Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is a proud sponsor of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), one of the most influential horological associations in the world. The Horological Society of New York is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education, and Phillips is thrilled to once again host the organization's annual charity auction, with all proceeds going toward supporting the HSNY's goals.
– By Logan Baker
Watches, whether designed for the wrist or the pocket, have almost exclusively come in a single shape: round.
A number of fashion-forward watchmakers challenged horology’s annular orthodoxy in the 20th century, introducing offbeat and unusual case designs into production. Cartier is arguably the most famous of these brands, a legacy of atypical design that continues to draw in collectors today.
There’s an even more exclusive way in which a small group of watchmakers have broken with circular convention. The most talented brands and watchmakers introduced new movements in different shapes to match these new case creations. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre were all early practitioners of the so-called “form movements” – and many of today’s leading independent watchmakers have joined their ranks.
Laurent Ferrier, F.P. Journe, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, and numerous other small-scale independent luxury watch brands have experimented with this unique genre. Not to be forgotten, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre also continue to develop in this arena. Here, we highlight a small selection of our favorite wristwatches with “shaped” or “form” movements from the 21st century.
The Laurent Ferrier Bridge One
Parting from its usual smooth pebble-like cases, the Bridge One features a rectangular-shaped case with distinct curves that retains the DNA of the firm with strong art deco vibes. Inspired by Passerelle de l'Ile in Geneva, the case is indeed shaped like a bridge illustrated via its arched case design. The Passerelle de l'Ile in Geneva was completed in 1876 and designed as a pedestrian bridge to cross the fast-flowing waters of the River Rhone. The same inspiration behind the unique collaboration between Laurent Ferrier and Urwerk for Only Watch 2017, the Arpal One.
While The Inspiration Behind The Case is Nothing Short of Spectacular, The Movement (LF107.01) WAS Specifically Modified and Re-Shaped from An EXISTINUUNU Al Calendar Movement to Fit The Rectangular Case without the Annual Calendar Module, Basically, Same Barrel, Same Gear train and same escapement. The manual-winding LF107.01 caliber features a Swiss lever escapement, beats at 3Hz and has a comfortable power reserve of 80 hours. The model was released with two variants both in stainless steel one with a white enamel dial and the other with a slate gray dial.
The Patek Philippe 10 Days Tourbillon Ref. 5101P
First launched in 2003, the Patek Philippe ref. 5101 is defined by its distinctively large but elegant stepped case, reminiscent of historical timepieces from the Art Deco era. The platinum variant was discontinued in 2009 to make way for the pink gold siblings. The understated tourbillon design was well-received but rendered unusual compared to its peers at the time it was introduced. A quintessential Patek Philippe design, the overall aesthetic is discreet and may appear to be a time-only wristwatch at first glance. Luckily, the sapphire caseback invites its wearer to have a peek at the beautiful architecture within, highlighting its tourbillon carriage which subtly rotates on an axis.
A mechanical marvel, the ref. 5101 is fitted with two complications which is no easy feat within the confines of a rectangular movement and case, due to insufficient room. The manual winding cal. TO 28-20 REC 10J PS features two tandem mainspring barrels with 240 hours, or 10 days, of energy storage capacity and a tourbillon precision comprising 72 individual components.
The Roger Smith Series 1
In the late 1990, Smith joined Daniels as an apprentice to work on the Millennium wristwatches Daniels was to make. In the early 2001 Smith decided to set out on his own and create his own wristwatch. Impressed by the Arkade presented by the newly revived A. Lange & Söhne that housed a rectangular movement, Smith decided to create a rectangular case housing a rectangular movement.
And so the Series 1 was born, heavily inspired by Daniels' work. It displays an intricate guilloché dial, a retrograde date, and a rectangular movement with a typical English finish, with frosted and gilded plates, gold chatons, and heat colored screws. Of the nine rectangular Series 1s that were made, three of them were part of the “ONELY” series commissioned by celebrated London jeweler Theo Fennell.
The Fennell logo is placed at 12 and had his name engraved on the main plate. The present watch is the only Series 1 in white gold made, making it truly unique. To the best of our research, the Roger Smith Series 1 “Theo Fennel” sold during the Geneva Watch Auction: XIII was the first to appear at an international auction house.
The Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
One of the coolest – and most quickly forgotten about – watch releases of the past few years was Bulgari's Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon and its remarkable caliber BVL150, the smallest tourbillon produced today – by anyone, anywhere.
The manual-wind movement is executed in the shape of a snake's head, a departure from standard Serpenti models from Bulgari that will typically feature a round mechanical movement or a quartz one. The caliber BVL150 measures just 22mm x 18mm and the caliber is 3.65mm thick (the tourbillon cage is 10.88mm in diameter), a feat in miniaturization that surpasses the previous record set in 1945.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The Reverso is known far and wide for its unique swiveling case design, originally designed to keep the watch's crystal from turning to shrapnel on the wrists of British polo-playing imperialists in colonial India in the early 1930s.
Less discussed is the fact that the Reverso is likely the most well-known watch in the world to incorporate a shaped rectangular movement. Outside of select small-production watches, Cartier has historically opted to place simple round movements in its famous form watches, such as the Santos and Tank, which leaves the Reverso at the top of the mountain in terms of popular watches with non-round mechanical movements.
You'll even find a shaped movement in every mechanical Reverso available from Jaeger-LeCoultre today, even including the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched earlier this year at Watches & Wonders 2023.
Honorable Mention: A. Lange & Söhne Arkade and Cabaret, Lang & Heyne Georg, Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone, ring watches, RGM Caliber 20, Bell & Ross, Corum Golden Bridge, Chanel Calibre 3, H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp, Patek Philippe Gondolo 5098, Rolex Cellini Prince, Audemars Piguet Millenary, Cartier Crash ref. 3740, Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Hebdomadaire, and most Daniel Roth watches
You can learn more about shaped movements and bid on the pictured Laurent Ferrier Bridge One right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About The Horological Society Of New York
Founded in 1866, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) is one of the oldest continuously operating horological associations in the world. Today, HSNY is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology through education. Members are a diverse mix of watchmakers, clockmakers, executives, journalists, auctioneers, historians, salespeople and collectors, reflecting the rich nature of horology in New York City.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade working in watch-focused media, reporting on every aspect of the industry. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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