570
An Art Deco Gem-set and Diamond Clip Brooch, Cartier, Circa 1925
- Estimate
- HK$280,000 - 330,000€33,700 - 39,700$35,000 - 42,000
HK$375,000
Lot Details
Two cabochon and six faceted rubies, totalling approximately 6.80 carats; and two faceted red spinelsOld-cut diamonds in the surround, totalling approximately 5.00 caratsPlatinum<em>With signed, fitted case</em>
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
This brooch is numbered HSA31. Cartier pieces that display an HSA number indicate that the piece is a unique heritage piece, authenticated and sold by Cartier itself.
Persian and Indian stylistic influences can be seen heavily dominating Cartier designs from as early as 1913 until the end of the 1930s. The supply to Cartier of large quantities of stones from India reached its pinnacle in the 1920s and lent a character to the jewels of Cartier that was distinct from that of Cartier’s contemporaries. Jewels incorporating faceted diamonds together with cabochon and beaded rubies, emeralds and sapphires, previously thought to be unrefined or `barbaric’ in nature, came to be seen as en vogue, and the popularity of Indian and Persian style jewellery among non-Indian clientele reached its peak from the late 1920s to late 1930s.
The present lot is a 1920s example of a Cartier jewel influenced by the elements of Persian and Indian style. Its plume-like, stylised arrangement of graduated cabochon rubies and diamonds recalls the traditional aigrette worn by Hindu and Muslim princes, also known as 'sarpech’.
Persian and Indian stylistic influences can be seen heavily dominating Cartier designs from as early as 1913 until the end of the 1930s. The supply to Cartier of large quantities of stones from India reached its pinnacle in the 1920s and lent a character to the jewels of Cartier that was distinct from that of Cartier’s contemporaries. Jewels incorporating faceted diamonds together with cabochon and beaded rubies, emeralds and sapphires, previously thought to be unrefined or `barbaric’ in nature, came to be seen as en vogue, and the popularity of Indian and Persian style jewellery among non-Indian clientele reached its peak from the late 1920s to late 1930s.
The present lot is a 1920s example of a Cartier jewel influenced by the elements of Persian and Indian style. Its plume-like, stylised arrangement of graduated cabochon rubies and diamonds recalls the traditional aigrette worn by Hindu and Muslim princes, also known as 'sarpech’.
Literature