Condition Report
Sign UporLogin
- Of foliate design, set with a carved chalcedony leaf, the articulated gold branches embellished with four button-shaped natural pearls measuring from 6.98-7.28 x 6.27mm to 8.62-8.70 x 8.19mm, and cultured pearls, measuring approximately 140 x 90mm, French maker’s mark for Groené et Darde and assay mark for gold.
  
  Accompanied by SSEF report no. 86310, stating that the four pearls are natural, saltwater, and one is an assembled cultured blister pearl.
  
  Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update.
  
  Also accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin.
Catalogue Essay
SUZANNE BELPERRON

Bold and enigmatic, Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983) was a visionary and a pioneer of 20th century jewellery design. Although not much is known about her, her legacy lives on through her timeless creations, which celebrate individuality, innovation, and audacity.

Suzanne Belperron was born in Saint-Claude, France, a town renowned for diamond and gemstone cutting. With a keen eye for design from a young age, Belperron pursued her studies at the Institut Supérieur des Beaux Arts de Besançon and in 1919, she moved to Paris where she was hired as a model-maker and designer by Jeanne Boivin, the widow of the late René Boivin, at his eponymous maison.

Throughout the 1920s, she created jewels for Maison René Boivin that pushed aesthetic boundaries and celebrated her avant-garde spirit. Distinctive from the prevalent Art Deco style, which favoured geometric designs, Belperron imbued her work with naturalism, weaving craft with artistry to produce sculptural pieces that uniquely blended precious gems with semi-precious stones.

In 1932, Belperron resigned from Maison René Boivin and joined Bernard Herz, a precious stones and pearls dealer, and one of Boivin’s suppliers. For the rest of the decade, Belperron’s curiosity and skill continued to define her artistic identity. She explored the connection between colour and form, seeking inspiration from the versatility of natural motifs, modern aesthetics, and exotic cultures. Fascinated by nature’s abundant wonders and the world’s cultural diversity, Belperron experimented with the interplay of unconventional materials to bring volume, movement, and sensuality to her pieces.

Throughout the 1930s, Belperron’s illustrious work gained recognition and her creations grazed the covers of iconic fashion magazines, such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Her clientele grew with her influence, and some of her most prestigious collectors included Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli, the Duke of Windsor, and the Aga Khan.

At the dawn of World War II, Bernard Herz signed over his company to Belperron. She kept the venture alive until his son, Jean Herz, a survivor of the war, returned to Paris and joined her as a business partner, renaming the firm Jean-Herz Suzanne Belperron, S.A.R.L.

In 1963, Belperron was awarded the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur, and just over a decade later, the Jean-Herz Suzanne Belperron, S.A.R.L. company was dissolved.

Suzanne Belperron died in 1983, after a rich career spanning 56 years. She left behind an oeuvre that became a major influence in the canon of modern jewellery, with creations that were artworks in themselves, crafted with purpose, flair, and ingenuity. Fiercely original and instantly recognisable, her jewels stood as emblems of creative freedom, yet they were never signed. ‘My style is my signature,’ Belperron once stated, a philosophy that was integral to her identity and a testament to her talent.
Artist Biography
Suzanne Belperron
French • 1900 - 1983
Suzanne Belperron is acknowledged today as one of the most original and influential jewelry designers of the 20th century, a woman designing for women, in a style way ahead of its time, that remains as strikingly modern today as it was almost a century ago. Yet her name had sunk into oblivion until the 1980s, when, aided by the 1987 sale of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels, her talent and the timeless modernity of her designs began to be recognized and her story explored. Born Suzanne Vuillerme, in 1900 in Saint-Claude, in the Jura region of France, she studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Besançon, where her signature themes and influences, such as the fish-scale pattern, were already visible in her prize-winning work. She made her way to Paris in 1919 and was taken on by Jeanne Boivin, who had assumed control of the celebrated jewelry house after the death of her husband, René Boivin in 1917.

Accounts vary as to whether Suzanne started out as a salesgirl, or as a designer-modelmaker, but certainly before long her designs, always under the Boivin name, were hailed as the height of contemporary elegance by a coterie of artistic intelligentsia. In 1924, the year Suzanne married Jean Belperron, an engineer from Besançon, she was made co-director of the Maison Boivin. Her ideas, her daring originality, her values, and her own innate style meshed perfectly with those of Jeanne Boivin. Her versatility enabled her to move effortlessly from prevailing modernism – the stepped, layered Escalier designs – to inspirations from ancient civilizations and exotic cultures, Egypt, Asia, and Africa – all the while injecting her feminine sensibility, combining geometry and stylization with fluidity and sensuality.

In 1932, she left Boivin to work with the gemstone and pearl merchant, Bernard Herz, and here she was given credit as the creator of some of the most sophisticated and sought-after jewels of the day, fashionable yet beyond fashion, the badges of style worn by an illustrious clientèle, including Elsa Schiaparelli, Daisy Fellowes, Diana Vreeland and the Duchess of Windsor. Her celebrated jewels of carved smokey or rose quartz, amethyst, or chalcedony were crafted by the lapidary, Louart, while her jewels were fabricated by Groené et Dard. She steadfastly refused to sign her jewels, famously saying, “My style is my signature.”

View More Works

393

Suzanne Belperron

Chalcedony, natural pearl and cultured pearl brooch, circa 1955

Of foliate design, set with a carved chalcedony leaf, the articulated gold branches embellished with four button-shaped natural pearls measuring from 6.98-7.28 x 6.27mm to 8.62-8.70 x 8.19mm, and cultured pearls, measuring approximately 140 x 90mm, French maker’s mark for Groené et Darde and assay mark for gold.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 86310, stating that the four pearls are natural, saltwater, and one is an assembled cultured blister pearl.

Please note that the report is more than 5 years old and might require an update.

Also accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin.

Estimate
CHF42,000 - 60,000
€43,300-61,800
$45,000-65,000

Place Advance Bid

Contact Specialist

Benoît Repellin
Worldwide Head of Jewellery
BRepellin@phillips.com
+41 79 313 6845

Louisa Eyre-Jackson
Specialist
LEyreJackson@phillips.com
+41 79 574 7713

Roberta Belfer
Associate Specialist
RBelfer@phillips.com
+41 79 522 92 78

Lara Tabbara
Cataloguer
LTabbara@phillips.com
+41 22 317 96 74

Mary Higonnet
Senior Administrator
MHigonnet@phillips.com
+41 22 317 96 64

The Geneva Jewels Auction: TWO

Geneva Auction 13 May 2024

301
Van Cleef & Arpels
Three emerald, gold and ruby brooches, circa 1946
Estimate CHF9,500 - 14,000
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302
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pair of gold and diamond brooches, circa 1940
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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303No Reserve
Cartier
Tortoiseshell, enamel, gem set and diamond brooch, 1950s
Estimate CHF6,500 - 9,500 •
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304
Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate CHF6,500 - 9,500
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305
Cartier
Turquoise, gold, ruby and diamond brooch, circa 1956
Estimate CHF16,000 - 19,000
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306
Cartier
Gold, diamond and ruby brooch, 1940s
Estimate CHF8,500 - 11,000
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307No Reserve
Chaumet
Falcon's eye quartz and silver-gilt box
Estimate CHF3,000 - 5,000 •
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308
Malachite, hardstone and gold box
Estimate CHF5,000 - 7,500
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309
Cartier
Nephrite, gold and sapphire inkstand, circa 1925
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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310
Cartier
Jade, ruby and diamond desk timepiece, circa 1930
Estimate CHF14,000 - 19,000
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311No Reserve
Buccellati
Amethyst and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF3,000 - 5,000 •
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312
Gold and diamond bracelet
Estimate CHF9,500 - 14,000
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313
Chaumet
Diamond wristwatch
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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314
Fancy Deep Brownish Orange diamond ring
Estimate CHF14,000 - 19,000
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315
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Gold and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF14,000 - 19,000
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316
Chaumet
Gold and diamond bangle
Estimate CHF7,500 - 9,500
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317
Boucheron
Gold necklace
Estimate CHF8,500 - 11,000
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318
Boucheron
Peridot and gold pendant
Estimate CHF18,000 - 24,000
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319
Buccellati
Lapis lazuli and gold necklace
Estimate CHF7,500 - 10,000
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320
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF6,500 - 9,500
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321
Bulgari
Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate CHF24,000 - 38,000
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322
Van Cleef & Arpels
Gold necklace
Estimate CHF11,000 - 14,000
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323
Buccellati
Gold necklace
Estimate CHF26,000 - 32,000
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324No Reserve
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF4,000 - 6,000 •
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325
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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326No Reserve
Ruby, diamond and enamel bangle, second half of the 19th century
Estimate CHF4,000 - 6,000 •
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327
Ruby, diamond and enamel parure, second half of the 19th century
Estimate CHF11,000 - 17,000
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328No Reserve
Natural pearl, sapphire and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF2,600 - 3,500 •
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329
Diamond brooch/pendant, circa 1880
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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330
Diamond bracelet
Estimate CHF32,000 - 40,000
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331
Sapphire and diamond brooch/pendant/clasp combination, late 19th century
Estimate CHF75,000 - 110,000
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332
Emerald and diamond jewel, late 19th century
Estimate CHF120,000 - 150,000
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333
LeCoultre
Onyx and diamond lapel watch, 1920s
Estimate CHF6,500 - 9,500
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334
Meister
Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate CHF120,000 - 165,000
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335
E. Paltscho
Nephrite, enamel and diamond brooch
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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336
Boucheron
Diamond bracelet, circa 1930
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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337
Emerald and diamond brooch
Estimate CHF8,500 - 11,000
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338
Pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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339
Tiffany & Co.
Diamond bracelet
Estimate CHF28,000 - 48,000
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340
Natural pearl and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF38,000 - 48,000
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341No Reserve
Natural pearl, cultured pearl and diamond pendant, 1930s
Estimate CHF5,000 - 8,000 •
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342
Tiffany & Co.
Diamond bracelet, circa 1930
Estimate CHF11,000 - 14,000
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343
Emerald and diamond bracelet, 1930s
Estimate CHF19,000 - 22,000
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344
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF30,000 - 38,000
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345
Sapphire and diamond pendent necklace, circa 1910
Estimate CHF28,000 - 48,000
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346
Seaman Schepps
Diamond, rock crystal and cultured pearl choker
Estimate CHF22,000 - 32,000
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347
Cartier
Emerald and diamond clip-brooch, circa 1930
Estimate CHF38,000 - 55,000
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348
Sapphire and diamond parure
Estimate CHF100,000 - 150,000
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349
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF28,000 - 48,000
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350
Tiffany & Co.
Sapphire and diamond double-clip brooch, circa 1950
Estimate CHF14,000 - 19,000
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351
Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate CHF38,000 - 55,000
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352
Ruby and diamond brooch
Estimate CHF9,500 - 14,000
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353
Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips
Estimate CHF9,500 - 14,000
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354
Pair of gem set and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF15,000 - 19,000
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355
Monture Boucheron
Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate CHF11,000 - 14,000
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356
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pair of chalcedony and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF14,000 - 19,000
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357
Paraiba Tourmaline ring
Estimate CHF24,000 - 32,000
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358
Michele della Valle
Pair of diamond earrings
Estimate CHF28,000 - 48,000
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359
Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate CHF18,000 - 24,000
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360
Van Cleef & Arpels
Mother-of-pearl, lacquer and diamond brooch, 'Ume'
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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361
Van Cleef & Arpels
Mother-of-pearl, lacquer and diamond brooch, 'Shinobu'
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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362
Van Cleef & Arpels
Wood, lacquer and diamond brooch, 'Kikumakie'
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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363
Van Cleef & Arpels
Mother-of-pearl, lacquer and diamond brooch, 'Tsurukame'
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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364
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pair of gold and gem cufflinks
Estimate CHF5,000 - 7,000
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365
Van Cleef & Arpels
Turquoise and gold necklace, 'Vintage Alhambra'
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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366
Cartier
Turquoise and diamond demi-parure
Estimate CHF28,000 - 38,000
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367No Reserve
Van Cleef & Arpels
Gold and blue chalcedony sautoir, 'Vintage Alhambra'
Estimate CHF6,500 - 9,500 •
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368
Bulgari
Pair of turquoise, sapphire and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF24,000 - 28,000
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369No Reserve
Van Cleef & Arpels
Gem set and gold bracelet, 'Lucky Alhambra'
Estimate CHF3,000 - 5,000 •
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370No Reserve
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pair of gold earrings, 'Vintage Alhambra'
Estimate CHF2,000 - 3,000 •
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371No Reserve
Cartier
Pair of gold and diamond earrings, 'Love'
Estimate CHF2,000 - 3,000 •
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372No Reserve
Van Cleef & Arpels
Diamond ring, 'Magic Alhambra'
Estimate CHF6,000 - 7,500 •
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373
Sapphire and diamond brooch/pendant
Estimate CHF17,000 - 22,000
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374
Michele della Valle
Pair of spinel and diamond ear clips
Estimate CHF11,000 - 14,000
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375
Friedrich
Pair of sapphire and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF55,000 - 85,000
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376
Sapphire ring
Estimate CHF7,500 - 11,000
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377
Spinel and diamond bracelet
Estimate CHF38,000 - 55,000
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378
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF36,000 - 45,000
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379
Pair of ruby and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF24,000 - 32,000
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380
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF30,000 - 45,000
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381
Pair of ruby and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF28,000 - 55,000
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382
De Grisogono
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF28,000 - 55,000
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383
Ruby and diamond brooch
Estimate CHF9,500 - 14,000
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384
Gübelin
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF48,000 - 75,000
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385
Michele della Valle
Pair of ruby, emerald and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF11,000 - 14,000
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386No Reserve
Sabbadini
Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate CHF9,500 - 14,000 •
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387
Ruby, emerald and diamond demi-parure
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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388
Fancy Deep Brownish Orangy Yellow diamond ring
Estimate CHF32,000 - 40,000
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389
Emerald and diamond parure
Estimate CHF75,000 - 110,000
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390
Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate CHF32,000 - 40,000
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391
Van Cleef & Arpels
Two gold and diamond bracelets/choker combination
Estimate CHF20,000 - 30,000
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392
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF19,000 - 28,000
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393
Suzanne Belperron
Chalcedony, natural pearl and cultured pearl brooch, circa 1955
Estimate CHF42,000 - 60,000
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394
Suzanne Belperron
Pair of sapphire and emerald ear clips, circa 1960
Estimate CHF38,000 - 48,000
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395
David Webb
Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate CHF95,000 - 180,000
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396
Theodore B. Starr
Yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, late 19th century
Estimate CHF14,000 - 19,000
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397
Harry Winston
Emerald and diamond pendant/brooch, circa 1976
Estimate CHF170,000 - 220,000
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398
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF115,000 - 140,000
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399
Diamond ring
Estimate CHF55,000 - 90,000
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400
Fancy Brown Yellow diamond ring
Estimate CHF48,000 - 75,000
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401
Emerald and diamond ring
Estimate CHF60,000 - 80,000
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402
Sterlé
Lapis lazuli, gold and diamond brooch
Estimate CHF11,000 - 14,000
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403
Sterlé
Diamond brooch, 1960s
Estimate CHF55,000 - 85,000
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404
Pair of sapphire and diamond ear clips
Estimate CHF75,000 - 90,000
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405
Van Cleef & Arpels
Diamond brooch, 'Flamme', 1950s
Estimate CHF5,000 - 6,500
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406
Oscar Heyman
Ruby and diamond brooch
Estimate CHF48,000 - 55,000
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407
Pink sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate CHF80,000 - 100,000
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408
Ruby and diamond bracelet
Estimate CHF28,000 - 48,000
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409
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF65,000 - 90,000
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410
Harry Winston
Sapphire and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF170,000 - 240,000
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411
Sapphire and diamond ring
Estimate CHF95,000 - 140,000
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412
Pair of sapphire and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF140,000 - 220,000
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413
Ruby and diamond ring
Estimate CHF185,000 - 270,000
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414
Ruby and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF370,000 - 460,000
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415
Ruby and diamond bracelet
Estimate CHF65,000 - 90,000
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416
Fine diamond ring
Estimate CHF275,000 - 370,000
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417
Emerald and diamond necklace
Estimate CHF110,000 - 165,000
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418
Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring
Estimate CHF255,000 - 370,000
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419
Fancy Deep Brownish Greenish Yellow diamond pendant
Estimate CHF130,000 - 150,000
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420
Pair of emerald and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF28,000 - 48,000
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421
Cartier
Gem set and diamond necklace, 'Panthère'
Estimate CHF95,000 - 140,000
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422
Pair of ruby and diamond earrings
Estimate CHF60,000 - 75,000
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423
Important Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring
Estimate CHF1,000,000 - 1,820,000
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424
JAR
Pair of chalcedony, pink opal and diamond ear clips
Estimate CHF65,000 - 80,000
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425
Fancy Intense Green diamond, diamond and pink sapphire ring
Estimate CHF240,000 - 350,000
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426
Fine pair of diamond earrings
Estimate CHF1,160,000 - 1,640,000
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427
Harry Winston
Fancy Intense Yellow and Fancy Yellow diamond necklace
Estimate CHF275,000 - 460,000
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428
Fancy Yellow diamond ring
Estimate CHF90,000 - 110,000
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429
'The Argyle Phoenix,' Very rare and mesmerising Fancy Red diamond ring
Estimate CHF910,000 - 1,365,000
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430
'The Amazon Queen', Impressive emerald pendant
Estimate CHF1,360,000 - 2,360,000
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431
Exceptional Fancy Vivid Pink diamond ring
Estimate CHF9,540,000 - 13,630,000
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The Geneva Jewels Auction: TWO

Geneva Auction 13 May 2024

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Condition Report

Catalogue Essay

Artist Biography

Suzanne Belperron

393

Suzanne Belperron

Chalcedony, natural pearl and cultured pearl brooch, circa 1955

The Geneva Jewels Auction: TWO

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