Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction, running from 12:00 PM ET, Thursday, 2 October, to 12:00 PM ET, Friday, 10 October. The sale features more than 70 high-end luxury wristwatches, covering a range of brands, including A. Lange & Söhne, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe.
– By Logan Baker
Beyond the headline lots, every auction reveals a handful of watches that reward a closer look. The Fall 2025 edition of New York Sessions is no exception, with a selection of rare, creative, and historically significant timepieces that speak to the richness of watchmaking well beyond the mainstream.
From cloisonné enamel artistry and academic complications to oil-filled dive watches and early landmarks of independent watchmaking, the sale offers pieces that collectors will recognize as true discoveries.
Lot 53: A Circa 1995 IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Split-seconds Chronograph Ref. 3751
Estimate: USD $8,000 - 16,000
First introduced in 1969, IWC’s Da Vinci debuted with the Beta 21 quartz movement inside a distinctive cushion-shaped case with integrated bracelet (ref. 3501). Over the decades, the Da Vinci evolved into one of the brand’s signature collections, its name a nod to the Renaissance polymath whose blend of art and science mirrors IWC’s own approach to watchmaking.
The collection reached a milestone in 1985, when IWC unveiled the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (ref. 3750) at Baselworld. Designed by Kurt Klaus, its groundbreaking perpetual calendar module was fully integrated into the movement and could be adjusted entirely through the crown – a radical advance at the time. The watch’s articulated bar lugs, rounded double-tier case, and distinctive pushers gave it a bold, contemporary identity.
A decade later, IWC expanded on this achievement with the reference 3751, a perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph created to mark the model’s 10th anniversary. Richard Habring engineered the split-seconds mechanism, which added a tenth hand to the already complex dial. Produced from 1995 to 1999 in a limited run of 500 pieces – all in platinum – the 3751 is today regarded as one of the most technically ambitious and historically important Da Vinci references.
The example offered here, number 95, survives in excellent original condition and is accompanied by its IWC guarantee and presentation box, underscoring its rarity and desirability for collectors.
Lot 16: A 2000 Roger Dubuis Sympathie Chronograph S37 in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: USD $15,000 - 30,000
Roger Dubuis established his eponymous brand at a moment when true independence was still an outlier in Swiss watchmaking.
He began his career in the late 1950s at Longines, working in after-sales service. There, while repairing the legendary 13ZN chronograph movement, he discovered his fascination with complicated watchmaking. Dubuis soon moved to Patek Philippe, where he spent 14 years as a constructor and master watchmaker in the complications department. After leaving Patek, he opened his own Geneva atelier in 1980, producing movements for other brands. But it wasn’t until the mid-1990s that he took the decisive step of launching a brand under his own name.
His inaugural collections reflected both reverence and originality: the round, classically styled Hommage and the more daring Sympathie, distinguished by its unconventional case design.
The Sympathie chronograph offered here is powered by a movement based on the Lemania 2310 ébauche – the same foundation used in Patek Philippe’s celebrated reference 5070. Dubuis elevated the construction to the highest standards, securing both the Geneva Seal and certification from the Besançon Observatory. Originally planned as a limited edition of 28 watches, far fewer were actually completed. Research suggests only six examples were made in pink gold and six in white gold, underscoring the rarity of this model.
This period in the mid-1990s marked the first flowering of modern independent watchmaking. The Sympathie belongs to that pioneering era – a watch that embodies both technical refinement and creative boldness.
The present example, reference S37, is cased in 18K pink gold with a luminous black glossy sector dial and contrasting sub-dials. Striking in its proportions and presence, it stands as one of the foundational creations of the independent movement – an original in every sense, and a clear inspiration for the thriving independent scene of today.
Lot 18: A Circa 2024 Anoma A1 First Series
Estimate: USD $500 - 1,000
The UK-based microbrand Anoma has built its identity around a sculptural, unconventional aesthetic. Even its name – short for “anomaly” – underscores the company’s philosophy of defying traditional watchmaking codes.
Anoma’s debut, the A1 First Series, takes its cues from mid-century design. Its asymmetrical form draws inspiration from a free-form table by Charlotte Perriand, the organic shapes of Constantin Brancusi, and other modernist influences. The founders first encountered one of Perriand’s tables in a Paris antique gallery, a discovery that sparked the design journey leading to the A1.
The watch itself carries echoes of Gilbert Albert, the celebrated Swiss designer whose daring creations for Patek Philippe and others remain icons of mid-20th-century watch design. The A1 features a polished, asymmetrical triangular case with a hidden crown and lugs that enhance its seamless profile. An offset, brushed lacquered blue dial with crosshair detail adds a sharp, contemporary edge. Comfortable on the wrist yet distinctly sculptural, the A1 demonstrates Anoma’s commitment to marrying artistry with wearability. The example offered here comes from the original owner and appears at auction for the first time, complete with its full set of accessories.
Lot 56: A 2006 Unique Speake-Marin Phoenix Piccadilly in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: USD $12,000 - 24,000
Peter Speake-Marin launched his eponymous brand in 2002, building a reputation for distinctive timepieces that combined traditional English and Swiss watchmaking with rare and imaginative dial designs. His inaugural model, the Piccadilly, set the tone for the brand’s bold yet classical aesthetic. Now under new ownership since 2012, Speake-Marin continues to produce modern independent watchmaking of the highest order.
The present “Phoenix” is a singular creation, born from the initiative of a young Japanese engraver whose name remains known only to the watchmaker. Wishing to contribute his own artistic vision to the Piccadilly, the engraver crafted a dial centered on a floral interpretation of the phoenix – the mythical bird of perpetual rebirth – set with a single diamond. The theme carries through to the movement, with the automatic FW2012 calibre featuring hand-engraved decoration of phoenix feathers and floral motifs.
Numbered 1 of 1, and preserved in crisp condition with minimal signs of wear, this watch comes from a noted collector of independent timepieces. It stands as both a rare work of art and a testament to the collaborative spirit that has long defined the independent watchmaking scene.
Lot 26: A 2011 Speake-Marin, Marin 2 MK-1 Thalassa Limited Edition
Estimate: USD $10,000 - 20,000
Limited to just 30 pieces, the present Speake-Marin – numbered 02 – is cased in 18K white gold and fitted with a semi-translucent dial that offers a view onto the German silver movement beneath.
This watch houses only the second wristwatch movement created entirely in-house by Speake-Marin. The manually wound calendar calibre is distinguished by a blued steel seconds wheel rendered in the brand’s signature design. Named Thalassa – the Greek word for “sea” and also a primordial sea goddess – the watch takes its title from the deep blue of the outer track, a vivid detail that anchors the composition.
Lot 20: A Circa 2004 Ulysse Nardin Monopusher Chronograph Ref. 380-88 in 18k White Gold
Estimate: USD $2,000 - 4,000
With its vintage-inspired proportions, the 37mm white gold Ulysse Nardin Ref. 386-88 is a compact yet powerful single-button chronograph.
At its heart is the calibre UN-38, derived from the Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) calibre 45MC – the same movement that powered the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. This historically important ébauche was the work of three young watchmakers who would later redefine independent horology: François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter.
The crisp white dial, set with black Breguet numerals, pays direct tribute to the earliest chronograph wristwatches. Offered from a prominent collector of independent timepieces, this watch is complemented in the sale by its pink gold counterpart, listed as lot 21.
Lot 19: A 1998 Blancpain Léman Flyback Chronograph “Bagatelle 1999” Limited Edition
Estimate: USD $1,000 - 2,000
This limited edition of just 99 pieces was created to celebrate Le Mans, the annual automotive event held at the Parc de Bagatelle in Paris under the patronage of Louis Vuitton. The watch is distinguished by its sapphire caseback and solid 18K gold rotor, engraved to mark its special edition status.
Inside beats a chronograph movement based on the celebrated Frédéric Piguet calibre 1185, renowned for its slim architecture and reliability. The watch is paired with Blancpain’s stainless steel X71 bracelet, combining sporty appeal with everyday comfort.
Offered from a noted collector of independent wristwatches, it is presented complete with its original guarantee and presentation boxes.
Lot 37: A 2023 Breguet Héritage Tourbillon Ref. 5497 in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000
This year marks the 250th anniversary of Breguet, the legendary house founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823). Widely regarded as one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, Breguet introduced innovations that continue to define modern horology. Chief among them was the tourbillon, patented on June 26, 1801, a mechanism that countered the effects of gravity on the balance wheel and hairspring by averaging positional errors through constant rotation.
The reference 5497, introduced in 2008 as part of the Héritage collection, pays tribute to that invention. The tonneau-shaped case frames a silvered gold guilloché dial with applied Roman numerals and blued steel Breguet hands. Most notably, the dial is inscribed with “Brevet du 7 Messidor An 9,” the French Revolutionary calendar date of Breguet’s original tourbillon patent. Produced in both pink gold and platinum, the 5497 combines rarity, elegance, and technical mastery.
The present example, preserved in excellent condition, stands as a fitting homage to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s ingenuity and to the enduring legacy of the brand that bears his name.
Lot 60: A Circa 1994 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Répétition Minutes Ref. 270.2.73 in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: USD $20,000 - 40,000
Introduced in 1994 as a limited edition of 500 pieces, the Reverso Répétition Minutes brings one of watchmaking’s most admired complications – the minute repeater – into the iconic Reverso case. Combining elegance and technical ambition, it marked Jaeger-LeCoultre’s very first minute-repeating wristwatch.
At its heart is the manual-wind calibre 943, developed under the guidance of master watchmaker Eric Coudray. Despite the compact dimensions of the Reverso case, the movement produces a chime that is both clear and resonant, a testament to Coudray’s ingenuity. The dial underscores the timeless design with a silvered finish and guilloché center.
Numbered 443 of 500, the present watch is offered in outstanding condition and retains its complete set of accessories. For collectors, it represents not only a refined minute repeater but also a landmark in the history of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most iconic model.
Lot 70: A 2023 Ressence Type 5 “Black Black”
Estimate: USD $15,000 - 30,000
When Ressence introduced the oil-filled Type 3 in 2013, the brand unexpectedly solved one of the fundamental challenges of dive watches: refraction. By filling the dial chamber with oil, legibility was dramatically improved, even underwater and in low-light conditions.
Building on that discovery, Ressence launched the Type 5, a professional-grade diver’s watch certified to ISO 6425 standards, with water resistance to 100 meters and a unidirectional rotating bezel. The oil-filled construction not only enhances readability but also reduces internal friction, allowing the movement to operate more efficiently.
The present example is the Type 5 BB – short for “Black Black” – appearing at auction for the first time. Offered by its original owner, it remains in near-unworn condition and is accompanied by its complete set of accessories.
Lot 57: A Circa 2006 Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Equation of Time Ref. 26003BC
Estimate: USD $12,000 - 24,000
Introduced in the 1990s, the Jules Audemars Collection was Audemars Piguet’s deliberate return to traditional watchmaking after the bold success of the Royal Oak. Named for co-founder Jules Louis Audemars (1851–1918), a watchmaker celebrated for his technical ingenuity, the collection emphasized classical round cases and complex movements, spanning perpetual calendars, tourbillons, minute repeaters, and – most rarely – equation of time watches.
The reference 26003BC combines a perpetual calendar with moon phases and an equation of time, one of horology’s most esoteric complications. While the perpetual calendar tracks the Gregorian calendar, the equation of time displays the discrepancy between mean time and true solar time. Because of Earth’s elliptical orbit and axial tilt, the length of a solar day shifts throughout the year, ranging from about +15 to -15 minutes relative to standard time. This reference uses an additional hand with a sun motif, paired with an outer scale, to indicate the precise adjustment. Calibrated specifically to Geneva, the watch reflects the city’s solar zenith of 12:36 p.m.
Offered in very good condition and accompanied by a full set of accessories, the Jules Audemars Equation of Time stands as both a legacy piece of fine Swiss watchmaking and a reminder of Audemars Piguet’s dedication to bridging tradition with technical mastery.
Lot 55: A 1994 Omega '1894' Ref. BA135.1894 Limited Edition in 18k Yellow Gold with Cloisonné Dial
Estimate: USD $10,000 - 20,000
Cloisonné enamel dial watches are among the most coveted timepieces in collecting today, admired for their rarity and the painstaking artistry involved in their creation. In the mid-20th century, they represented the height of luxury, with maisons such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, and Omega commissioning enamel dials that depicted mythological scenes, maps, landscapes, animals, and celestial themes. Many of these were crafted by the famed Stern Frères dial makers, often as unique commissions or in extremely limited runs. Between 1946 and 1956, Omega distinguished itself with a prolific output of cloisonné enamel creations, now considered treasures of that golden age.
In 1994, Omega honored its centenary with the release of the “1894,” a limited series of just 100 watches. Each piece carried a hand-crafted cloisonné dial – in this case, a vivid floral motif that recalls the artistry of mid-century enamel work. Beneath the dial beats a “new old stock” calibre 286, a hand-wound movement prized for its accuracy and reliability, and regarded as one of Omega’s finest. According to Omega’s Heritage Department, the present watch was delivered to the United States on August 12, 1999.
Numbered 26 of 100, this example is cased in 18K yellow gold, measuring 35.5mm in diameter. Preserved in excellent condition and accompanied by its original warranty and presentation box, it stands as a rare opportunity to acquire a modern homage to Omega’s historic enamel artistry.
Lot 6: A Circa 2012 Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: USD $12,000 - 24,000
The 41mm pink gold case of the Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar embodies discreet elegance, its polished surfaces and balanced proportions radiating a quiet sense of luxury. The bronze dial, accented with pink gold details, adds warmth and depth to one of watchmaking’s most academic complications.
Inside, the self-winding calibre 2120/2802 powers the display. Renowned for its precision and reliability, this movement seamlessly manages the perpetual calendar, accounting for the varying lengths of months and leap years with no adjustment required until the year 2100. Finely decorated with Côtes de Genève and perlage, the calibre is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Offered as a complete set with its original winding box, the present example remains in excellent overall condition, even retaining its caseback sticker.
You can view the complete Phillips New York Sessions, Fall 2025, Online Auction catalogue here.