– Selected by Logan Baker
The final PHILLIPS Hong Kong auction taking place this season wasn't The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale or the ongoing Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVI – it won’t even exclusively be focused on watches.
Taking place on Thursday, May 25, the “Disruptors” auction is a multi-category evening sale that brings together our 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Design, and Watches departments together in a single catalog.
Disruptors is the third auction PHILLIPS has curated in partnership with TK Mak – founder of Blackbird Watch Manual, Blackbird Automotive Journal, and a member of the Advisory Board for Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo – following the success of Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 and SPORTS. The 62 lots that make up the sale range from art pieces by figures such as Andy Warhol, Anish Kapoor, KAWS, Takashi Murakami, and Yayoi Kusami, to a selection of 20 different wristwatches that were selected for their groundbreaking qualities.
Whether it’s the toolish excellence displayed by a vintage Rolex Submariner or Daytona, or the avant-garde aestheticism Cartier has brought to the table in watches like the Crash and Tank Américaine, the 20 watches offer an excellent range of watches fit for collectors of all backgrounds and interests. Read on to discover a few of the top lots and highlight watches included in Disruptors, or click here to explore the complete catalog.
Disruptors, An Evening Sale of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Design and Watches, takes place inside our new Asia headquarters in Hong Kong, on the groundfloor of the WKCDA Tower Cultural District, in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The sale begins at 6:30 PM HKT, on Thursday, May 25, 2023.
Lot 303: A Circa 1958 Rolex Submariner Ref. 6536/1
Debuted in 1955, the Rolex Submariner ref. 6536/1 succeeded the ref. 6536 and remained in production until 1959. Today, this model is one of the most in-demand vintage Submariner references thanks to its modern aesthetics and divine proportions. Framed in a robust stainless steel 37mm Oyster case, the ref. 6536/1 is distinguished by its small crown that measures only 6mm, comparatively more petite against the ref. 6538’s “Big Crown” that is 8mm in diameter.
Bearing a 398 thousand serial, the present example is from circa 1958 and is offered in excellent overall condition, boasting a beautifully preserved case with crisp and desirable bevels, not to mention strong and profound lugs.
Beautifully preserved, the black lacquered dial on this watch is complemented by prominent gilt print and fetches a high radium reading under a Geiger counter. The luminous material on the dial has aged beautifully, exhibiting a distinct "speckled" glow when exposed to UV light, which further enhances the vintage appeal of this timepiece. Notably, the lumed marker at 6 o'clock is much brighter than the other luminous plots, showing off yet another desirable trait collectors seek on Submariner dials from this era.
Lot 304: Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ref. 5207P-001
In the realm of fine watchmaking, there has been many great innovations, craftsmanship and heritage. In one specific spectrum of them all, many have tried to master though only a few can truly master – the minute repeater, considered one of the most complicated to craft and are prized possessions of esteemed collectors. Patek Philippe is no stranger when it comes to the illustrious chiming watch and is rightfully regarded by most as the don of repeating timepieces.
In the 1850s, Patek Philippe created their very first minute repeating pocket watches. For years to come, the firm has already secured the position of being the best in class for these chiming timepieces. Today, the new breed of Patek Philippe minute repeating timepieces is on a whole new level garnering once again a loyal following with the quest to acquire the best with a fruitful selection developed over the years with a diverse range of complications offered.
Released in 2008, the ref. 5207 was at the time of its launch the top three most complicated wristwatches ever produced by the firm, developed over a 5-year period by Patek Philippe’s finest watchmakers and engineers. Featuring a minute repeater and a tourbillon with an instantaneous perpetual calendar with leap year, day/night indication and moon phases all in a 41mm diameter case, the reference is simply stunning. With three apertures on the top of the dial indicating day, date and month, the legibility is further enhanced through a perfectly symmetrical dial layout. With moon phases at six o’clock and an additional two apertures one on each side indicating day/night and leap years, it is an easy to read and charming Grand Complication timepiece.
Powered by the firm’s in-house cal. R TO 27 PS QI, the impressive movement is composed of 549 individual parts with an accuracy of -1/+2 seconds per day. It is believed that only 10 examples of the reference are produced annually making them extremely rare timepieces.
The present ref. 5207P-001 cased in platinum delivers precise striking of the gong with a melodious chime and terrific quality. The watch is furthermore coupled with a very distinctive golden brown dial and exquisitely engraved casebands. The platinum version of ref. 5207 is now discontinued, making this highly complex wristwatch very exclusive and extremely desirable. Only 15 examples have surfaced on the market so far. Preserved in outstanding condition, the present watch is complete with all its original accessories.
Lot 313: A Circa 2021 Cartier Tank Asymétrique Ref. WGTA0044
Making its important debut in 1936, the Tank Asymétrique was born amidst some of the most exciting times of watchmaking, especially for Cartier. The first half of the last century was when the Maison thrived on experimenting with exotic case designs, and the Tank Asymétrique is notably one of a handful that stood out for its distinctly distorted rectangular silhouette. The beautifully proportioned parallelogram dial design is something unique to the specific model where the time-display further complements its frame with an asymmetric layout.
In 1996, before the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) was established, a limited run of 300 pieces in yellow gold and 100 in platinum were released with the same alternating Arabic numerals and baton indexes as the original 1936 model. Under the CPCP collection, an updated variant was introduced in 2006 with 150 pieces in yellow gold, featuring updated lugs and a guilloche dial with applied black Roman numerals. Elegant, rare and highly coveted, the present example is part of a limited series that dropped in April 2020 via the online-only format of Watches & Wonders. Receiving much fanfare, this Tank Asymétrique release was offered in platinum, pink gold and yellow gold, like the present lot, with only 100 examples to be produced in each metal.
Boasting a luscious yellow gold case, this Tank Asymétrique is fitted with a striking sunburst champagne dial, topped with chocolate brown Arabic numerals and a signature cabochon sapphire crown. Preserved in stunning condition and accompanied by its original accessories, the present example is certainly a must-have in any collection, especially with the recent soaring craze for fancy-shaped Cartier timepieces.
Lot 328: A Circa 1980 Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 44018 In 18k Yellow Gold
The 1970s were a time of upheaval, disruption, and rule-breaking. The Swiss watch industry, which prides itself on history, was no exception. During this time, the first steel luxury timepieces were introduced, with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus being the most notable examples. While Gerald Genta developed these two watches, Vacheron Constantin commissioned Jorg Hysek, a young maverick designer, to build a sports luxury watch in honor of the brand's two-hundredth-and-twenty-second anniversary in 1977. The 222 was thus launched and set itself apart from the nautical-themed Royal Oak and the Nautilus with its subtle, distinct flair.
Its tonneau case is made of a single piece that is opened by a screwed-in porthole type fluted bezel, and is water resistant to 120 meters. Only the 222 came with an integrated bracelet made of the same metal as the case. The ultra-thin, self-winding cal. 1121 housed within the 222 is Vacheron Constantin's answer to the famed Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920 seen in the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The 222's design is distinguished from its premium sports watch competitors of the era by the scalloped bezel and hexagonal flat links of the bracelet, as well as the little Maltese cross inserted on the case.
According to research, the 222 was produced with less than 500 pieces in steel, roughly 150 in yellow gold, and less than 100 in two-tone steel and yellow gold over its 7-year production period. This iconic watch became an inspiration for the next classic sports model released by the firm in 1996 - the Overseas.
One of the 150 yellow gold examples built, the present 222 with an elegant champagne dial to match is preserved in excellent overall condition and has developed a warm and attractive patina. Exuding a long gone 1970's aura, this timepiece is a living statement of the flamboyance those decades are known for.
Lot 329: A 1991 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25654BA.OO.0944BA.01
First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was Audemars Piguet’s inaugural stainless steel time-only sports watch, boasting an incredibly modern and sporty aesthetic, fitted with an integrated bracelet. An unusual release during the peak of the Quartz Revolution, this robust design became the blueprint that set the boom of luxury sports models in motion.
Just twelve years after its conception, the ref. 25554 was unveiled in 1984 as the "OG” Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar wristwatch. Striving to fuse form with function, the firm incorporated the compact yet commanding caliber 2120/2800 into the thin Royal Oak case, making the ref. 25554 one of the world’s thinnest self-winding perpetual calendars at the time. The model was subsequently delivered in yellow gold, platinum and stainless steel, with an estimated 279 examples made throughout its 8-year production run, across all metals.
While the Royal Oak ref. 25554 laid the groundwork, it was the present model, ref. 25654, that cemented the success of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Between 1987 and 1999, a total of 851 examples left the Le Brassus workshops: 38 in platinum, 68 two-tone examples with stainless steel and white gold, 315 pieces in stainless steel and 430 pieces in yellow gold. While the two models are aesthetically quite similar, the ref. 25654 is cased in a slightly thicker case of 8.25mm rather than the preceding 7.50mm, which subsequently improved its water resistance capabilities.
The present Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25654BA is a beautifully preserved example, boasting a highly collectible MK I dial. The layout of the dial includes all the fundamental indications of a perpetual calendar, but also features stick hands, which are rarely found in Royal Oak watches. The sub-dials are slightly sunken, adding depth and texture to the otherwise-flat champagne dial. Further defined by its small signature under the moon phase, along with its three gold pearled indexes at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock, the present lot possesses all the desirable traits collectors seek on the earlier examples of the reference 25654. In addition, the MK I dial does not include a leap year indication as this function was only added nine years later, following the upgrade of the movement to the caliber 2120/2802 in 1993.
Moving on to the case, the polished screws, bezel and case bevels provide a sharp contrast against the brushed surfaces of the case and bracelet. The watch retains its original unsigned crown, white gold clasp and clasp cover with the correct "AP" signature. Having aged gracefully through the ravages of time, this well-preserved vintage Royal Oak QP is blessed with an attractive layer of patina on the case and will most certainly appeal to both novice collectors and discerning connoisseurs of the Royal Oak.
Lot 355: A Circa 2014 Urwerk UR-105M 'Dark Knight'
Urwerk is one of the founders of what is known today as “Creative Independent Horology”, a genre born in the last years of the 20th century and that unashamedly brought together alternative time displays, bold designs and haute horlogerie. Founded in 1997 by genius watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and maverick designer Martin Frei, the Urwerk philosophy was from the beginning a time telling display based on rotating elements.
In 2014, Urwerk launched the limited edition UR-105M in two variations – the Iron Knight with a brushed steel armor bezel, and the Dark Knight with a black AITiN-treated steel armor bezel. Inspired by the Middle Ages, evoking knights with shining armor risking their lives for glory and honour, the present timepiece pays tribute to times long gone. The case was developed in line with a knight's shield and its titanium hardware shielding the movement from the world beyond.
Each of Urwerk's innovation and complications are represented in this model with the satellite hours taking centre stage, an emblematic and instantly recognizable signature element of the brand. The hours are indicated via a carousel that carries four rotating discs, each bearing three numerals for the hours. The hours successively sweep past the minutes scale on the lower part of the watch. The running seconds and power reserve are displayed playfully on the caseband. The back of the watch features what the brand calls a “control panel” with a power reserve display, an indication of when the watch needs servicing as well as a fine-tuning screw allowing adjustment of the rate.
Bold and conspicuous, this watch is not only a symbol of contemporary horology, but also an amalgamation of the brand's futuristic vision, combined with traditional watchmaking and romantic lore. The present UR-105M Dark Knight is number 10 of a limited edition of 77 pieces and is offered in excellent overall condition and further accompanied by its full set of accessories.
You can learn more about and register to bid in Disruptors, An Evening Sale of 20th Century & Contemporary Art, Design and Watches, by visiting our online catalog.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade working in watch-focused media, reporting on every aspect of the industry. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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