Lot 597, Bulgari, A Turquoise, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, 1960s
Estimate: HK$320,000–400,000 / US$40,000–52,000
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 5 October
Each piece of vintage jewellery holds within it whispers of stories, tales of eras gone by, and the elegance of times that have shaped our contemporary appreciation of art. This season, Phillips crafts a passage through time, presenting an exquisite ensemble of vintage brooches in The Hong Kong Jewels Auction. Spanning diverse epochs and styles, these masterpieces echo the intricate artistry and perennial allure of iconic jewellery maisons. From the rope-twist elegance of Van Cleef & Arpels to the vibrant “Bulgari style” and the art deco allure of Lacloche Frères, this collection is a whispered invitation to own a fragment of history.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Lot 503, Van Cleef & Arpels, A Gold, Sapphire, Emerald and Diamond Brooch, 1966
Estimate: HK$40,000–65,000 / US$5,200–8,500
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 5 October
Van Cleef & Arpels, inspired by nature’s boundless tableau, meticulously crafts an avian symphony in jewels, translating the ethereal dance of flora and fauna into tangible masterpieces. Symbolising freedom and the boundless spirit of the skies, the bird motif finds itself featured prominently in the maison's creations since the 1940s.
This 1966 brooch, marked distinctly by its year of creation, weaves the intricacies of the ‘60s era rope-twist designs. Delicate rope-twist details are seen in the tail of the bird, displaying a swirling pattern that gracefully continues to form the body and eye of this avian marvel. Its body and eye shimmer in shades of sapphires and emeralds, evoking a sense of poised and restrained elegance.
Bulgari
Lot 597, Bulgari, A Turquoise, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, 1960s
Estimate: HK$320,000–400,000 / US$40,000–52,000
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 5 October
Bulgari, in the golden decades of the 1950s and 1960s, charted a course away from the paradigms of Paris, cultivating a unique voice in the colour symphony and hearlding the distinctive “Bulgari style.”
This exquisite brooch is a testament to Bulgari’s innovative approach to gemstones. Employing a rich array of cabochons and a harmonious medley of sapphires in varying tones within a single masterpiece, the brooch illuminates the subtle artistry of layered nuances. The blend of turquoise with sapphires is a characteristic choice of the era, showcasing Bulgari’s emphasis on the enchanting effects of colour combinations over the intrinsic value of the stones.
This creation hails from the realms of the highly cherished bouquet and flower basket motifs, endearingly termed giardinetto, a design that has blossomed in popularity since the whispered winds of the 1950s. The brooch stands as a sublime exemplar of such revered designs, radiating a versatility in its elegance, with the capacity to embellish a coat, bestow grace upon an evening gown, or metamorphose into a resplendent hair ornament. No wonder, then, that Bulgari’s floral-themed gems find homes within the treasure troves of celebrities.
Lacloche Frères
Lot 578, Lacloche Frères, Art Deco Diamond and Enamel Brooch
Estimate: HK$125,000–140,000 / US$16,000–18,000
The Hong Kong Jewels Auction, 5 October
While Lacloche Frères might be a whispered name, reserved for the ears of seasoned collectors, their legacy in the jewellery realm is undeniably rich. Establishing their prowess right from the bustling streets of Rue de la Paix in 1901, the three Lacloche brothers converged in Paris to inaugurate their namesake boutique.
The Maison’s most renowned and coveted pieces were forged in the epoch of Art Deco, with creations emanating both from their distinguished in-house workshop and commissioned from artisans of unparalleled skill, who also lent their craftsmanship to legendary maisons like Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Boucheron, and Chaumet.
This Art Deco brooch is a silhouette of originality and rare elegance. Framed by two arches, adorned with the deep allure of black enamel, hang two shield-shaped diamonds, creating a symphony of light and shadow. These mobile elements bestow a unique charm, distinguishing this piece as a rarity among works of similar design.
Timeless Allure
Through grand corridors of time traverse gems of yesteryear, their allure undeniable, not solely in material grace, but in tales whispered, epochs embodied, and artistry acclaimed. With reverence, Phillips unveils such hidden treasures, extending an invitation to partake in a journey through a timeless tapestry of elegance and stories untold.
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