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\n","enableHighlightsView","enableOnlineCatalogue","endSale",true,"hideSoldLots","isChineseTranslate","isExhibition","isLiveAuction","isMixedAuction","makeLive","showAdvanceBidButton","showArtCollector","showBuyButton","showCatalogueDownloadLink","showInquireButton","showPrintCatalogueSection","showRegistrationLink","showSaleOffers","showSoldPrice","lots",[245,246,247,248,249,250,251,252,253,254,255,256,257,258,259,260,261,262,263,264,265,266,267,268,269,270,271,272,273,274,275,276,277,278,279,280,281,282,283,284,285,286,287,288,289,290,291,292,293,294,295,296,297,298,299,300,301,302,303,304,305,306,307,308,309,310,311,312,313,314,315,316,317,318,319,320,321,322,323,324,325,326,327,328,329,330,331,332,333,334,335,336,337,338,339,340,341,342,343,344,345,346,347,348,349,350,351,352,353,354,355,356,357,358,359,360,361,362,363,364,365,366,367,368,369,370,371,372,373,374,375,376,377,378,379,380,381,382,383,384,385,386,387],"viewing",{"_222":223,"_224":225,"_48":226,"_227":228},"articles",[174,175,176],"departments",[167],"auctionCurrency",{"_165":70,"_166":70},{"_154":155,"_156":157,"_158":159,"_160":161,"_162":49,"_163":164},"totalLotCount",143,"auctionMobilityAuctionRowId","1-9X4S0E","auctionUrl","https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH060225","auctionResultsFile","https://www.dist.phillips.com/content/web/auction-results/auctionResultsFile_CH060225.pdf","countryName","Switzerland","countryCode","CH","line1","Hotel President Wilson","line2","Quai Wilson 47","city","postCode","1211","currencyCode","currencySign",{"_168":169,"_170":171,"_172":173},"departmentId",4,"departmentName","Jewelry","departmentDisplayName","Jewels",{"_177":213,"_179":173,"_180":214,"_16":215,"_183":216,"_185":217,"_187":188,"_189":190,"_191":192,"_193":218,"_195":192,"_197":219,"_199":220,"_201":221},{"_177":203,"_179":173,"_180":204,"_16":205,"_183":206,"_185":207,"_187":188,"_189":190,"_191":192,"_193":208,"_195":209,"_197":210,"_199":211,"_201":212},{"_177":178,"_179":173,"_180":181,"_16":182,"_183":184,"_185":186,"_187":188,"_189":190,"_191":192,"_193":194,"_195":196,"_197":198,"_199":200,"_201":202},"coverUrl","https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/bulgari-1-7fa603e6-05ec-4ec8-b065-ec2f354d9b83_s600x0.jpg","section","summary","A remarkable Bulgari ‘Serpenti’ from the 1950s comes to auction in the Year of the Snake.","When Does a Watch Become a Jewel?","body","

Lot 344: Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. Estimate: CHF240,000–430,000 / US$270,000–485,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Shrink it and pink it, so they say. Oh, and add diamonds.

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For many watchmakers today — even for a few of the highest order — this is often the approach to watchmaking for ladies. At times, it can seem like the prevailing wisdom is that by making a watch smaller and adding gemstones, you’ve turned a tool into jewellery, a man’s blunt instrument into a gem fit for a lady.

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But this has never been enough for Bulgari.

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For generations, the house has brought the full weight of its creativity and savoir-faire to its watch designs. For Bulgari, the notion of a power watch has always been fit for ladies, and for evidence, look no further than the ‘Sepenti’ — one of the most instantly recognizable and deeply symbolic designs in the history of jewellery (or watchmaking).

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From its origins in the 1940s to its evolution into a modern-day icon, the Serpenti remains a powerful representation of metamorphosis, rebirth, and longevity. As the serpent motif is referential to both Ancient Roman and Ancient Egyptian jewellery design, the Serpenti is a fitting emblem for the most notable Italian jewellery house, especially when they’re at play in the historically Swiss arena of watchmaking. What’s more, the Serpenti has also been spotted on the wrists of stars ranging from Elizabeth Taylor to Zendaya, proving its perennial mystique on the red carpet and beyond.

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As 2025 marks the Year of the Snake in the Chinese zodiac, there’s no better time than now to celebrate the legacy of this mesmerizing collection with such a precious example on offer in the Geneva Jewels Auction: IV. A true hallmark of the line dating from the 1950s, this remarkable piece was featured in a 2023 global exhibition celebrating the 75thanniversary of the Sepenti’s conception.

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A uniquely enticing Serpenti

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Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Holding this piece in the hands, we discover elegant surprises reflecting themes of resilience, regeneration, and transformation inherent to the classical symbol. On the wrist, its coiling bracelet forms itself to the wearer in an embrace, the snake’s scales rendered in brushed gold and accented with marquise-shaped diamonds, adding brilliant-cut diamonds to the head and tail.

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Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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But the most fantastical surprises lie on and within the serpent’s stylized head, inviting prolonged admiration. We find ourselves engrossed in the 1.01 carats light pink diamond it wears as a crown and staring deeply into the serpent’s pear-shaped ruby eyes — our own expression mirroring the figure’s enigmatic smile. To lift the snake’s head is to know the joy of tactility and craft, as a delightfully executed silver dial is revealed, indicating the time with gold markers.

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Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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And beneath this dial lies the serpent’s beating heart, a mechanical movement by LeCoultre — three syllables that can make even the most stoic watch aficionado swoon. Dating from the late 1950s, the complete experience of this watch is something that remains rare, equally admired by connoisseurs of jewels, fashion, design, and horology of any gender. The longer you spend with it, the more the piece reveals to the eyes and to the mind.

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Serpenti History

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Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Bulgari introduced the Serpenti motif in the late 1940s, seeking inspiration from Greek and Roman mythology, Ancient Egypt, and Chinese culture. In their early designs, Serpenti watches featured a flexible Tubogas bracelet, which allowed the pieces to wrap elegantly around the wrist like a coiled snake. The dial was meticulously concealed within the reptile’s head, a testament to Bulgari’s ingenuity, flair, and innovation.

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From the 1950s onwards, the Serpenti collection evolved, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. This included the introduction of new features, such as scales applied with polychrome enamel, additional coils added to the snake’s body, and bracelets embellished with diamonds and gemstones, as seen in the present lot.

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With time, the naturalistic serpent motif became increasingly stylized, and more sophisticated movements replaced the snake’s head entirely, some supplied by Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Vacheron Constantin. Until today, Bulgari has continued to reinvent and reimagine its Serpenti design, producing sleek and modern pieces that preserve their unique interpretation of this classical and natural motif.

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Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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A marriage between realms, fusing jewellery with watchmaking, ancient symbolism with modern aesthetics, this lot emblemizes Serpenti’s timeless appeal and serves as a reminder that true icons are continuously reborn.

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Discover More from The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV >

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Recommended Reading

\n\n

ROCKS TO WATCH: Exceptional by Any Measure >

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A CENTURY OF ART DECO >

\n","publishDate","2025-04-22T20:22:37.000000Z","authorCredit","Jesse Limbacher","coverPosX",50,"coverPosY",0,"articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/157767109/when-does-a-watch-become-a-jewel-bulgari-serpenti-geneva-auction","displayOrder",2,"auctionEditorialID",2731,"editorialID",4933,"flocklerID",157767109,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/art-deco-lead-e88228e5-44ab-44ed-b18c-590a43f533ad_s600x0.jpg","The movement’s journey to timelessness starts, of course, in Paris.","A CENTURY OF ART DECO","

Lots 324 and 332. Model wearing Galvin. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Exactly 100 years ago in Paris, a revolutionary aesthetic movement was solidified at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes.

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Art Deco, as it would come to be known, was born through experimentation in the early 20th century and eventually transformed the fields of design, architecture, and jewellery forever. Today, its geometric patterns, bold symmetry, and streamlined sophistication are as fresh and recognizable as they were a century ago. As an embodiment of modernity, innovation, and craftsmanship, Art Deco’s core principles also remain highly influential.

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With a remarkable selection of pieces dating from this transformative era, The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV offers a moment to reflect on what Art Deco can mean for culture and taste today.

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Cartier: A new tradition

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Lot 330: Cartier, Onyx and diamond jabot brooch. Estimate CHF3,500–5,000 / US$4,000–6,000, No Reserve. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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When considering Art Deco jewellery, no name springs to mind faster than Cartier. Always at the forefront of design, Cartier’s Art Deco era spans roughly from 1910 to 1930, making the maison one of the first to explore this uncharted territory.

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Lot 333: Cartier, Diamond brooch, circa 1925. Estimate: CHF13,000–18,000 / US$15,000–20,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Seeking to distance his maison from the principles of Art Nouveau, Louis Cartier led early experiments that brought the simplicity of modern design to jewellery, favoring geometric motifs and incorporating grid, square, and checkerboard patterns into his collections. As these design hallmarks have remained emblematic of Cartier ever since, it can be surprising to imagine just how avant-garde these designs were when they were new.

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Platinum: Where artistry meets industry

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Lot 332: Chaumet, Pair of diamond earrings, circa 1934. Estimate: CHF35,000–52,000 / US$40,000–60,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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The modern era ushered in new industrial technologies that allowed jewellers to work with platinum in ways previously prohibited by the precious metal’s high melting point. Platinum’s strength allowed for intricate, lightweight settings that enhanced geometric form and openwork design. Across these platinum lots, jewellery-making flair and historical significance combine with the material’s rarity in pieces that reward the wearer.

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Lot 328: Janesich, Rock crystal and diamond brooch, 1920s. Estimate: CHF2,600–4,500 / US$3,000–5,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Henri Picq: A brave designer’s new world

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Lot 324: Cartier, Diamond brooch, circa 1910, French maker's mark for Henry Picq. Estimate: CHF18,000–26,000 / US$20,000–30,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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With the onset of Art Deco, craftsmen rose to the fore, and perhaps none is more lauded than Henri Picq who produced some of the most exquisite platinum jewellery pieces of the time. His work bears many hallmarks of Art Deco design, including delicate millegrain detailing and masterful use of negative space. His atelier, which was closely linked to Cartier, created ornate diamond-set pieces that defined the maison’s aesthetic during their successful collaboration.

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Lot 334: Cartier, Diamond and enamel brooch, circa 1930. Estimate: CHF45,000–70,000 / US$50,000–80,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Art Deco lives on

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Lot 331: Pair of natural pearl, onyx and diamond earrings. Estimate: CHF13,000–22,000 / US$15,000–25,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Many things draw us in as jewellery lovers — elegance, cultural value, rarity, historical significance, natural wonder, and — some would say most importantly — design.

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As we look back on 100 years of Art Deco design, the wide-reaching influence of this imaginative era remains as relevant and captivating as ever. From technical breakthroughs to audacious artistry, today we can rediscover one of the most iconic movements in the history of jewellery. And with this auction, now is the time to make some of that history your own.

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Lot 337: Laloche, Agate, enamel, sapphire and diamond desk timepiece. Estimate: CHF12,000–18,000 / US$14,000–20,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Discover More from The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV >

\n\n

Recommended Reading:

\n\n

ROCKS TO WATCH: Exceptional By Any Measure >

\n\n

When Does a Watch Become a Jewel? >

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\n","2025-04-21T19:35:04.000000Z","https://www.phillips.com/article/157526098/a-century-of-art-deco-jewels-auction-geneva",1,2730,4931,157526098,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/rockstowatchlead-2-a43f8d9a-6642-4ca6-9218-a7a8bd532b06_s600x0.jpg","From a showstopping yellow diamond to a remarkable Kashmir sapphire, discover the stones catching eyes this season in Geneva. ","ROCKS TO WATCH: Exceptional by Any Measure","

Impressive Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond and diamond pendant, old mine brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 53.14 carats. Estimate: CHF2,150,000–3,100,000 / US$2,400,000–3,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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53.14 carats, and they were all Yellow

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Impressive Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond and diamond pendant, old mine brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 53.14 carats. Estimate: CHF2,150,000–3,100,000 / US$2,400,000–3,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Visiting our auction preview in Geneva, your eye will immediately notice the radiance reflected by the highlight of the sale — an old mine brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond of an astonishing 53.14 carats.

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The stone seems to possess a magical allure, so captivating in its impressive size and old-world charm that the room may momentarily disappear around you, the pendant seemingly suspended in mid-air. Bringing with it yellow’s associations with vitality, wisdom, creativity, and joy (and also a GIA report stating the stone is natural colour, internally flawless, with excellent polish), the effervescent pendant is certifiably a trophy in any case — or on any wearer.

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A diamond (or four) for the ages

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Superb pair of diamond earrings, each set with an oval diamond weighing 10.92 carats and 10.58 carats, D Colour, Flawless, Excellent Polish and Symmetry, Type IIa. Estimate: CHF1,250,000–1,600,000 / US$1,400,000–1,800,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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This pair of diamond earrings do more than pass the eye test — the 10.92 and 10.58 carat ovals (each accented with a brilliant-cut 0.36 carat diamond) possess an exceptional optical transparency as Type IIa diamonds, which were made famous by the Cullinan Diamond and its incorporation into the British Crown Jewels in the early 20th century. Anchoring a classic hook and drop setting, the graduating stones are delicately balanced and symmetrical when worn or displayed, and their excellent polish pulls and reflects light from every angle.

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When Bulgurai is Burmese

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Bulgari, Fine ruby and diamond ring, Burmese ruby weighing 7.37 carats, no heat. CHF400,000–530,000 / US$450,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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The power, passion, and ardor symbolized by rubies clearly pair well with the Roman spirit of Bulgari — but this isn’t just any ruby. Octagonally cut in alignment with Bulgari’s signature geometric flair, this 7.37 carats unheated Burmese ruby is nothing short of remarkable. Seasoned collectors highly prize the distinctive red hue of Burmese rubies, catalyzed by their elevated chromium content. And here, Bulgari is the catalyst that transforms this stone into a wearable and striking work of art, its pulsating red core surrounded by a halo of diamonds like a flower.

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Bulgari, Fine ruby and diamond ring, Burmese ruby weighing 7.37 carats, no heat. CHF400,000–530,000 / US$450,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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A Paraiba tourmaline with no end in sight

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Impressive unmounted Paraiba tourmaline, weighing 122.77 carats, Mozambique, no heat. Estimate: CHF335,000–530,000 / US$380,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Owing to its rarity, impressive neon colourscape, and stone quality, the Paraiba tourmaline captivates both the attention and demand of collectors worldwide. This impressive, unmounted gemstone boats a saturated arctic blue hue, while the fine cut amplifies its reflective properties to the eye and the loup. Its size — a remarkable 122.77 carats — only magnifies its command.

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Impressive unmounted Paraiba tourmaline, weighing 122.77 carats, Mozambique, no heat. Estimate: CHF335,000–530,000 / US$380,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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A glowing ruby between half moons

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Ruby and diamond ring, Burmese ruby weighing 10.69 carats, no heat. Estimate: CHF420,000–650,000 / US$475,000–740,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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The ruby’s power takes on a more delicate expression in this astonishing pinkish-red stone. The distinctive oval shape of the 10.69 carats unheated Burmese ruby exquisitely accents the captivating play of light across its surface and conveys a graceful air of femininity. Clasped securely by elegant gold claws and nestled between two half-moon diamonds, this ring’s tasteful design brings delight to the wearer and those around them.

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Ruby and diamond ring, Burmese ruby weighing 10.69 carats, no heat. Estimate: CHF420,000–650,000 / US$475,000–740,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Sapphires preferred

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Very fine sapphire and diamond ring, Kashmir sapphire weighing 7.10 carats, no heat. CHF880,000–1,325,000 / US$1,000,000–1,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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...this gemstone represents a superb example of why Kashmir has earned the status for being the source for sapphires to which all others are compared.
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\n—AGL Appendix Letter no. 1120259, 13 January 2022.
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While Van Cleef & Arpels is no stranger to legendary stones, to find a sapphire of such quality in a setting of such poise remains exceedingly rare. In its 7.10 carats of unheated saturated blue glory, this Kashmir sapphire stands alone, deserving special attention by even the most experienced gem lovers. Kashmir sapphires are highly coveted for their rarity and distinctive rich hue, reminiscent of the soft touch of velvet, but as this ring shows, they can achieve an even more rarified status when under eyes as discerning as Van Cleef & Arpels’.

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Peering through this remarkable stone’s high clarity and into the depths of its brilliant internal reflections is an experience like no other. To steal a glance at one’s hand while wearing it is to see the wonder of Mother Nature staring back at you with a smile.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Very fine sapphire and diamond ring, Kashmir sapphire weighing 7.10 carats, no heat. CHF880,000–1,325,000 / US$1,000,000–1,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.

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Discover More from The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV >

\n\n

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