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Auction 9 December 12pm EST
\n450 Park Avenue, New York (map)
\n
\nViewing 4-9 December
\nMonday-Saturday 10am-6pm
\nSunday 12pm-6pm

\n\n

Contact

\n\n

Jewels New York
\n+1 212 940 1378
\njewelrynewyork@phillips.com

\n\n

Susan Abeles

\n\n

Head of Department, Americas and Senior International Specialist

\n\n

+1 212 940 1383

\n\n

sabeles@phillips.com

\n\n

As part of our New York Jewels auction, world-renowned artisan Sevan Bıçakçı has donated a one-of-a-kind ring, in addition to a unique drawing of the piece and a private meeting with him. All proceeds from the sale of this lot will benefit the One Drop Foundation and its vital mission of ensuring sustainable access to safe water worldwide.

\n\n

Read our new online bidding guide (also available in Japanese, Traditional or Simplified Chinese)

\n","auctionDetailsSmall","New York Auction 9 December 2019","extraInfo","Susan Abeles
\nHead of Department, Americas and Senior International Specialist
\nNew York
\n+1 212 940 1383
","enableHighlightsView","enableOnlineCatalogue","endSale",true,"hideSoldLots","isChineseTranslate","isExhibition","isLiveAuction","isMixedAuction","makeLive","showAdvanceBidButton","showArtCollector","showBuyButton","showCatalogueDownloadLink","showInquireButton","showPrintCatalogueSection","showRegistrationLink","showSaleOffers","showSoldPrice","lots",[239,240,241,242,243,244,245,246,247,248,249,250,251,252,253,254,255,256,257,258,259,260,261,262,263,264,265,266,267,268,269,270,271,272,273,274,275,276,277,278,279,280,281,282,283,284,285,286,287,288,289,290,291,292,293,294,295,296,297,298,299,300,301,302,303,304,305,306,307,308,309,310,311,312,313,314,315,316,317,318,319,320,321,322,323,324,325,326,327,328,329,330,331,332,333,334,335,336,337,338,339,340,341,342,343,344,345,346,347,348,349,350,351,352,353,354,355,356,357,358,359,360,361,362,363,364,365,366,367,368,369,370,371,372,373,374,375,376,377,378,379,380,381,382,383,384,385,386,387,388,389,390,391,392,393,394,395,396,397,398,399,400,401,402,403,404,405,406,407,408,409,410,411,412,413,414,415,416,417,418,419,420,421,422,423,424,425,426,427,428,429,430,431,432,433,434,435,436,437,438,439,440,441,442,443,444,445,446,447,448,449,450,451,452,453,454,455,456,457,458,459,460,461,462,463],"articles",[161,162,163,164,165,166],"departments",[155],"auctionCurrency",{"_152":70,"_153":154},"totalLotCount",225,"auctionMobilityAuctionRowId","1-2B7PEJ","auctionUrl","https://www.phillips.com/auction/NY060319","currencyCode","currencySign","$",{"_156":157,"_158":159,"_160":56},"departmentId",4,"departmentName","Jewelry","departmentDisplayName",{"_167":230,"_169":56,"_170":231,"_16":232,"_173":233,"_175":234,"_177":178,"_179":180,"_181":235,"_183":180,"_185":236,"_187":237,"_189":238},{"_167":220,"_169":56,"_170":221,"_16":222,"_173":223,"_175":224,"_177":178,"_179":180,"_181":225,"_183":226,"_185":227,"_187":228,"_189":229},{"_167":210,"_169":56,"_170":211,"_16":212,"_173":213,"_175":214,"_177":178,"_179":180,"_181":215,"_183":216,"_185":217,"_187":218,"_189":219},{"_167":200,"_169":56,"_170":201,"_16":202,"_173":203,"_175":204,"_177":178,"_179":180,"_181":205,"_183":206,"_185":207,"_187":208,"_189":209},{"_167":191,"_169":56,"_170":192,"_16":193,"_173":194,"_175":195,"_177":178,"_179":180,"_181":196,"_183":157,"_185":197,"_187":198,"_189":199},{"_167":168,"_169":56,"_170":171,"_16":172,"_173":174,"_175":176,"_177":178,"_179":180,"_181":182,"_183":184,"_185":186,"_187":188,"_189":190},"coverUrl","https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/pag-113-bf99c608-5795-4c6a-a19d-466c45b62bc8_s600x0.jpg","section","summary","Just in time for the holiday season, we're highlighting a selection of jewels ranging from the restrained to the extravagant. ","Splurge vs. Steal: A Jewelry Gift Guide","body","

Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.
\nJewels & More Online Auction, 26 November - 11 December.

\n\n

For the third season running, Phillips' New York Jewels department will hold an online-only auction in conjunction with our live sale on 9 December. It's the perfect chance to treat yourself or someone you love with a jewel that will last a lifetime, whether you're in the market for something fun and practical or a showstopping collectible. Associate Specialist Anne Mock, GG, picked a variety of her favorites and explained how to get the same look for a little less.

\n\n

\n\n

Want to make a statement at your next holiday party? Look no further than these dazzling earrings from industry heavyweight Laurence Graff (Lot 205, Estimate: $ 50,000 - $70,000). On a budget? These cascading diamond chandelier drops (Lot 404, Estimate: $4,000 - $6,000) will still add just the right amount of sparkle.

\n\n

\n\n

If you like to mix and match your metals, then these two Italian-made bracelets fit the bill: a tri-colored bracelet by Bulgari (Lot 218: Estimate: $8,000 - $12,000) offers sleek sophistication, while a diamond and tri-colored gold bracelet has some more glitz at a lower price point (Lot 363, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000).

\n\n

\n\n

A brooch isn’t just something that your grandmother wears. When styled in the right way, it can be the perfect accessory to jazz up a blazer or scarf. The 5.38 carat unheated Burmese sapphire and diamond brooch, (Lot 17, Estimate: $50,000 - $80,000) makes a bold statement. For a more subtle look, try this Art Deco diamond brooch (Lot 311, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000).

\n\n

\n\n

What can we say? A gold watch is a staple for every woman’s collection – wear it casually with jeans or dress it up with a cocktail dress; regardless of attire, both the Breguet (Lot 175, Estimate: $8,000 - $12,000) and the Rolex (Lot 374, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000) are worthwhile investments.

\n\n

\n\n

The marquise-shaped diamond is named after the famed Madame de Pompadour’s perfect lips, as described by her lover, King Louis XV of France. If you’re in the market for a sensuous diamond ring, look no further than this 2.40 carat, D/VS1 diamond ring (Lot 34, Estimate: $15,000 - $25,000) or opt for a slightly smaller 1.12 carat, I/VS1 diamond ring (Lot 393, Estimate: $1,800 - $2,500).

\n\n

\n\n

Both light and sculptural, these earrings by Margherita Burgener (Lot 223, Estimate: $10,000 - $15,000) and JAR (Lot 382, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000) will be an instant conversation starter, adding dimension and modernity to your look.

\n\n

\n\n

Looking for a true collector’s item? Try on this beautiful Colombian emerald and diamond ring (Lot 27, Estimate: $8,000 - $12,000) and you won’t want to take it off. Want something fun and festive to dress up your digits this season? Our emerald and diamond ballerina ring is a real steal (Lot 414, Estimate: $1,500 - $2,500).

\n\n

\n\n

It’s always nice to have a pair of earrings that instantly elevates any outfit. To really turn up the glam, try these diamond and gold earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels (Lot 43, Estimate: $5,000 - $7,000). For a more sculptural effect, we recommend these gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. (Lot 344, Estimate: $1,500 - $2,500).

\n\n

\n\n

If you’re looking to make a bold statement, look no further than this masterfully-crafted coral and diamond bracelet by the Aletto Brothers (Lot 181, Estimate: $25,000 - $35,000). With a bit less bling, this Marina B bracelet (Lot 375, Estimate: $1,500 - $2,500) is an easy staple.

\n\n

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If you’re planning a tropical getaway this winter and looking for a light and easy accessory, both of these coral bead necklaces Lot 159, (Estimate: $6,000 - $9,000) and Lot 326, (Estimate: $2,000 - $3,000) will look great with a tan.

\n\n

\n\n

A pair of statement earrings is essential for the wardrobe of any fashionista. Looking to splurge? Try these yellow and colorless diamond floral earrings (Lot 157, Estimate: $7,000 - $9,000). Want the same look for a little less? We recommend these ‘Sunflower’ earrings by Valentin Magro (Lot 371, Estimate: $3,000 - $5,000).

\n\n

Viewing Information
\n 4-9 December 2019
\n450 Park Avenue, New York (map)
\nMonday-Saturday 10am-6pm
\nSunday 12pm-6pm

\n\n

\n","publishDate","2019-11-26T17:03:03.000000Z","coverPosX",50,"coverPosY",0,"articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/51520993/splurge-vs-steal-a-jewelry-gift-guide","displayOrder",5,"auctionEditorialID",715,"editorialID",827,"flocklerID",51520993,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/pag-134-0d7467db-f1de-47c0-964c-b2c3d5e907c3_s600x0.jpg","Graduate Gemologist Alexi Riggins details the resurgence of zircon in the fine jewels market.","Demystifying Zircon: A Fascinating Gemstone Comes to Auction","

A Zircon and Platinum Necklace. Lot 188 in Jewels, New York.

\n\n

By Alexi Riggins, Graduate Gemologist
\n
\nZircon is a brilliant, beautiful and fiery gemstone with a varied palette of colorless, yellow, green, red, orange, brown and blue. It is the oldest mineral at 4.4 billion years old, an age that coincides with the surface of the earth beginning to cool and crust, and it is found across six continents in metamorphic and sedimentary rocks. Despite its beauty, abundance and rich history, zircon has not reached the demand of more well-known stones like diamond and sapphire. While zircon has trended in jewelry, notably in the Victorian era and in the Art Nouveau designs of Louis Comfort Tiffany, its more unusual attributes make it an enigma to consumers.

\n\n

\n\n

\n
\nOne reason for the confusion comes from zircon's name itself. Scholars believe that the name derives from the Persian word zargun, meaning gold colored, or the Arabic word zarkun, meaning cinnabar or vermilion. Either possibility seems credible given zircon's color range. Even though the name has deep roots, zircon is often mistaken with the similarly named and more modern cubic zirconia (CZ). To further confusion, both stones possess great luster and fire, aptly suiting them as diamond simulants. Zircon is a more historical simulant source that gave way to other imitations mid-way through the twentieth century, whereas CZ entered the market in the early 1970s and is still a popular simulant today. Although both stones are chemically unique, their similar names, properties and uses in jewelry lead some buyers to believe that zircon is still an imitation diamond rather than a unique and fashionable gemstone in its own right.
\n
\nAnother puzzling attribute of zircon is that some stones contain trace amounts of uranium and thorium, which can break down the stone's crystal structure and change its properties over long periods of time. This process of irradiation is known as metamictization. Zircons that have suffered extensive damage are typically green and can have much lower specific gravity, refractive index and double refraction than those with stable crystal structures. Though this process is harmful to the stone, buyers should not worry about it posing health concerns to the wearer since the amount of radioactive elements is too low. Furthermore, the irradiation process in many metamict zircons can be reversed by heating the stone to high temperatures thus restoring its crystalline form.

\n\n

\n\n

Although zircon is sometimes mystifying to consumers, it is making a resurgence in the market. Its bold colors and strong dispersion make it a favorite among designers and can be seen in innovative and exquisite works by JAR, Hemmerle, Nicholas Varney and Lauren Adriana.
\n
\nLot 188 is a brilliant and well-matched electric blue zircon riviera necklace comprised of 37 stones, totaling over 160 carats. As plentiful as zircon is, its availability in large crystals is uncommon, making the center stone of 18.94 carats, with its high clarity and alluring shade of blue a rare and lovely example of the mineral.

\n\n

\n","2019-11-14T19:54:13.000000Z","https://www.phillips.com/article/50858523/demystifying-zircon-vivid-gemstone",713,800,50858523,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/pag-104-8a5cea77-6db6-4ed7-a8ff-93776f2d1bdc_s600x0.jpg","Jewelry historian Vivienne Becker sat down with the famed craftsman to find out more about his story, process and ongoing commitment to charity. ","Sevan Bıçakçı in Conversation with Vivienne Becker","

Jeweler Sevan Bıçakçı

\n\n

Just a gemstone’s throw from Istanbul’s famous Grand Bazaar, in an atelier overlooking a quiet cobbled street, goldsmith Sevan Bıçakçı and his dedicated team of specialist artisans hand-craft the extraordinary and esoteric jewels that are amongst today’s most lusted-after contemporary works of art.

\n\n

His name, Bıçakçı, means ‘Bladesmith”, telling both of his Armenian metalsmithing heritage and the story of Ottoman jeweled arts: his enduring inspiration. Single-handedly, Sevan has revitalized and contemporized ancient Byzantine and Ottoman arts and craft, many of which have been handed down through millennia but have languished in modern-day Turkey. Sevan’s story, imagination and ingenuity are all encapsulated in the impressive ring that he has so generously donated to this auction: 100% of the proceeds from the sale of the ring will go to One Drop, a charity that enables access to safe water and sanitation for some of the most deprived areas in the world.

\n\n

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Lot 151: Sevan Bıçakçı A Rock Crystal, Colored Diamond, Diamond, Gold and Silver ‘Oh God, Let it Rain’ Ring

\n\n

VIVIENNE BECKER: How did the collaboration with One Drop come about? When did you first get to know about the initiative?

\n\n

SEVAN BIÇAKÇI: Guy Laliberté, the founder of One Drop, was in my atelier in Istanbul a few years ago. What he achieved with Cirque du Soleil, I feel am trying to do in my own small way, namely with my jewelry pieces, trying to fit created worlds into each one of them. We are definitely from the same beautiful and lonely planet. The minute I heard about the initiative from Guy, I did not think twice about creating a piece for One Drop. This year will be my second time participating.

\n\n

VB: What is it about One Drop that particularly appeals to you and has fired your imagination?

\n\n

SB: It was not easy at all to achieve what I wanted in life, but in the end, I can only consider myself very lucky. My family was quite poor; however, our parents still had relatively good opportunities to raise us well. They could afford the essentials like food, water, shelter and education, so that we were able to think beyond the bare necessities of life, to think about love and joy. Too many people in this world do not have the chance to think about anything other than surviving. Access to water is indeed just the beginning for them. It is not a bad thing for us to feel guilty about this unjust situation. No one can choose where and into what circumstances they are born.

\n\n

VB: Can you tell us how you came up with the concept for this extraordinary ring?

\n\n

SB: Here in Istanbul, we miss the way it used to rain. I was very much inspired by the lyrics of Turkish composer Mahmud Ogul's song Yagdir Mevlam Su - "Oh Lord, let it rain" in English - a song from the '80s, a time when we could enjoy life in Istanbul without praying for rain or having to run away from it. The ring is about depicting this pleasant balance in nature. The drop-shaped rock crystals symbolize raindrops falling onto Hagia Sophia's gigantic dome, which is one of my greatest muses as a jewelry designer.

\n\n

VB: Does the ring use all of your signature techniques? Can you describe the intricacies of the creative and craft process involved in making this ring?

\n\n

SB: Maybe not all of them, like any other work of mine, but it does incorporate a reverse-engraved intaglio inside its rock crystal dome at the very center of the piece. When you look at it, you would see how close the dome comes to the inner surface of the stone. As usual, this involved many trials that did not yield results up to my standard, until eventually this ring was created.

\n\n

\n\n

An original sketch of the present work, to be included for the winning bidder.

\n\n

VB: How long did it take to make the ring, from the initial idea to the finished jewel?

\n\n

SB: Close to four months...

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VB: How many different artisans were involved in its creation?

\n\n

SB: A goldsmith, a diamond setter, a metal engraver, a gem polisher, a metal polisher and a sculptor.

\n\n

VB: For those who are not familiar with your work, could you perhaps explain your philosophy – what drives and enthralls you?

\n\n

SB: I believe that each piece of jewelry, especially a ring, has to be as unique as the person wearing it. I dedicate my time accordingly to the creation of one-of-a-kind jewels. Things and places that keep me happy now and hopeful about the future are inspiring, such as Istanbul with its historical role sheltering a rainbow of cultures and mother nature.

\n\n

VB: How would you say your style has evolved over the years since you first launched your own collection?

\n\n

SB: Craft techniques and materials have gradually become more intricate, very much like my conscience, and my muses. At this stage, I don't want anyone's mind to get polluted with feelings of conflict and hostility when she or he gets to see any work of mine. I can only crave the opposite.

\n\n

\n\n

Lot 151: Sevan Bıçakçı A Rock Crystal, Colored Diamond, Diamond, Gold and Silver ‘Oh God, Let it Rain’ Ring

\n\n

VB: What does jewelry mean today?

\n\n

SB: Probably the same meaning it has had since ancient times: The matter that is most essential to the individual wearer, a unique manifestation of one's values...

\n\n

VB: What are your plans, hopes and dreams for the future?

\n\n

SB: My plans are to further evolve my techniques and style in order to further enjoy what I do. Instead of dreaming big, I prefer to hope that all kids will be given a chance for a bright future.

\n\n

Learn more about the initiative at One Drop >

\n\n

\n","2019-11-14T20:26:33.000000Z","https://www.phillips.com/article/50855594/sevan-bicakci-in-conversation-with-vivienne-becker",3,700,801,50855594,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/ny060319-d-061b27d5-4503-4cb9-bc3d-80472a922200_s600x0.jpg","A brooch and pair of earrings in rubies and diamonds highlight the masterful craftsmanship synonymous with Alfredo Aletto and his family's business.","A Family Tradition: Aletto Brothers Craftsmanship","

Aletto Brothers A Ruby, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Brooch and a Pair of Ruby, Diamond, Platinum and Gold Earrings—both of which are one-of-a-kind. Lots 138 and 139 in Jewels, New York.

\n\n

by Anne Mock, GG, Associate Specialist

\n\n

From nineteenth-century Italy to present-day Florida, the Aletto family has been hand-crafting fine jewels for five consecutive generations. In 1889, the house's story began when Neapolitan Bartolomeo Aletto was commissioned to design and produce a piece of jewelry commemorating the completion of the Eiffel Tower at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. Bartolomeo's son, Raffaele, continued his father's legacy, working for many leading Italian jewelers of the day. The family later made their way across the Atlantic, settling first in Caracas, Venezuela in 1949, and then in New York City in the 1960s. Today, the company is based in Boca Raton, Florida, where Alfredo Aletto (Bartolomeo's great-grandson) and his four children run the company.

\n\n

\n
The house's story began when...Neapolitan Bartolomeo Aletto was commissioned to design and produce a piece of jewelry commemorating the completion of the Eiffel Tower.
\n

\n\n

While most modern jewelry houses have a dedicated crafts-person for each step of the fabrication process, Alfredo Aletto does it all. Even more remarkably, Aletto is a self-taught jeweler, who learned by experimenting with different techniques until he mastered them. Having only seen an 'invisible' setting once, he made up his mind to learn and master the technique. Once perfected, Aletto reached out to Van Cleef & Arpels, who had pioneered the method in the 1930s and introduced it to the American jewelry market. He met with Claude Arpels himself and was offered contract work for the iconic company in the mid-1980s.

\n\n

\n\n

Alfredo Aletto's workbench within his Boca Raton studio

\n\n

Today, 35 years later, Alfredo continues to craft jewelry using this exceptionally difficult technique. The glittering ruby and diamond flower brooch (lot 138) and pair of earrings (lot 139) are prime examples of his craftsmanship. Working from his own design and a parcel of calibrated gemstones, Alfredo first created the intricate framework of the piece, with a 'track' where the stones are invisibly set. He then cut, blocked, polished and grooved each individual stone to fit into a specific space in the frame—like a puzzle. This skill requires extensive calculation and extreme focus, remaining out of reach for most bench jewelers.

\n\n

\n
Each leaf on the flower brooch took roughly two weeks to set.
\n\n

\n

\n\n

\n\n

A one-of-a-kind ruby, diamond, platinum and gold brooch

\n\n

Each leaf on the flower brooch took roughly two weeks to set, for a total of seven weeks spent in setting alone. The brooch was then fully assembled with small, removable screws, allowing any potential repair work to be done without disrupting the rest of the piece. Each petal in the delicate flower earrings took approximately one week to set, resulting in a smooth surface of brilliantly interwoven color, lacking any visible prongs or metal.
\n
\nA true Renaissance man, Alfredo Aletto embodies the Old World tenant of a start-to-finish jeweler. This sets him and the company apart from other houses, allowing Aletto Brothers to create impeccably crafted and extremely personal works of wearable art.

\n\n

\n","2019-11-13T21:13:46.000000Z","https://www.phillips.com/article/50803611/aletto-brothers-craftsmanship-ruby-diamond-jewels",2,695,798,50803611,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/pag-152-dc1541aa-5eed-4611-8796-d36a4b56a024_s600x0.jpg","Known for their bold, colorful and distinctly Roman designs, Bulgari remains one of the marquee names in jewelry. ","All About Bulgari","

From Left: Lot 218, A Bulgari Tri-Colored Gold Bracelet;
\nLot 214, A Bulgari Diamond, Amethyst, Rubellite and Gold 'Diva's Dream' Necklace.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

\n\n

The house of Bulgari is one of the world’s most distinguished jewelers, recognized for their superb craftsmanship, style and distinct aesthetic. Founded by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari in 1884, this family business flourished over the decades by creating elegant jewels that drew inspiration from Greek and Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and works by the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. Today, as in yesteryear, traditional themes still pulse through modern designs, paying homage to Rome and displaying a sensitivity to the modern woman.

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Lot 214: A Bulgari Diamond, Amethyst, Rubellite and Gold 'Diva's Dream' Necklace.
\nEstimate: $20,000 - 30,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

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Bulgari’s jewels are successful in merging the past and present, combining architectural elements with a modern sensibility. The feminine and colorful ‘fan’ motifs in the ‘Divia’s Dream’ necklace, lot 214, draw inspiration from Rome’s mosaic Caracalla Baths, constructed in 217 AD. Through this design, Bulgari has subliminally captured a part of ancient Rome and the important role these baths provided in a social and religious place – to cleanse the soul and body. The theme and the imagery that it inspires are very much a part of the Bulgari marque.

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Lot 215: A Bulgari Tanzanite, Diamond, Emerald, Turquoise and Gold Necklace.
\nEstimate: $35,000 - 55,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

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The tanzanite, diamond, turquoise and emerald necklace, lot 215, illustrates modern Bulgari at its best with its infusion of color, movement and design. This jewel is playful and sensual, artfully utilizing conical turquoise and pave diamond links, embellished with circular and emerald rondelle accents, telling a story of life and luxury. The gorgeous tumbled tanzanite, organic in form, juxtaposed against more geometric pieces, draws attention with this contrast of shape and size, leading to a tassel of conical links with gem-set terminals. This necklace aptly represents the modern women of Rome: feminine, playful, sensuous, colorful and strong.

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Lot 213: A Bulgari Gold 'Parentesi' Necklace and Pair of Earrings. Estimate: $8,000 - 12,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

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The Parentesi collection, see lot 213, was Bulgari’s first line of modular jewelry and debuted in 1982. This design was first offered without adornment, making it easy to wear. At the time, no one imagined how popular this geometric pattern, inspired by the interlocking travertine stones that lined the pavement of ancient Rome, would become. Met with great success, the Parentesi jewels were later enhanced with patterns of diamonds and colorful stones. Today, while the proportions and angles have been updated, this collection remains at the cornerstone of the house's high jewelry.

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Lot 219: A Bulgari Green Beryl, Ruby and Diamond 'Ring' Bracelet. Estimate: $15,000 - 25,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

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The ‘Ring’ bracelet, lot 219, was produced in a limited edition of only three, making it exceedingly rare. As is expected of Bulgari, color plays a strong role in this whimsical design. What is unusual about this design is not only the color combination or the suggestion of a ring, but that it is sculptural, commanding and powerful, defying the classical idea of what a bracelet should be.

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For more than 100 years, Bulgari has been described as a symbol of excellence. They have stayed true to their original aesthetic by honoring the past in all of their works, as illustrated in the luxurious, colorful and majestic Bulgari jewels in this sale.

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\n","2019-11-18T19:14:47.000000Z","https://www.phillips.com/article/50932529/bulgari-jewelry-new-york-auction",1,702,809,50932529,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/fc-3c8816e8-fa1c-431d-99ca-659d637cf81e_s600x0.jpg","Incredibly rare and exceedingly difficult to cut, blue diamonds rank among the most prized gemstones.","An Exceptional Tiffany Blue Diamond ","

Tiffany & Co. An Important Fancy Intense Diamond and Platinum Ring. Estimate $1,500,000 - 2,500,000. Jewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

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by Susan Abeles, Head of Department, Americas, and Senior International Specialist

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Blue diamonds are among the rarest colored diamonds in nature. This exceptional blue diamond was chosen by Tiffany & Co. as a "stone of distinction," masterfully cut to maximize its inherent beauty.

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Understanding how finite the market is for blue diamonds, Tiffany carefully procured this 3.02 carat fancy intense gem. Most likely, this diamond was re-cut from their initial purchase so as to conform to their high standards — most notably, quality. Tiffany prides itself on delivering the finest gemstones, applying the most rigorous guidelines to produce the ideal cut. It is no small feat that they have imbued this blue diamond with optimum brilliance, fire and scintillation, nor is it by chance that they have determined that the stone's natural beauty can best be captured in their signature mounting. On every level, this diamond, this ring and its signature are all exceptional.

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Blue diamonds were first sourced from the legendary Golconda mines in India, which are now depleted. 17th-century French explorer and gemstone merchant Jean-Baptiste Tavernier recorded these finds in The Six Voyages during his travels to Turkey, Persia and the East-Indies. Tavernier is also known for the discovery of the 'Tavernier Blue', which was re-cut and sold as the 'French Blue' to Louis XIV in 1668. This diamond was later stolen and re-cut yet again, surfacing nearly two centuries later in the collection Henry Philip Hope as his most prized gemstone. Today, the 'Hope Diamond' is considered one of the most famous blue diamonds in the world, residing at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C.

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In recent years, the main source of blue diamonds has been the mines in South Africa. In September, the Cullinan Mine produced a beautiful 20.08 carat rough, an exceptional find. One must understand that it will take months of study before a window is cut, allowing the lapidary to determine how and where the color and inclusions sit within the crystal. The final cutting and polishing of the stone may take a year or more before a faceted gem is achieved. While other areas such as Sierra Leone, Borneo and Brazil occasionally produce blue diamonds, these exceptionally colored diamonds are only found in a few areas, making them more valuable.

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Today, the 'Hope Diamond' is considered one of the most famous blue diamonds in the world.
\n

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For most blue diamonds, their color is caused by trace amounts of the element boron, which substitutes some of the carbon atoms in the diamond's crystal lattice. Unlike other diamonds, which form in Earth's upper mantel at approximately 90-140 miles beneath the surface, blue diamonds form even deeper in the lower mantel at depths between 250-400 miles. Recent studies indicate that boron, which dissolves in water, settles at the bottom of the ocean and, through subduction, when the tectonic plates collide, is carried below the mantel when one plate sinks. This process moves boron to a lower depth, suggesting that the water cycle goes far deeper than previously thought.

\n\n

Other aspects that make blue diamonds rare are the challenges involved in cutting the rough. Unlike most diamonds, which form as octahedrons or dodecahedrons, blue diamond crystals are typically asymmetrical. Additionally, care must be given to maintain color, especially if the rough contains color zoning. Blue diamonds without any modifying color are indeed rare, with only a small fraction of every diamond graded by the GIA assigned a 'natural blue' diamond.

\n\n

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Lot 151: Sevan Bıçakçı A Rock Crystal, Colored Diamond, Diamond, Gold and Silver ‘Oh God, Let it Rain’ Ring

An original sketch of the present work, to be included for the winning bidder.

Lot 151: Sevan Bıçakçı A Rock Crystal, Colored Diamond, Diamond, Gold and Silver ‘Oh God, Let it Rain’ Ring

Alfredo Aletto's workbench within his Boca Raton studio

A one-of-a-kind ruby, diamond, platinum and gold brooch

Lot 214: A Bulgari Diamond, Amethyst, Rubellite and Gold 'Diva's Dream' Necklace.\nEstimate: $20,000 - 30,000.\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 215: A Bulgari Tanzanite, Diamond, Emerald, Turquoise and Gold Necklace.\nEstimate: $35,000 - 55,000.\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 213: A Bulgari Gold 'Parentesi' Necklace and Pair of Earrings. Estimate: $8,000 - 12,000.\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 219: A Bulgari Green Beryl, Ruby and Diamond 'Ring' Bracelet. Estimate: $15,000 - 25,000.\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 214: A Bulgari Diamond, Amethyst, Rubellite and Gold 'Diva's Dream' Necklace.
\nEstimate: $20,000 - 30,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 215: A Bulgari Tanzanite, Diamond, Emerald, Turquoise and Gold Necklace.
\nEstimate: $35,000 - 55,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 213: A Bulgari Gold 'Parentesi' Necklace and Pair of Earrings. Estimate: $8,000 - 12,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.

Lot 219: A Bulgari Green Beryl, Ruby and Diamond 'Ring' Bracelet. Estimate: $15,000 - 25,000.
\nJewels at Phillips New York, 9 December.