Lot 399: Van Cleef & Arpels, Coral, chrysoprase and diamond necklace/bracelet combination, 'Zip', 2012. Estimates: CHF260,000–480,000 / US$320,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
A flutter of butterflies, pirouetting ballerinas, and clover-like ‘Alhambra’ motifs. Icons so permanently etched into the visual lexicon of jewellery and style that we see them everywhere from our local supermarket to the red carpet, Major League Baseball dugouts and beyond. And we always know exactly what we’re seeing, as the charm of these designs can only be described with four words, two names: Van Cleef & Arpels.
But even when stepping outside these most identifiable design hallmarks, there remains a charming effervescence that bubbles up even in their most avant-garde creations. Take the ‘Zip’ necklace, first created in 1950, which remains one of the house’s most groundbreaking designs. It demonstrates a core tenet of the maison’s personality — that as seriously as Van Cleef & Arpels takes their craft, they’ve never shied away from having a bit of fun.
Lot 399: Van Cleef & Arpels, Coral, chrysoprase and diamond necklace/bracelet combination, 'Zip', 2012. Estimates: CHF260,000–480,000 / US$320,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
Inspired by the growing presence of zippers in haute couture during the late 1930s, the idea was first developed under the direction of Renée Puissant, daughter of Estelle Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef. Adding to the design’s allure, it is widely believed to have first been suggested by Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, a style icon and important patron of fine jewellery.
Seamlessly merging high jewellery with mechanical ingenuity, it transforms an everyday object into a work of exceptional artistry. Both visually striking and technically complex, the piece quickly established itself as an enduring icon of the maison.
Lot 399: Van Cleef & Arpels, Coral, chrysoprase and diamond necklace/bracelet combination, 'Zip', 2012. Estimates: CHF260,000–480,000 / US$320,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
This ‘Zip’ necklace is sure to be a highlight of any collection, decorated with carved chrysoprase, diamonds and coral. It can be worn as a bracelet with the included fitting, and is also accompanied by two fitted cases, a pouch stamped with the Van Cleef & Arpels logo, a Van Cleef & Arpels certificate of authenticity, and the original invoice. A collector’s dream.
Garden of earthly delight
Lot 398: Van Cleef & Arpels, Sapphire, coloured sapphire, garnet and diamond necklace, 'Les Jardins', circa 2010. Estimates: CHF95,000–190,000 / US$120,000–240,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
If the house’s ‘Alhambra’ is a single lucky leaf, ‘Les Jardins’ is the grounds of the entire sprawling estate. First launched in 2006 to celebrate Van Cleef & Arpels’ centenary, the ‘Les Jardins’ collection showcases the maison’s penchant for whimsy and beauty in equal measure. And this 2010 example is particularly enchanting. The line of sapphires delicately transitions into purple, serving as a home for the citrus-hued garnets, which are accented with diamond leaves that catch the light like the golden-hour sun.
Lot 398: Van Cleef & Arpels, Sapphire, coloured sapphire, garnet and diamond necklace, 'Les Jardins', circa 2010. Estimates: CHF95,000–190,000 / US$120,000–240,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
Magical mystery masterpiece
391: Van Cleef & Arpels, Pair of ruby and diamond earrings. Estimates: CHF70,000–95,000 / $80,000–120,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
A house as creative as Van Cleef & Arpels understands that sometimes, poetry is the art of deletion. So it was in the early 1930s that they set out to develop a method for setting gemstones into hidden grooves, resulting in completely flush settings without visible prongs. The mystery setting was born, and with it, a platform for design ingenuity that the house still explores today.
Take this pair of ruby and diamond earrings, which strike the eye like a delectable pair of berries hanging from the ears. These drop-shaped pendants are mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies, topped with diamond hulls and suspended from floral-designed surmounts, each accented with larger circular-cut rubies. They pair perfectly with the matching domed ring, also mystery-set with calibré-cut rubies in a honeycomb pattern. Tart as a berry, sweet as honey, it’s truly the wearer who brings this course to life.
Model wearing lots 391 and 392.
Lot 392: Van Cleef & Arpels, Ruby and diamond ring. Estimates: CHF12,000–20,000 / $15,000–25,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI.
More iconic designs to explore
The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI offers even more iconic designs from some of the most lauded jewellery houses. From Cartier’s ‘Panthère’ to Boucheron’s parure, Sterlé’s charming avian brooch and more, there’s something for all tastes and interests.
Discover more from The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI >