Model is wearing Cartier, Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Bracelet with A Pair of Emerald and Diamond Ear Pendants and Fancy Yellow Diamond and Diamond Ring
Venerable jewelry houses, whose origins intertwine with the dawn of modern luxury, have masterfully charted a journey of elegance that transcends the vicissitudes of time and fashion. More than just witnesses to history, they've shaped it, adapting with grace to shifts in art and society. Each masterpiece from these maisons is a chapter in a legacy of sophistication, continuing to captivate collectors and jewelry lovers worldwide.
As the curtains rise on this season’s Hong Kong Jewels Auction at Phillips, we traverse the illustrious paths of three grand maisons, each spanning over 100 years. Their legendary craftsmanship manifests in pieces that are as much a celebration of history as they are of innovation.
CARTIER
The paragon of timeless elegance.
Cartier, Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, Lot 592.
Estimate: HK$380,000 – 600,000/ US$50,000 – 80,000.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 28 March.
Crafted at the zenith of the Art Deco era, circa 1925, this Cartier Ruby and Diamond Bracelet stands as a paragon of the era's celebrated design ethos. Its composition — a striking contrast of white and red, underscored by the precision of geometric shapes — heralds the Art Deco movement's affinity for bold lines and vivid colors. Esteemed globally, Art Deco jewels from renowned houses like Cartier are highly sought after by collectors, and this bracelet, with its perfect harmony of diamonds and unheated Burmese rubies, is no exception.
This piece, designed to be worn in layers, mirrors the 1920s fashion of pairing such opulent accessories with the era’s iconic sleeveless dresses, which were crafted from fluid fabrics and often adorned with glass beads. The inclusion of six rare Burmese rubies further elevates its allure, imbuing it with both a sense of depth and a connection to natural beauty.
Beyond its immediate aesthetic appeal, this Cartier bracelet embodies the luxurious, avant-garde spirit that defined its time.
Cartier, Ruby, Onyx and Diamond Necklace, “Le Baiser Du Dragon”, Lot 583.
Estimate: HK$220,000 – 380,000/ US$30,000 – 50,000.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 28 March.
With “Le Baiser Du Dragon,” Cartier ventures into the mystical, marrying the allure of the Orient with the precision of Art Deco design. This endeavor is not Cartier's first foray into Eastern-inspired creations; the house's fascination with the East had previously culminated in some of its most iconic designs, such as the colorful and vibrant Tutti Frutti pieces.
This piece, translating to “The Dragon's Kiss,” is inspired by the powerful imagery of the dragon. It fuses cultural symbolism with aesthetic innovation, employing a palette of red, black, and white to create a striking visual harmony.
The “Le Baiser du Dragon” collection showcases a sophisticated color palette dominated by red, a hue deeply ingrained in the Chinese cultural fabric as a bearer of good fortune and joy. This choice of color, along with the strategic use of gemstones like diamonds, rubies, and onyx, crafts a narrative of Art Deco glamor that is both timeless and geographically transcendent.
This collection, with its intricate melding of Eastern symbolism and Art Deco elegance, is particularly poignant as we are currently in the Year of the Dragon.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
A storied powerhouse that weaves through the tapestry of fine jewelry.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Turquoise and Diamond Necklace, circa 1985, Lot 555.
Estimate: HK$900,000 – 1,200,000/ US$110,000 – 150,000.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 28 March.
With a certificate of authenticity confirming its creation in 1985, this piece stands as a testament to the maison's enduring legacy and expertise. Turquoise, a gemstone revered as a symbol of true love in the Victorian era and a favored gemstone of Queen Victoria, has been a cornerstone in the maison's design philosophy. Its vibrant hue, paired with the luster of diamonds, harks back to a time when opulence and grace were intertwined in the art of jewelry making.
Van Cleef & Arpels, in particular, has showcased turquoise’s vibrant beauty across its iconic collections — from the delicate ballerinas and La Boutique brooches of the 1950s to the narrative-rich Noah’s Ark series, the timeless Alhambra quatrefoils, and the contemporary Ludo series. This necklace stands as a magnificent iteration of Van Cleef & Arpels’ turquoise legacy, echoing the opulence of the Marjorie Merriweather diadem, where turquoise replaced emeralds to adorn Empress Marie Louise, Napoleon’s second wife.
Van Cleef & Arpels, Gold and Diamond Parure, “Alhambra,” Lot 504.
Estimate: HK$40,000 – 90,000/ US$5,200 – 12,000.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 28 March.
In 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels gifted the world with the Alhambra collection, a symbol of fortune that has since become an emblem of the maison's design ethos. This gold and diamond parure is a refined interpretation of the iconic four-leaf clover motif, realized in 18-karat yellow gold and accentuated with diamonds. The Alhambra collection's enduring appeal lies in its versatility and the maison's innovative use of diverse materials, including tigers eye, to continually reinterpret this beloved motif.
The Alhambra series, recognized globally for its distinctive elegance and charm, stands as a pillar of Van Cleef & Arpels' creative legacy. With each year, the maison explores new materials, enriching the collection and offering collectors and enthusiasts pieces that are both rare and coveted. This parure, with its understated luxury and timeless design, is a tribute to the maison's commitment to excellence and its pursuit of creating jewelry that transcends the boundaries of time and fashion.
BULGARI
A hallmark of rich heritage and artistic prowess.
Bulgari, Yellow Gold Demi-Parure, “Monete,” Lot 540
Estimate: HK$280,000 – 380,000/ US$36,000 – 50,000.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 28 March.
Bulgari's “Monete” collection stands as a brilliant testament to the storied heritage and innovative spirit of the illustrious Italian house, rooted deeply in Greek and Roman traditions. Since its founding, Bulgari has been celebrated for its distinctive style and bold, creative ventures.
Among its most storied collections is the “Monete”, unveiled in 1966, a bold initiative by the brand's third generation that married the timeless allure of ancient coins with the modern elegance of fine jewelry.
The “Monete” collection draws its inspiration from a practice as old as 700 B.C., in which coins were not only currency but also emblems of power and beauty, often worn as jewelry by those of high status. By integrating these ancient coins into their designs, Bulgari's “Monete” jewels serve as a bridge between past and present, celebrating centuries of human history. Each piece in the collection is distinguished by its authenticity; the coins are preserved “as is,” with all their historical imperfections and patina, making every one a unique testament to the past.
Bulgari employs a dedicated team of specialists to scour international numismatics markets, seeking out coins that not only meet the maison's high standards for historical significance and aesthetic appeal but also resonate with the narrative Bulgari wishes to weave through its creations. This meticulous curation process underscores the brand's commitment to authenticity and excellence, ensuring that each “Monete” piece is not just jewelry but a storied artifact that carries the weight of history.
Owning a Bulgari “Monete” is more than an investment in exquisite craftsmanship; it is an embrace of history, a piece of the ancient world preserved within the lustrous contours of modern design.
Bulgari, Mother of Pearl and Gold Bracelet, “Serpenti Viper,” Lot 533.
Estimate: HK$55,000 – 75,000/ US$7,000 – 9,000.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 28 March.
In the pantheon of Bulgari's legendary creations, the "Serpenti" collection shines as a beacon of innovation and heritage. Launched in 1948, it has recently marked its 75th anniversary, celebrating a rich history in luxury jewelry. Known for its captivating, flexible designs, "Serpenti" owes its charm to the Tubogas technique, enabling the piece to wrap elegantly around the wearer, blending comfort with elegance seamlessly.
Bulgari's mid-20th century venture into serpent motifs showcased a dedication to realism, using a vibrant mix of gemstones and enamel to vividly bring these serpents to life. Each piece is a testament to Bulgari's design and material mastery.
Today, "Serpenti" stands as one of Bulgari's most iconic lines, symbolizing renewal and wisdom. The collection's recent pieces adopt geometric and abstract serpent interpretations, highlighting Bulgari's commitment to innovation.
Bulgari's unwavering pursuit of excellence has enshrined "Serpenti" as an enduring emblem of sophistication and innovation.
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction
28 March
2pm HKT
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