Our final live auction of the fall 2024 season, the New York Watch Auction: XI, takes place on December 7-8, at our Manhattan headquarters. The auction includes 180 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it’s one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll highlight several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next few weeks, including the watches highlighted in this article.
– By Logan Baker
Philippe Dufour's journey to becoming one of the most respected independent watchmakers alive was nothing short of extraordinary.
After spending years working for names like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, and dedicating himself to restoring antique timepieces for auction houses, Dufour had a revelation that would ultimately redefine his path and the boundaries of modern watchmaking.
In a field already crowded with established brands, Dufour knew he had to do something distinctively special. And in 1992, he did just that, presenting the world’s first Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch.
It’s this spirit that brings us to the present moment, as Dufour’s unique, one-of-a-kind Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch No. 07, an extraordinary piece housed in a white gold case with an open sapphire dial, is set to go under the hammer at Phillips in New York this December.
Grande and Petite Sonnerie timepieces are some of the most technically demanding watches to create. The complex sonnerie complication chimes the hours and quarters automatically, in the grand sonnerie mode at each quarter-hour, and only on the hour in the petite sonnerie mode.
Dufour had already gained expertise in crafting five such pocket watches for Audemars Piguet, but shrinking this intricate mechanism into a wristwatch, would push him to new heights.
And so, after three years of design, construction, and testing, Dufour introduced the world to the first Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatch in 1992, encased in yellow gold and finished with an elegant grand feu enamel dial. Then, in 1999, he pushed boundaries further with a version featuring a sapphire crystal dial – a daring choice that revealed the intricate architecture of the movement not just from the back, but also through the dial, allowing the watch to speak for itself, showcasing its inner beauty from every angle.
Eight examples of this model exist, each with its own unique features and nuances. No. 07, however, stands alone. This watch combines the early, intricate hinged hunter caseback design from the initial run with a sapphire crystal “open” dial, offering a view into the movement through the case front—a first and the only configuration of its kind.
This design is remarkable not just for its rarity, but for the unique and modern aesthetic it brings to Dufour’s otherwise classical design language. The pink-gold, delicately applied markers stand out against the sapphire dial, creating a strikingly modern look that sets this watch apart from any other Dufour creation.
The watch's hands, each with a subtle, curvaceous shape and an arrow tip that complements the hour markers, depart from Dufour’s typical use of classic Breguet or sword hands. Here, Dufour has opted for something that enhances legibility against the exposed movement and gives the watch a distinct, almost avant-garde touch, yet in a way that feels fully at home in a Dufour.
Philippe Dufour’s hallmark has always been his attention to detail.
This watch, like all of his works, is finished with a level of detail that is as much an homage to traditional Swiss watchmaking as it is a testament to Dufour’s exceptional talent. The movement of No. 07 is decorated with parallel Geneva stripes, anglage with deep interior angles, and black-polished steel components – all applied meticulously by hand. The gilded gears, the bridges’ sharply defined edges, and even the recessed countersinks have all received his painstaking finishing techniques.
Philippe Dufour’s Grande & Petite Sonnerie wristwatches are already legendary, but No. 07—this singular piece combining the early hinged caseback architecture with the transparency of a sapphire dial—represents a once-in-a-lifetime convergence of Dufour’s design philosophies, technical prowess, and artisanal finish.
Phillips has the honor of presenting this extraordinary watch to the public for the first time since it was sold directly by Dufour in 2016.
No. 07’s provenance, having been in the possession of its original owner since it left Dufour’s workshop, only enhances its allure. It is preserved in immaculate condition, complete with its original certificate and presentation box – a tangible link to the artisan’s hands and to the heritage of traditional Swiss watchmaking.
A watch like this stands as a trophy of modern watchmaking, a testament to what’s possible when an artist works without compromise, and a piece that embodies the legacy of one of watchmaking’s living legends.
With this remarkable watch, Dufour’s vision and uncompromising standards are on full display, making No. 07 an ultimate prize for the world’s most distinguished collectors.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips New York Watch Auction: XI catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
Up-and-Coming Independent Watchmakers To Know in the Geneva Watch Auction: XX
Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Watch Auction: XX
A Round-Up of 14 Manual-Wind Rolex Daytonas in the Geneva Watch Auction: XX