- By Doug Escribano
Patek Philippe’s long and rich history has been highlighted by some of the most iconic and cherished timepieces ever produced. In 1996, they introduced an all-new annual calendar model, which was both technically innovative and revolutionary, creating a new category of complicated wristwatches that is now offered by many Swiss brands today. Patek Philippe’s reference 5035 was the world’s first annual calendar wristwatch, and as the brand’s press releases stated at the time, it was designed as a “useful” complication that was practical and affordable. Unlike the cost-prohibitive nature of tourbillon, minute repeating, or perpetual calendar wristwatches, the annual calendar provided its clientele a more affordable entrée into the world of complications.
Simple calendar timepieces need adjustments at least five times per year for months that are not 31 days long, while perpetual calendar watches need no adjustments – automatically accounting for long and short months, and even leap years – so long as they are kept wound. The annual calendar sits in between the two, and needs a manual correction only once per year between February 28th or 29th and March 1st. The first annual calendar watch was the brain child of Laurent Junod, technical director at Patek Philippe, who for a graduate engineering project while at University of Lausanne, designed and implemented an ingenious new mechanical way for the calendar to function. The perpetual calendar is a complex series of jumper springs, cams, racks, and levers, while Junod’s system was based on a rotary stack of gear wheels. Patek Philippe’s new caliber 315 S QA automatic movement oscillated at a traditional 21,600 beats per hour, with a clean dial layout with date at the 6 o’clock and two subsidiary dials at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions for month and day, respectively. Patek Philippe chose not to offer a moon phase on the reference 5035, but instead a 24-hour dial. While the brand successfully obtained a 25-year patent on the movement, other brands saw client interest in this new complication, and found alternative ways to manufacture their own annual calendar mechanisms.
Today, there are dozens of annual calendar models available from a multitude of makers, and Phillips in Association with Bacs and Russo is pleased to offer a fine selection of eight annual calendar wristwatches spanning the first twenty years of the 21st century included RACING PULSE, the annual New York watch auction taking place on December 12th, 2020. A selection of highlights include:
Lot 7 - F. P.Journe Octa Calendrier Ruthenium
Made in platinum, and numbered 46 of 99 examples, this watch features a ruthenium coated dial and movement. It was the first Journe model to feature an annual calendar and oversized date, and the last Calendrier model to be offered with a brass movement. In excellent condition, and complete with certificate and presentation box it is a lovely example of the ingenuity of Journe’s design and technical prowess.
Lot 21 - Patek Philippe Reference 5960P
Another Patek Philippe milestone wristwatch, the reference 5960P introduced in 2006 was the first annual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever produced. Sporting the Patek Philippe’s first in-house automatic chronograph movement, the present example is fresh to the market and complete with certificate and box.
Lot 40 - Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar
Laurent Ferrier follows in the tradition of the montre école, or school watch. When first introduced in 2018, the model was award Best Men’s Watch by the GPHG. The watch has a classic traditional feel, and with a 40mm diameter case, is easily wearable in any setting.
Lot 57 - Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5276 in stainless steel
Patek Philippe’s Nautilus is one of the world’s most iconic and cherished timepieces since it was first released in 1976. Over the last 44 years the brand has created an extensive line with the model, and in 2010 offered their first Nautilus with annual calendar in the reference 5276. Consigned by the original owner, the watch is in superb condition and comes complete with its original certificate, boxes, and accessories.