Our first live auctions of fall 2024 season, PHILLIPS RELOADED: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999, and the Geneva Watch Auction: XX, take place on November 8, 9, and 10, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. The auctions include more than 195 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think they're some of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next month, including the watches highlighted in this article.
Lot 187: A Circa 1963 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 'Double T Swiss T' Ref. 6239 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: CHF 100,000 - 200,000
Tiffany To, Head of Sale, Geneva
My favorite lot in Geneva Watch Auction XX is lot 187, the reference 6239 with “Double -T Swiss T- “ indication because it is the ultimate Rolex nerd watch. It not only has a double “-T Swiss T- “ indication at 6 o’clock, but it even features the rare ivory grainé dial with black graphics that can only ve found in very early models. Such small minutiae are a Rolex nerd’s dream, and it gives an inner peeking into the working and minds of Rolex when creating new dial and reference variants. As an even nicer touch, it has its original guarantee, literature and the luminous dots are a beautiful “pumpkin” tone.
Lot 152: A 1958 Patek Philippe Amagnetic Ref. 3417 in Stainless Steel
Estimate: CHF 50,000 - 100,000
Marcello de Marco, Senior International Specialist
The Patek Philippe Amagnetic is a model that always fascinated me. It represents one of those rare instances where the brand went completely outside their “comfort zone”. The model is undeniably a tool watch, built with professional usage in mind and thus sporting a list of technical devices meant to achieve magnetic insulation of the movement. The case as well is practical, streamlined and devoid of elaborate architectures, but it still manages to convey the Patek Philippe finesse thanks to the grooves present where the lugs join the case.
A mind bending reference, and the present piece is offered complete of its original papers - making it one of my favourites in this sale.
Lot 191: A 1962 Breguet Empire in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: CHF 30,000 - 60,000
Arthur Touchot, International Head of Digital Strategy, Specialis
Continuing with Breguet, and a model I've highlighted before, I’ve picked the present Empire. Powered by the beautifully hand-finished Peseux 260, this stunning dress watch is traditionally paired with a leather strap, but here, it features an intriguing yellow gold bracelet crafted by Breguet. One of the great pleasures of owning a vintage Breguet is the deep dive into its history. The brand’s meticulous archives and detailed Certificates offer a treasure trove of information. In this case, they confirm the watch was sold on May 23, 1962, for 1,800 French Francs, and even reveal the identity of the original owner—though you’ll have to own it to uncover that final detail!
Lot 111: A 1980 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 2499/100 in 18k Yellow Gold and in Virtually 'New-Old-Stock' Condition
Estimate: CHF 500,000 - 1,000,000
Clément Finet, Watchmaker, Senior Watch Specialist
I suspect there are many ways of collecting… I say « I suspect » as, I have to admit, I’m not always very open minded about these things… That said, one has to admit that not everyone can collect at a “millionaire level”… and that obviously makes a huge difference at the end of the day… So, for the purpose of the present demonstration, let’s just say everyone reading these lines has those kind of means…
Now that everyone is a millionaire, my pick for this auction would have to be the “NOS” 2499 (lot 111)…
A 2499 is such an “obvious choice” that most people would probably argue that it needs no explanation… I would respectfully disagree with that in the sense that no reference, no matter how prestigious, is an “automatic winner” in my eyes… Believe me, a good collector has to be way more picky than that!
As a specialists, I have no other choice than to be particularly picky when it comes to choosing the best watches for my clients because I know that at the end of the day, you are never buying a mere “reference” but a unique physical object... And it better be the best YOUR money can buy…
The 2499 I’ve picked for this sale clearly falls in the “Trophy Category” league. Of course, it is inherently rare but what truly makes it special is its immaculate condition (and unique set of accessories). Its incredible Quality make it the touch stone for all 2499 (4th series). How awesome is it to own a watch by which all others in its kind will be henceforth judged… I’ll never know… How about you?
Lot 145: A Circa 1925 Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Made for 'A l'Emeraude' in 18k White Gold
Estimate: CHF 50,000 - 100,000
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
Few vintage wristwatches garner as much respect and admiration from collectors as Audemars Piguet’s vintage calendar models. Due to the brand’s limited production, these watches rank among the rarest and most coveted complicated vintage timepieces from any manufacturer. Between 1924 and 1967, Audemars Piguet produced only 176 non-perpetual calendar watches, a remarkably small number.
This production is divided into two distinct phases, each marked by different movements. The first phase, exemplified by the present watch, spans from 1924 to 1954 and predominantly features the caliber 10GHSM (with one early exception: the very first calendar watch used the caliber 10HPVM). The second phase, starting in 1954, introduced the caliber 9/10RSQ. This particular white gold example from the highly sought-after family of calendar watches has been fully restored by Audemars Piguet’s Heritage department, showcasing its beauty and craftsmanship. The dial, with Breguet numerals, is now in pristine condition and highlights a unique feature of the timepiece: the absence of the Audemars Piguet name on the dial, replaced by the signature of the retailer, “A l’Emeraude,” a historic Lausanne-based jeweler still in operation. Interestingly, this characteristic is also found on the 10HPVM model, which has a similarly shaped white gold case and a comparable dial (bearing the retailer Gubelin's signature), though with painted dauphine numerals instead of applied Breguet numerals.
Even more intriguing is the movement, which is signed by A l’Emeraude rather than Audemars Piguet. This reflects a common practice of the early 20th century, where companies like Audemars Piguet were commissioned to create watches for retailers who would sell them under their own branding—a fascinating insight into the watchmaking industry of that era.
As one of the most unique examples in one of the rarest and most desirable lines of calendar wristwatches, this piece is sure to captivate even the most seasoned collectors.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XX catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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