Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring more than 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the Pascal Coyon Chronomètre Series 1 featured below.
– By Logan Baker
Over the past decade, a fresh wave of independent watchmakers has emerged, reviving classical horological values while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of what it means to be a craftsperson in this industry.
Among them is Pascal Coyon, a watch and clock repairer based in Bayonne, in the southwest of France. Known for his beautifully crafted, traditionally inspired wristwatches, Coyon is part of a burgeoning movement that emphasizes meticulous craftsmanship, classical aesthetics, and affordability – a trifecta that has made his work a darling among collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Pascal Coyon's journey into watchmaking is rooted in his background as a restorationist, a role that has imparted him with a profound understanding of both the mechanical intricacies and historical heritage of timepieces. Around 2012, armed with years of expertise and a growing desire to create something truly his own, Coyon embarked on a journey to develop a chronometer wristwatch that would stand out for its superlative finishing and classic appeal.
A year and a half later, his first prototype was born, marking the beginning of his entry into the world of independent watchmaking.
Coyon's watches are a marriage of tradition and technical prowess. Inspired by 20th-century pocket watch movements, celebrated for their robustness and reliability, Coyon set out to create a wristwatch that embodied these qualities. He started by using the Unitas 6498 as a base for his movement – a tried-and-tested workhorse caliber often favored by watchmakers for its large size and reliable construction.
But Coyon’s approach to the Unitas 6498 was anything but ordinary. His modifications were so extensive and intricate that the original movement became virtually unrecognizable. The result? The caliber 1900, a manual-wind movement that combines classical aesthetics with a modern-day execution.
While many independent watchmakers focus on designing unique dials or cases, Coyon's passion lies in the heart of the watch: the movement. His movements are clearly inspired by the era of early 20th-century pocket watches, but a closer inspection reveals a level of finish and decoration that is rarely seen at his price point.
Coyon’s movement modifications are centered around aesthetics and performance.
The movement is meticulously decorated with elegantly curved bridges and polished angles that catch and play with light. The sandblasted finish throughout gives the movement a matte, almost frosted look, which contrasts beautifully with the polished elements. One of the most distinctive features of Coyon’s work is the comma-shaped regulator index, designed for micrometric adjustment. This small but crucial detail showcases Coyon’s commitment to precision, blending utility with an artistic touch.
The pièce de résistance of the movement, however, is the viper head stamped at the base of the balance cock. This hallmark – the Tête de Vipère – signifies that the watch has undergone the rigorous Besançon Observatory trials, an accolade that attests to the watch's chronometric excellence.
The Besançon Observatory trials, for reference, are the French equivalent of the COSC certification in Switzerland but with arguably even more stringent standards. Achieving this certification is a genuine badge of honor, reflecting both the skill of the watchmaker and the precision of the timepiece.
Coyon’s first collection is not only a tribute to classic horology but also a study in exclusivity. He produced just 60 movements in total, spread across three distinct finishes: 20 in yellow, 20 in pink, and 20 in silver.
The attention to detail extends beyond the movement and into the dial work. Coyon opted for a simple yet elegant white lacquer dial, adding a layer of vintage charm. Collectors had the choice of a dial with or without a red “12” (you'll see both pictured here), a stylistic feature that pays homage to pocket watches of the past.
The present example, part of the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, offered by its original owner, is in excellent condition and comes complete with its full set of accessories. It carries an estimate set between CHF 5,000 and 10,000. It's only the second Pascal Coyon wristwatch we've had the pleasure to offer in an auction, following a similar Chronomètre Series 1 that sold for CHF 21,420 at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, in November 2021.
In an industry often dominated by Swiss heavyweights, Coyon is carving out a niche that places French craftsmanship on the global horological map. His dedication to producing hand-finished timepieces at a relatively affordable price challenges the notion that high-quality mechanical watches must come with an exorbitant price tag.
By combining time-honored techniques with contemporary sensibilities, Coyon creates watches that resonate with a new generation of collectors who value authenticity, heritage, and a story.
More recently, Pascal Coyon introduced his Chronomètre Series 2, an updated take on his Series 1 design that was announced in late 2019 and featured an improved in-house movement and new dial options, for a price of €30,500.
You can view the complete Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction catalog here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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