Cartier - The Geneva Jewels Auction: TWO Geneva Monday, May 13, 2024 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

    • Designed as a carved tortoiseshell 'blackamoor' in profile, embellished with a brilliant-cut diamond and cabochon turquoise earring, adorned with a gold and black enamel panther's skin with a pear-shaped emerald eye and brilliant-cut diamond details, measuring approximately 64 x 27mm, signed Cartier, numbered, French marker's mark for Cartier and assay marks for gold.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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From a Private Collection

303

Lot offered with No Reserve

Tortoiseshell, enamel, gem set and diamond brooch, 1950s

Designed as a carved tortoiseshell 'blackamoor' in profile, embellished with a brilliant-cut diamond and cabochon turquoise earring, adorned with a gold and black enamel panther's skin with a pear-shaped emerald eye and brilliant-cut diamond details, measuring approximately 64 x 27mm, signed Cartier, numbered, French marker's mark for Cartier and assay marks for gold.

Estimate
CHF6,500 - 9,500 
€6,700-9,800
$7,000-10,000

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The Geneva Jewels Auction: TWO

Geneva Auction 13 May 2024