66

Daniel Roth

Ref. 2147

Chronographe "Skeleton, "BIA"

A possibly unique yellow gold skeletonized chronograph wristwatch with pink gold openworked dial, made for “BIA”, the Brunei Investment Agency

$30,000–60,000
Daniel Roth
Circa 1990s, Switzerland
No. 28
2147
Chronographe "Skeleton, "BIA"
18K yellow gold
Manual, cal. 2320, 21 jewels
Leather
18K yellow gold pin buckle stamped “GRE”
35mm width x 38mm length
Case, dial, and movement signed. Additionally stamped “BIA” on the underside of crystal.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Possibly unique “BIA” stamp on crystal
• Only the second known reference 2147 in this configuration, 18K yellow gold case with a pink gold skeletonized chronograph movement

In 1988, Roth ventured to starting his own company amidst the recovery from the quartz crisis. Any devoted Daniel Roth enthusiast would agree that the most sought-after models are often produced between the years from 1988 to 1994, when Roth still had creative control over the design and production of his watches.

Reminiscent of the awe-striking beauty of the Breguet No. 160 Marie-Antoinette pocket watch, which displays its stunning wood-polished pink gold plates, bridges and moving parts on an open-worked dial, this present watch also showcases a mesmerizing pink gold movement inside its yellow gold double-ellipse case. Exposed to the wearer on both the front dial and sapphire case back, the pink gold barrel, bridges and open plates are embellished with the most exquisite hand engravings. The patina developed echoes with the burin-marked details of the hand-engravings to emit a brilliant shimmer consisting of a fascinating shade of pink, bronze, and silver, contrasting beautifully with the blued-steel handset. The dial design of the timepiece also exhibits a continuation of the Breguet aesthetics, often resonated in Roth’s work, and features the classic satin-finished chapter rings decorated by the hand-made 'filet sauté' guilloché on the rim.

Previously, only one other example had been previously identified in this configuration. However, this No. 28 bears a unique feature never-before-seen: a company logo etched or printed on the underside of the crystal. In this instance, “BIA” refers to the Brunei Investment Agency, which was established in 1983 and remains active to this day. The watch was acquired directly from the family of the original owner, who was one of the directors at the agency in the mid 1990s, and is offered publicly for the first time.

Daniel Roth

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