Gem-set wristwatches live in a world of their own, one filled with opulence, artistry, and, in many cases, intense polarization. Unlike most timepieces where the complexity of the movement or the refinement of the dial finish might draw aficionados in, gem-set watches appeal to a collector's desire for luxury, aesthetics, and rarity—traits that many watchmakers have honed over decades, even centuries. Yet, beyond the glitter, gem-set watches embody an art form that blends traditional watchmaking with the craft of high jewelry, creating pieces that are more than just "bling."
For most collectors, gem-set pieces don’t fit the typical “grail” mold. They’re far removed from the utilitarian purpose that first drew many into the world of watches, such as the durability of a Rolex Submariner or the precision of an Omega Speedmaster. Gem-set watches are unapologetically about decoration, about elevating a timepiece from something you might use to something that feels almost ceremonial. At the same time, their presence in collections has grown significantly, with brands from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille offering gemstone-set versions of their most iconic pieces, sometimes even to the surprise of purist collectors.
Lot 829
The alluring mystery behind the original Cartier Crash, first released in 1967, has captivated watch enthusiasts for decades. With its fluid, asymmetrical form and captivating backstory, the Crash shattered conventions and introduced an entirely new design language to watchmaking. The distinctive warped case and mesmerizing art deco dial exude avant-garde elegance in one surreal piece.
Produced in a limited edition of 267 pieces in 2014, the present Crash ref. 3618 is the last piece to be made and it is further elevated by a sumptuous pink gold case and pave diamond bezel. Complemented by a full pink gold bracelet, a configuration rarely seen with the Crash, this example takes the iconic design to dazzling new heights. Offered in barely worn condition and accompanied by its full set of accessories, this limited edition modern take upholds the rich innovations and fearless creativity that run through Cartier's DNA.
Lot 833
While most models featured a yellow gold case paired with a yellow gold bezel and champagne dial, some extremely rare iterations were fitted with diamond bezels, pavé diamonds, and colorful enamel dials. The “Carousel dials” of the ref. 18348 are among the rarest Day-Dates ever produced by Rolex. Among these, only a handful of iterations showcase the unusual and seldom-seen white enamel. Unlike the more commonly encountered green, blue, and red enamel, the elegant white enamel is tailored for purist collectors.
This particular example is well-preserved, with its caseback retaining its green sticker. With only a limited number of combinations like this have appeared on the market for the ref. 18348, it is a true sight to behold. Accompanied by a full set of accessories originating from the United States, this watch is sure to impress dedicated Day-Date collectors seeking something truly exciting in both rarity and state of preservation.
Lot 855
Since its launch, the Lange 1 has served as a blank canvas for various complications, appealing to a diverse audience. While the moon phases complication has always been poetic, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase elevates this concept to new heights. Designed primarily for the ladies' market, it features a refined case size of 36.8mm, which wears elegantly on the wrist.
What truly sets this model apart is its stunning dial, resembling a dark blue night sky. The watch is fitted with a solid silver dial coated with a thin layer of aventurine glass filled with microscopic copper oxide crystals. This unique coating creates mesmerizing visual depth and a subtle shimmer. Continuing the celestial theme, the hour markers are crafted as tiny white gold stars, while the moon phase disc features an applied white gold moon, adding an extra touch of glamour.
Enhancing its allure, the bezel is adorned with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling 1.2 carats, providing an additional dazzling touch. Presented in hardly worn condition, this watch is rarely seen on the market and comes complete with all its accessories.
Lot 958
With the recent resurgence in demand for uniquely shaped watches, Cartier timepieces have become more sought-after than ever, with the Cartier Crash leading the way. Debuting in 1967, the Crash is considered one of the most groundbreaking designs in the watchmaking world, with a backstory that is both intriguing and romantic. Its origins were clarified in 2019 by Francesca Cartier Brickell in her book, The Cartiers, where she details a conversation with her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, about the design’s inception. At the time Jean-Jacques Cartier was the head of Cartier London, and along with Rupert Emmerson, they modified a Maxi Baignoire Alongée into one of the most unique shapes ever created.
Fitted with an elegant egg-shell like white dial with classic black Roman numerals, the watch is tastefully embellished with 3 rows of diamonds throughout the white gold case and a diamond cabochon. Produced in circa 1999, the dial features an inscription with PARIS instead of the later MADE IN FRANCE. Perfectly exemplifying “king of jewellers and jewellery of kings”, the present diamond-set Cartier Crash will be a forever icon.
Lot 961
Chinese mythical creatures with extraordinary capabilities and divine characteristics has inspired generations of craftsmen. A majestic creature, dragons populate Cartier’s creation in variety of forms and status such as guardians, and power form like the Imperial dragon. Introduced as the Cartier d’Art collection inspired by Chinese and Russian works of art where only a small quantity are released per year, the present Flying dragon is from circa 2006.
Extravagantly wrapping itself around the Santos 100's gold body, a red headed dragon triumph through the golden sky executed in champlevé enamel. It is notable that enamel works that extends beyond the dial are a rarity in Cartier’s collection. Its creation requires the most skillful master enamellers performing multiple firings and attempts to produce a single example. Produced in 25 pieces only, the present example is numbered 13 and fresh-to-the-market with its certificate and accessories. This is the perfect watch for the year of the Dragon for individuals who favours tradition and craftsmanship.
Lot 967
In 2016, Richard Mille introduced the RM67-01, a model that marked a departure from the brand's traditionally bulkier cases. This slim tonneau-shaped reference quickly gained traction with its enhanced wearability and has become one of the most highly sought-after Richard Mille references in recent years. Inside one of the sleekest tonneau-shaped Richard Mille, it features a skeletonized dial with the brand's signature Arabic numerals and a digital date display at the 5 o'clock position, embodying the Mille design language with a sense of visual depth.
The present example is part of the more elegant configuration of the RM67-01, featuring a pink gold case set with 8 rows of diamond settings that run from the top to the bottom of the case, known to collectors as the "half diamond-set" version. This rare and desirable configuration is highly coveted by collectors today, as it combines the brand's technical prowess with a touch of luxurious refinement. Offered in "like-new" condition from circa 2022, this RM67-01 RG comes complete with its full set of accessories, presenting a great opportunity for collectors to acquire this exceptional and versatile timepiece.
Lot 968
Launched in 2019, the Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s own unique interpretation of the luxury sports watch, inspired by the grace of the eagle and the majesty of the Alps. The Alpine Eagle was first introduced in stainless steel with a robust design featuring an integrated bracelet, an angular case and a rounded bezel with eight screws.
The present pink gold Alpine Eagle is a distinctive piece infused with a unique aura of splendour, distinguished by the exquisite gold dial set with 236 pavé diamonds, and a tantalising sapphire-set bezel with 36 rainbow sapphires, bringing together Chopard’s artisanal expertise and craftsmanship in both haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie. Elevating its charm, the dial features luminous-filled applied gold Roman numerals that perfectly complements the sparkling diamonds and sapphires. Fitted with the signature Alpine Eagle bracelet, the timepiece sits comfortably and exerts a pleasant weight on the wrist. Powered by the automatic calibre 01.01-C, the watch beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a hefty 60 hours of power reserve.
Preserved in impressive condition, the present specimen still has the original factory sticker on the sapphire case back and partial factory stickers on the upper right lug. Further accompanied by its complete set of accessories, the present Rainbow Chopard Alpine Eagle in pink gold is a marvellous timepiece perfect for a glamourous night out and should not be missed by the discerning collectors.
Lot 969
An ode to femininity, the Girard-Perregaux Cat's Eye enhances the iconic Tourbillon with Gold Bridge to captivate lovers of fine watchmaking. This exquisite timepiece seamlessly combines Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie, resulting in a sublime diamond-set wristwatch that appears to be crafted entirely from stunning, eye-catching diamonds.
Its iconic oval case in white gold is lavishly adorned with baguette-cut diamonds that extend gracefully from the bezel to the caseband and even the lugs. The distinctive curve of the case houses a breathtaking dial, also encrusted with diamonds. While the brand name is absent from the dial, the radiant pattern emanates from the iconic Girard-Perregaux tourbillon carriage, one of the most elegant and artistic complications ever created.
With over 250 diamonds embellishing the case, approximately 15 carats of calibre-cut stones radiate light from every angle. Colour graded around E to F in whiteness, these exceptionally high-quality precious stones are a sight to behold. Each stone is cut to perfection, and this Girard-Perregaux is offered at a fraction of its retail price. With additional diamonds adorning the clasp, it serves as the ultimate ladies’ watch for a fancy night out, destined to be the centerpiece of any ballroom setting.
Lot 982
Among Patek Philippe's enduring classics, the Golden Ellipse stands apart for its distinctive case shape. Launched in 1968, the collection takes inspiration from the "Golden Ratio" - the Divine Proportion that guided the masterworks of Da Vinci and Greek antiquity. By shaping the case into an ellipse derived from this mathematical principle, Patek Philippe captured geometric perfection upon the wrist.
The present ref. 3745/5 from 1984 embodies the collection's mathematical elegance through its rare horizontal orientation. The elliptical form creates soft contour, with integrated 18K white gold bracelet gracefully wrapping the wrist, while the diamond-set bezel and indexes provide delicate shimmer, contrasting with a captivating blue sunburst dial. The timepiece certainly stands out and can even be worn as a piece of jewelry.
Over a half-century since its debut, the Golden Ellipse retains its mystique and allure. This example is kept in exceptional condition with its full set of accessories which is not easy to come across. For the discerning lady collector, it promises graceful distinction on the wrist.
Lot 996
Since the beginning of the 17th century, enameling has been used to adorn watch cases and dials. Requiring extreme precision, concentration and meticulous artisanal craftsmanship, miniature enamelling is a complex art form that few artisans can master today, making it an endangered craft. Based on silica sand, enamel is a transparent material that is colored via metal oxides crushed into fine power and mixed with water to create a paste. Once applied on the dial surface and dried, it is inserted inside a kiln and heated with extremely high temperatures exceeding 800°C. The slightest imperfection developed during the heating process would mean that the dial has to be redone again, until the perfect dial is achieved and thoroughly examined before it can be encased in a Patek Philippe case.
Introduced at the Baselworld 2017, the Patek Philippe ref. 5077/100R-031 features an intricate polychrome miniature enamel dial depicting a pair of colourful Roller birds amidst a sea of blossoming pink Wisteria flowers and green leaves on the backdrop. The superb touch of the enamel artist beautifully captures the soft feathers, flower petals and leaves with naturalistic brush strokes and mesmerizing colour combination. The layering of the purple tone accentuates the depth of the dial and imbues a vivid and lively atmosphere to the natural scene, with the purple color resonated with the matching purple crocodile strap. The diamond-set bezel, lugs and pin buckle of the timepiece further add to the glamor of the timepiece, making it a true prized gem for collectors.
Presented in excellent overall condition, this artisanal piece gives a beautiful presence on the wrist, and it is a fantastic opportunity for lovers and collectors of enamel timepieces to acquire a dazzling, attractive and rare example intricately crafted by the master enamellers of Patek Philippe.
Lot 997
To commemorate the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe, the firm released a new collection of limited edition watches including a grand complicated repeater, a series of multi-scale chronographs and a world time with moon phase watch made in both men’s and women’s models. Released in a limited edition of 450 pieces, the lady’s reference 7175R-001 is distinguished by its sublime 38mm pink gold case, which is a modern interpretation of Louis Cottier’s ingenious invention that features larger case size and lyre-shaped lugs.
As women’s interest in horology has grown significantly over the last 20 years, brands now look to these important tastemakers, seeking to give them the same complicated timepieces men desire but with a feminine touch that can be easily dressed up or down. Both tastefully executed and technically sound, the present wristwatch is precisely that and is offered in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its complete set of original accessories.
Lot 1028
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona has undoubtedly become one of the most iconic timepieces in the world of horology since its introduction in 1963. While traditionally manufactured in stainless steel, Rolex has also produced variants in gold cases, as well as rare examples with gem-setting, particularly during the 1980s. However, the true emergence of serially produced diamond-set Daytonas came with the launch of the Zenith El Primero-based reference 16520 series. This marked a significant shift, as Rolex, renowned for its robust and stainless steel sports watches, began to cater to VIP collectors with more extravagant and gem-set options.
The Daytona ref. 11659912SA showcases this opulent side of their chronograph lineage. Encased in a sleek white gold case, the bezel is adorned with 48 baguette-cut diamonds, along with 12 sapphire hour markers – hence the "12SA" in the reference number. This stunning gem-setting is further complemented by a fully pavéd diamond dial with blue enamel crown and Roman numerals, which beautifully corresponds to the sapphires on the bezel. Completing the overall glamorous appearance, the watch features diamond-set endlinks which extended the elegance from the dial and bezel.
Preserved in excellent overall condition and accompanied by its full set of certificate and presentation box, and having been serviced by Rolex in October 2022, this exceptional timepiece offers a distinguished and rare opportunity for discerning collectors to own an off-catalogue Daytona from Rolex.
Lot 1029
Introduced in 2011, the reference 5298 perpetuates the heritage of the classic Patek Philippe Calatrava collection with its simple and elegant design. The present platinum example is embellished with 44 baguette diamonds on the bezel, totaling 3.87 carats. Fitted with a black date wheel, the flawless black lacquered dial matches seamlessly with the dazzling baguette and square-cut diamond indexes. The watch is also complemented by a platinum diamond-set Patek Philippe Henri Stern pin buckle, and is adorned with a small flawless diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock, marking it as a Patek Philippe platinum watch.
The reference 5298 remained in Patek Philippe’s catalogue until 2016. To the best of our knowledge, only approximately 5 examples of reference 5298P with a black dial have appeared publicly on the market to date, attesting to the rarity of this discontinued reference. Preserved in exceptional condition, and complete with full set of original accessories, the present timepiece is precisely the perfect dress watch for the modern watch connoisseur.