及大錶冠洋溢著包豪斯風格和低調的功能性。腕錶直徑為30毫米,具備型號96的關鍵特徵即纖薄的圓形錶殼和簡潔的平面錶圈及錐形錶耳。腕錶的原廠錶盤保存完好,錶殼保持了原廠完美的品相,弧形錶耳厚實勻稱。精細打造的按扣錶殼內在底蓋錶殼編號下方刻有錶殼製作商的專屬標記:「Poinçon de Maître」(被稱為「日內瓦印記」)。這個首次註冊於1934年9月8日,其內刻有「4」的鑰匙標記,是專為日內瓦錶殼大師Antoine Gerlach使用;因為受瑞士鐘錶聯合會La Fédération Horlogère Suisse 的監管,所有的貴金屬錶殼都必須印上各錶殼製造商獨有的編號標記。Antoine Gerlach製作的錶殼時常出現在型號96中。在他整個職業生涯裡,被認為其設計影響了百達翡麗另一個史詩級的經典型號3448萬年曆月相腕錶。
位於錶盤上百達翡麗簽名下方的兩個窗口所顯示的是法文日曆,日期為VEN MAI 19即5月19日,星期五。它的起源和腕錶內底蓋上保存完好的FAB SUISSE銘文與它的法國鉑金面具印記相呼應。該「面具印記」(在美學上採用希臘男性頭像的形象)為1912年設立,表明進口的鉑金產品至少達到950標準。1912年到1926年之間所採用的是輪廓形的面具印記;而從1926年至今使用的是矩形的面具印記(與此枚腕錶一致)。印有「V」來作為區域檢驗辦公室標誌的這個希臘字母,代表法國東部的安納馬斯。而Guillermin 是法國唯一一家百達翡麗進口商,零售店位於法國旺多姆廣場,由它進口的時計以其橢圓形的J G & Cie (Jean Guillermin)印記為標誌。除此之外該腕錶還有三個印記:一個位於左上錶耳後面,另外兩個位於內殼的邊緣。
從《百達翡麗博物館藏品二》可以看到該錶盤的原始模樣。鉑金錶殼,扇形錶盤有燒青字體的長簽名「PATEK PHILIPPPE CO GENÈVE」。這種硬質琺瑯的燒青字製造技術是首先將字母刻在錶盤上,然後塗上黑色琺瑯,再用火燒加熱錶盤使其達到外觀的模樣。從與月份日期平衡的錶盤外圍開始,一日中的時刻被繪製在帶有白色刻度和黑色輪廓的緞面玫瑰色圓環上,而藍鋼指針則清晰地標示著月份。位於簽名上方的是一個倒置的金色月相,恰似橫跨寧靜的夜藍天空。一對玫瑰金柳葉指針顯示時間的流逝,與錶盤上的裝飾和諧共處。因此,這枚腕錶永久地證明了皇帝的好奇心——以及他交予他最親近的僕人來探究這枚珍貴腕錶的信任。
製造商: Patek Philippe 年份: 1937 型號: 96QL 機芯編號: 198’299 錶殼號碼: 294’462 型號名稱: Calatrava 材料: Platinum 機芯: Manual, 11’’’ Victorin Piguet ebauche, jewelled 錶帶/ 錶鏈: Crocodile 錶扣: Stainless steel pin buckle engraved AW 尺寸: 30mm diameter 簽名: Case, dial and movement signed 配件: Delivered with the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming its date of manufacture of the present timepiece in 1929 and its subsequent date of sale 6th October 1937. 文學: The Patek Philippe Ref. 96QL with roulette dial is prominently illustrated in Patek Philippe Watches Volume II published by Patek Philippe Museum, p. 282
文學
The Patek Philippe Ref. 96QL with roulette dial is prominently illustrated in Patek Philippe Watches Volume II published by Patek Philippe Museum, p. 282
Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.
Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.