From Left: Lot 218, A Bulgari Tri-Colored Gold Bracelet;
Lot 214, A Bulgari Diamond, Amethyst, Rubellite and Gold 'Diva's Dream' Necklace.
Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.
The house of Bulgari is one of the world’s most distinguished jewelers, recognized for their superb craftsmanship, style and distinct aesthetic. Founded by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari in 1884, this family business flourished over the decades by creating elegant jewels that drew inspiration from Greek and Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and works by the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. Today, as in yesteryear, traditional themes still pulse through modern designs, paying homage to Rome and displaying a sensitivity to the modern woman.
Lot 214: A Bulgari Diamond, Amethyst, Rubellite and Gold 'Diva's Dream' Necklace.
Estimate: $20,000 - 30,000.
Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.
Bulgari’s jewels are successful in merging the past and present, combining architectural elements with a modern sensibility. The feminine and colorful ‘fan’ motifs in the ‘Divia’s Dream’ necklace, lot 214, draw inspiration from Rome’s mosaic Caracalla Baths, constructed in 217 AD. Through this design, Bulgari has subliminally captured a part of ancient Rome and the important role these baths provided in a social and religious place – to cleanse the soul and body. The theme and the imagery that it inspires are very much a part of the Bulgari marque.
Lot 215: A Bulgari Tanzanite, Diamond, Emerald, Turquoise and Gold Necklace.
Estimate: $35,000 - 55,000.
Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.
The tanzanite, diamond, turquoise and emerald necklace, lot 215, illustrates modern Bulgari at its best with its infusion of color, movement and design. This jewel is playful and sensual, artfully utilizing conical turquoise and pave diamond links, embellished with circular and emerald rondelle accents, telling a story of life and luxury. The gorgeous tumbled tanzanite, organic in form, juxtaposed against more geometric pieces, draws attention with this contrast of shape and size, leading to a tassel of conical links with gem-set terminals. This necklace aptly represents the modern women of Rome: feminine, playful, sensuous, colorful and strong.
Lot 213: A Bulgari Gold 'Parentesi' Necklace and Pair of Earrings. Estimate: $8,000 - 12,000.
Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.
The Parentesi collection, see lot 213, was Bulgari’s first line of modular jewelry and debuted in 1982. This design was first offered without adornment, making it easy to wear. At the time, no one imagined how popular this geometric pattern, inspired by the interlocking travertine stones that lined the pavement of ancient Rome, would become. Met with great success, the Parentesi jewels were later enhanced with patterns of diamonds and colorful stones. Today, while the proportions and angles have been updated, this collection remains at the cornerstone of the house's high jewelry.
Lot 219: A Bulgari Green Beryl, Ruby and Diamond 'Ring' Bracelet. Estimate: $15,000 - 25,000.
Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.
The ‘Ring’ bracelet, lot 219, was produced in a limited edition of only three, making it exceedingly rare. As is expected of Bulgari, color plays a strong role in this whimsical design. What is unusual about this design is not only the color combination or the suggestion of a ring, but that it is sculptural, commanding and powerful, defying the classical idea of what a bracelet should be.
For more than 100 years, Bulgari has been described as a symbol of excellence. They have stayed true to their original aesthetic by honoring the past in all of their works, as illustrated in the luxurious, colorful and majestic Bulgari jewels in this sale.