The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI takes place on May 13 and 14, at our new Asia headquarters in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The auction includes more than 200 of the world's finest watches. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale over the next few weeks, including the 10 neo-vintage favorites highlighted here.
We all know a vintage watch when we see it, but what of the field of "neo-vintage" timepieces?
This exciting new collecting arena has emerged in recent years based around the period between the pre-Quartz Revolution vintage era and the 21st century, comprising mechanical timepieces released by prestige (mostly) Swiss brands from the mid-to-late 1980s to – at the latest – the first few years of the 2000s.
Our upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI contains a number of lovely, rare watches from this period – here are 10 of our favorites.
Lot 905: A Circa 1997 Omega Speedmaster Professional 'Golden Panda' Ref. BA 145.0122
Handsome, rare, and sought-after by Speedmaster enthusiasts, the “Golden Panda” was first released in 1997, specifically for the Japanese market. With its nickname obviously derived from the combination of the attractive white dial with black registers and chapter ring against the solid 18K yellow gold case. Contrasting beautifully with all its other elements, the black bezel insert heightens the appeal of the “panda” dial.
The present example Omega Speedmaster ref. BA 145.0122 “Golden Panda” is certainly the most desirable example to ever appear at auction, as it is numbered 1 out of the limited edition of 40 pieces, the very first one produced. Not only that, but it is also well-preserved with an unpolished case; it comes complete with its original guarantee and presentation box as well as an Extract from the Omega Archives confirming the production of the present timepiece with its corresponding movement number, in 1997. Estimate: HKD $320,000 - 630,000
Lot 837: A Circa 1993 Franck Muller Chronograph Double Face
Geneva-based watchmaker Franck Muller started his small-scale independent firm in 1992. Much of his early work was inspired by historical complications but reimagined with a sense of modernity. One of his numerous ingenious cretions was the Double-Face Chronograph that features an oversized seconds counter on the reverse of the watch, a complication that could once be found on pocket watches.
The wristwatch is distinguished by having dials on both sides of the case to allow for multiple chronograph scales that are highly legible. The front features a conventional dial with chronograph registers, while the back has an oversized, one-minute register with center seconds as well as a pulsometer, tachymeter, and telemeter, operated by the chronograph buttons. Due to its large display, the scales are significantly easier to read than on an ordinary chronograph.
The present watch is a ref. 7000 DF JA from circa 1993 that is cased in 18k yellow gold and has a classically proportioned case diameter of 39mm. The dial features a textured champagne matte dial with Roman numerals and blued steel hands. Accompanied by its full set of original accessories, the timepiece has aged beautifully and developed an attractive oxidation on one side of the case, giving the watch a distinctive character all its own. Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 80,000
Lot 948: A Circa 1988 Gérald Genta Fantasy Mickey Mouse Ref. G3712
The world of horology would not be the same without Gérald Genta, who famously designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. However, under his own name, Genta created some of his most brilliant timepieces.
In the 1980s, Genta obtained an exclusive license from The Walt Disney Company to design limited-production wristwatches that incorporated iconic Disney characters such as Mickey Mouse, Donald Duck and Minnie Mouse, in either 18K gold or steel cases.
Dubbed the "Fantasy" collection, these timepieces combined mechanical movements with whimsical complications and time displays and the magical world of Disney. The present timepiece from circa 1988 is certainly a special one as it is number 1 of a limited series made to commemorate the 70th Anniversary of Disney's most famous and beloved character: Mickey Mouse. Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 100,000
Lot 904: A Circa 1996 Omega X-33 Flightmaster Prototype
Omega is no stranger to producing watches for space exploration, having designed the watches worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the surface of the Moon in 1969. About 25 years later, Omega embraced the task of designing a new watch that could best serve modern astronauts – thus, the X-33 was eventually born.
Initially prototyped and tested under the Flightmaster name, reminiscent of Omega's famous vintage pilots' chronograph, the first incarnations of this amazing new-age digital chronograph passed all tests unscathed whether in the hands or on the wrists of pilots or astronauts. With its titanium case and multi-function quartz movement, the X-33 project showcased many of the ideas initially proposed by Omega in the Alaska I, Alaska IV, and Condor projects and prototypes.
Titanium was chosen as the ideal case material due to the fact that it is hypo-allergenic, non-ferrous, non-magnetic, light, and extremely robust. The watch also has analog as well as digital timekeeping displays, with many additional functions such as a display of military time, Universal Time (GMT), and mission elapse time (MET), with an applicable alarm for each.
Two versions of the original prototype were made. The first, produced in 100 examples, featured a single caseback, providing a lower decibel alarm. The example seen here is part of a second batch of prototypes built with a double caseback that amplifies the alarm up to 80 decibels. Only 22 examples of this version were produced, and they're easily identifiable by the large, red central minute hand. Estimate: HKD $63,000 - 130,000
Lot 840: A Circa 1991 Breguet Souscription Set (Wristwatch: Ref. 3430; Pocket Watch: Ref. 1890)
The idea of a inaugural Souscription (subscription) series of watches for a young watchmaker is no longer foreign to many collectors thanks to the famous series of watches released by F.P. Journe beginning in the late 1990s. This unique approach, however, was actually borrowed from Abraham-Louis Bregue. In 1991, the modern incarnatation of the Breguet brand set out to create a limited series of 300 timepiece sets to commemorate the company's more than 200 years of history. The sets consisted of a pair of watches, including a 37mm perpetual calendar wristwatch with minute repeater (ref. 3430), and a 62mm pocket watch (ref. 1890).
The ref. 3430 perpetual calendar minute repeater, is fitted with a classic guilloché dial and coin edged finish on the caseband. Inside the wristwatch is the caliber 567, derived from the Lemania minute repeating caliber cal. 399 with a perpetual calendar module added on top. The triple finger bridge architecture and extensive Côte de Genève decoration result in a gorgeous, compact, and highly complicated package.
Matched as a pair, the pocket watch ref. 1890 is – also – a truly spectacular creation. Based on similar Breguet pocket watches from the late 18th century, it proudly displays a hammer-winding mechanism through the large exhibition caseback. From the platinum oscillating weight with anti-friction sapphire rollers to the serpentine steel arm, to the signature Breguet parachute shock absorber placed on both pivots, the movemement is a work of art. This Souscription Set (No. 34 of the 300 sets) was developed and manufactured by Michel Parmigiani when he worked at Breguet in the early 1990s when the company was controlled by Investcorp. The No. 34 Breguet Souscription Set comes with its original wooden presentation box and the original Breguet certificates. Estimate: HKD $620,000 - 1,500,000
A Pair Of Late 1990s Patek Philippe Aquanaut Limited Editions For The Japanese Markets (Lots 995 + 996)
The Aquanaut ref. 5060, initially released in 1997, was the first wristwatch from Patek Philippe to be fitted with a rubber strap. Production was initially quite limited on the Aquanaut as a whole, but a year or so after the watch's debut, Patek Philippe decided to dedicate a pair of limited-edition Aquanaut watches exclusively for the Japanese market. The Aquanaut ref. 5066A-010 with its 36mm stainless steel case, automatic movement, and matte dark blue dial is the more sought-after of these two series, with approximately 500 examples believed to have been produced starting in 1998.
The second Japan-exclusive Aquanaut was also unveiled in 1998, the Patek Philippe ref. 4960A-001 is a rare ladies' Aquanaut with the same embossed dark blue dial found in the ref. 5066A-010 but updated with a smaller 29.5mm stainless steel case and a quartz movement. Unlike the standard version of the Aquanaut, the ref. 4960A-001 came with a matching solid stainless steel bracelet, giving it a bit of a different visual profile.
Offered with its complete set of accessories including a blank Certificate of Origin, Patek Philippe Japan service guarantee, and its original presentation box, the ref. 5066A-010 in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI is an excellent opportunity for collectors to acquire one of the rarest Aquanaut variants. Based on our research and to the best of our knowledge, the present example is a previously unknown example and is the twelfth example to appear at auction. Estimate: HKD $390,000 - 640,000
The Aquanaut ref. 4960A-010 included in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI is offered in excellent overall condition and is accompanied by its Patek Philippe service invoice, an additional midnight blue composite rubber strap with a stainless steel deployant clasp, the fitted presentation box, the outer packaging. and a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming an original date of sale of October 29, 1998. To the best of our knowledge, this is only the sixth example to be identified, and fewer than a handful of these watches have become available on the market. Estimate: HKD $100,000 - 160,000
Lot 875: A Circa 1995 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 'Darth Vader' Ref. 16520
Released in 1988, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520 was Rolex's first Daytona with a self-winding movement. Rolex famously utilized a Zenith El Primero ébauche for its automatic Daytona all the way up until 2000, when it was replaced by Rolex's first in-house self-winding chronograph movement inside ref. 116520. Fitted with the last out-sourced movement, the Daytona ref. 16520 is very popular among collectors and enthusiasts around the world and typically commands a premium compared to early examples of the ref. 116520 generation.
While the entire reference has appreciated over the years, some specific examples from various production series have proven to separate themselves from the pack. The "Darth Vader" Daytona is one such watch.
Rolex used a special varnish called Zapon on the dials at the time. The varnish was not applied equally on the top of the silvered registers on certain dials, which has resulted in those watches gaining a tropical effect limited solely to the sub-dials. The story goes that, in 2005, a famous Italian auctioneer sold one of these "tropical" examples, and despite its natural imperfection, the watch sold for double its estimate.
Research has since shown that Daytona ref. 16520 examples bearing an S, N, T, and/or W serial are more likely to see this effect on the sub-dials as the watch ages. The patina typically forms a light shade of brown, but a few examples have surfaced over the years with registers in a much darker “espresso-like” hue, eventually earning the sci-fi nickname of "Darth Vader."
The present example is one of those rare birds that has achieved a darker espresso-like patina on the registers. Bearing a “W” serial, the watch dates to circa 1995 and comes in excellent overall condition with its full set of accessories and a guarantee stamped by a Hong Kong Rolex retailer. Estimate: HKD $400,000 - 800,000
Lot 903: A 1994 Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch '25th Anniversary Apollo XI' Limited Edition
The Omega Speedmaster Professional "Moonwatch" is one of the world's most iconic timepieces. Having been part of all six lunar landings, the legendary chronograph is an impressive representation of Omega's adventurous and pioneering spirit.
To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Apollo XI lunar landing, Omega released three different limited-edition Speedmasters in 1994. Fifty pieces were cased in platinum and featured skeletonized dials by the Biel-based watchmaker Armin Strom, 2,500 example were created in stainless steel, and 500 watches – like lot 903 – were built and offered in 18k white gold.
The chronometer-certified caliber 864 inside ref. PIC 3912.30.00 – BC 384.0062 limited edition featured a rhodium plating, while the dial was rendered in a lovely shade of silver. The caseband is engraved with the anniversary notation: "APOLLO XI 1969 – 1994." The 500 18k white-gold models were further split into two sub-references – ref. 3192.30 was delivered on a matching 18k white gold bracelet, and ref. 3692.30 came on a leather strap.
The present watch is the former. It's number 63 in the series and has a confirmed production year of 1994, as indicated by the Extract from the Omega Archives. The watch is also in exceptional overall condition with a beautiful yellow patina visible on the lume plots of the dial. Estimate: HKD $160,000 - 320,000
Lot 973: A 1990s Gérald Genta Perpetual Calendar Ref. G3144.7
It wasn't always about stainless steel sport watches and Disney characters for legendary watch designer Gérald Genta. One of Genta's most interesting eras came in the mid 1990s when he focused much of his energy on developing highly complicated wristwatches and pairing them with unexpected case designs and shapes. The present ref. G3144.7 is an excellent example.
Genta incorporates a perpetual calendar inside of this unusual perfectly symmetrical round 33mm case, adding in screwed lugs reminiscent of the Cartier Pasha (another Genta creation), a mother-of-pearl dial, and a moon phase complicated embedded with lapis lazuli. A sapphire crystal exhibition caseback is included, allowing for a full view of the automatic caliber 3392 in action. Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 240,000
Lot 979: A 1990s Audemars Piguet Huitième Chronograph Ref. ST25644/002
Audemars Piguet released its first-ever automatic chronograph wristwatch with date in 1986. Initially presented without a specific name, the watches were eventually nicknamed “Huitieme” in some catalogs starting in 1988 in order to best appeal to the Italian market. A watch with numerous firsts to its name, the ref. 25644 was also the first Audemars Piguet timepiece created in tantalum, alongside the more typical yellow gold and platinum variants.
Fitted in a rounded stainless steel case, the present wristwatch features a white dial paired with black hour markers and a tachymeter scale. Complete with blued hands offering easy legibility, the Huitième Chronograph is a well-balanced timepiece both in proportion and functionality. The current timepiece has a “C” serial, which likely indicates it's one of the early examples in the series. Estimate: HKD $48,000 - 78,000
Neo-Vintage Honorable Mentions: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Ref. 43050 (lot 835), Cartier Collection Privée, Tortue Quantième Perpétuel (lot 1014), Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time, Gübelin 150th Anniversary Ref. 5134G (lot 920), Breguet Grande Complication Tourbillon 1801-2001 (lot 971), Parmigiani Fleurier Régence Square Table Clock (lot 839), Patek Philippe 'Manta Ray' Ref. 5100P-001 (lot 922), Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP Ref. 2356E (lot 842)
You can learn more about and register to bid in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI by visiting our online catalog.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
Specialists' Picks: The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI
A History Of Alternative Time Displays At Vacheron Constantin
Three Larger-Than-Life Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores You Likely Forgot About