It is well known by the collecting community that there exist a number of “landmark models”: Patek Phillippe’s ref. 1518, Audemars Piguet’s ref. 5402, Rolex's ref. 16520 are easy examples - references which made the history of watchmaking and are considered “must haves” for the serious collector. There is however a higher, the highest some may say, level of collecting. In few uncommon instances some objects are so distinctive due to their condition, rarity, looks or history, that they transcend the importance and fame of their model to become icons of their own, well known by collectors in their own regard. Given the fact that watchmaking is generally speaking an industrial manufacturing process, there are extremely few pieces which have risen to such glory: the true “Grail” status.
Some examples of this category are Paul Newman’s Rolex Paul Newman, J.B. Champion's observatory tourbillon Patek Philippe, or the Daniels Space Traveller(s). There is no need to mention references or serial numbers; most likely the collector reading these lines knows perfectly the pieces that are being mentioned.
The present watch is indeed a representative of this ultimate category of collecting. Phillips is pleased to present to you the Breguet Spider Lug.
A representative of reference 1579 - defined by the faceted/angular architecture of the lugs, which grants it the nickname “Spider Lugs” (“Anse a Ragno” in Italian) - the present example first appeared at auction in New York in 2000, and then a second time in Geneva in 2007. Since then, it resided in the same collection for the past 16 years.
Most obviously a special order, the present watch features an incredible engraved/enamelled Breguet numerals dial with oversize counters - rather than the usual applied square markers found on this reference.
Flawlessly backed by the Patek Philippe Archives confirming the enamelled Breguet numerals, this dial configuration completely transfigures the looks of the watch thanks to the flamboyancy of the Breguet style which pleasantly and surprisingly juxtaposes itself to the eminently utilitarian chronographic complication. Even more interesting is the fact that the two main design modifications are actually working against one another, in terms of style: while, as mentioned, the Breguet numerals pull the watch to the more eclectic, less utilitarian side of the design spectrum; the oversized counters imply a push toward increased readability and practicality, traits deeply rooted in the utilitarian side of watch design.
It is important to point out that Breguet numerals Patek Philippe dials are a sought-after rarity in general, but when it comes to engraved/enamelled Breguet numerals - rather than the relatively more usually seen fully enamelled, applied, or printed ones - the numbers dwindle to risible digits. It appears to be a somewhat more common feature in the 20s and 30s, when it was adopted as the standard on very early chronograph watches (some of them rattrappante) cased in tonneau or officer cases (about 20 pieces of these are estimated to have been made in total). Beyond those chronographs, a few 1920s and 1930s time-only examples are known in this configuration as well as a 1948 ref. 570 in steel (sold by Phillips in 2021). In the realm of complications, it has only been seen on wristwatches such as:
- Patek Philippe first minute repeating watch, 1916 (PP museum)
- one 1926 rectangular minute repeater watch (PP museum)
- two 1938 tortue-cased triple calendar watches with moonphases (PP Museum)
- the present 1953 Breguet Spider Lugs
- one 1954 ref. 2497 in platinum (sold at auction in 2008)
While the previous list might be not exhaustive, it shows the incredible rarity of this configuration, especially after the 1930s.
Such scarcity classifies engraved/enamelled Breguet dials as arguably the most rare dial style found in Patek Philippe timepieces, and makes the present watch potentially one of only 3 post-war Patek Philippe wristwatches featuring it, and certainly the only post-war wrist chronograph.
Compounding to its striking aesthetics and unique piece status, the present watch is offered in astoundingly good condition. The faceted lugs which give the reference its nickname are due to their construction extremely sensitive to polishing. Most 1579 present some softening of the edges or some alteration to the lugs’ proportions. In this instance, however, it is apparent that the case has been preserved in exceptional condition, fully retaining unadulterated its peculiar architecture. The dial condition fully matches that of the case: absolutely original and unrestored, it presents no fading or losses to the graphics, rather sporting a charming and even ivory patina which both amplifies the appeal of the watch, and certifies that no intervention has been done to the dial.
An horological “perfect storm”, the present piece is without a doubt one of the most important pure chronographs made by any watchmaker ever, making this an historical and most likely unrepeatable opportunity for the collector of ultimate timepieces.
