The Rolex Day-Date Across Eras

The Rolex Day-Date Across Eras

A closer look at six standout references that illustrate the changing face – and enduring appeal – of the Rolex Day-Date.

A closer look at six standout references that illustrate the changing face – and enduring appeal – of the Rolex Day-Date.

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction, running from 12:00 PM ET, Thursday, 2 October, to 12:00 PM ET, Friday, 10 October. The sale features more than 70 high-end luxury wristwatches, covering a range of brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe, as well as six attractive Rolex Day-Dates, highlighted below.


– By Logan Baker

Few watches signal success like a Rolex Day-Date on your wrist.

The Day-Date is the crown jewel of the Rolex catalog. Rolex doesn’t offer it in stainless steel, and it likely never will. That alone tells you where the Day-Date stands in the world of Rolex.

Introduced in 1956, the Day-Date was the world’s first watch to spell out the full day of the week on the dial, in your language of choice. It was Rolex’s answer to building a complicated watch that people could actually use every day, skipping moonphases and triple calendars in favor of a practical, reliable calendar layout that looked great in precious metal.

The Day-Date quickly climbed to the top. Presidents, world leaders, and cultural icons wore it, earning the nickname “The President” along the way. From the classic 36mm references with pie-pan dials to today’s modern 40mm iterations with improved movements and extended power reserves, the Day-Date has remained the most aspirational Rolex.

It’s easy to forget the Day-Date is where Rolex allows itself to experiment with color, texture, and design, whether in rare dials or new materials. It’s also a watch that’s remained versatile: the consistent 36mm or 40mm size fits just as well on a woman’s wrist as it does on a man’s, and the range of precious metals speaks to collectors and cultures around the world.

In the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction, we have six compelling examples of the Day-Date from across its production history. 

Lot 62: A Circa 1968 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1803 36mm in 18k Pink Gold with Black Dial

Estimate: USD $8,000 - 16,000

Lot 62: A Circa 1968 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1803 36mm in 18k Pink Gold with Black Dial that's included in the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction. Estimate: USD $8,000 - 16,000

Sleek and understated, this Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 pairs an 18K pink gold case with a glossy black dial and crisp white printing. The fluted bezel sharpens the profile, while the original riveted Oyster bracelet adds period-correct appeal.

Dating to 1968 and preserved in excellent overall condition, the watch presents a striking and seldom-seen configuration of the classic Day-Date.

Lot 41: A Circa 2022 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 228345RBR in 18k Everose Gold with Olive Green Dial

Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000

Lot 41: A Circa 2022 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 228345RBR in 18k Everose Gold with Olive Green Dial that's included in the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction. Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000

Over the past six decades, the Rolex Day-Date has undergone steady evolution in both design and mechanics. In 2015, the launch of the Day-Date 40 introduced a 40 mm case, refining the proportions of the earlier 41 mm Day-Date II.

That same year, Rolex unveiled the reference 228345RBR to mark the model’s 60th anniversary. Crafted in Everose, the brand’s proprietary rose-gold alloy designed to resist fading, the watch is distinguished by its olive-green dial and diamond-set bezel – a combination that quickly became a modern signature. The example offered here remains in virtually new condition and is accompanied by its complete set of accessories.

Lot 65: A Circa 1991 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18238 in 18k Yellow Gold with Pavé Dial and Sapphire Indexes

Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000

Lot 65: A Circa 1991 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18238 in 18k Yellow Gold with Pavé Dial and Sapphire Indexes that's included in the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction. Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000

Launched in 1988, the Rolex Day-Date ref. 18238 introduced the caliber 3155, an automatic movement with Rolex’s first double quickset mechanism – allowing the day and date to be set independently. It was a practical advance that marked a new era of convenience for the collection.

Executed entirely in 18K yellow gold, the watch carries the classic 36 mm case with fluted bezel and the unmistakable President bracelet with its semi-circular links and concealed clasp. This particular example stands out with its unusual pavé diamond dial accented by sapphire hour markers in gold surrounds, a combination that balances opulence with refinement.

Lot 64: A Circa 1987 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18138 in 18k Yellow Gold with Blue Fumé Dial and Diamonds

Estimate: USD $15,000 - 30,000

Lot 64: A Circa 1987 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18138 in 18k Yellow Gold with Blue Fumé Dial and Diamonds that's included in the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction. Estimate: USD $15,000 - 30,000

Produced for only a brief period between 1985 and 1988, the Rolex Day-Date ref. 18138 is best known for its jeweled configurations. The present example is distinguished by the bold “Rolex” engraving at the bezel’s edge at six o’clock, a detail unique to the reference. Its striking blue fumé dial graduates from a light center to a darker periphery, punctuated by diamond-set hour markers. Adding to the sense of luxury, both the bezel and lugs are set with diamonds. Rarely encountered, this 18138 represents an exceptional opportunity to acquire one of the most opulent expressions of the Day-Date.

Lot 66: A Circa 2005 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 118238 in 18k Yellow Gold with Mother-of-Pearl Dial and Diamond and Ruby-Set Chapter Ring

Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000

Lot 66: A Circa 2005 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 118238 in 18k Yellow Gold with Mother-of-Pearl Dial and Diamond and Ruby-Set Chapter Ring that's included in the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction. Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000

In 2000, Rolex introduced the 118xxx series of Day-Date watches, expanding the line with a wide variety of dials and configurations in gold and platinum. The series underscored the model’s reputation as one of the most versatile in the Rolex catalogue.

The reference 118238 offered here is among the most desirable executions. Its 36 mm yellow-gold case and fluted bezel convey timeless refinement, while the mother-of-pearl dial is accented by a chapter ring set with alternating diamonds and rubies – a detail that heightens its sense of luxury. Preserved in excellent condition and accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee, this example represents a particularly collectible edition of the Day-Date.

Lot 67: A Circa 2015 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 118205 in 18k Pink Gold with Carousel, Mother-of-Pearl Dial

Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000

Lot 67: A Circa 2015 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 118205 in 18k Pink Gold with Carousel, Mother-of-Pearl Dial that's included in the Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction. Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000

Introduced in the early 2000s, the Rolex Day-Date ref. 118205 brought technical updates such as the double-quickset calendar and a refined bracelet design.

The present example, produced in the mid-to-late 2010s, is distinguished by its rare “Carousel” dial – a pink mother-of-pearl dial engraved with a delicate floral wave motif, its hours marked by diamond-set sectors that inspired the nickname. The luminous dial is perfectly matched to Rolex’s proprietary Everose gold alloy, while the smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet lend a sportier edge that offsets the dial’s refinement. Sold in 2015 by Grima in Melbourne, Australia, and accompanied by its original guarantee card, this Day-Date stands out as a rare and distinctive expression of one of Rolex’s most enduring designs.

You can view the complete Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction catalogue here.