網上拍賣 2023年3月9至16日
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歐洲中部時間
\n2023年3月9日上午10:00 開始
\n2023年3月16日下午4:00 結束
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網上競投登記截止日期歐洲中部時間3月15日，星期三下午4:00。
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拍品預覽只限預約，請透過我們在日内瓦的辦公室預約。請聯絡tto@phillips.com預約。

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請注意網上拍賣正式開始後，所有出價不得取消。
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如閣下成功投得拍賣品，總支付金額將包含拍賣品落槌價和買家應支付酬金。買家應支付酬金將按照拍賣品落槌價，以下列比率作累進式計算：
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拍賣品落槌價首1,000,000瑞士法郎之27% ；
\n加逾1,000,000瑞士法郎以上至6,000,000瑞士法郎部分之21% ；
\n加逾6,000,000瑞士法郎之餘款部分的14.5%
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網上專拍競投指南 >
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頁面上的倒數計時器顯示首件拍品的結束時間，其他拍品將按1分鐘間隔順序結束。若在截止接受競投前最後3分鐘有人出標，競投時限將會被延長。最後出標與結束時間之間會一直維持3分鐘的間隔，直至3分鐘內無人再出標，競投即會結束。
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請按此參閱富藝斯有關簽名銀行（Signature Bank）的聲明>
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Alexandre Ghotbi
\n鐘錶部歐陸及中東區主管
\n+41 22 317 81 81
\nAGhotbi@phillips.com
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Tiffany To
\n日內瓦拍賣主管
\n+41 22 317 96 63
\nTiffanyTo@phillips.com
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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is excited to announce The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, taking place from 12:00 PM CET, Tuesday, March 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Tuesday, March 12. Featuring more than 80 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It even includes the stainless steel-and-platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25820SP featured in this story.

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– By Logan Baker

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The Royal Oak has seen countless configurations over the past five-plus decades. Platinum perpetual calendars, ceramic chronographs, titanium tourbillons, one of everything in steel (of course) – you name it, the Royal Oak has been there and done it. However, right underneath our eyes, Audemars Piguet has been consistently experimenting with an unexpected way of combining multiple metals in a single watch: So long two-tone, and hello tone-on-tone.

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What am I talking about? Well, for more than 30 years now, Audemars Piguet has used the Royal Oak as a platform to combine two different white metals in one watch. The result is very different from the old-school approach of merging a white/silver metal with a yellow one in a watch; a whole different ball game compared to your grandfather’s two-tone steel-and-yellow gold Rolex Datejust. It’s a genuine cliché at this point, which is what makes Audemars Piguet’s subtle approach so refreshing.

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Audemars Piguet also makes sure to keep its two-metal, tone-on-tone Royal Oaks special. By our count, only 24 total tone-on-tone Royal Oak references have been released over the past 32 years, utilizing six different metal combinations in seven total material configurations.

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It’s a fairly straightforward process to determine the exact combination of metals in a tone-on-tone Royal Oak, just as long as you know the watch’s exact reference number. The two letters that follow the five-digit number indicate the primary materials used in the case construction. In the realm of tone-on-tone Royal Oaks, you only need to worry about a total of seven different configurations.

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-TT: Tantalum case and bracelet/Steel bezel and bracelet center links
\n-TS: Steel case/Tantalum bezel (no bracelet option)
\n-SC: Steel case and bracelet/White gold bezel and bracelet center links
\n-SP: Steel case and bracelet/Platinum bezel and bracelet center links
\n-TP: Tantalum case and bracelet/Platinum bezel and bracelet center links
\n-IS: Titanium case and bracelet/Steel bezel and bracelet center links
\n-IP: Titanium case and bracelet/Platinum bezel and bracelet center links

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The combination of titanium and platinum in a Royal Oak is the most recent addition to this list, debuting as recently as 2017 in the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26331IP (which just so happens to be included in Phillips’ current Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023 online auction).

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The pairing of titanium and platinum went on to capture a huge amount of attention with the 2019 introduction of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, which ended up taking home the Aiguille d’Or at the annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), as well as set the record (at the time) for the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch.

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But I’m getting ahead of myself. To tell this story properly, we must travel back to 1990, when one Englishman was cementing his golfing legacy on the evergreen links of St. Andrews, Scotland.

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Tantalum Meets Steel And Starts It All (-TT; -TS)

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Does the name Nick Faldo mean anything to you? Unless you’re a fan of golf, it might not – but it absolutely should if you’re at all interested in the history of the Royal Oak.

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Audemars Piguet released its initial two-metal, tone-on-tone Royal Oak in 1990 to commemorate Faldo’s successful championship defense of both The Masters and The Open Championship. Looking back at it today, the so-called “Royal Oak Championship” watch (ref. 56175TT) is a bit of an odd duck, with its slight 33mm diameter and quartz movement inside. But it’s the specific case materials that remain deeply compelling to this day – here, Audemars Piguet combined a tantalum case and bracelet with a steel bezel for the very first time.

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Interestingly, the watchmaker was also apparently quite confident the Royal Oak Championship would sell. A limited release of 2,000 numbered pieces, Audemars Piguet published an advertisement soon after the watch was announced stating that “1,100 have already been spoken for by connoisseurs from around the world.”

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It’s also worth noting that Audemars Piguet went full throttle with the tantalum and steel combination in this release. The watch was accompanied by a gift set that included a set of cufflinks, a belt buckle, a pill box, a Royal Oak pendant, and a bracelet, all crafted out of – you guessed it – a combination of steel and tantalum.

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It wasn’t long before Audemars Piguet was prepared to explore the tantalum/steel realm once again. Two years later, the mid-size 36mm self-winding Royal Oak ref. 14790TT was released, featuring an identical tantalum case/steel bezel configuration as the 56175TT. Audemars Piguet frequently used the mid-size Royal Oak as a canvas for experimental designs, such as the Yves Klein blue dials, so it’s not a surprise to find a tone-on-tone example in the reference’s history. One interesting detail of the 14790TT is that it skipped over the typical textured Tapisserie dial pattern, opting instead for an attractive smooth grey design.

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The third and final Royal Oak to use tantalum and steel together came two decades after the release of the original 14790TT. Audemars Piguet went back to the combination’s sporting roots when it came out with the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26325TS in collaboration with global football/soccer superstar Lionel Messi, in 2012. A total of 500 examples of this watch were produced, but it’s worth noting that the ref. 26325TS flipped the format of the metals compared to the older 14790TT and 56175TT models, using tantalum as the bezel material and steel for the case.

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Tips For Collecting Tantalum And Steel Royal Oaks

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It was the first tone-on-tone case metal configuration used in a Royal Oak.
It’s not uncommon to find examples of the Royal Oak Championship at auction or elsewhere on the market but finding a complete set with the entire tantalum-and-steel gift assortment is close to impossible.
It’s the only tone-on-tone Royal Oak metal combination to come in two separate configurations: a tantalum case and bracelet with a steel bezel, and a steel case (no bracelet) with a tantalum bezel.
Tantalum has the darkest natural shade of any white metal used by Audemars Piguet in a Royal Oak.

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Notable Phillips Auction Results For Tantalum And Steel Royal Oaks

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold an example of the ref. 56175TT for CHF 37,800 during last May's Royal Oak 50^th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva. (check full set?)

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The Forgotten Quartz-Powered Steel And White Gold Royal Oaks (-SC)

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The next tone-on-tone configuration was a relative blip in the history of the Royal Oak. In 1990, shortly after Nick Faldo was being honored with his limited-edition release, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak ref. 66319SC, with a 24.5mm stainless steel case and an 18k white gold bezel with diamond setting. You could select your favorite dial from a total of three colors (white, blue, and green), but you had unfortunately no choice but to accept the quartz movement inside.

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Audemars Piguet repeated the combination two years later with the ref. 66344SC (with diamond-set bezel) and ref. 66466SC (without diamond-set bezel), which were practically identical to the 66319SC series, save for the addition of a blue mother-of-pearl dial and diamond hour markers. All three references were offered in serial production.

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Tips For Collecting Steel And White Gold Royal Oaks

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The watches were marketed toward women.
Production was never limited to a specific number.
The white dial ref. 66319SC uses leaf hands instead of the Royal Oak’s traditional batons.

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Steel And Platinum? You’re Now Entering The World Of The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (-SP)

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If you’re a big fan of early Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars (and, I mean, who isn’t), then the case configuration of steel and platinum is likely one you’re already familiar with. Audemars Piguet introduced the first Royal Oak QP in 1984, following it up in 1986 with the first skeletonized version, the ref. 25636.

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The ref. 25636 remained in production for about 13 years, with a total of 312 known examples in all sorts of case metals, such as steel, yellow gold, pink gold, platinum, pink gold, and platinum (!), and finally, platinum and steel. Exactly 25 examples of the ref. 25636 in steel and platinum were produced, beginning in 1993.

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If the world of tone-on-tone Royal Oaks wasn’t cool enough, Audemars Piguet upped the level significantly in 1993 with the steel-and-platinum ref. 25686SP, which featured a rare Tuscan dial! Absolute insanity. It was highly limited in production and comes from the same pre-leap year generation for the Royal Oak QP as the 25636.

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The second generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar began in the late 1990s with the addition of a leap-year indictor (no previous Royal Oak QP featured a leap year display). The ref. 25820SP was one of the first examples produced by AP in this generation, starting in 1996. A total of 25 examples of this reference were produced in steel and platinum.

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The ref. 25829SP is the openworked variation of the 25820SP. It was produced in much smaller numbers than solid dial version, with only 25 pieces created in steel and platinum during its lifetime – actually, make that 26. In an unusual twist, a nearly identical unique piece was produced for a top client almost a decade after the original 25829SP series; it’s numbered 1/1.

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As the Royal Oak began to surge in popularity in the mid-2000s, Audemars Piguet addressed the increase in demand with the introduction of the ref. 25930SP into serial production in 2002, with an openworked dial and diamond-set bezel.

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Unfortunately, the steel and platinum generation seems to have reached its conclusion only a few years later. The most recent examples produced by Audemars Piguet were surprisingly not perpetual calendars like their precursors. They were a pair of limited-edition Royal Oak Chronographs made for the Dubai market. The ref. 25983SP was a run of 25 pieces from 2002, and the ref. 26103SP was released in a batch of 50 watches in 2005.

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Tips For Collecting Steel And Platinum Royal Oaks

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It’s (almost) all about perpetual calendars.
It doesn’t get any cooler than a steel-and-platinum Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with a skeletonized or Tuscan dial.
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars in steel and platinum have almost unilaterally reached the six-figure mark.
Platinum bezels are almost always mirror polished, a sharp contrast to the brushed bezel finish typically found on the Royal Oak.

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Notable Phillips Auction Results For Steel And Platinum Royal Oaks

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold number 16 of 25 of the ref. 25636SP for CHF 378,000 during last May's Royal Oak 50th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold number 16 of 25 of the ref. 25686SP for CHF 189,000 during The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII in May 2021.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold an example of the ref. 25820SP for CHF 201,600 during last May's Royal Oak 50th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold number 1 of 25 of the standard ref. 25829SP series for CHF 403,200 during The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold the unique-piece ref. 25829SP for CHF 289,800 during last May's Royal Oak 50th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva.

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Tantalum And Platinum Is A Casemaker’s Nightmare (-TP)

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Remember the second-generation Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar we talked about in the previous section? Well, Audemars Piguet produced a platinum-and-tantalum hybrid of the ref. 25820/25829, too. These are two of the most difficult metals to work on in all of watchmaking, resulting in very small and limited production numbers.

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One of the most interesting things about this configuration is how the cases were physically numbered. Audemars Piguet produced a batch of 25 tantalum cases and numbered them from one to 25. Those cases were then split between the openworked ref. 25829TP and the ref. 25820TP with a solid dial – but the truly absurd thing here is that the case numbers weren’t concurrently separated from one another by reference. So it’s entirely possible to have a watch that is numbered “25 out of 16” pieces – we should know. Weird, right?

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Only one other Royal Oak has been produced in platinum and tantalum thus far, and you might be surprised to learn it’s another Lionel Messi collaboration. Released at the same time as the steel and tantalum model mentioned earlier, the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26325TP had a much smaller production run, compared to its steel-bezel sibling, of only 100 pieces.

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Tips For Collecting Tantalum And Platinum Royal Oaks

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Audemars Piguet is incredible at watchmaking; their approach to case numbering could use some extra practice, though.
No examples of the Lionel Messi tantalum-and-platinum Royal Oak Chronograph have appeared at any major auction house.

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Notable Phillips Auction Results For Tantalum And Platinum Royal Oaks

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold number 25 out of 16 pieces of the ref. 25829TP for CHF 768,100 during last May's Royal Oak 50th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva.

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Titanium And Steel Are Apparently Only Good For Yacht Racing And Grand Complications – Who Knew? (-IS)

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Golf and football/soccer aren’t the only sports to receive a special tone-on-tone Royal Oak.

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Audemars Piguet released the colorful Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails, Be Happy, Limited Edition ref. 25860IS in 1999 to commemorate the first-ever Swiss yacht-racing team to compete during the America’s Cup Challenger Selection Series. The team, Fast 2000, and their boat, “Be Happy,” finished sixth out of the 11 total challengers, during the 1999-2000 Louis Vuitton Cup in Auckland, New Zealand. Three hundred examples of the first City of Sails watch were produced, featuring a titanium case and bracelet and a steel bezel. However, the overall monotone exterior is contrasted significantly by the highlighter blue and yellow colors found on the dial.

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Audemars Piguet also created a nearly identical City of Sails Limited Edition that same year for members of the Be Happy crew. The only difference was a special engraving on the caseback, reading “Royal Oak City of Sails Limited Edition Crew Watch,” and the presentation box that the watch was delivered in, which contained a piece of the Be Happy’s sail that was used during that year’s Louis Vuitton Cup.

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The final steel-and-titanium Royal Oak is an unexpected evolution for the relatively utilitarian combination of metals. It’s the Royal Oak Grand Complication ref. 26065IS, introduced in 2009. The watch is – believe it or not – still listed on Audemars Piguet’s website, indicating it might technically still be in production. I tend to think of precious metals when it comes to grand complication watches like this, so it’s rather interesting for Audemars Piguet to market one of its most complicated and elaborate creations of all time in a pair of cost-effective materials

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Tips For Collecting Titanium And Steel Royal Oaks

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The first Royal Oak in titanium and steel kickstarted Audemars Piguet’s relationship with the world of yacht racing. Numerous limited-edition watches would follow, particularly in partnership with the Swiss team, Alinghi.
Titanium and steel are so similar in color that it can be rather difficult to determine where one metal starts and another ends on these watches.
The titanium-and-steel Royal Oak Grand Complication has to be the ultimate high-low wristwatch, right?

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Notable Phillips Auction Results For Titanium And Steel Royal Oaks

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has sold two examples of the ref. 25860IS in the past, including a result of CHF 88,200 during last May's Royal Oak 50th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva.

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Titanium And Platinum, Only The Best Of The Best (-IP)

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The early 2010s were light on tone-on-tone Royal Oaks, but that all changed in 2017 when Audemars Piguet simultaneously released three different Royal Oaks, all featuring the collection’s first use of a titanium case and bracelet with a platinum bezel. It kicked off a whole new era for the tone-on-tone Royal Oak, placing the use of twin metals in a single watch at the center of the brand’s identity as it prepared to enter the 2020s.

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The Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26331IP was released in a 500-piece run to celebrate the 20^th anniversary of the chronograph-equipped sub-family. It was originally introduced alongside a new generation for the Royal Oak Chronograph, updated with larger chronograph totalizers, a reduced small seconds display, a streamlined date aperture, and thicker, faceted hour markers. The dial is a lovely combination of grey with dark blue sub-dials, and the use of the polished platinum bezel really frames the design nicely.

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Alongside the ref. 26331IP, Audemars Piguet introduced the titanium-and-platinum Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin ref. 26510IP in a run of 50 pieces, and the Royal Oak ref. 67651IP, a 300-piece limited edition that came in the same material configuration but with a much smaller 33mm diameter, a diamond-set bezel, and a quartz movement inside.

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If those three releases didn’t solidify titanium and platinum as the future, then the ref. 15202IP certainly did the job. Introduced in 2018, the 15202IP elevated the most traditional Royal Oak option in Audemars Piguet’s catalog to a whole new level. It represented the first time Audemars Piguet used the tone-on-tone format in its flagship Royal Oak “Jumbo” reference line. But forget about titanium and platinum for a moment – just look at that dial. It’s not just any old blue-dial Royal Oak, it features a brilliant dégradé effect that causes the blue hue to gradually fade to black around the dial’s periphery. The texture of the Petite Tapisserie pattern just adds to the overall aesthetic drama. Only 250 pieces were made, and you can be sure that they were gone in the blink of an eye.

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Finally, the tone-on-tone Royal Oak that is arguably the most influential and significant for Audemars Piguet in this entire story is also the most recent one to be released. It’s the last member of the prestigious tone-on-tone, twin-metal Royal Oak club (for now).

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The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586IP was introduced as a production watch in 2019, one year after Audemars Piguet wowed the entire watch industry with the RD#2, a concept watch that at the time was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar – ever.

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The eventual production piece didn’t disappoint. It maintained an identical case height (6.3mm!) and diameter (41mm), while bringing in a matte blue dial (with no Tapisserie pattern!), plus the now-classic combination of a titanium case and bracelet with a platinum bezel. The fact that Audemars Piguet chose to use a tone-on-tone case design for the release of one of its most important and impressive watches of the 21^st century should speak volumes to how they consider dual-metal, monotone cases.

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Tips For Collecting Titanium And Platinum Royal Oaks

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What did I tell you? Perpetual calendars and tone-on-tone cases are a surefire success. All we need now is a skeletonized Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
The 15202IP looks just as good as ever, five years after its release. My advice: If you can find one and have the means, buy it.
It’s been four years since we saw the last use of titanium and platinum in a Royal Oak. Has the combination already been quietly retired, or is the best still yet to come?

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Notable Phillips Auction Results For Titanium And Platinum Royal Oaks

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A full-set example of the ref. 26331IP is available to be bid on right now in our Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023 online auction (Estimate: CHF 30,000 - 60,000).
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold an example of the ref. 15202IP for CHF 277,200 during last May's Royal Oak 50th Anniversary thematic sale in Geneva.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo sold an example of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin for USD $239,400 during last December’s New York Watch Auction: Seven.

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About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

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The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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Discover More from PHILLIPS >

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About Logan Baker

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Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.

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Recommended Reading

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The Royal Oak As a Test Bed for New Materials

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A Guide: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

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Let’s Face It: Royal Oaks with Special Dials

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H/T Cara Barrett for first documenting the single-tone, two-metal trend on Hodinkee in August 2018.

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023, online auction, running from 10:00 AM CET, Thursday, March 9, to 4:00 PM CET, Thursday, March 16. Featuring more than 50 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from F.P. Journe and Daniel Roth to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.

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Our very first auction of 2023 took place in January with Le Concours de Complexité, a single-owner online sale dedicated solely to F.P. Journe timepieces. Six weeks later and we're back yet again with another heavy focus on independent watchmaking as part of our new Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023, online auction. Yes, an F.P. Journe watch does make an appearance in the catalog, but it comes as part of a much larger assortment of timepieces from many of our favorite independent makers.

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We've already placed a spotlight on two of our favorite indie pieces in the sale (a Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar and a Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Minute Repeater GMT) in our recent Specialist Picks story, but as you'll see below, there are plenty more to choose from.

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Lot 31: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain TN

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The Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Égalité was F.P. Journe’s debut watch and is the model that’s received the most attention for the brand over the years. For example, when we recently recapped the “greatest” F.P. Journe watches sold by Phillips to date, the Tourbillon Souverain showed up more than any other collection.

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One consequence of being the oldest member of the F.P. Journe family is the sheer amount of variety that can be found within the model’s history. The first generation (T), for instance, consists of all the brass-movement examples produced between 1999 and 2003, including the run of 20 “Souscription” pieces.

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This present example dates to the second generation of production for the Tourbillon Souverain, identifiable by the "TN" reference nomenclature. This is an early-production example from circa 2004 that features the rare combination of a 40mm platinum case with an 18k pink-gold dial and movement.

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Estimate: CHF 150,000 - 300,000

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Lot 8: Daniel Roth Monopusher Chronograph

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You know a Daniel Roth watch when you see one. The brand's signature ellipsocurvex case shape leaves no doubt about that. But there's more to the Daniel Roth name than pure aesthetics – in fact, the significance of Roth in the contemporary landscape of independent watchmaking can not be understated. After working at Audemars Piguet and Breguet, Roth created his eponymous brand in 1987 and is now considered to be one of the earliest independent watchmakers of the modern era.

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On the heels of the announcement of the revival of the Daniel Roth brand under the guidance of Jean Arnault and La Fabrique du Temps of LVMH, we're thrilled to offer a yellow gold monopusher chronograph from the brand that dates to the early 1990s. Using a 1930s Lemania ébauche, only 36 examples of this watch were produced in yellow gold – as indicated on the dial, this example is number nine.

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Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000

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Lot 13: Urwerk UR-103.08 TialN

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The UR-103 is likely the watch that comes to mind for most collectors when Urwerk comes up in conversation.
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\nThe four orbiting satellite displays that indicate the passing hours are instantly recognizable as an Urwerk creation. This example is the rare UR-103.08 TiaIN, featuring a stainless steel case coated in titanium aluminum nitride, an alloy that's harder than DLC and more resilient to damage such as scratches. The coating also gives the watch a unique purple-brown coloration that stands out against the brand's typical black and grey designs.

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\nThis watch also features a rare angled crystal, as opposed to the more rounded designs typically used by Urwerk in the UR-103 collection. According to Urwerk, the brand experimenting early on with this shape of crystal, but very few pieces were released due to its fabrication difficulties – in fact, less than 20 UR-103 models with this style of crystal are known.

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Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000

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Lot 23: Czapek Antarctique Roaring 40s Limited Edition

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The first modern Czapek & Cie. watch to appear at a Phillips auction is a special one. It's a limited edition of the Geneva company's popular and sporty Antarctique collection. Produced in a run of just 40 pieces, the watch features a "Roaring Forties" dial with a charcoal grey color and an attractive "fliqué" texture.

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Fitted with a 40.5mm stainless steel case, the Czapek Antarctique Roaring Forties Limited Edition has an integrated stainless steel bracelet, featuring a quick-change system that allows you to quickly swap it out with the accompanied OEM rubber strap. The movement inside the watch is Czapek's exclusive SHX5 caliber with micro-rotor that was developed in partnership with Chronode.

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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Lot 24: Ming 37.05 Moonphase

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Ming has quickly become a common presence in Phillips' catalogs. The Kuala Lumpur-based micro-brand is easily one of the most important new voices in watchmaking. Now in its sixth year, Ming successfully combines high-end Swiss watchmaking with contemporary, clean aesthetics.

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Released in 2021, the Ming 37.05 Moonphase is the company's first watch to feature a lunar complication. The dial is divided into two layers; the lower one is a textured metal, in a midnight blue-to-black gradient, with an upper transparent sapphire dial that showcases the hour markers and hour ring – each is covered in a ceramic composite with luminous material. The movement inside the 38mm stainless steel case is a Sellita SW288 that's received extensive modification by Schwartz-Etienne.

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Estimate: CHF 3,000 - 6,000

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Lot 20: H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Swiss Mad Red

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H. Moser & Cie. positions its Pioneer series of sport watches as an entry point into the brand – and this "Swiss Mad Red" version is the one to get. The brilliant bright red fumé dial has a gradient sunburst pattern that starts out as burgundy in the center before gradually fading away to a darker shade. The subtlety of it all takes your breath away.

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This is a sport watch after all, so it does have a larger-and-in-charge 42mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown and 120 meters of water resistance. It leaves a strong presence on the wrist without feeling overly bulky. Of course, you can't forget the self-winding manufacture caliber HMC 200 inside. The movement is fully visible through a sapphire crystal exhibition back that stretches from edge to edge of the case. The hairspring – which is crafted by Precision Engineering, a sister company of Moser – is held in place by a rock-solid V-shaped balance bridge. The movement decoration is also excellent for the price, featuring diamond polishing and Moser's so-called "double stripes," the company's take on traditional Côtes de Genève.

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Estimate: CHF 7,000 - 14,000

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Lot 12: M.A.D.1 Red

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It's hard to believe MB&D's M.A.D 1 collection has already been with us for two whole years. Introduced in 2021 as an affordable alternative for members of MB&F's tribe – AKA, "friends and family" – only a few hundred pieces were initially made available and distributed to three groups: official suppliers who actually work on MB&F's watches, and then the owners of those very timepieces. When word of the M.A.D 1's existence broke out among the wider watch collecting world, they quickly demanded their own opportunity to purchase an example. They eventually received that opportunity in 2022.

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Introduced last year, the M.A.D 1 Red was announced and offered to collectors via a raffle system. It also featured a slightly tweaked design from the original 2021 watch, with a slimmer bezel and a more practical round-shaped crown. Unlike conventional MB&F watches with Swiss-made, in-house developed movements, the M.A.D 1 utilizes an inverted and modified version of the affordable Miyota caliber 821A from Japan.

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Estimate: CHF 2,000 - 4,000

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Lot 14: MCT Sequential One S110 EVO

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Introduced in 2015 as a limited edition run of 25 pieces, MCT's Sequential S110 Evo features a cutting-edge way of indicating the time. The hours are indicated by four modules, each composed of five triangular prisms that form individual panels to showcase each hour numeral. The minutes are then indicated by a central minute hand that rotates on a 270-degree jumping minute-sector.

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\nThe cushion-shaped case is crafted from grade 5 titanium with an unconventional design that utilizes semi-detached lugs. The movement is intricately decorated, with bridges and plates featuring a delicate Côte de Genève finish. This watch is number 7 out of the original 25 piece limited run.

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023, catalog here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Discover More from PHILLIPS >

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

Specialist Picks: Geneva Sessions II Online Sale

\n\n

Auction Highlights: Our Favorite Limited Edition Watches At The Geneva Sessions II Online Sale

\n",[237,238,239,240,241,242,243,244],2,1756,4132,116597430,"FP-Journe","daniel-roth","Urwerk","Czapek","Ming","H. Moser","MB&F","MCT","

\n\n

Limited editions are the name of the game in high-end watchmaking these days. Some collectors love them, others ... not as much, but they're a fact of life in the current watch landscape. Typically, once a limited edition watch sells out, it disappears onto the wrists of their new owners and into their watch boxes. If you missed out, you were simply out of luck. But sometimes, those same watches find their way back to market.

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A number of those limited edition watches – all interesting and desirable in their own rights – are included in the catalog of our Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023, online sale, which is now live. You can view the complete catalog right here, or read on for a few of our favorite limited-edition watches featured in the sale.

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Lot 21: A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase

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The “Lumen” series of watches from A. Lange & Söhne are some of the German maker’s most exclusive, featuring a semi-transparent sapphire dial and interior luminous accents. The smoky grey sapphire crystal allows ultraviolet rays to pass through to the luminous components on the movement and dial, allowing them to glow brightly when in darkness.

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First released in 2016, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen was a limited series of just 200 pieces in platinum. It was the first Lange watch to include a luminous moon-phase display and a luminous outsize date.

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Estimate: CHF 40,000 - 80,000

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Lot 4: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Scuba Edition

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Audemars Piguet transforms its Royal Oak platform even further into legendary sport watch territory with Offshore deviations such as the present Scuba Edition. Part of a limited edition of 300 pieces from the late 2000s that was exclusively available via Audemars Piguet's brand boutique network, the stainless steel watch has a depth rating of up to 300 meters.

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The watch is outfitted with Audemars Piguet’s signature Mega Tapisserie textured dial and large Arabic luminous hour markers. A black ceramic pusher at the 10 o’clock position controls the adjustment of the interior red aluminum timing bezel. The present example was originally purchased in May 2008 and is in overall excellent condition.

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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Lot 36: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium Gold “The Hour Glass”

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The Freak X is Ulysse Nardin's attempt at creating a more approachable version of its high-concept Freak collection. This example was originally released in 2019 in partnership with the notable Singapore-based retailer The Hour Glass. A 30-piece limited edition, the Freak X waves its characteristic flag high with a flying carrousel movement system that rotates on its own axis to indicate the passage of time. However, unlike previous generations of the Freak, the Freak X series has a traditional external crown at three o'clock and a smaller case diameter of 43mm.

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One of the most interesting elements of this limited edition watch is its case material. The watch is made of carbonium, a unique lightweight material that's more commonly found in world of aviation, in the bodies and wings of aircraft. However, Ulysse Nardin didn't source just any carbonium here – in this edition, gold flakes were mixed with the carbon composite during the casemaking process, resulting in a unique two-tone striated design that looks and feels exceptionally organic.

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Estimate: CHF 15,000 - 30,000

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Lot 19: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Power Reserve

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Skeletonized watches can be hit or miss. Unless they're executed at the highest level, they can end up on the cheap or garish side. Thankfully, Bulgari doesn't have that problem with the Octo Finissimo. Just see the Octo Finissimo Skeleton Power Reserve. first released in 2018 as a limited edition of 200 pieces, before a production model debuted the following year. Compared to the standard time-only automatic Octo Finissimo, the openworked manual-wind variant has the added value of a power reserve indicator above the small seconds display, as well as an additional five hours of running autonomy.

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The combination of hand winding with the open, visible movement architecture is extremely visually compelling, as it offers a full view of the barrel (located near one and two o'clock) and mainspring. Trust us, this watch is an absolute pleasure to hand wind. The total thickness of the case is only 5.5mm tall, so it maintains the tenets of the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo design, while offering benefit in other areas. Ultra-thin and extremely comfortable, the dark blue finishing on the outer minute and seconds track gives the timepiece a pleasant touch of color which elegantly contrasts against the darker ceramic color.

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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Lot 10: Montblanc 1858 Rattrapante Limited Edition

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Montblanc's 1858 series takes its name from the year the historic Minerva manufacture was founded in Villeret (as the H&C Robert Company) by watchmaker Charles-Yvan Robert and his brother. Minerva, of course, eventually became a part of Montblanc and the Richemont Group in the 2000s, and the 1858 series has become one of the company's flagships series, since its official 2018 debut. Chronographs being a historic specialty of Minerva, the movement inside the 1858 Split Second Chronograph is the manually wound MB M16.31 caliber, which is based on the 17.29 pocket watch movement originally developed in the 1930s by the Villeret watchmakers.

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Minerva's contemporary watchmaking team built on the original 17.29 platform to add a rattrapante complication, through the addition of a secondary column wheel and hammer, as well as auxiliary levels and clamps. If you're at all familiar with Minerva movements, you'll immediately recognize the traditional V-shaped bridge (an element so characteristic of Minerva timepieces that it was actually patented in 1912), the signature arrowhead tip of the chronograph brake lever, and an extra-large balance wheel that leisurely ticks at 2.5 Hz; the overcoil hairspring is also produced in-house by Minerva in Villeret. The movement is notable for its large size (it was originally a pocket watch caliber, after all), which provides extra room to explore the intricate architecture and hand-finished decoration (which includes côtes de Genève, extensive perlage, and polished bevels in nearly every visible direction) with a loupe.

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Introduced in 2020, this Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph was produced in a limited series of 100 examples. Featuring a sporty-retro appearance, its design echos Minerva military chronographs of the 1920s and 1930s. Equipped with a tachometer scale in a spiral form in the center of the dial, the watch's wearer can measure times of up to three minutes, instead of only one when using a more traditional chronograph scale. The plus-sized movement ends up resulting in a substantial 44mm × 14.55mm case profile; however, the prominent dimensions are balanced by the use of grade-5 titanium for the case metal, which allows for lightweight wearability. Visually, the watch is finished with a solid-gold dial that's coated in grand feu enamel to achieve an electric shade of blue with contrasting orange elements on the sub-dials and seconds track. An eye-catching "snail" three-minute tachymeter scale and outer telemeter scale complete the complicated look.

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Estimate: CHF 12,000 - 24,000

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Lot 38: Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retrograde With Football/Soccer Mickey Mouse

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Gérald Genta was undoubtably ahead of his time. The Swiss designer more or less single-handedly spearheaded the entire genre of luxury sport watches, but he also understood the importance of pop culture. Under his eponymous brand, he was able to explore that side of himself via a series of mechanical watches featuring Disney characters on the dial – most famously, with Mickey Mouse.

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Bulgari, now the steward of the Gérald Genta brand, decided to revisit this terrain in 2022 with a revival of the Arena Bi-Retrograde wristwatch featuring Mickey kicking a football/soccer ball. The result is fascinating, with a retrograde minute, retrograde date, and jumping hour displays. Limited to only 200 pieces, the dial that surrounds Mickey is crafted from beautiful natural mother of pearl.

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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Lot 17: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition

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A total of 306 examples of this Laureato Absolute Chronograph were produced in 2022 in partnership with the Aston Martin F1 team. While the textured green dial is eye-catching enough, the case is plenty fascinating as well, composed of a blend of titanium powder and carbon elements that were sourced from a pair of Formula One race cars that were actually used during the 2021 season – a first in the watch industry.

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The dial of the watch is presented in the iconic "Aston Martin Racing Green" with a shimmering sunray finish and cross-hatching, giving the watch additional sporty appeal. The cross-hatched motif can be traced back to Aston Martin's "AM" badge of 1921, when the A and M were first intertwined. Finally, Girard-Perregaux outfitted the watch with the self-winding chronograph movement, the caliber GP03300.

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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Lot 49: Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 8 Days Darren Romanelli Limited Edition

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Here's a Reverso you probably haven't seen before.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre called on the Los Angeles-based multihyphenate creative Darren Romanelli to develop his own Reverso in the early 2010s. The result was this watch, the Grande Reverso 8 Days Darren Romanelli Limited Edition, featuring an outer black enamel dial with guilloché finishing in the center and small seconds at 5 o'clock. The dial includes Romanelli's signature scissor motif in two separate places on the dial, as well as on the caseback. Only 50 examples were produced, and this one is number 18.

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Estimate: CHF 2,000 - 4,000

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You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023, catalog here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Discover More from PHILLIPS >

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

Specialist Picks: Geneva Sessions II Online Sale

\n\n

Auction Highlights: Independent Watchmaking At The Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023 Online Sale

\n",[253,254,255,256,257,258,229,259],38,15,1,1755,4134,116595714,"jaeger-lecoultre","girard-perregaux","gerald-genta","montblanc","bulgari","ulysse-nardin","lange-soehne","

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Our first multibrand auction of the year is packed with interesting and underrated lots from all sorts of brands. We have a focus on independent watchmaking (of course!), as well as a number of interesting chronographs and limited-edition pieces that you may have missed when they were first released.

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As our Geneva-based team worked on sorting through the 53 total lots included in the sale, we naturally developed a few favorites. These are those watches – the six pieces that our team of seven specialists and writers couldn't get out of their head after studying them for weeks and weeks in preparation for the sale.

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You read that right: Six pieces highlighted by seven Phillips Watches team members. Oh yes, two of our specialists ended up falling head over heels for the exact same lot – and you'll never guess which watch it is.

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Lot 35: Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar Ref. C117

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Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000

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Alexandre Ghotbi, Head Of Watches, Continental Europe And EMEA

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This watch sees the teaming up of two incredible watchmakers whom in their own way not only changed independent horology as we know it in the 1990s but also opened the path to a new generation that would take the world by storm: Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour. Roth had reached out to Dufour to create the world's first instantanious perpetual calendar, where all indications would jump to the next increment simultaneously at midnight rather than dragging slowly to the next increment at different moments. At first their idea was to have the calendar functions indicated via discs visible through appertures on the dial but the discs proved to be too heavy and the duo opted for an indication using hands; thus, the world's firsr instantanious perpetual calendar movement was born. The present example also features an intricately finished openwork dial that allows you to admire the perpetual calendar in action.

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Lot 15: Rolex Daytona Ref. 116506

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Estimate: CHF 70,000 - 140,000

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Tiffany To, Head Of Sale, Senior International Specialist

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Launched at the Baselworld 2013, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116506 marked a milestone for the firm as it was released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the world-famous chronograph. The watch has an incredibly stealthy appearance – if you know, you know. Aesthetically, I also find the appearance to be completely stunning with the ice blue dial contrasting beautifully against the brown bezel.

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Lot 11: Louis Erard × Massena LAB Le Régulateur

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Estimate: CHF 2,000 - 4,000

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Virginie Liatard Roessli, Specialist, Associate Director

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The Louis Erard × Massena LAB Le Régulateur is certainly an eye-catching watch. The presence of its 42mm case diameter on the wrist does not go unnoticed. But what captivates my eye is its dial. The choice of a regulator display allows the dial, built on two levels, a beautiful golden grainé finish and rhodium circular satin finish on the outer ring and the subdials, to display its beauty without the disruption of an hour hand. The result is nothing short of spectacular. It's no surprise that the entire limited edition release sold out instantly when it was released in 2022. I particularly appreciate this piece – I actually own one! – which is proof that, despite its size, it can fit all wrists.

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Lot 44: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric GMT Minute Repeater

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Estimate: CHF 30,000 - 60,000

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Arthur Touchot, International Head Of Digital Strategy, Specialist

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Michel Parmigiani founded his first workshop in 1976, in Couvet, Switzerland. Held in high esteem for his seemingly effortless ability to restore some of the world’s rarest and most complicated timepieces, he was soon joined by an incredible roster of watchmaking talent, including Kari Voutilainen (founder of Voutilainen), and Denis Flageollet (founder De Bethune), who reveled at the chance to cut their teeth on the timepieces found in Couvet. Parmigiani continued to lead by example when he launched his own brand, in 1996, to develop a collection of timepieces that captured what he admired most: complicated mechanisms, beautiful movement architectures, and traditional hand-finishing. The present Toric GMT Minute Repeater is a fine and early example of Parmigiani’s personal endeavour to keep those principles alive. With fewer than 20 examples made, this is a rare opportunity to claim one of the finest watches made during that special period for watchmaking.

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Lot 39: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5970P, Factory Sealed

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Estimate: CHF 120,000 - 240,000

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Marcello de Marco, Specialist, Business Development Associate

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The Patek Philipee ref. 5970 is as close as it gets to the "perfect watch" for me. Aesthetically, it is an example of perfectly balanced design and a true trait d'union between vintage and modern Patek production. Technically it is the last model to feature the historic Lemania movement, truly the end of an era. in terms of rarity and collectability, it features one of the most unusual production runs of the company: The pink gold and white gold models were in production for four years, then the yellow gold example was made for just one year, and finally the platinum version was in production for the final two years. Such an unusual production history makes each version extremely rare, in fact even more so than its predecessor, the ref. 3970. Choosing a version is an arduous task as each one has merits of its own: the versatility of the white version, the warmth of the pink one, the sporty elegance of the platinum, and the vintage vibe and rarity of the yellow case... Thus my apologies for cheating a little but I will leave this choice to the collector and limit myself to say that any 5970 is a dream watch and at the top of my fantasy wish list.

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Lot 11: Louis Erard × Massena LAB Le Régulateur

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Estimate: CHF 2,000 - 4,000

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Clara Kessi, Client Relations Manager

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For their first collaboration, Louis Erard and Massena Lab worked relentlessly on a new wristwatch that would combine traditional craftsmanship, history, and avant-garde technology. In 2022, they unveiled Le Régulateur, which would instantly be nominated for an award at the internationally acclaimed Grand Prix de la Haute Horlogerie de Genève. Taking great inspiration from the marine chronometers developed by Ferdinand Berthoud and the work of Antide Janvier, Le Régulateur shows hours, minutes, and seconds, divided over three registers presented within a mesmerizing gold frosted dial. Aesthetically beautiful featuring blued steel hands contrasting to perfection with the brushed registers and golden dial, Le Régulateur moreover impresses by its precision and durability. Offered for the first time at auction, the present lot will certainly delight the new and seasoned collectors looking to enter the intricate world of independent watchmaking with an eye-catching and unusual timepiece at an accessible price.

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Lot 5: Breguet Classique 5175 Ginza Edition

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Estimate: CHF 10,000 - 20,000

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Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager

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I say this out of love and admiration, but Breguet has been on a bit of a cold streak over the past few years. The company’s biggest area of emphasis these days appears to be the Marine series of sport-adjacent watches, but it’s difficult to say whether those have successfully found a market. And despite consistent rumors for years about a new generation of the legendary Type XX/XXI pilots’ watch, we’ve yet to see one materialize. You could say that it's a bit of a hard time to be a Breguet enthusiast, but I bring good news: There are still some incredible watches being produced by the brand – you just have to know where to look for them.

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One such watch is the Classique 5175 Ginza Edition, a simply gorgeous limited-edition dress watch that Breguet created in 2017 to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the brand’s boutique in Tokyo’s Ginza luxury shopping district. Only 10 pieces were produced, which is far too few, because it’s a downright beautiful watch. The grand feu enamel dial is a perfect shade of dark indigo blue, interrupted only by the delicate italicized Breguet numerals that were placed using powdered platinum. The lack of a date aperture is wonderful thing to relate – which is something we can’t quite say for the 5175's follow-up production series, the Classique 5177.

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I think the Classique 5175 is a perfect example of everything that is wonderful about Breguet. In fact, I'd go so far as to say it's arguably the best dress watch the company has produced in at least a decade, and as far as I can tell, the example (No. 10 of 10) included in our Geneva Sessions online sale is the first ever to appear at auction. If you consider yourself a Breguet fan but have grown disenchanted with the brand of late, I think you owe it to yourself to consider placing a bid on the Classique 5175.

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You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023, catalog here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Discover More from PHILLIPS >
\n

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

Auction Highlights: Our Favorite Limited Edition Watches At The Geneva Sessions, Spring 2023 Online Sale

\n\n

Auction Highlights: Independent Watchmaking At The Geneva Sessions II, Spring 2023 Online Sale

\n",[266,267,268,269,270,271,238],41,1757,4133,116598847,"breguet","louis erard","massena lab","patek-phillipe","parmigiani-fleurier","Rolex",{"_277":291,"_15":292,"_280":293},{"_277":288,"_15":289,"_280":290},{"_277":285,"_15":286,"_280":287},{"_277":282,"_15":283,"_280":284},{"_277":278,"_15":279,"_280":281},"imagePath","https://dist.phillips.com/auction-assets/CH080323/5_hi.jpg","

PATEK PHILIPPE, Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A-001

\n","version","1676906212","https://dist.phillips.com/auction-assets/CH080323/4_hi.jpg","

AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak Chronograph “20th Anniversary” Ref. 26331IP

\n","1676906201","https://dist.phillips.com/auction-assets/CH080323/3_hi.jpg","

ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 116506

\n","1676906171","https://dist.phillips.com/auction-assets/CH080323/2_hi.jpg","

PATEK PHILIPPE, Nautilus Ref. 5713/1

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F.P. JOURNE, Tourbillon Souverain Ref. 040-04TN

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Phillips Watches Online Auction: The Geneva Sessions Spring 2023

53拍品

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