Following on from Part One, we continue our Specialists’ Picks from Watches & Wonders 2026 and across Geneva with further highlights selected by Phillips’ global team, ranging from exquisite jewelry and handcraft-driven creations to eye-catching dress watches.
Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Galets
Tiffany To, Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist, Geneva
I love this watch. It shows that CEO Ilaria Resta is making her mark through the creation of the Atelier des Établisseurs and that Audemars Piguet is daring to go beyond its traditional Royal Oak releases. In that sense, this Ref. 75220BA.OO.7522BA.01 is a clever broadening of the brand’s market.
I’m a fan of jeweler Nadia Morgenthaler and also of the beautiful pebble-shaped links made of turquoise and tiger’s eye. And I’m particularly fond of the movement – a beautiful revival of AP’s first in-house movement, the Calibre 3090.
This execution – Calibre 3098 – has been reimagined by constructor Arthur Gallezot, whose modifications give it a more eye-catching form. Even the bridges echo the organic curves of a polished pebble, adding an extra layer of visual poetry.
Doug Escribano, Senior International Specialist, New York
Audemars Piguet’s Établisseurs Galets was also my standout of the show. It’s a great blend of traditional Swiss watchmaking and innovative design and pays tribute to the établisseur system that uses components from specialized craftsmen.
The organic shape of the case and bracelet is reminiscent of bold 1970s designs and is reflected in the shape of the movement fitted to the case. This piece might fly under the radar but will appeal to collectors seeking exceptional non-trophy watches.
Aaron Becsei Pameus in Platinum with Onyx Dial
Gertrude Wong, Head of Sale, Specialist, Associate Director, Hong Kong
Balancing complex, obsessive finishing with minimalism is one of the hardest challenges in watchmaking. With the time-only Pameus, Aaron Becsei has succeeded superbly.
This watch speaks a distinctive personal language: the 38mm case, the recessed subdial with countersink, the hour markers and chapter ring. Each detail stands as a highlight!
Patek Philippe “The Fox and the Crow” Automaton Ref. 5249R-001
Cindy Yen, Deputy Chairwoman, Taiwan and General Manager, Taiwan
From a scholarly perspective, my pick would be the Patek Philippe “The Fox and the Crow” automaton Ref. 5249R-001. Given the impressive collection of automata in the Patek Philippe Museum, it’s surprising that we don’t see more of these creations in its past production. This latest piece feels like a beautiful continuation of the automaton craft.
On a personal level, my heart goes to the off-catalogue Rolex Day-Date 36 – any color. They’re incredibly versatile and there’s something irresistible about them!
Alvin Lau, Specialist, Watches, Hong Kong
The biggest surprise from Patek Philippe wasn’t the 50th anniversary Nautilus, but the release of the brand’s first automaton in its modern history, “The Fox and the Crow.”
Displaying hours and minutes on demand via a dedicated pusher, it draws inspiration from a historic piece in the Patek Philippe Museum – the 1958 "Le Corbeau et le Renard" Pocket Watch Ref. 784, featuring a movement by Louis Cottier.
While Patek is not the first watchmaker to tackle such a mechanical feat, it is remarkable to see it embrace a new complication on a wristwatch with such creativity.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”
Zi Yong Ho, Senior International Specialist, Senior Director
A. Lange & Söhne ‘Lumen’ editions are well-known and here the brand applies its glow-in-the-dark treatment to its emblematic perpetual calendar with stop-seconds tourbillon.
I love the luminous accents and glowing calendar display while the semi-transparent sapphire-crystal dial showcases the exceptional mechanics of the brand. A serious watch with an enduring appeal!
Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris
Vy Tran, Consultant, Vietnam
For me, the new Cartier Baignoire Clou de Paris was the watch that caught my eye. Combining the brand’s classic Baignoire design with the hobnail pattern of the Clash jewelry line is a pure stroke of genius.
Tudor Monarch
Alvin Lau, Specialist, Watches, Hong Kong
Besides Patek Philippe’s “The Fox and the Crow”, Tudor’s reintroduction of the Monarch to mark the brand’s hundredth anniversary also captured my attention.
Reminiscent of Rolex "bubble backs", it has a vintage aesthetic with champagne “California” dial, faceted case and newly designed bracelet, and it will have plenty of appeal for collectors. While the 39mm diameter is not huge, it would have been perfect if it were a touch smaller.
Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Chronos
Rika Dila, Senior Consultant, Bangkok
My fondness for the jump hour has grown since the debut of the Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Chronos. I consider myself a natural maximalist so the hand-engraved Greek god of time on the solid gold case is very much to my taste.
There is also the exclusivity of this creation: It might be a 33-piece limited edition, but the nature of the hand-engraving means each piece will hold its own uniqueness, making it even more special.
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar and Chopard L.U.C 1860
Steven Rogers, Senior Editorial Manager
The term “understated elegance” may be a cliché, but it neatly fits these two picks that reflect my current preference for smaller dress watches with clean, balanced layouts.
First, A. Lange & Söhne’s new-generation Saxonia Annual Calendar, in white gold with a white dial or pink gold with a grey dial. Compared to its discontinued predecessor, these are proper upgrades, looking sharper, working better and wearing even more easily.
That’s because the Glashütte brand has introduced a smaller case, down from 38.5mm to 36mm, while also refining the lugs and slimming the bezel, helping to open up the dial more.
Inside is a new, finely finished automatic calibre with 60-hour power reserve, up from the previous 46 hours. You still set the calendar via correctors using a stylus, but there is now a caseband pusher that advances all indications by one day – a handy way to get the calendar back up to speed if the watch has been sitting for a few days.
Then, there’s Chopard’s L.U.C 1860 with 18k gold “Areuse” blue dial, featuring hand-guilloché, sunburst and satin-finished decorations. Launched to mark 30 years of the brand’s Fleurier manufacture, this 36.5mm edition in Lucent Steel replaces the outgoing salmon-dial edition.
That model has been a standout since its debut three years ago, but this new blue edition comes closer to the spirit of the classic L.U.C 1860 introduced in 1997 – and looks the part too!
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The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.