– By Logan Baker; Images by author unless noted
Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 concluded yesterday. It was another successful year, with more brands represented at Geneva's Palexpo than any previous edition of the show and more than 55,000 recorded guests over the seven-day period, a 12 percent increase over 2024.
I spent almost the entire week at the show, meeting with brands and viewing their latest releases. Since then, I’ve been thinking about what stood out. What trends and themes shaped the show? I boiled it down to 10 key points, covering both Watches & Wonders and the many events happening across the city during the week.
Here’s what you need to know when reviewing the latest releases from the busiest week of the year in watches.
1.) The Star of the Show: The All-New Rolex Land Dweller Collection
When the doors opened at Watches & Wonders this year, we knew Rolex had something major up its sleeve. Meet the Land-Dweller — what might be the most important Rolex release in a generation.
The Land-Dweller pulls together everything Rolex does best: a deep respect for history, serious technical innovation, and dead-serious execution. You can feel it immediately. The case shape throws it back to the integrated-bracelet designs of the ‘70s — think the mechanical ref. 1530 and the later Oysterquartz — but it’s sleeker, thinner (9.7mm!), and more wearable than any Datejust today. Even the new-look Flat Jubilee bracelet appears as if Rolex took its best ideas from 50 years ago and actually made them better.
But that’s only half the story. Flip the watch over and you’ll see something Rolex almost never does: a display caseback. Why? Because inside beats the brand-new caliber 7135, housing the Dynapulse escapement — a totally new, highly patented, industrially scalable direct impulse escapement. It’s a huge deal.
For the first time, Rolex has built a mechanical high-frequency movement, running at 5Hz. Thanks to the Dynapulse system, it delivers a new level of precision, stability, and efficiency. This isn’t just another incremental update. It’s a full leap forward, developed over nearly a decade, backed by 32 patents, and made possible by Rolex’s in-house silicon expertise.
And yeah, it’s still waterproof, still a Superlative Chronometer, and still pure Rolex — no compromises. But now you get all of that with a 50-year design tribute and a genuinely groundbreaking mechanical engine. It’s not often you see a brand like Rolex swing this big.
Retail sits at $14,900 in steel. That’s more than a Datejust, less than a Sky-Dweller, and honestly, feels pretty reasonable for what you’re getting: a historically meaningful case design, a serious movement innovation, and a clear statement that Rolex isn’t standing still.
2.) Grand Seiko Embraces Innovation
A lot of great watches showed up at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025. But few releases caught my attention quite like Grand Seiko’s SLGB001 and SLGB003, fitted with the brand-new Ultra Fine Adjustment Spring Drive caliber, and the latter coming with the brand's first-ever bracelet with micro-adjust.
Let’s start with the movement. Grand Seiko’s new 9RB2 Spring Drive has an accuracy rating of ±20 seconds per year. That’s mechanical accuracy at a level we’ve never seen before, all in a compact, 30mm by 5.02mm movement with a 72-hour power reserve. Plus, a new thermo-compensated IC, a skeletonized rotor, and a regulation switch for fine-tuning after servicing.
Then there’s the bracelet. After years of feedback (and a few friendly jabs from collectors), Grand Seiko finally delivered a proper micro-adjust system. The new High-Intensity Titanium bracelet lets you make on-the-fly adjustments in three quick steps, adding up to 6mm of comfort.
3.) The Rise (Again) of the Time-Only Watch
Every year at Watches & Wonders, there’s a lot of noise — complications, collaborations, anniversaries. But this year, something quieter caught my eye: a surge of simple, time-only watches that feel, frankly, like the most exciting part of the fair.
I’ll start with the one that everyone's talking about: the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6196P-001. Platinum case, salmon dial, no date. It feels like a spiritual successor to the beloved ref. 96. Everything about it is deliberate, from the blackened hand and hour markers to the use of the new self-winding caliber 30-255PS.
Right nearby, Vacheron Constantin reminded us why the latest Traditionnelle Manual-Winding belongs in any conversation about the perfect dress watch. Vacheron didn’t need to reinvent anything here — they just made it even better with a special 270th-anniversary dial decoration.
Grand Seiko brought something unexpected: the SBGW323, with a textured purple dial inspired by the kiri, the official flower of Iwate Prefecture. It has a stainless steel 36.5mm case with a solid case back and a manual-wind movement inside.
Over at Cartier, things got interesting. We got not one, but two new time-only Tanks. First, the Tank à Guichets officially returned. It’s a jumping hour design straight out of Art Deco Paris, and it wears like a tiny sculpture. Then there’s the Tank Louis Cartier Automatic. Finally, an automatic Tank that stays thin and true to the spirit of the original. Cartier nailed it on both fronts.
Across the aisle, H. Moser did Moser things with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel. No logo, no markers, just an incredible deep purple enamel dial that looks like it’s lit from within. You either get Moser’s approach or you don’t — and this one’s pure Moser.
Zenith brought a wild card with the G.F.J., a three-hand homage to brand founder Georges Favre-Jacot and the legendary caliber 135. It's a series-produced follow-up to 2022's Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire, made in collaboration between Kari Voutilainen and the team here at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo.
Jaeger-LeCoultre came in classic with the Monoface Small Seconds ref. Q713216J. One dial, one set of hands, and the option to flip it over if you just want polished metal staring back at you.
And of course, F.P. Journe dropped the Chronomètre Furtif the day before Watches & Wonders opened its doors — their idea of a stealth watch. Time-only, tungsten carbide case and bracelet, barely-there markers on an enamel dial that you can only see from certain angles.
If there’s a theme this year, it’s this: simplicity speaks louder than ever. And frankly, I’m here for it.
4.) Smaller Diameters
I’ll be honest: for a while, it felt like every new watch release had one goal — go bigger. But walking around Watches & Wonders 2025 this week, something felt different. This year, smaller cases are making real noise, and honestly, it's about time.
IWC answered the call with the new Ingenieur 35mm. It wears exactly how you want a vintage-inspired sport watch to wear: compact, tough, and sharp on the wrist. The integrated bracelet has a natural flow, and the 35mm sizing makes it genuinely versatile.
Then there’s A. Lange & Söhne with the new time-only 1815 in a 34mm case available in your choice of 18k pink gold or white gold cases. Smaller, thinner, lighter. Lange scaled everything perfectly — the typography, the sub-seconds, even the case thickness.
And yes, you’ve probably already heard about the latest Patek Philippe Cubitus. The Genevan company surprised everyone by downsizing last year's controversial sport watch with a new 40mm case in 18k pink gold or white gold.
Bell & Ross also surprised me. The BR-05 36mm hits that sweet spot where the brand’s signature bold design doesn't feel cartoonish. The smaller case softens the edges in the best way. And then over at Alpina, the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding charmed me. At 34mm, it leans hard into vintage vibes; it's light, fun, and built for easy wear.
Oris kept things grounded with the Big Crown 34mm. It's everything you love about Oris’ signature watch — just a little less bulky. And finally, Sinn dropped the 534 MOP 34mm. Sinn rarely goes small, but here, they did it right. It’s still rugged and toolish, but the mother-of-pearl dial gives it a dressy side I wasn’t expecting — I liked it.
Of course, not every brand hopped on the smaller-case train. Tudor went the opposite direction with the Black Bay 68 and the Pelagos Ultra, both bigger and bolder than ever. Cartier also scaled up the Tank Louis with its new Automatic version, giving fans a larger alternative if that's more to your taste.
5.) Serious Watchmaking, Soft Colors
Another trend that stood out from the moment I walked into Palexpo was that pastel dials were everywhere. Some brands went full whimsical; others kept it serious but softened the edges with color. Either way, pastels brought a fresh, unexpected energy to 2025’s biggest releases.
Rolex kicked things off loud and clear. The new-for-2025 Oyster Perpetuals in Lavender, Pistachio Green, and Beige are a pure dopamine hit. Rolex doesn’t mess around when it comes to dial colors, and both shades are crisp, clean, and quietly bold. They feel like natural extensions of the candy-colored OPs from a few years back — but more refined.
Across the hall, Laurent Ferrier reminded everyone why they’re masters of subtlety. The Classic Auto Horizon showed up in a soft blue-grey that shifts in the light. It’s not a Crayola pastel — it’s a painter’s pastel. And it proves Laurent Ferrier understands restraint better than almost anyone.
Chopard surprised me with the L.U.C Quattro in platinum. Pastel tones can feel casual, but Chopard made it sing in a high-craft package. The muted icy-blue dial, paired with the weight of platinum, creates a contrast you don’t expect — and one I can’t stop thinking about.
Over at Grand Seiko, the SBGW323 “Kiri” again stole the spotlight. The dial has this soft, silvery-lavender hue that looks alive under the light. Grand Seiko’s always nailing these poetic dial executions, and “Kiri” might be one of the prettiest ones yet. They weren't done, either. The new SLGB001 delivered an even lighter hand: a barely-there glacier blue that looks almost translucent on the wrist.
Parmigiani Fleurier kept the momentum going with the Toric QP. The perpetual calendar complication wears either a dusty rose dial or soft morning blue dial — understated, but with just enough richness to feel luxurious. Parmigiani’s quiet evolution over the past few years has been fun to watch, and this Toric proves the brand’s design language keeps getting sharper.
Oris brought some levity to the room with a series of new color options for the latest versions of the Big Crown Pointer Date. You can pick your poison between mint green and a dapper purple to terracotta orange and a bright yellow.
Meanwhile, Patek Philippe played a different game with the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001. The watch itself is a beast of technical watchmaking, but the pastel blue dial softens it just enough. It’s a flex, no question, but a soft-spoken one.
Then there’s Hublot. You expect bold moves from them, but the Big Bang Unico Chronographs in muted green and blue sapphire actually caught me off-guard — in a good way. They're still Hublots, don’t get me wrong, but these case colors give them a fresh twist.
6.) A Heavy Metal Moment (Platinum)
Walking the halls at Watches & Wonders this year, I couldn’t shake the feeling that platinum had become the material of the moment. Everywhere I turned, there was another quietly gleaming piece — here are the platinum watches that stuck with me the most.
First, Rolex. It’s not every year they shake things up this much, but the new Rolex Land Dweller Platinum felt like a mic-drop. A 40mm beast in full 950 platinum, with that familiar glacier blue dial, it carries the weight — literally and figuratively — of something important.
Chopard came in strong with two platinum releases. The L.U.C. Quattro in platinum brought classicism and technical watchmaking together, with its four-barrel, nine-day power reserve packed into a crisp, slim case. Then there was the Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, which took the brand’s modern sport watch in a stealth-luxe direction.
At Cartier, the new Tank à Guichets Oblique stopped me in my tracks. A jump hour complication dressed up in brushed platinum with a tilted dial? It’s the kind of experimental Cartier you hope to see at these shows but rarely do. Zenith joined the platinum party with the G.F.J., a tribute to Georges Favre-Jacot, the brand’s founder, as did Grand Seiko, with the Spring Drive UFA SLGB001.
Vacheron Constantin practically threw a platinum parade. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar was a knockout, mixing the brand’s signature métiers d’art finishes with heavyweight horology. But they didn’t stop there: the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, and the Traditionelle Complete Calendar Openface are also plenty complicated and in platinum, while the simpler time-only Traditionnelle Manual-Winding reminds us that sometimes less is more — especially when it’s finished this beautifully.
A. Lange & Söhne did what they do best with the Minute Repeater Perpetual in platinum. Patek Philippe stayed true to form with the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001, a clean, elegant dress watch in platinum. No drama, just a reminder of why Patek still owns this part of the market.
And lastly, Panerai’s Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT PAM01575 brought some unexpected polish to the table. A big, bold Panerai in platinum with a high complication — it sounds insane on paper, but you can't argue with the results.
Parmigiani Fleurier rounded things out with the Toric Perpetual Calendar in platinum, a follow-up to last year's revival of the classic Toric case.
7.) Complexity Takes Center Stage
I just said time-only was the big trend of the fair, didn't I? Well, it feels like brands are either focusing on perfecting three-handed simplicity or going all-in on complications.
There was plenty of serious watchmaking to be found at the fair, with one brand in particular making a statement of it.
So let’s start with the showstopper: Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.” Forty-one complications (!) packed into a 45mm by 14.99mm 18k white gold case that somehow feels wearable. It's now the world's most complicated wristwatch, fitted with everything from a chronograph and tourbillon to a Westminster minute repeater mechanism and Gregorian perpetual calendar (plus much, much more).
Patek Philippe did what Patek does: dropping the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 and the Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Ref. 6159G-001 like it was nothing. The 5308G bundles a minute repeater, chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar into one incredibly wearable piece. Meanwhile, the 6159G brings a fresh, clean look to a retrograde date layout that doesn’t overcomplicate the design. A. Lange & Söhne once again played their own game with the Minute Repeater Perpetual.
Parmigiani Fleurier made a strong case for quiet excellence with the updated Toric Perpetual Calendar. It’s refined, traditional, and executed with the kind of hand-finishing you can only appreciate when holding it under a loupe. On the other side of the price spectrum is Frederique Constant with its new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture — a lot of complication for an under-$10k price that feels downright generous.
Over at IWC, it was also the year of the perpetual calendar. The new Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month blends bold, sporty design with serious mechanical chops. And let’s not forget the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar — the return of a complicated Ingenieur just feels right.
TAG Heuer surprised me with the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph | F1. You think Monaco, you think vintage, but this? This is a pure shot of adrenaline. Ceramic case, rattrapante chronograph, skeletonized dial. It’s everything the Monaco needs to feel genuinely modern without losing its soul.
On the slightly less traditional side, NOMOS impressed me with the Club Sport Worldtimer. It’s an easy-wearing traveler’s watch that proves you don’t need to break the bank to add a complication to your daily rotation.
Other highlights? Jaeger-LeCoultre flexed its muscle with the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater and the absolutely bonkers Reverso Hybris Artistica Gyrotourbillon. Chopard’s L.U.C. Heritage EHG Moon 122 reminded me why I still believe Chopard is one of the most underappreciated names in high-end watchmaking. Roger Dubuis brought the heat with the Excalibur Grande Complication. De Bethune gave us the DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph — clean, elegant, deceptively simple. And Bovet offered the Récital 30 World Timer, with that classic Bovet romanticism baked in.
8.) Brace Yourself: New Bracelets Are Everywhere
Rolex kicked the parade of new bracelets off, as Rolex tends to do. The brand-new Land Dweller, fitted with an Oysterquartz-inspired case and state-of-the-art movement with a new escapement, was paired with an integrated bracelet design that evoked a flat-link Jubilee-style. The new Perpetual 1908 in yellow gold also comes on a brand-new bracelet, the so-called Settimo — seven rows of polished and brushed yellow gold links, silky to the touch and subtle in profile.
Grand Seiko got in on the action, too. The titanium SLGB003 keeps that sharp, angular grammar of design but adds a lightweight, multi-link bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp, a first for the brand and something that's been much demanded by Grand Seiko lovers.
A. Lange & Söhne answered prayers with the Odysseus Honeygold. Sure, the case gleams in that signature warm tone, but the big news is the integrated bracelet in matching Honeygold — tight tolerances, zero slack, and just the right heft. It feels like the Odysseus has grown into itself.
F.P. Journe typically doesn’t scream “bracelet innovation,” but the Chronomètre Furtif surprised me. It debuts with a new tungsten carbide, blacked-out bracelet that's made in-house at the brand's Les Boîtiers de Genève facility.
Chopard impressed with the weighty Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum. The case looks icy and sharp, but the bracelet — brushed platinum, razor-thin articulation — steals the show.
At Jaeger-LeCoultre, the new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds ref. Q713216J plays it classic with a Milanese bracelet in matching 18k pink gold.
And finally, Zenith celebrated its 160th anniversary with a double punch: Anniversary Editions of the Chronomaster Sport and Defy Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic. Both come on integrated ceramic bracelets.
9.) Formula One Fever
Formula One was everywhere at Watches & Wonders this year. IWC, TAG Heuer, and Tudor all went full throttle, scattering four F1 cars across three booths.
TAG Heuer officially revived its iconic original 1980/90s Formula One design while showing off two McLarens, including Ayrton Senna’s 1988 race-driven car. Perfect timing, as its parent company, LVMH, just kicked off global sponsorship of the Formula One tour earlier this year.
IWC also owned the moment. They launched the Ingenieur Automatic 40 “Movie” Limited Edition tied to the upcoming Brad Pitt F1 film, due in theaters this summer. Also in support of the movie, they released the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month and Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, plus the Chronograph APXGP and Chronograph 41 APXGP.
Tudor played it smart, showing a Red Bull Racing car and signaling the seriousness of their partnership. No new watch just yet, but the connection was obvious.
10.) Ultra-Light, Ultra-Thin
Lightness ruled this year. Everywhere I turned, it seemed like brands were pushing ultra-thin, ultra-light watchmaking to new extremes.
Ulysse Nardin’s new Diver [AIR] looks tough, but at 52 grams, it feels like nothing on the wrist. Its carbon composite case and pared-back movement strip everything down without losing the rugged diver spirit. Then there’s the Chopard Super-Light High-Frequency Alpine Eagle Limited Edition. Chopard used ceramicized titanium to create an extra lightweight case, while a high-frequency 8 Hz movement keeps it ticking with almost perfect smoothness.
Of course, once again, Bulgari had to outdo everyone. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is the new record holder for the world's slimmest tourbillon-equipped wristwatch, at just 1.85mm thick. It integrates the case and movement into a single, mind-bending plane. Holding it feels like handling a concept sketch brought to life.
My Five Favorites
- A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
- Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001
- Chopard L.U.C Quattro in Platinum
- Grand Seiko UFA Spring Drive SLGB001
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Q713216J
Honorable Mention: Rolex Land Dweller, Cartier Tank à Guichets, F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif, A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold, A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34mm, IWC Ingenieur 35mm, Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, Zenith G.F.J., NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Worldtimer, Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, Grand Seiko SBGW323 'Kiri'
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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