’ refined tone of ultramarine. At the heart of this masterpiece remains the originality of the Maison’s creation and highly specialized and exclusive artistry.

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Learn more about our Hong Kong Jewels & Jadeite auction >

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\n","2019-10-31T21:10:34.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/50055193/van-cleef-and-arpels-zip-necklace-bracelet",680,783,50055193,{"_3754":3799,"_3756":153,"_3757":3800,"_131":3801,"_3760":3802,"_3762":3803,"_3764":103,"_426":3804,"_3766":1594,"_3767":414,"_3768":3805,"_407":238,"_3770":3806,"_3772":3807,"_3774":3808},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/611_004-83dff635-fa7f-4023-815e-1cb0fdcaa140_s600x0.jpg","Jewelry historian Vivienne Becker delves into how a single mine in remote Western Australia changed the trajectory of an entire industry. ","Argyle Diamond Mine: Last of the World's Pink Diamond Reserves","

An Exquisite Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring/ Earrings. Lot 611 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

\n\n

In our age of connoisseurship and the quest for extreme rarity, the Argyle pink diamond has come to represent the exceptional and the utterly unique in gemstones. Created billions of years ago by incomprehensibly random natural phenomena, the Argyle pink diamond is a fabulous fluke of nature. Yet, as the Argyle mine in remote Western Australia nears the end of its life in 2020, the pink diamonds that it yields become ever rarer.

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\n
The Argyle Diamond Mine...became the foremost producer of pink diamonds, supplying 90% of the world’s total.
\n

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Terry Chu, Head of Jewels, Asia, explains the legacy of the Argyle Diamond Mine and spotlights her favorite examples from our collection of Argyle pink diamond jewels in November's Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong

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The story of the Argyle pink diamond is a modern-day pioneering adventure. In 1979, a group of geologists exploring the rugged, red rock desert terrain of Northwest Australia spotted a speck of light glinting in an anthill. That glimmer turned out to be a diamond, and the momentous discovery changed the course of jewelry history. After lengthy negotiations and preparations, Rio Tinto opened the Argyle Diamond Mine in 1985, presenting the world with a consistent stream of exquisite pink diamonds of incomparable brilliance, tone and beauty for the first time.

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Previous discoveries of pink diamonds in India, Brazil and Africa had been sporadic and unpredictable. One of the largest diamond mines in history, the Argyle Diamond Mine more or less doubled global diamond production and became the foremost producer of pink diamonds, supplying 90% of the world’s total. Since opening, the mine has yielded some 865 million carats of diamonds, yet only 0.01% of the entire output has been the celebrated Argyle fancy pink diamonds.

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An Elegant Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond, Seed Pearl and Diamond Earrings, Sarah Ho. Lot 606 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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Along with the marvel of the new mine came the realization that these diamonds displayed very particular qualities. The Argyle diamonds were relatively small, but of superlative quality, their fire and their scintillation combined with a breathtaking palette of tender peach, warm bronze, chocolate brown, lilac-tinged pinks, even rarefied violets, reds and blues. Although the color of these diamonds remains something of a mystery, it is known that pink hues are not caused by the rogue presence of other elements, as is the case with other diamond colors, but by a distortion of the atomic structure of the crystals. Argyle pink diamonds have a very particular formation with complex inner graining, so it was quickly realized that they demanded special cutting expertise, especially when preserving or improving the color. Today, just two world-class artisans work in the cutting and polishing ateliers in Perth, ensuring that Argyle pink diamonds are the best they can possibly be.

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A Chic Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Designed by Paige Parker. Lot 607 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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The finest, rarest stones with the most intense colors, only 1% of all polished pink diamonds are offered to a group of 150 invitation-only buyers selected from a wide spectrum of the industry. These ‘Tender’ stones are madly sought-after, particularly the named ‘hero’ stones, the highlights of each collection. According to Arnaud Soirat, CEO of Rio Tinto Copper and Diamonds, this class of stones has appreciated in price by 500% since 2000, outperforming other investments and equity markets. Now, as the mine prepares to close next year, it is estimated that only 150 Tender stones remain within. Alongside the Tender process, Rio Tinto has built an ecosystem of authorized partners, dealers, ateliers and jewelers whose creations feature Argyle pink diamonds, thus ensuring a carefully considered chain of custody for these stunning stones.

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A Conch Pearl, Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring, Karen Suen. Lot 608 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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Perhaps even more significantly, Argyle pink diamonds have fueled today’s hunger for and appreciation of colored diamonds in general. Beforehand, the colored diamond was something of a glass-case gemological specimen, largely divorced from jewelry, and the red diamond was so rare as to be something of a myth. From the 1980s, however, Argyle aroused an intense desire among jewelry lovers, collectors and investors for these rare and beautiful diamonds.

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A Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring. Lot 603 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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The appeal of the Argyle pink diamond lies not only in its color, brilliance and rarity, but also in the fact that an Argyle Pink possesses a sophisticated glamour that only an elite connoisseur can appreciate. As the stones are generally small, they are often set to add accents of visual excitement to white diamond jewelry, as in the ring above in Jewels & Jadeite (lot 603), its central fancy vivid purplish pink stone, framed in white baguette diamonds. Or they create a striking contrast with colored stones, as with Muzo emeralds or a Sri Lankan sapphire.

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The Argyle pink diamond embodies the perfect fusion of the material and the spiritual.
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An Emerald, Pink Diamond and Diamond Necklace. Lot 610 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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It seems certain that the desire for these rarities can only intensify still further with the prospect of mine closure. They are nature’s own "limited edition," with a story that will be told and passed on by those of us who have been privileged to live through and witness the entire life cycle of one of the world’s greatest gemstone discoveries.

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The Argyle Diamond Mine in East Kimberly, Australia

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And perhaps this points to one final, intriguing feature of the fascination with the Argyle pink diamond: beyond monetary worth, beyond its rarity and physical beauty, the Argyle pink diamond somehow connects the infinite and the unknowable. It tells of perfection in a world of chaos, and in this, the Argyle pink diamond represents a new level of luxury. Beyond even the wondrous mingling of light and color, it embodies the perfect fusion of the material and the spiritual.

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A Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Necklace and a Pair of Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings. Lots 618 and 619 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

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Graeme Thompson, Worldwide Head of Jewels, spotlights an elegant necklace and earring suite — lots 618 and 619 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong. Fancy yellow and brilliant cut diamonds are exceptionally rare and highly sought-after by connoisseurs and collectors. Yielding the least amount of weight from the original rough, only a small percentage of yellow diamonds are fashioned as brilliant cut.

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These antique yellow diamonds are dated to circa 1910.

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Lot 584: This 75.95-carat unheated Sri Lankan cabochon sapphire can be worn in three ways: as a brooch, a pendant or a ring.

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True aficionados will recognize that the concept of multi-functionality is nothing new in jewelry design. In the past, when jewelry-making depended on the artistry of highly-skilled men who spent innumerable hours to bring a single piece to life by hand, the labor-intensive final artwork ideally performed a number of functions for their wealthy and noble owners. A magnificent antique necklace often came with a tiara fitting, and component parts of a necklace or tiara could often be worn as brooches.

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In this season’s Jewels & Jadeite sale in Hong Kong, collectors may be surprised to discover the same level of versatility in our offerings: there is more than meets the eye when you look closer at these ingeniously designed modern jewels.

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Lot 656: An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Zip’ Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: HK$3,500,000 – 4,500,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

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Debuted in the early 1950s, the 'Zip' necklace is one of the most iconic and pioneering designs of Van Cleef & Arpels. Despite technical challenges, the Maison turned a high fashion accessory into a high jewelry masterpiece. Incorporating a zipper mechanism, the necklace could be zipped up to form a bracelet. This example here set with lapis lazuli, sapphires and diamonds is no exception. Each ‘zip’ necklace takes anywhere from 400 to 1200 hours for skilled craftsmen to complete, depending on the complexity of the design.

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Lot 611: An Exquisite Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring/ Earrings. Estimate: HK$5,800,000 – 6,800,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

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Set with two well-matched Argyle pink diamonds of superb Fancy Vivid and Fancy Intense color, the ring is designed so that the two pink diamonds and its surrounding clusters of colorless diamonds could be detached and converted to a pair of ear studs for everyday wear. As the Argyle mine in Australia nears its closure in 2020, it is estimated only approximately 150 Tender stones imbued with qualities close to these two on offer are left.

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Lot 546: A Lavender Jadeite, Cultured Pearl, Ruby and Diamond ‘Goldfish’ Bangle/ Brooch. Estimate: HK$120,000 – 160,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

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A symbol of wealth and abundance in Chinese culture, the goldfish is considered a traditional motif in jadeite carvings. This lively rendition is enhanced by the dream-like palette of graduating lilac and pink dotted with pearl ‘bubbles’. It will make a stunning and fun conversational piece whether on one’s wrist or coat lapel.

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Lot 584: A Cabochon Sapphire and Diamond Brooch/ Pendant/ Ring.
\nEstimate: HK$1,500,000- 1,800,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

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This impressive unheated Sri Lankan cabochon sapphire weighs 75.95 carats and can be styled three very different ways. For a sumptuous and extravagant look, the ribbon bow brooch design, suspending diamond ‘droplets’, will surely catch the light from all directions. When worn as a pendant the focus is firmly on the cabochon sapphire, although the diamond drops keep the design elegant and playful. The most pared-down styling of the sapphire is as a ring but the simplicity of the design does not detract from the magnificence of the stone. This ring can be worn as effectively with a gown as with jeans to complete a seriously smart casual look.

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\nBrowse the full Jewels & Jadeite catalogue >

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Sarah Ho

Lot 606: An Elegant Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond, Seed Pearl and Diamond Earrings, Sarah Ho\nEstimate: HK$120,000 – 160,000

Paige Parker

Lot 607: A Chic Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Designed by Paige Parker\nEstimate: HK$280,000 – 320,000

Karen Suen

Lot 608: A Conch Pearl, Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring, Karen Suen\nEstimate: HK$480,000 – 580,000

Read & Watch More

The Duchess of Windsor (left) is credited with inspiring the innovative design. Photography: World History Archive / Alamy Stock Photo

Van Cleef & Arpels An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond 'Zip' Necklace / Bracelet

An Elegant Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond, Seed Pearl and Diamond Earrings, Sarah Ho. Lot 606 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

A Chic Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Designed by Paige Parker. Lot 607 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

A Conch Pearl, Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring, Karen Suen. Lot 608 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

A Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring. Lot 603 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

An Emerald, Pink Diamond and Diamond Necklace. Lot 610 in Jewels & Jadeite, Hong Kong.

The Argyle Diamond Mine in East Kimberly, Australia

Lot 656: An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Zip’ Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: HK$3,500,000 – 4,500,000. \nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 611: An Exquisite Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring/ Earrings. Estimate: HK$5,800,000 – 6,800,000.\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 546: A Lavender Jadeite, Cultured Pearl, Ruby and Diamond ‘Goldfish’ Bangle/ Brooch. Estimate: HK$120,000 – 160,000.\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 584: A Cabochon Sapphire and Diamond Brooch/ Pendant/ Ring.\nEstimate: HK$1,500,000- 1,800,000.\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 606: An Elegant Pair of Fancy Pink Diamond, Seed Pearl and Diamond Earrings, Sarah Ho
\nEstimate: HK$120,000 – 160,000

Lot 607: A Chic Fancy Intense Pink Diamond, Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring, Designed by Paige Parker
\nEstimate: HK$280,000 – 320,000

Lot 608: A Conch Pearl, Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring, Karen Suen
\nEstimate: HK$480,000 – 580,000

Lot 656: An Elegant and Iconic Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Zip’ Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: HK$3,500,000 – 4,500,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 611: An Exquisite Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring/ Earrings. Estimate: HK$5,800,000 – 6,800,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 546: A Lavender Jadeite, Cultured Pearl, Ruby and Diamond ‘Goldfish’ Bangle/ Brooch. Estimate: HK$120,000 – 160,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.

Lot 584: A Cabochon Sapphire and Diamond Brooch/ Pendant/ Ring.
\nEstimate: HK$1,500,000- 1,800,000.
\nJewels & Jadeite at Phillips Hong Kong, 25 November.