Lots 24, 26, and 27 shown on the model. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
To celebrate Phillips’ enduring values of innovation, talent, and curiosity, our Jewels specialists are augmenting the thrilling selection of timeless masterpieces in the Geneva Jewels: One sale on 6 November — our inaugural live jewelry auction in this storied city — with five hand-picked contemporary designers.
The lineup includes Maison Alix Dumas, Silvia Furmanovich, Margaret, Viltier, and Dries Criel — all renowned for their bold ideas, pioneering designs, and striking jewels. Each of these maisons has entrusted Phillips with two pieces highlighting their unique creative philosophies and identities.
The contemporary group comprises a spinel and sapphire ‘Feuilles Birmanes’ ring, signed Maison Alix Dumas, exemplifying the designer’s technical skill and artistic sensibility, and a pair of wood marquetry, pink tourmaline, and diamond ‘Butterfly’ earrings by Silvia Furmanovich, embodying her fascination with the natural world and celebrating the earth’s abundant beauty.
Also included in the sale are a pair of aquamarine and diamond earrings by Margaret, exuding romance with their timeless, poetic design, a gold and diamond cuff signed Viltier, fusing traditional sophistication with modern dynamism, as well as a gold, enamel, and diamond ‘Flux’ ring designed by Dries Criel, unveiling the sensuality of abstract form.
The selection of contemporary jewels illuminates Phillips’ continued dedication to 20th and 21st century craftsmanship, embracing forward-thinking artists, advocating the pursuit of creative development, and encouraging inspired audacity.
MAISON ALIX DUMAS
Maison Alix Dumas, Gold ring, ‘Eternité d’Or.' Estimate: CHF 3,000 – 5,000 USD 3,500 – 6,000. No reserve. Lot 23 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
Infusing her designs with artistry, Alix Dumas, founder of her eponymous maison, produces pieces that are dedicated to the exploration of color and form. Akin to a sculptor, she works with her hands and directly with the material, using stones to enhance the natural beauty of metals. The process plays an important role in the creation of her final products, where the designs symbolize a dialogue between creativity and technique, and the results embody emblems of artistic expression.
Maison Alix Dumas has won several awards since its founding, including the Best Debuting Award at the Haute Couture Jewelry show in 2023, the Francéclat CSR Prize that same year, the Creativity and Design Award at Milano Jewelry Week and the Artistar – Sculpture to Wear Gallery Award in 2022. In 2021, her ‘Eternity’ ring was awarded the Alchemist Prize for Creative Audacity at the Timeless Jewels Show in Paris, and her ‘Eternity Night’ earrings received the Hand and Creation prize from the Paris District of the Rotary Club International.
SILVIA FURMANOVICH
Silvia Furmanovich, Pair of gold, tourmaline, and wood earrings, ‘Butterfly.' Estimate: CHF 5,000 – 8,000 USD 6,000 – 9,000. No reserve. Lot 25 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
Based in Brazil, Silvia Furmanovich marries her fascination with nature to her respect for craftsmanship, producing remarkable jewels that celebrate the earth’s beauty and diversity. With generations of goldsmiths in her family, Silvia Furmanovich was exposed to the art of working with precious metals from a young age. Inspired by the métier, she eventually began developing her own line of creations, making sure to keep the handicraft tradition alive.
Collaborating with artisans from the Amazon, she incorporates an array of new materials in her pieces, including wood marquetry, shells, and bamboo, enriching her jewels with a kaleidoscope of color, texture, and volume, and sharing the natural wonders of the rainforest with her global community. A visionary and an innovator, Silvia Furmanovich’s bold designs pay tribute to native, historical, and foreign cultures, and stand as symbols of nature’s wearable art.
Silvia Furmanovich won three prizes for innovation at the Couture Design Award in 2015, 2016, and 2019. In 2018, her India Collection was the recipient of the Town & Country Jewellery Award, and in 2019, she was nominated for the Jewelry Design Award at the Jewelers of America’s GEM Awards.
MARGARET
Margaret, Pearl, diamond and gold bangle, 'Five Stars.' Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000 USD 28,000 – 38,000. Lot 28 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
Born from the collaboration between Oriana Melamed Sabrier and Candice Ophir, Margaret jewels return to the romantic essence at the heart of their design. Bringing a modern twist to an antique aesthetic, the pieces connect the past with the present, the vintage with the modern, paying tribute to the stories that inspired their conception, and celebrating timeless artistry. With creations that aim to infuse craftsmanship with storytelling, Margaret produces heirlooms to be worn as emblems of romance, cherished from one generation to the next.
VILTIER
Viltier, Gold and diamond manchette, 'Edge.' Estimate: CHF 22,000 – 33,000 USD 25,000 – 35,000. Lot 30 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
Launched at the height of the pandemic, Viltier was founded in Paris from the friendship of Thomas Montier Leboucher and Iris de la Villardière. Seeking to bring statement pieces into the everyday world, Viltier’s creations are dynamic, colorful, and refined, bridging modernity with French savoir-faire. Inspired from and designed for present and future generations of wearers, the jewels are produced responsibly, with materials sourced ethically to insure traceability and quality. With a desire to transcend traditional norms surrounding beauty, Viltier’s designs are testaments of curiosity, innovation, and vitality.
In June 2023, Viltier’s individuality gained worldwide recognition after its gold and diamond manchette ‘Edge’ won the Best in Gold prize at the Couture Design Award in Las Vegas.
DRIES CRIEL
Dries Criel, Gold, enamel and diamond ring, 'Flux.' Estimate: CHF 4,000 – 6,000 USD 4,500 – 7,000. Lot 32 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.
Exploring the space between geometric and organic forms, Dries Criel’s expressive designs weave the bold with the sensual, the masculine with the feminine. He works with an array of traceable materials, from gold to gemstones and enamel, seeking inspiration from a multitude of sources, including classical and contemporary dance, as well as Ancient Egypt. Dries Criel collaborates with several talented craftsmen in Belgium and Italy to bring his work to life, producing timeless pieces that echo his values for freedom, individuality, beauty, and empowerment.
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