製造商: Audemars Piguet 年份: 1994 型號: 25636SP 機芯編號: 391'011 錶殼號碼: D42001.16/25 型號名稱: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 材料: Stainless steel and platinum 機芯: Automatic, cal 2120/2800, 38 jewels 錶帶/ 錶鏈: Stainless steel and platinum Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm 錶扣: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp 尺寸: 39mm Diameter 簽名: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed 配件: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet extract from register. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo co-signed Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Attestation.
Following the presentation of its first perpetual calendar Royal Oak model in 1984, Audemars Piguet followed up with an openworked version in 1986 including a sapphire caseback. Reference 25636 was in production until 1997 and made in 60 pieces in steel, 156 pieces in yellow gold, 6 pieces in pink gold, 41 pieces in platinum, 24 pieces in pink gold and platinum, and 25 pieces in steel and platinum, for a total of 312 examples.
The present example is one of the scarcest combinations of this reference as it features a steel case with platinum bezel and platinum central links on the bracelet. As proudly declared on the back, only 25 pieces in this configuration ever left Audemars Piguet's workshop, of which this current example is no. 16.
While the fact that this reference is the first openwork Royal Oak model will appeal to the “historian collectors” and its rarity to the “relic hunters” of the collecting community, the looks of this variation not only set it apart from its peers, but also has universal appeal. While the other variations of the reference usually feature a brushed bezel, this version mounts a mirror-polished bezel (a somewhat recurring characteristic of pieces with platinum bezels, such as ref. 15202IP - see lot 74). This detail dramatically alters the look of the watch, and is the opposite of what is regularly found on the Royal Oak, the brushed bezel being a nearly universal characteristic of the model.
Not only extremely rare, the present piece is also very well preserved.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.