– By Logan Baker
Universal Genève has just unveiled three special-edition Polerouter SAS watches, the first "new" watches from the company in decades.
These timepieces commemorate the 70th anniversary of the first Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight over the North Pole in 1954, an achievement that forever altered the landscape of global air travel.
This announcement sets the stage for the brand’s much-anticipated full revival in 2026, spearheaded by its new leadership (Breitling and The Partners Group acquired the Universal Genève name and assets in late 2023).
In 1954, SAS approached Universal Genève to create a wristwatch tailored to the challenges of transpolar aviation. The mission was to equip pilots with a timepiece capable of withstanding extreme temperatures, magnetic fields, and shocks while remaining functional and stylish. The result, designed by 23-year-old Gérald Genta—who would later become a legend in the watchmaking world—was nothing short of groundbreaking.
Originally named the Polarouter, the watch featured a patented two-part dial construction, protecting the movement from environmental stresses while delivering a modern aesthetic.
The Polarouter was renamed the Polerouter in 1956 and became a commercial success.
Universal Genève CEO Georges Kern and Managing Director Gregory Bruttin have reimagined the Polerouter SAS for a new era to honour the watch's origins. The three unique pieces debuted in Copenhagen on November 15, 2024, precisely 70 years after the famed SAS flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles.
Each watch features a newly designed case paired with Universal Genève’s historic Microtor movement, the Caliber 1-69.
This ultra-thin automatic movement, introduced in the late 1950s, was a game-changer, with its rotor ingeniously integrated between the movement’s plate and bridges.
1. The White Gold Tribute (Up for Auction)
The first of the three pieces is crafted in white gold and boasts twisted lugs and a guilloché rehaut achieved with diamond-tipped precision. The satin-finish dial contrasts beautifully with the brilliance of the rehaut, while the dial features historic and modern SAS logos rendered in the airline’s signature vibrant blue.
A handcrafted white-gold bracelet by Laurent Jolliet, Switzerland’s last remaining chaîniste (chain-maker), completes the look.
This piece will go under the hammer at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo in May 2025, with proceeds benefiting CFP Arts in Geneva—a nonprofit dedicated to preserving traditional watchmaking techniques.
2. The Red Gold Archive Piece
The second tribute watch features an 18k red gold case with a black dial. Its inner bezel and hands shine in red gold. This piece will reside in Universal Genève’s archives.
3. The Stainless Steel Archive Piece
Rounding out the collection is a stainless steel version, echoing the robustness and utilitarian spirit of the original Polerouter SAS. The dial has a brushed finish with red-gold accents.
The launch of these tribute watches is part of Universal Genève’s broader revival strategy, which began in 2023 after its acquisition by Partners Group and CVC Capital Partners. Under the leadership of Kern and Bruttin, the brand aims to recapture its title as Le Couturier de la Montre (The Couturier of Watches).
The tribute pieces commemorate an extraordinary moment in aviation history. On November 15, 1954, SAS launched the first commercial transpolar flights between Copenhagen and Los Angeles, cutting 2,600 kilometers off the traditional route. Two Douglas DC-6B aircraft—Helge Viking and Leif Viking—embarked on simultaneous flights, carrying dignitaries and journalists.
The Polerouter was a companion on these journeys, embodying the same spirit of exploration and progress that defined SAS’s pioneering efforts.
The relaunch of Universal Genève and the debut of the Polerouter SAS tribute watches are milestones worth celebrating, and the Phillips auction in May 2025 will offer collectors a rare opportunity to own a piece of Universal Genève's revival.
Images by author unless stated.