The culture of watch collecting has long had a home in Japan.
The country’s domestic watchmakers, whether large and small, are beloved internationally, while European watch companies have regularly courted local collectors with dedicated releases. For instance, it’s said that more than half of Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity were first sold to Japanese collectors.
Japan’s thriving watch culture is being recognized today with the announcement of "TOKI (刻)” by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, the first-ever thematic live auction dedicated to the Japanese watch collecting world. Taking place in Hong Kong this November, the sale will be held at Phillips’ Asia headquarters in the West Kowloon Cultural District alongside the Hong Kong Watch Auction XIX.
The “TOKI (刻)” thematic sale will feature important watches by leading global brands made exclusively for the Japanese market, as well as timepieces previously owned by Japanese collectors and unique pieces created by Japanese independent watchmakers.
"I've worked about 20 years in the watch auction industry, and in that time I've seen a dramatic change in the watch market," says Kaz Fujimoto, Phillips Watches' Japan-based representative. "Today we see a lot of good quality, full-set watches coming out of Japan that achieve very strong results at auction. We've also seen a large growth in international popularity for Japanese brands, like Seiko, and Japanese independent watchmakers, such as Hajime Asaoka and Naoya Hida. We came up with the idea for this sale last November while celebrating the results of the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII; I then spoke with a number of different collectors in Japan who all agreed it was a good idea."
Among the highlights from distinguished Japanese collectors is the Patek Philippe ref. 5016 in platinum. This wristwatch combines the tourbillon, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar within its Calatrava-style case made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, complete with a moon phase display. Notably, the present example is accompanied by a previously unknown grey Roman numerals dial, the only known example of this configuration that has appeared on the market.
Coming to auction for the first time, this Roger Smith Series 2 is number four of the extremely rare and elegant white gold series 2 Edition 3, of which only five were made. Roger Smith, who spent many years working alongside the legendary British watchmaker George Daniels, showcases their shared horological mastery within this watch’s elegant 38mm case. Features include hand-engraved plates, frosted finishes, and an engine-turned solid silver dial. The immaculate English-finished plates and bridges epitomize Smith's technical brilliance, following in Daniels' footsteps. It is offered with a full set of accessories and its certificate, confirming delivery to a Japanese collector in 2013.
The Opus series led to groundbreaking collaborations between Harry Winston and numerous independent watchmakers, including F.P. Journe. Launched in 2001, this joint project resulted in the creation of 18 one-of-a-kind timepieces, including six versions of the Resonance, six examples of the Tourbillon, and six unique pieces with a five-day power reserve, one of which is the present example. The unique Opus One reference 200/MAFPJ38P offered in this sale is one of the earliest creations from F.P. Journe. This example is distinguished by its desirable brass movement and stunning green textured dial, displaying Journe’s signature asymmetric layout combining date, hours, minutes, and small seconds. The iconic Opus swiveling lugs, inspired by the pillars of the Harry Winston flagship boutique in New York, complement this design beautifully.
Reflecting on the vintage watch boom in Japan during the 1990s, Rolex’s professional models stand out as iconic timepieces of that era. The Paul Newman dial of the Cosmograph Daytona, which ignited the boom, marked a significant shift in the criteria for evaluating watches in the secondary market from the 1990s to today. Fresh-to-market, the present Rolex ref. 6264 is an exceptionally rare example featuring the caliber 727. It is instantly recognizable with its creamy white backdrop and the “DAYTONA” insignia prominently displayed at the top of the register at six o’clock. This “Paul Newman” dial boasts attractive luminous plots that have aged uniformly to a buttery hue. This watch comes with an original warranty, Rolex Japan service papers, and a box.
In Japan, awareness of independent watch brands has significantly increased over the past decade. Independent watchmakers Masahiro Kikuno and Hajime Asaoka gained significant attention after they joined The Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). In recent years, a new wave of independent watchmakers has emerged in Japan, establishing their own brands. Notable watchmakers under Precision Watch Tokyo Co. include Jiro Katayama, a product designer known for his work in car design, who founded Otsuka Lotec in 2012. In 2018, Hajime Asaoka launched Kurono Tokyo, which is also now part of Precision Watch Tokyo Co. Around the same time, Naoya Hida established NH WATCH. Despite being relatively new, these brands have gained significant acclaim among collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. Their success has sparked a further wave of new independent brands launching in recent years. For instance, Masa’s Pastime, founded by Masa Nakajima and known for repairing and selling vintage pocket watches, has ventured into producing its own line of watches led by young watchmaker Nayuta Shinohara. Phillips is honored to present a few unique pieces created by these talented watchmakers solely for the TOKI: Watch Auction this November.
Japanese Independent Watchmakers: Precision Watch Tokyo Co., Ltd. Noto Charity
On 1 January 2024, a magnitude 7.6 earthquake struck the Noto Peninsula in Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan. As a result, Wajima-nuri (a distinguished example of Japanese lacquerware), a traditional craft for which Wajima City in Ishikawa Prefecture is renowned, also suffered devastating damage. In response to this crisis, Precision Watch Tokyo Co. Ltd. has decided to contribute to the revival of Wajima-nuri, which is facing the threat of extinction, by offering below three unique pieces in this auction and donating the entire proceeds.
At his intimate atelier in Tokyo's Otsuka neighborhood, independent watchmaker Jiro Katayama designs timepieces that exude retro analog charm. Inspired by mid-20th century industrial aesthetics, his "low-tech" Otsuka Lotec brand stems from small-batch production, with Katayama hand-crafting each watch himself from start to finish. Initially working in the automotive industry as a car designer, an unexpected auction purchase of a lathe machine led Katayama into watchmaking. The present No.6 is a one-of-a-kind piece made exclusively for the TOKI sale. Named “SHINONOME”, it refers to the sky just before dawn, when the sun begins to rise. Adopting a semi-skeletonized dial and a blackened stainless- steel case, the timepiece is incredibly striking for its minimalistic design. With imaginative engineering and scrupulous finishing, this analog inspired timepiece revives mid-century aesthetics within a refined contemporary frame. Currently, Otsuka Lotec is only available in Japan, making the present watch an exceptionally rare opportunity for collectors worldwide to acquire a unique piece made by Mr. Katayama.
Founded by Takano Kotaro in Nagoya in 1899, Takano initially specialized in clockmaking. The Takano brand produced wristwatches from 1957 to 1962, ceasing operations when the original factory was reportedly destroyed in a typhoon. Today, while the Takano trademark is owned by the Ricoh Corporation, Hajime Asaoka’s company Precision Watch Tokyo Co. has signed a license agreement to use the brand name. The current Chateau Nouvel Chronometer is thin and remarkably accurate. It is also notable for being the first Japanese watch to receive chronometer certification from the Besancon Observatory in France in the 21st century. The steel case is mirror-polished using the “Zaratsu” technique, resulting in distortion-free surfaces. The regular production pieces are available with either black or white dials; however, Phillips Watches has partnered with Hajime Asaoka to create a unique piece, with the dial color being a mesmerizing traditional Japanese hue known as “toki iro” (the color of the Asian Crested Ibis), crafted by Master Asaoka himself. This auspicious bird, with feathers reminiscent of a rising sun, symbolizes happiness and good fortune in Japanese culture, making it the perfect choice for the brand’s auction debut.
Kurono Tokyo’s “Grand” series pays homage to traditional Asian craftsmanship with its incredible Urushi lacquered dials. This ancient lacquer technique utilizes the filtered sap of the lacquer tree, a miraculous substance that absorbs moisture from the air as it hardens, resulting in a perpetually shiny and slick surface. Over time, Urushi becomes harder and more scratch-resistant, with the curing process continuing even after initial manufacture. The lacquer brightens with age as it loses moisture, which is a transformation that can take years. Also depending on the environment, the Urushi dial may change color, creating a unique piece if its own. The present Grand Niji “虹” is a unique piece made for the TOKI: Watch Auction. While past Kurono timepieces have been crafted in stainless steel, this watch is elegantly made in 18K pink gold. The dial is a marvel to behold, featuring layers of rainbow-colored Urushi crafted by Megumi Shimamoto, who has previously worked on Kurono's Urushi dials.