The Fine Print: A Guide to the Universal Genève Polerouter

The Fine Print: A Guide to the Universal Genève Polerouter

Understanding Gérald Genta’s first masterpiece.

Understanding Gérald Genta’s first masterpiece.

Welcome to The Fine Print, our column dedicated to deep dives and detailed guides on watch collecting.


– By Logan Baker

The Universal Genève Polerouter holds a significant place in the vintage watch world. Celebrated for its timeless design, diverse range of variations, and accessible price point, the Polerouter has earned a spot in countless collections over the years.

In the past decade, we’ve seen a surge in interest surrounding vintage Polerouters—a trend that’s been exciting to watch. Even more thrilling is the recent revival of the Universal Genève brand under the stewardship of Georges Kern and the team at Breitling.

I had the privilege of spending a day in Copenhagen with the new Universal Genève team to mark a milestone: the 70th anniversary of Scandinavian Airlines System’s (SAS) historic flight over the North Pole in 1954, which resulted in the creation of the first Polerouter watches.

The 2024-introduced Universal Genève Polerouter unique piece in 18k white gold with hand-made bracelet that will be auctioned off in May 2025 at Phillips Geneva.

To celebrate this milestone, Universal Genève introduced three special-edition Polerouter SAS models, marking the brand’s first new releases in decades. Of the trio, two will be preserved in the company’s new archive and museum, while the third will be auctioned for charity in May 2025 at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXI.

This is a moment worth commemorating, so I’ve compiled a guide to the history and collectability of the Polerouter. While not an exhaustive reference to every model ever made, it’s a beginner-friendly introduction to this iconic timepiece, viewed through the lens of its rich history.

The History

It’s difficult to discuss the giants of watch design without mentioning Gérald Genta. His work, which includes the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, defines much of what we consider iconic in the world of watchmaking.

But every great legend has an origin story, and for Genta, that story began with the Universal Genève Polerouter.

A new-old-stock, circa 1960 Universal Genève Polerouter ref. 104601-1 in 18k pink gold with black dial, formerly owned by Ben Clymer, that sold for USD $24,130 at the Phillips New York Watch Auction: XI, in December 2024.

The Polerouter—originally launched as the Polarouter—was the result of a collaboration between Universal Genève and Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS). In the early 1950s, a major breakthrough in aviation occurred: the launch of a new commercial flight path over the magnetic North Pole, connecting Los Angeles and Copenhagen in record time. To commemorate this feat, SAS turned to Universal Genève with a special request for a watch.

Enter a young Gérald Genta, just 23 years old at the time. Tasked with creating a watch that honored this milestone, Genta produced a masterpiece of mid-century design that perfectly balanced elegance and functionality. Initially issued to SAS pilots and crew, the Polarouter quickly gained popularity and became commercially available. Shortly after its launch, the watch was renamed Polerouter, a move aimed at appealing to the North American market.

A circa 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter in gold-plated stainless steel, formerly owned by the actor and martial artist Bruce Lee, that sold for HKD $225,000 at the Phillips & Blackbird: SPORTS auction, in May 2019.

The Polerouter’s design embodies the spirit of aviation’s golden age: sleek, compact, and enduringly sophisticated. Its lyre-shaped lugs, minimalist dial, and interplay of polished and brushed finishes evoke the refined aesthetics of the 1950s while maintaining the rugged durability needed for high-altitude exploits.

The partnership with SAS was integral to the Polerouter’s identity, with the two companies collaborating well into the 1970s. The watch not only commemorates a groundbreaking moment in aviation history but also serves as the starting point for one of watchmaking’s most celebrated designers.

The Evolution of the Polerouter

The Polerouter family expanded quickly, becoming a flagship line for Universal Genève. From the straightforward Polerouter Date to the adventurous Polerouter Sub, the model adapted to various lifestyles and purposes.

SAS Polarouter: The earliest Polarouter models are instantly recognizable by the engraved SAS logo on the dial and were introduced in November 1954 as a duo: reference 20217-6 in stainless steel, and reference 10234-1 in 18k yellow gold. The gold model also marked the debut of the Polarouter/Polerouter De Luxe line. Polarouter watches commissioned by SAS and bearing the airline’s logo remain some of the rarest and most coveted pieces among collectors today. It's no surprise that the new Universal Genève team opted to start its contemporary collection with a tribute to these SAS-branded models. 

The 2024 Universal Genève Polerouter unique piece in stainless steel that is now in the Universal Genève archive.

Polarouter: The civilian edition of the Polarouter was introduced shortly after the SAS model’s debut. Stainless steel models were designated ref. 20217, while models with 300-micron 14k yellow gold-capped cases were assigned ref. 20214. Despite slight variations, all Polarouter models shared core design features: twisted lugs, an engine-turned ring on the dial’s periphery, a crosshair dial, and dauphine hands. Differences appeared in dial colors, retailer signatures, the presence of luminescent material, or subtle adjustments to the engine-turned ring. The Polarouter debuted with the caliber 138SS, a bumper movement offering basic functionality. Although the Polarouter name was officially changed to Polerouter after just a few months, advertisements in some markets continued to use the original name well into the early 1960s.

Polerouter ‘Bumper’: The first watches to carry the Polerouter name continued to use the bumper caliber 138SS. These updated models retained the same reference numbers as their predecessors, with an added "S" prefix: ref. S20217 for steel models, and ref. S20214 for gold-capped versions. Beyond the rebranding, the overall design saw minimal changes, though a few notable updates were introduced. The six-notch caseback was replaced with a polygonal screw-down caseback, rose-gold cases and broad-arrow hands made their debut, and subtle refinements were made to the finish of the interior dial ring.

Polerouter De Luxe: The Polerouter De Luxe range debuted alongside the original Polarouter in 1954, standing apart from the classic steel models by exclusively featuring precious metal cases. These were crafted in 18k yellow, rose, or—on rare occasions—white gold. Early De Luxe models had a distinct case design with short, straight lugs, differing from the standard Polerouter of the era. Over time, the De Luxe adopted the Polerouter’s iconic twisted lugs, coinciding with the transition from the bumper movement to Universal’s renowned microtor caliber. The De Luxe family also boasted a variety of dial treatments, ranging from painted and cloisonné enamel designs to highly textured finishes. Some rare examples even feature portraits of Arabian kings or depictions of the Arabian Peninsula, paired with Eastern Arabic numerals—a testament to Universal’s success in tailoring the watch to diverse international markets.

A circa 1957 Universal Genève Polerouter De Luxe ref. 10357-4 in 18k pink gold featuring an Arabian Peninsula dial with Yemeni Coat of Arms and Arabic-Indic numerals that sold for HKD $126,000 at the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI, in November 2020.

Polerouter ‘Microtor’: By May 1955, the Polerouter transitioned to the caliber 215, one of the earliest micro-rotor movements. This breakthrough allowed for a slimmer case profile while providing a 57-hour power reserve and high-end finishing. A date mechanism would later be incorporated, further enhancing its functionality. At just 4.1mm thick, the caliber 215 was the slimmest automatic movement in the world when it debuted. Interestingly, Universal wasn’t the first to market a micro-rotor movement. Their patent for the caliber 215 was filed nearly a year after Büren introduced the similar caliber 1000. This led to legal disputes between the two companies over patent infringement, which lasted until May 1958. During this period, Universal had to label all caliber 215 movements as “Patented Rights Pending” and pay a licensing fee to Büren for each unit produced. Despite this setback, the Polerouter became renowned for its ultra-slim micro-rotor-equipped movements. The model’s newfound thinness paved the way for an even greater variety of Polerouter wristwatches, cementing its legacy as a design and technical icon. The caliber 215 was discontinued around 1960 in favor of the caliber 218 (without date) and caliber 218-2 (with date). 

Polerouter Jet: Introduced in 1956, the Polerouter Jet was one of the first variants to follow the debut of the caliber 215. Drawing inspiration from the golden age of aviation, the Polerouter Jet’s design reflected the sleek profile of an airplane, featuring elongated lugs and an ultra-thin case. Like its predecessors, it was offered in stainless steel, 18k gold, or gold-capped cases, and was also available with a date function.

Polerouter Date: The addition of a calendar complication to the Polerouter came in 1958. With growing interest in date-equipped watches, the Polerouter Date quickly became the most popular version of the Polerouter, gradually overtaking the time-only models in prominence by the early 1960s. This popularity also made it the model with the greatest number of variations. The Polerouter Date initially retained many of the design elements of its early predecessors, but over time, features such as the inner textured ring, the crosshair dial, and the dauphine hands were gradually phased out. As the movement evolved—from the caliber 215-1 (with date) to the caliber 218, and eventually to the caliber 69—the case profile began to shift, taking on a tonneau shape that diverged from the original Polerouter design.

Polerouter Genève: The Polerouter Genève collection was introduced in 1960 as a more affordable version of the Polerouter, aimed at appealing to a younger audience. It featured a smaller, simpler case profile and was initially offered in stainless steel or gold-capped versions, with a solid gold option added later on, as well as a date-equipped model. The Polerouter Genève boasted a variety of dial designs, many of which were exclusive to this range. With the introduction of the caliber 69, the collection also included a single-piece monocoque case design, available in either stainless steel or solid 18k gold.

Polerouter Sub: One of the most significant milestones in Polerouter history occurred in 1961 with the launch of the Polerouter Sub. The original ref. 20369 was water-resistant to 200 meters and featured a 42mm case inspired by the classic dual-crown EPSA Super Compressor, complete with an interior rotating bezel. Notably, the bezel was fully lumed, which Universal Genève proudly highlighted in their marketing at the time. The collection expanded in 1964 with the introduction of the ref. 204615, a 38mm model with an external bezel, date display, and a symmetrical case design. In the years that followed, asymmetrical case designs with vibrant external bezels were added. The Polerouter Sub remained in production until 1977.

A 1967 Universal Genève Polerouter Sub ref. 869116/02 with green bezel that sold for CHF 8,750 at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: TWO, in November 2015.

Polerouter Super: Introduced in 1965, the Polerouter Super was a more rugged, sportier iteration of the Polerouter, featuring a screw-down crown, an updated caseback, and a heavy-duty crystal. It offered water resistance up to 300 meters. The Polerouter Super was always powered by the caliber 69 or one of its derivatives. There were only two available references: ref. 869112 in stainless steel, and ref. 869118 in steel with a gold bezel and crown.

Polerouter Electric: Launched in 1963, the Polerouter Electric housed the caliber UG60, an electromechanical movement originally developed by LIP as the R148. This hybrid movement combined a battery with a balance wheel, where the battery powered the balance while the hands were driven through a conventional mechanical gear train. Produced in a variety of styles—always in limited numbers—the Polerouter Electric is distinguished by its signature lightning bolt seconds hand and blue “Electric” branding on the dial, making it a unique and collectible piece in the Polerouter lineup.

Polerouter 'NS': The Polerouter "NS"—always written in quotes, even on the dial—is one of the rarest Polerouter variants. Introduced in 1965, it remained in production for only three years. Only four known variations exist, all featuring 35mm C-shaped cases and powered by the automatic caliber 69 or 1-69. While the exact meaning of "NS" remains uncertain, scholars believe it may stand for "Non-Stop," possibly referencing SAS’s acquisition of four DC-8-62 aircraft, which enabled non-stop flights between Copenhagen and Los Angeles.

Polerouter Day-Date: True to its name, the Polerouter Day-Date featured both day and date complications, displayed in separate apertures at three o’clock. This addition introduced a new movement to the Polerouter lineup: the caliber 72. Unlike the classic microtor movements (cal. 215, cal. 218-2, cal. 69), the cal. 72 featured a distinctly different bridge arrangement. The caliber 72 powered all Polerouter models with separate day and date windows throughout the late 1960s, making it a distinctive variation within the collection.

Polerouter III: Introduced in the late 1960s, the Polerouter III was a later evolution of the Universal Genève Polerouter, embracing a more modern and sporty aesthetic in line with the era’s watch trends. Departing from the traditional proportions of earlier models, it featured a larger cushion-shaped or tonneau-style case, typically measuring 36mm to 38mm in diameter. Many versions were paired with an integrated stainless-steel bracelet, enhancing its contemporary, sportier appeal. Available in various dial styles, the Polerouter III often showcased bold markers, sunburst finishes, and a modernized design compared to its predecessors. Like earlier Polerouters, it retained Universal Genève’s renowned micro-rotor movements, such as caliber 69 and its variations. However, the classic "lyre" lugs were replaced with a sleeker, more streamlined case design, reflecting the late-1960s transition toward integrated sport watches. The Polerouter III is one of the rarer and less well-documented variations of the Polerouter series.

Polerouter Compact: Introduced in the 1960s, the Polerouter Compact was a slimmer, more concise alternative to the original Polerouter. With a case diameter of approximately 33mm to 35mm, it catered to those who preferred a smaller, more wearable timepiece. Available in various styles, the Polerouter Compact often featured applied hour markers and dauphine hands. The Polerouter Compact typically used a lesser-quality movement produced by Movado, the caliber 256, equipped with a central rotor (dubbed the "Super-Microtor"). 

You can view a breakdown of many of the Polerouter references here.  

Why Collect the Polerouter?

The Polerouter is a dream piece for vintage watch enthusiasts. Its design captures the essence of mid-century style, and with its compact size (around 35mm) and clean lines, it remains effortlessly wearable today.

As Genta’s first commercially released design, the Polerouter holds significant historical importance. The introduction of the caliber 215 and its innovative micro-rotor movement was a game-changer in the 1950s, paving the way for thinner automatic watches and showcasing Universal Genève’s technical expertise.

With nearly a thousand variations, there’s a Polerouter for every collector. Whether you're drawn to the black-dialed models with broad-arrow hands or the more luxurious 18k gold-cased versions, the line offers an impressive range of options. You can even find a myriad of examples fixed with original bracelets, from the likes of Gay Frères, Jacoby-Bender, and Henry & Cie.

A 1957 Universal Genève Polerouter ref. 10'357-1 in 18k yellow gold with polychrome enamel dial featuring St. Paul, Patron Saint of Malta, that sold for CHF 32,500 at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: FOUR, in November 2016.

Though prices for vintage Polerouters have risen in recent years, they still offer a relatively accessible entry point into vintage collecting, especially when compared to the sky-high prices of other Genta-designed timepieces.

Collecting Polerouters is as much about personal preference as it is about rarity. Stainless steel models with black dials are especially coveted, as are early Polarouter pieces with SAS provenance. Features like broad arrow hands and steel chapter rings also command a premium.

What truly makes the Polerouter special, however, is its variety.

There’s no definitive “best” version—only the one that resonates with you. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just starting your horological journey, the Polerouter is a watch that deserves a place on your wrist—and in your personal story.

This article couldn't have existed without The Polerouter book by Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi.


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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About Logan Baker

Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He's based in Geneva, Switzerland.


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