Reference 96 is a cornerstone of Patek Philippe production, and the first example of what is today possibly the most elegant and distinguished line of dress watches: the Calatrava collection. Launched in 1932, it was not only the first Calatrava, but also one of the very first model to feature a reference number (the reference system was indeed introduced in 1932), and the first model to apply the Bauhaus staple that “form follows function”. Indeed there are no additional and unnecessary ornaments or decorations. The piece achieves its powerful impact thanks to clean, simple, elegant lines. By many, reference 96 is considered the model against which every and all dress watches shall be compared, a true benchmark for the category.

The present example is without a doubt one of the most attractive and collectible reference 96 to recently appear on the market. Its condition alone would place it on top of a purist collector wishlist, but it is furthermore blessed by an equally well preserved black dial, moreover signed by Swiss retailer Gübelin. Black dials at the time were extremely rare, made only on request. To find together both a black dial and a Gübelin signature is a truly remarkable occurrence. In fact, if we considered this series of reference 96 featuring a 12-400 calibre, only seven black dial examples are known, and of these seven only three - including this fresh to the market, never before seen masterpiece - feature the Gübelin signature.