– By Logan Baker
Piaget's 150th anniversary in 2024 was nothing short of a blockbuster celebration, marked by milestone releases that paid tribute to its storied history.
The year began with a bang as the Polo 79 revival dazzled enthusiasts, its polished gold gadroons perfectly capturing the glamour and flair of Piaget’s heyday. But the brand wasn’t finished yet.
Just before the year came to a close, Piaget unveiled one final surprise.
In November 2024, the all-new Andy Warhol Clou de Paris made its debut, reinterpreting a classic design from the brand’s vibrant and fashion-forward era of the 1970s and ‘80s. Formerly known as the “Black Tie” collection—a favorite of Warhol himself—this updated model was introduced in collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. The pièce de résistance? A striking Clou de Paris guilloché bezel that reimagines the iconic stepped profile of the original.
While this watch served as a fitting grand finale to Piaget’s celebratory year, there’s more to the story than meets the eye. Behind the scenes, Phillips' own Aurel Bacs and Alexandre Ghotbi played an important role in shaping the design and development of this remarkable release.
Keep reading to discover how Warhol, punk rock, and a deep appreciation for Piaget's design history came together to create one of the most discussed watches of last year.
The History
Few figures loom as large in the intersection of art and style as Andy Warhol, the King of Pop Art, who not only reshaped the art world but also left his mark on the realm of high-end watchmaking.
Andy Warhol was no casual collector. His personal collection was eclectic, to say the least. A long-time friend of Yves Piaget and an avid collector of the company's timepieces, Warhol's aesthetic sensibilities seamlessly aligned with Piaget's daring approach to design.
The watch most closely associated with the artist was the so-called Black Tie, a bold creation that embodied the avant-garde design ethos of the 1970s.
Now, more than 50 years after the artist first donned the original watch, Piaget has brought Warhol's legacy to life in the form of the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris, a striking reinterpretation of this cult 1970s dress watch.
The reimagined watch isn’t a remake—Piaget has replaced the original gadroon motif with a Clou de Paris guilloché pattern, a choice that feels both retro and revolutionary.
Warhol’s own Black Tie, acquired in 1973, was a tour de force of proportions and textures. Its 45mm yellow gold cushion-shaped case, adorned with stepped gadroons and paired with a galvanized anthracite dial, was unapologetically large for its time. Inside, the legendary Beta 21 quartz movement powered the piece.
Fast forward to 2024, and the new Andy Warhol Clou de Paris channels this same spirit of boldness while refining it for a contemporary audience.
The Watch
The hallmark of the new design is the Clou de Paris guilloché pattern on the bezel.
This centuries-old decorative technique, also known as hobnail, consists of minuscule, pyramid-like shapes that catch and manipulate light. Executing this motif on the curved surfaces of a 45mm case is no small feat. In fact, Piaget’s artisans spent ten months perfecting the intricate guilloché work, ensuring that the pyramids create a dazzling interplay of light and shadow.
The result? A case that feels alive, shimmering as it transitions from one angle to another.
The stepped tiers of the Clou de Paris motif flow seamlessly into the flat, rounded square bezel, which features a brushed horizontal finish for contrast. Even the recessed crown has been carefully considered, preserving the sleek silhouette that defines the family.
The dial of the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris is as captivating as its case. Crafted from a sliver of blue meteorite, it features the natural Widmanstätten patterns unique to the material. These crisscrossing formations add texture and depth to the dial.
In keeping with its dress watch DNA, the dial is free of accouterments like a date window or seconds hand, which would muddle the design. Slim dauphine-style hands and minimalist applied indices allow the meteorite to take center stage, while the Piaget logo sits discreetly at 12 o’clock.
While the design takes the spotlight, the watch is powered by Piaget’s automatic caliber 501P1, a svelte movement that pays homage to the brand’s legacy of ultra-thin watchmaking. At just 3.63mm thick, the movement is a descendant of Piaget’s legendary 9P caliber, introduced in 1957.
In a nod to the bespoke traditions of high jewelry, Piaget is offering an array of customization options for the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris. Clients can choose from ten exotic stone dials, including malachite, lapis lazuli, and tiger’s eye, as well as between white or rose gold cases. Even the hands and hour markers can be tailored, with options for dauphine hands or baton indices.
The model featured here, featuring the blue meteorite dial and white gold case, is priced at CHF 56,000. We've paired it with a Phillips strap in grey calfskin, though the watch is delivered with a blue alligator strap (you can also choose between five different straps to personalize your purchase).
Phillips’ Involvement
As so many great watch stories do, this one begins with an acquisition.
“It all started with me being a design victim of the mid-century modern era,” recalls Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant at Phillips. “The organic, soft shapes have always appealed to me. After many debates with myself, I pulled the trigger and bought my first-ever Piaget in 2021. And it was the Andy Warhol watch—back then called the Black Tie—with a malachite dial and a white gold case.”
That initial purchase set the stage for something much bigger.
What began as Aurel's instinctive draw to a Piaget icon soon evolved into a creative journey. The story took a fascinating turn during a seemingly ordinary visit to Piaget’s flagship boutique on Geneva’s Rue du Rhône. There, he posed a question: “Is there any chance I could choose my own stone dial?”
To his delight, Piaget said yes. The result: a white gold Black Tie with a rubellite dial, in the classic case with the gadroons.
An encounter shortly after with Alexia Decaux (Head of Haute Joaillerie & High Watchmaking Products at Piaget) at a Phillips cocktail reception led to the next question: How much further can we go? Does our fantasy need to stop at the dial?
After numerous conversations, visits to the Piaget workshops, and meetings at the highest management level, the vision grew into a potential limited-edition series for Phillips’ clients and collectors, much like previous Phillips collaborations.
A defining feature emerged during these discussions: the Clou de Paris guilloché finish on the bezel. “The idea came to revive the Clou de Paris finish, one of the many signature case decorations that Piaget has mastered so wonderfully over the years,” says Aurel. “We debated whether it should have one row, two rows, or three rows of spikes.”
Interestingly, one source of inspiration for the motif came from an unexpected place: the spiked leather cuffs popular among punk rockers in the 1970s. It was a style that wouldn’t have felt out of place in Warhol’s orbit—perhaps even in the glittering chaos of Studio 54.
Ultimately, Piaget and Phillips agreed that the watch’s story deserved a wider audience. Rather than restricting production to a limited-edition run, the decision was made to release the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris as part of Piaget’s main collection.
You can learn more about the new Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris online at Piaget.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Recommended Reading
Understanding Different Types Of Enamel Dials
An In-Depth Collectors’ Guide To The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5070