Why Pocket Watches Deserve a Place in Your Collection

Why Pocket Watches Deserve a Place in Your Collection

For those who know that good style doesn’t need to be worn on a sleeve.

For those who know that good style doesn’t need to be worn on a sleeve.

By Logan Baker

Collecting pocket watches is more than just acquiring timepieces; it’s about preserving history, appreciating craftsmanship, and indulging in the elegance of a bygone era.

These intricate devices offer a window into the technological advancements and social customs of past centuries. Whether you are a seasoned horologist or a novice with an eye for beauty, pocket watches present a unique and rewarding collecting experience.

A 1924 Patek Philippe minute repeating, split-seconds chronograph pocket watch, retailed by Tiffany & Co., that sold for HKD $240,000 at the Phillips Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction.

Pocket watches have played a crucial role in the history of timekeeping and have been essential to the development of modern wristwatches. They first gained popularity in the 17th century, when the ability to carry time in one’s pocket was a luxury reserved for the wealthy and influential. These early timepieces were marvels of miniaturization, representing the cutting-edge technology of their time. By collecting pocket watches, one essentially collects pieces of history. Each watch tells a story, not just of the people who owned and used it, but also of the era in which it was made. For instance, a pocket watch from the Victorian era might reflect the opulence and strict social codes of the time, with ornate engravings and elaborate designs.

The legendary, one-of-a-kind Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen Oval Pocket Watch, from the private collection of Dr. Helmut Crott, included in the upcoming Phillips RELOADED thematic auction, on November 8, 2024.

Conversely, a military-issued trench watch from the World War I era would emphasize practicality and durability, reflecting the harsh realities of the time. Moreover, the evolution of pocket watches mirrors significant milestones in history. The transition from key-wound watches to stem-wound models in the 19th century, for example, marked a significant leap in user convenience. Similarly, the advent of railroad pocket watches, with their strict accuracy standards, was a response to the need for precise timekeeping in an age when rail travel was revolutionizing society. By studying and collecting these timepieces, one can gain a deeper understanding of how technological advancements were driven by, and in turn influenced, broader historical trends.

One of the most compelling reasons to collect pocket watches is the sheer mechanical brilliance they represent. Unlike modern quartz or digital watches, which rely on electronic components, pocket watches are masterpieces of mechanical engineering. Their intricate movements, consisting of hundreds of tiny components working in perfect harmony, are a testament to human ingenuity and precision. The heart of a pocket watch is its movement. Each component, from the mainspring that stores energy to the escapement that regulates its release, is a work of art.

A 1924 Patek Philippe minute repeating, split-seconds chronograph pocket watch, retailed by Tiffany & Co., that sold for HKD $240,000 at the Phillips Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction.

The level of skill required to assemble and regulate these movements by hand is extraordinary. In addition to their technical complexity, pocket watches also showcase a variety of horological innovations. The development of the tourbillon, for example, was an attempt to improve the accuracy of timepieces by counteracting the effects of gravity. Other complications, such as minute repeaters, chronographs, and perpetual calendars, further demonstrate the technical prowess of watchmakers. Collecting pocket watches allows one to appreciate these mechanical feats up close, fostering a deep respect for the art and science of horology.

Beyond their historical and mechanical significance, pocket watches are also valued for their aesthetic appeal. The artistry involved in creating these timepieces extends far beyond the movement; it includes the design of the case, dial, hands, and even the chain. Many pocket watches feature intricate engravings, enamel work, or inlays of precious metals and gemstones, making them not just functional objects but also works of art. The variety of designs available to collectors is staggering. From the understated elegance of a classic railroad watch to the lavish decoration of a gold-cased repeater, there is a pocket watch to suit every taste. The materials used in their construction also contribute to their beauty and collectability. Cases may be made of gold, silver, or platinum, while dials can feature everything from simple Roman numerals to elaborate hand-painted scenes. For those with an eye for detail, the craftsmanship that goes into the finishing of a pocket watch is particularly appealing. Even the movement, which is often hidden from view, can be exquisitely decorated with Geneva stripes, perlage, or hand-engraving, demonstrating the watchmaker’s dedication to their craft.

The legendary, one-of-a-kind Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen Oval Pocket Watch, from the private collection of Dr. Helmut Crott, included in the upcoming Phillips RELOADED thematic auction, on November 8, 2024.

While the intrinsic value of collecting pocket watches lies in their historical, mechanical, and aesthetic qualities, there is also a financial aspect to consider. Certain brands, such as Patek Philippe, Breguet, and Vacheron Constantin, are particularly sought after by collectors and can command high prices at auction. For instance, a pocket watch owned by a historical figure or a watch that played a role in a significant event can fetch a premium due to its unique story. Unlike some modern consumer goods, which depreciate rapidly, well- maintained pocket watches can retain or even increase their value over time.

In an age of mass production and disposable goods, collecting pocket watches is also a way to preserve traditional craftsmanship. Many of the techniques used to create these timepieces are dying arts, with fewer artisans trained in the skills required to make or repair mechanical watches. By collecting and caring for pocket watches, one helps to keep these crafts alive, ensuring that future generations can continue to appreciate and learn from them. Restoring and maintaining pocket watches often requires the expertise of skilled watchmakers who understand the intricacies of these mechanical marvels. This hands-on aspect of collecting can be particularly rewarding, as it allows collectors to engage directly with the objects of their passion. Whether it’s sourcing original parts, repairing a damaged movement, or simply keeping a watch in good working order, the care and attention given to these timepieces help to preserve them for the future.

Furthermore, collecting pocket watches can foster a sense of connection with the past, as each watch represents the culmination of a craftsman’s skill and dedication. In a world where so much is digital and ephemeral, the tangible, mechanical nature of a pocket watch is a reminder of the value of handmade objects and the artistry involved in their creation. Ultimately, the most compelling reason to collect pocket watches is the personal satisfaction and joy they bring. Each watch is a unique object with its own story, and the process of discovering, acquiring, and learning about these timepieces can be immensely rewarding. Whether it’s tracking down a rare model, learning about the history of a particular watchmaker, or simply appreciating the beauty of a finely crafted movement, collecting pocket watches offers endless opportunities for exploration and discovery.

The incredible, unique 1998 Roger Smith Pocket Watch No. 2 that sold for a remarkable USD $4,900,000 at the Phillips New York Watch Auction: EIGHT, in June 2023.

Building a collection also allows one to express their personal tastes and interests. Some collectors may focus on watches from a specific period, brand, or style, while others might seek out unusual complications or designs. The diversity within the world of pocket watches means that no two collections are alike, and each one reflects the individuality of its owner. Moreover, the community of pocket watch collectors is a passionate and knowledgeable one, offering opportunities for sharing information, trading watches, and making connections with like-minded individuals. Whether through attending watch fairs, participating in online forums, or joining horological societies, collectors can find a sense of camaraderie and mutual support within this niche interest.

Collecting pocket watches is a multifaceted pursuit that offers a unique combination of history, craftsmanship, beauty, and personal satisfaction. These timepieces are not just functional objects but also symbols of human ingenuity and artistic expression. Whether one is drawn to their historical significance, mechanical complexity, or aesthetic appeal, pocket watches provide a rich and rewarding collecting experience. In an era of fleeting digital technology, pocket watches stand as enduring reminders of a time when craftsmanship and attention to detail were paramount, making them well worth collecting and cherishing.

You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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