Bulgari - Jewels & Jadeite Hong Kong Tuesday, May 23, 2023 | Phillips

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  • 「這顆寶石的重量、顏色和產地的組合萬中無一。它的古墊形狀非常優雅,是寶格麗作品指定的獨特切割,尤其適合用來弘揚寶石的瑰麗。當我在斯里蘭卡採購時,第一次『遇到』這顆藍寶石,我完全被它震懾和感動,直到現在還記得當時的心情。來自斯里蘭卡的藍寶石擁有透明發亮的質感,正是寶格麗高級珠寶所追求的 --- 注滿了光和喜悅的寶石。如果想確實了解這顆寶石的美和稀珍度,就必需親自觀賞。」
    —寶格麗珠寶創意及寶石採購執行董事Lucia Silvestri

     
  • 斯里蘭卡 / 寶石之島嶼

     

    斯里蘭卡是一個位處亞洲的美麗島嶼國,1972年前又名為「錫蘭」,時至今日依然是世界上非常重要的寶石產地之一。這裡擁有超過四十個寶石品種的礦藏,產量在世界上位列前幾名,而在豐富的礦藏中,藍寶石就佔了85%。

     

    事實上,斯里蘭卡是其中一個最早出產藍寶石的國度,寶石開採已經有接近2500年的歷史。這些來自斯里蘭卡的絢麗藍色寶石早在公元前幾百年就在希臘、羅馬帝國,以及波斯流通,及後於5世紀在全球都能找到它的踪影,可見其吸引力之大。斯里蘭卡在古語中被冠以「寶石之島嶼 (Ratnadeepa)」的美名,確實當之無愧。

     

     

    斯里蘭卡藍寶石

     

    正如寶格麗珠寶創意及寶石採購執行董事Lucia Silvestri女士指出,斯里蘭卡的藍寶石透亮且注滿了光,就是其獨特之處。最頂級的斯里蘭卡藍寶石淨度極佳,在其他產地的剛玉晶體中甚為罕見。儘管全天然不加工的藍寶裡不可以完全沒有內含物,但典型的細小針狀內含有助於將光均勻折射到整顆寶石,令色澤分配更平均。

     

    歷史上的重量級的斯里蘭卡藍寶石包括486.52克拉的「東方藍巨人 (Giant of the Orient)」、由美國史密森尼美國藝術博物館所珍藏的422.99克拉「洛根藍寶石 (Logan Blue Sapphire」,以及392.52克拉的「東方藍美人 (Blue Belle of Asia)」。

     

     

    皇家藍

     

    這顆重118.35克拉的藍寶石呈現艷麗的藍色,均勻分佈在整顆寶石上,瞬間就能吸引人駐足凝視。它被授予Gübelin寶石鑑定所的「皇家藍」顏色分級,是寶石藏家及珠寶行內最受追棒的顏色。

     

    Gübelin寶石鑑定所以其嚴格的標準而聞名,無論是在寶石鑑定的工作上,還是在寶石顏色專用術語的使用上,都有嚴謹的規範。如果寶要取得特定的顏色專用術語,它必須滿足所有相應的標準。

     

    藍寶石對符合「皇家藍」的標準,其藍色必須強烈、飽和且均勻。在質量方面,「皇家藍」只會授予擁有優良品質且未經處理的藍寶石。這些藍寶石必須相對乾淨,不含肉眼可見或深色內含物,並且需呈現均勻的顏色分佈和明亮的內部反射。

     

     

    頂尖寶石的承諾

     

    對於珠寶藏家及愛好者來說,寶格麗長久以來都以精彩絶侖的彩色寶石聞名於世,品牌專家憑藉對寶石的熱忱和喜愛,走訪世界不同國度和秘境,鍥而不捨地追尋最稀有的大自然塊寶,再以珠寶藝術家呈現於大家眼前。這些難能可貴的寶石往往令人留下深刻難忘的印象,並喚起深刻的連繫。

     

    寶格麗高級珠寶系列只選用近乎完美的寶石,正如此顆出產自斯里蘭卡的藍寶石,在瑞士Gübelin寶石評分(Gemstone Rating)取得將近滿分98分的傲人成績,直接獲頒授最高級別的「非凡 (Exceptional)」頭銜。這個寶石評分機制會根據寶石的品質、稀有度,以及吸引力三方面作出評估,以100分為滿分,取得95分或以上才能擠身「非凡」級別。

     

     

    一顆藍寶石的誔生

     

    多得這顆藍寶石表面的微小鋯石內含物,瑞士SSEF寶石學院的專家能夠對這顆碩大的藍寶石進行放射性年齡撿測。根據對內含物所進行的分析,專家推斷這顆藍寶石的年齡約為 5億4千萬年。這年齡與在斯里蘭卡發現的藍寶石形成年齡非常吻合,進一步支持SSEF對此藍寶石產地的看法。

     

     

    鉅作的設計

     

    寶格麗有不少經典設計都採用色調對比強烈的彩色寶石,搭配亮麗的K黃金原素,但在2000年代起,品牌越趨傾向二維設計,鉑金和白金亦一併回歸,仿佛在呼應二十世紀五十年代的華麗風尚。品牌此時期的作品散發出一種簡約的奢華感,這風格在高級珠寶系列尤其突出。

     

    有別於色彩絢爛且鑲嵌多種切割形狀寶石的作品,這條藍寶石項鏈採用完全對稱的幾何設計,令人聯想到世代流傳的皇室貴族珠寶收藏。項鏈正中心鑲嵌一顆非常重要的主石,鑽石鏈子上則採用上世紀三十至五十年代常見的寶石排列手法:每個小圓環的構造以梯形鑽石代替圓形鑽石,精緻工藝可見一斑。設計刻意利用梨形鑽石的尖端將圓環連接,讓整條項鏈顯得細膩輕盈,平衡主石的份量。

     

    在2022年法國戛納電影節期間,屢獲殊榮的美國女影星安.海瑟薇 (Anne Hathaway)在紅地毯上佩戴了一條十分重要的寶格麗藍寶石項鏈,與這條華美的項鏈如出一轍。安娜海瑟薇所佩戴的作品比較近期,以大自然原素為主題,更富裝飾性,而這條2004年製作的項鏈則以經典設計和線條優雅,各有特色。

     

    各個鑽石圓環可被視為一個模塊,而寶格麗的作品中經常會看到模塊 (modulo) 的設計,意指將單一的模塊複製成系列再進行連接。八十年代初發表的「括號(Parentesi)」首飾就是一個上佳的例子,它的靈感來自羅馬的人行道,是寶格麗最受歡迎的「modulo」設計之一。

     

     

    結語

     

    簡潔流暢的線條、優雅的幾何圖案,再加上將斯里蘭卡藍寶石水平橫式鑲嵌的巧思,都是賦予此項鏈現代感的重要元素,從打造完成至今歷經二十年,其魅力有增無減就是最好的證明。這件堪稱藝術品的珠寶體現了大自然界的奇蹟、義大利著名珠寶商的精湛工藝,以及稀珍寶石收藏的至高標準,絶對是世代傳承的重要瑰寶。

      • Composed of circular links set with tapered baguette diamonds, alternating with pear-shaped diamonds, the centre set with a brilliant-cut stone weighing 2.00 carats, supporting a cushion-shaped sapphire horizontally-set weighing 118.35 carats, circular links and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and white gold, signed Bulgari, length approximately 410mm, case stamped Bulgari.

        Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126610, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating; together with an appendix letter and a letter of datation.

        Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23010210, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of thermal enhancement, ‘royal blue’ colour; together with an appendix letter and a gemstone rating card of 98 points and mentioning the exceptionality of the stone.

        Accompanied by five GIA reports stating that the diamonds weighing from 2.00 to 2.70 carats range from D to G Colour, Internally Flawless to VS2 Clarity.

        Accompanied by a Bulgari Gem Report.

        附瑞士SSEF, 瑞士Gübelin, 五張美國GIA證書及寶格麗寶石證書

        (Please note that the GIA reports are more than 10 years old and may require an update)

        'The described sapphire exhibits a highly impressive size and weight of 118.353 ct, combined with an attractive blue colour and a fine purity... In addition to these qualities, this sapphire has been spared exposure to heat treatment and its clarity and colour are thus entirely natural. A natural sapphire from Ceylon of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional'. Extract from the SSEF appendix letter.

        'The natural sapphire of 118.35 ct described in the above mentioned Gübelin Gem Lab Report possesses a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural sapphires of this size'. Extract from the Gübelin appendix letter.

    • 藝術家簡介

      Bulgari

      Italian

      Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece's rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy's oldest jewelry company. 

      In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari's style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house's unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms. 

      瀏覽更多作品

重要私人收藏

578

118.35克拉「斯里蘭卡皇家藍」天然藍寶石配鑽石項鏈, 藍寶石未經加熱處理, 寶格麗, 2004年

Composed of circular links set with tapered baguette diamonds, alternating with pear-shaped diamonds, the centre set with a brilliant-cut stone weighing 2.00 carats, supporting a cushion-shaped sapphire horizontally-set weighing 118.35 carats, circular links and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and white gold, signed Bulgari, length approximately 410mm, case stamped Bulgari.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126610, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating; together with an appendix letter and a letter of datation.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23010210, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of thermal enhancement, ‘royal blue’ colour; together with an appendix letter and a gemstone rating card of 98 points and mentioning the exceptionality of the stone.

Accompanied by five GIA reports stating that the diamonds weighing from 2.00 to 2.70 carats range from D to G Colour, Internally Flawless to VS2 Clarity.

Accompanied by a Bulgari Gem Report.

附瑞士SSEF, 瑞士Gübelin, 五張美國GIA證書及寶格麗寶石證書

(Please note that the GIA reports are more than 10 years old and may require an update)

'The described sapphire exhibits a highly impressive size and weight of 118.353 ct, combined with an attractive blue colour and a fine purity... In addition to these qualities, this sapphire has been spared exposure to heat treatment and its clarity and colour are thus entirely natural. A natural sapphire from Ceylon of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional'. Extract from the SSEF appendix letter.

'The natural sapphire of 118.35 ct described in the above mentioned Gübelin Gem Lab Report possesses a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural sapphires of this size'. Extract from the Gübelin appendix letter.

Full Cataloguing

估價
HK$24,000,000 - 35,000,000 
$3,050,000-4,500,000

成交價HK$26,828,000

聯絡專家

劉詠儒
香港珠寶部門主管
+852 2318 2039
JewelleryHK@phillips.com

珠寶和翡翠

香港拍賣 2023年5月23日