Rolex - The Watch Auction: One Geneva Saturday, May 9, 2015 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1986
    Reference No: 16800
    Case No: 9'421'621
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, 3035
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster, reference 93150, end links stamped 593
    Clasp/Buckle: Folding twin lock clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Accessories: Punched guarantee dated 29th December 1986, fitted presentation box, outer packaging, swing tags and product literature

  • Catalogue Essay

    Within the constantly evolving Rolex Submariner product line, the reference 16800 is noteworthy for being the first Submariner to be fitted with a sapphire crystal. Requiring a redesigned bezel, the enhancements significantly increased the Submariner’s water resistance, rising from a depth rating of 200 meters to 300.

    Considered a transitional model, the earliest versions of the 16800 were fitted with matte dials with luminous markers directly applied to the dial, whereas later versions were fitted with glossy dials with luminous, white gold markers.
    The present example, perfect for a discerning collector, comes complete with its original boxes, papers, and accessories. It especially stands out thanks to its immaculate dial with markers that have aged to a warm ivory color.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16800
A rare stainless steel wristwatch with centre seconds, date and bracelet

40mm. Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

CHF5,000 - 8,000 

Sold for CHF8,750

Contact Specialist
Nathalie Monbaron
+41 22 317 81 83

The Watch Auction: One

Geneva Auction 10 May 2015 6:30pm