Our first live auction of 2025, the PHILLIPS Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, takes place on 10 - 11 May, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. The auction includes nearly 200 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale over the next month, including all the watches detailed below.
– By Logan Baker
In 2025, Breguet celebrates its 250th anniversary — a milestone that underscores its enduring influence in horology. Founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand has consistently set benchmarks in watchmaking innovation and design.
Born in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, in 1747, Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop in Paris at 51 Quai de l'Horloge. His early creations, such as the self-winding "perpétuelle" watch introduced in 1780, showcased his commitment to advancing watchmaking technology. In 1801, he patented the tourbillon, a mechanism designed to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping accuracy. Breguet also developed the "para-chute" shock protection system in 1790 and the Breguet overcoil balance spring in 1795, both of which remain relevant in modern watchmaking.
Breguet's clientele included prominent figures such as Marie Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Queen Victoria. Notably, he crafted the first known wristwatch for Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples, in 1812.
In the 1970s, during a period of decline for mechanical watchmaking, Breguet underwent a renaissance under the guidance of master watchmaker Daniel Roth. Joining the brand in 1973, Roth immersed himself in Breguet's historical archives, aiming to restore the brand's former glory. Collaborating with François Bodet, Roth reintroduced classic Breguet elements such as guilloché dials, coin-edge cases, and blued "pomme" hands, while also developing complications that honored the brand's innovative spirit. You can read our recent in-depth article on the Daniel Roth era at Breguet right here.
Now part of the Swatch Group, Breguet continues to produce timepieces that reflect its rich heritage and commitment to innovation. The brand's contemporary collections pay homage to its historical designs while incorporating contemporary advancements in watchmaking technology.
As Breguet marks 250 years, we're celebrating with a remarkable selection of Breguet timepieces that reflect the company's long history and tradition of innovation.
Lot 18: The 1991 F.P. Journe × THA for Breguet Sympathique Clock No. 1
Estimate: In excess of CHF 1,000,000
Back in 1991, Breguet teamed up with a young François-Paul Journe and the newly founded THA (Technique Horlogère Appliquée) to create something that hadn’t been attempted in nearly two centuries: a new Sympathique clock.
The result? A jaw-dropping, technically outrageous clock with yellow gold panels, featuring a moon-phase, equation of time, thermometer, and full calendar — with a yellow gold tourbillon wristwatch to match.
The wristwatch, housed in a 36mm yellow gold case, comes equipped with a tourbillon, moon-phase, and power reserve display. Take off the strap, pop it into a fitted cradle, and just like that, you’ve got a pocket watch. True to Breguet’s 18th-century vision, the clock winds and sets the wristwatch automatically. Even cooler? The clock’s large escapement sets the pace for the wristwatch’s balance, syncing the two in a way that’s still mind-blowing today.
Journe, a longtime Breguet admirer (he even tried to buy the brand in the 1980s), poured himself into this project. It was the first and only Sympathique he made largely by hand before THA scaled up production. Designed by horological illustrator David Penney, this first Sympathique set the tone for everything that followed — and remains the only one clad entirely in gold.
This one-off masterpiece stands as a tribute to two of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s greatest inventions — the sympathique system and the tourbillon.
Lot 62: A 1938 Breguet Chronograph in 18k Yellow Gold with 'Olive' Pushers
Estimate: CHF 60,000 - 120,000
When you think Breguet, you probably picture engine-turned dials, blued hands, and groundbreaking mechanics. But hidden in the brand’s deep catalog are gems like this: a 1938 yellow gold chronograph that captures everything great about early 1900s wristwatch design.
Measuring 33.5mm across, the watch wears beautifully, with a slim coin-edged case and a sharp sector dial that feels straight out of the 1930s (because it is). The olive-shaped pushers are the perfect finishing touch, giving the case a smooth, refined profile. Even better, the case, dial, and movement are all numbered 4094, meaning this piece has stayed intact for nearly a century.
Long before the Type XX flyback chronograph became the icon it is today, Breguet was already experimenting with chronographs like this one, blending utility with unmistakable elegance. And like every great Breguet, you don’t even need to see the name to know exactly what you’re looking at.
Lot 63: A 1972 Breguet Triple-Calendar Chronograph in Stainless Steel
Estimate: CHF 80,000 - 160,000
You don’t see many Breguets like this. Made in 1972, this 36mm stainless steel triple calendar chronograph with a moon-phase is a rare departure from the brand’s classical roots — and a serious collector’s piece.
Most Breguet calendar chronographs from this period came in gold cases, but this one keeps things sporty and understated in steel. Under the hood, it’s powered by a Valjoux 88, an upgraded version of the Valjoux 72C found in watches like Rolex’s Dato Compax. If you’re getting flashes of Patek Philippe’s 1518 or 2499 when you look at the dial layout, you’re not alone — but the execution here, with its French flair and cool blue accents, feels unmistakably Breguet.
At a time when the brand was mostly known for the Type XX, pieces like this show how Breguet could push into complicated watchmaking while still keeping its own identity. Strong lugs, a crisp convex bezel, and a monochromatic dial with just the right amount of pop — it all comes together in a watch that's both elegant and quietly bold.
Lot 83: A Circa 1995 Breguet 'Tuxedo' Chronograph Ref. 3237 in 18k White Gold with Onyx Chapter Ring
Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000
Breguet usually plays it straight — coin-edge cases, guilloché dials, and a look that hasn’t changed too much since Abraham-Louis walked the earth. But every now and then, they throw a curveball. Case in point: this white gold 3237 chronograph from around 1995.
At first glance, it’s all classic Breguet elegance: slim 36mm case, beautiful proportions, timeless lines. But then you catch the dial — a silver-printed outer track laid over deep, glossy onyx. It’s a small detail that changes everything, giving the watch a sharp, formal vibe that's earned it the nickname “Tuxedo.”
Inside, you get the Lemania 2310, one of the most respected manual-wind chronograph movements ever made — the same base caliber used by Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Roger Dubuis. And according to research, this specific configuration is about as rare as it gets, with only five examples known. Even cooler? The dial is numbered 3537, just one away from another known piece (3538), adding a nice bit of lore.
Lot 164: A 1989 Breguet Tourbillon Ref. 3350 in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000
Nearly two centuries after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon in 1801, Breguet paid tribute to that breakthrough with the reference 3350, a tourbillon wristwatch that fuses old-world craftsmanship with a touch of late 20th-century refinement.
This example, dating to 1989, captures everything that makes early ref. 3350s so special. It’s cased in yellow gold, measures a classic 35mm, and features a solid silver guilloché dial with a slight champagne tone. Unlike later models, this early piece keeps the dial clean, free of additional text cluttering the guilloché work. Flip it over, and you’ll spot the ornate filigree engraving on the movement.
Lot 176: A Circa 1990 Breguet Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3050 in Platinum
Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000
In the middle of the Quartz Revolution, when most brands were running from tradition, Breguet — and Daniel Roth — doubled down. In 1973, Roth revived the perpetual calendar at Breguet, leading to the creation of the ref. 3050, a watch that’s now a quiet cornerstone of modern Breguet history.
This example, dating to around 1990, shows why the ref. 3050 is so special. Cased in platinum, measuring 36mm across and just 8mm thick, it wears with the kind of effortless elegance you don't see much anymore. The solid gold dial, finished in galvanized silver with crisp Clous-de-Paris guilloché, brings texture and depth without shouting for attention. Breguet's signature hands, a coin-edge case, and a discreet numbered plaque tucked into the date subdial tie everything back to the brand’s classic DNA.
Underneath the dial, the perpetual calendar mechanism reflects the old-world craft that Roth championed. Production numbers remained low — and remained special. By 1986, Breguet introduced a sequel, the ref. 3310 with a power reserve complication, but for many collectors, the clean simplicity of the ref. 3050 remains untouchable.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Watch Auction: XXI catalogue right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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