Now that the dust has settled, Watches & Wonders 2026 has once again confirmed the show's role as the annual focal point of the watch community. Beyond the main event at Palexpo, Geneva was alive with satellite fairs, brand presentations and informal gatherings, as the entire city once again became the watch world’s center of gravity.
As Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, notes: “I remember the fairs of the 1990s and early 2000s, when those attending were almost exclusively retailers, distributors, and the press.
“Gradually, Watches & Wonders and, by extension, Geneva Watch Week, have become the one and only super show in our industry, where the entire ecosystem meets – large luxury groups and small independents, businesspeople and dreamers, makers, press, collectors, dealers and auction house specialists. It feels like one big family.”
He adds: “At times, Geneva’s old town and the lakefront felt like a Phillips auction preview – a constant flow of encounters and conversations with collectors from around the world.”
Against this backdrop, Phillips’ specialists, consultants and editorial team share the watches that stood out over the past week at Watches & Wonders and across Geneva, from headline releases and independent showstoppers to less obvious pieces that may have slipped under the radar.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738G-001
Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant
With a few exceptions, this was a rather classic, traditional year, where every brand, small or big, continued doing well what they are already known for. But nothing shook me like a volcano eruption.
I profoundly regret not having handled in person yet the 50th anniversary Patek Philippe Nautilus. The no seconds, no date combination with a slimmer case seems a very appealing proposition to me, a Nautilus buff and lover of all things vintage.
And while something like the Ref. 6105G-001 – a 47mm do-it-all, super-complication – may be great to own and look at, it is not necessarily a watch for daily life.
So, my pick is a watch that I could wear: the newly launched Golden Ellipse with forest green dial and strap, Ref. 5738G-001. It’s legible, harmonious and still an incredibly contemporary watch, despite its 1968 origins – a few years older than I am, and ageing rather better.
Piaget Sixtie Cuff Watch
Livia Russo, Senior Consultant
This Piaget Sixtie Cuff Watch caught my eye for its balance of beauty and craftsmanship. The combination of pink gold, diamonds and opal is striking, but still very soft on the wrist. It stands out without trying too hard and feels as much like a piece of art as it does a watch.
Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF and David Candaux’s DC1
Alexandre Ghotbi, Deputy Chairman, Head of Watches, Europe and Middle East
Picking favorites is nearly impossible this year. Several watches left me speechless and two of them are still under embargo, so the excitement isn’t over just yet!
But if I had to name two that truly got me excited, the first is a new variation of David Candaux’s DC1 with its inclined tourbillon, this time in platinum with onyx dial and pink gold accents. It’s the kind of watch that stops you mid-sentence. It is like a tuxedo watch reimagined through an avant-garde lens – impeccably dressed and technically fearless.
The second? An easy call and I’ll happily join the chorus: Rexhep Rexhepi’s new Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) is simply orgasmic. The case proportions are spot-on, the dial is a masterpiece and the in-house chronograph movement is finished to a level that ought to be studied in every watchmaking school. A future classic, no question.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 126502
Paul Boutros, Deputy Chairman, Head of Watches, Americas
What an unexpected surprise the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 126502 was, once again demonstrating that Rolex marches to its own drumbeat.
The Grand Feu, four-piece enamel dial appears exquisite in its quality and beauty – and makes this model an ultimate creation of Rolex. Combined with the new metallic anthracite ceramic bezel and its restyled, vertically-oriented tachymeter scale, the new Ref. 126502 in Rolesium certainly showcases Rolex’s design and manufacturing prowess.
Patek Philippe 50th Anniversary Nautilus and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Thomas Perazzi, Deputy Chairman, Head of Watches, Asia
Patek Philippe’s celebration of the Nautilus’ 50th anniversary was a real highlight. The Geneva brand not only met expectations, but exceeded them by returning to the purity of the original design and the simplicity of Gérald Genta’s early sketches.
The new 41mm white-gold models echo the presence of the Ref. 3700, while the 38mm platinum version recalls the more compact Ref. 3800 introduced in the 1980s.
Several design decisions were well judged: the absence of both a date display and a central seconds hand, along with the subtlety of the commemorative engraving on the movement’s micro-rotor. The introduction of a “mid-size” case reflects a broader industry shift but also shows that Patek Philippe is sensitive to evolving collector preferences.
Meanwhile, at Vacheron Constantin’s stand there was another anniversary of an icon: the 30 years of the Overseas. The quartet of Dual Time “Cardinal Points” models stands out for its use of titanium, building on the precedent set by the Everest limited edition.
These watches also introduce an integrated titanium bracelet and are delivered with three interchangeable options: bracelet and two rubber straps. The variations in dial and strap colors across the four references offer collectors a real sense of choice. And the orange accents used for the second time zone and day/night indicators provide an eye-catching visual signature.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points East
Kazuhiko Fujimoto, Senior Consultant, Tokyo
I love the colorful combinations of the new Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points. Personally, I love orange and blue, so Cardinal Points East Ref. 7930V/210T-H074 is a natural choice, with its mix of blue and orange on the grained dial, hands and strap and stitching. This is a watch that I could wear every day.
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Releases
Isabella Proia, Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist, New York
The watches that really took my breath away were the Rare Handcrafts releases from Patek Philippe. I love the boat scenes, the volcano series and the Scottish inspired ones.
The “Whisky Glass” is so three-dimensional and realistic, but at the same time the framing of the glass doesn’t make it seem like you just have a painting of a glass on your watch.
You’re able to envision the craftsmanship that goes into each, balanced against the realism of the subject. I think this year they’ve really outdone themselves – the owl is a favorite for me!
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux
Sophie Furley, Head of Digital Marketing
This latest addition to Parmigiani Fleurier’s award-winning Tonda line performs a genuine magician’s trick.
At first glance, it looks like any other model from the collection, save for a discreet extra pusher at 8 o’clock. Press it, and a secret chronograph springs out of nowhere. Well, not quite out of nowhere, it is just that the illusion is so fast it is almost imperceptible to the human eye.
Two chronograph hands are hidden under the minute hand and, together with the running seconds hand, they all snap to 12 o’clock on demand and immediately start recording elapsed time. A second push stops the chronograph, then a third push sends them back to their hiding position, while the seconds hand continues on its merry way.
We have already seen dual time watches with a disappearing hand, but concealing a full set of chronograph hands is definitely a world first.
Our Specialists’ Picks: Watches & Wonders 2026 continues with Part Two, where further highlights await.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.