Our final live auction of the fall 2023 season is here. The PHILLIPS New York Watch Auction: NINE takes place on December 9 and 10, at our New York headquarters. The auction includes more than 150 of the world's finest watches – the following are the top selections from members of our New York-based watch department.
Lot 89: A 1950 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 1518 In 18k Rose Gold
Estimate: USD $1,200,000 - 2,400,000
Paul Boutros, Head Of Watches, The Americas
I first encountered lot 89, our Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in 18 karat rose gold, about a half a dozen years ago, when the consignor, one of the world’s most important Patek Philippe collectors, showed me its photo on his smartphone. From the one picture he shared, I knew immediately the watch was of exceptional quality and held out hope that I’d one day be able to see it in person. Fast forward a few years, I was invited to his home to view watches from his collection. I was privy to some of the amazing pieces he’d collected over the course of decades. Tray-by-tray, in increasing order of importance, I couldn’t believe the treasures I was being shown. Finally, in the very last tray, alongside some of the most incredible, and even unique, complicated vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches, the 1518 was in front of me.
Its quality and condition were beyond my expectations – a stunning dial and the best-preserved case on a reference 1518 that I’d ever seen. Perfectly crisp hallmarks, sharp spring bar holes on its lugs, factory brushed finishing preserved on its central caseband, and magnificent vertical and horizontal edges on the base and cap of its concave bezel. No doubt never polished, and certainly hardly ever worn, I knew this would be the benchmark upon which I will now judge all other reference 1518 cases.
The perpetual calendar chronograph is widely regarded as Patek Philippe’s signature model, in continuous production through the present day since its launch in 1941. Produced in only approximately 280 examples in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel from 1941 to 1954, the reference 1518 is the rarest of all perpetual chronograph models produced by the firm. Out of these, less than 40 are known in pink gold making them exceptionally rare, and far fewer have been preserved in such outstanding condition.
We are thrilled and honored to have been entrusted with the sale of this extraordinary example dating to 1950. It’s one of the finest examples known to the market, having last appeared in public since it was sold at auction for the first time in the year 2000. It has remained in the identical state of preservation since then, cherished by the consignor since then and until now. For those seeking an ultimate trophy watch to crown a collection of world-class wristwatches, this pink gold Patek Philippe reference 1518 is a most compelling candidate.
Lot 105A: A Grönefeld 1941 Special Principia Edition With Meteorite Dial
Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
Isabella Proia, Head Of Sale, New York
This was the last lot we squeezed into the sale – which is why it has an “A” at the end – and one that I had been trying to get in our auction for a few months before the consignor very kindly entrusted Phillips to sell it.
Once I saw this dial, I knew it had to be shared with as many people as possible. One of only twelve made for established New York retailer Cellini, the meteorite dial is so dynamic in the metal. At different angles, various parts become illuminated in turn, creating an ever-changing landscape perfectly complemented by the mirror-polished dagger-like handset and hour markers.
The meteorite itself comes with provenance too, as a slice of Gideon meteorite which fell in prehistoric times first discovered by the Nama ethnic group in the desert of Namibia. Since 1950, it is prohibited to remove any Gibeon meteorite fragments from Namibia, and each piece is protected as a National Monument.
An interesting connection to another independent watchmaker – the Nama people used these pieces of meteorite to make the iron tips of their assegais – a spear-like pole weapon that horological enthusiasts will recognize from the distinct hand shape of Laurent Ferrier.
Lot 105A, the Grönefeld 1941 Principa “Special Edition”, is a truly unique expression of the ethos of the Dutch Horological Brothers and we are delighted to bring the first example to the auction market.
Lot 23: A Circa 1967 Rolex Ref. 1016 'Space-Dweller
Estimate: USD $50,000 - 100,000
Doug Escribano, Senior International Specialist
Mid-20th century tool watches dominate the current international marketplace with a modern aesthetic, and functional style that is appealing to both men and women. Rolex is a brand name known and cherished by collectors with models like GMT, Submariner, Daytona and Explorer, each offering a unique place in the horological timeline. Lot 23, Space-Dweller, is an interesting timepiece since it shares characteristics of the Explorer, however, is a far rarer wristwatch. Similar, to other models from the 1950s and 60s, whose concept was drawn from current social and cultural experiences, the Space-Dweller had a limited release following NASA’s early Mercury manned space flight missions
Based on the Explorer wristwatch, Rolex rebranded the model, changing the name to Space-Dweller, hoping to capture the awe and excitement of one of mankind’s greatest accomplishments. Following John Glenn’s successful historic five-hour earth orbit, NASA sent the team on a goodwill tour, and their reception from the Japanese was so strong that Rolex saw an opportunity to market a new timepiece.
Rolex released the watch in Japan in 1963, but ultimately the model was not as successful as they hoped, and production was limited to approximately 3 years. The present model is a wonderful example, and its desirability is enhanced by two Rolex Japan service receipts accompanying it. The watch is in excellent condition with a well-preserved glossy dial. The Space-Dweller captures the synergy of the period, and with its limited production few examples are offered in the international marketplace.
Lot 37: A 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Ref. 15510ST '50th Anniversary Edition' With Green Dial
Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
Erica Downs, Administrator, Watches
It’s no doubt that the Royal Oak is considered Audemars Piguet’s most iconic model. Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak became the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch. Inspired by a vintage scaphander diving helmet, the Royal Oak’s design was sketched overnight. Yes, you read that correctly. In 1970, Genta was approached by the House of Audemars Piguet to design a never-before-seen, totally new and waterproof steel sports watch - and so he delivered.
Officially launched in 1972, the iconic model showcased a sleek octagonal bezel secured with eight hexagonal screws, monobloc case, “petite tapisserie” dial, and an integrated metal bracelet.
Why does this particular model differentiate from the rest? In 2022, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary. In addition to an uncommon and gorgeous khaki green dial, a special engraving on the movement’s skeletonized winding rotor reads “50 Years”, paying a well-deserved homage to the brand’s innovative design since its introduction to the market.
The Royal Oak’s sublime attention to detail beautifully demonstrates the blurring of the lines between a sporty, modern, and classic timepiece. In my opinion, this model undeniably surpasses the definition of a quintessential wristwatch.
Lot 8: A 2008 Kari Voutilainen Observatoire In 18k White Gold With Caramel Brown Dial
Estimate: USD $80,000 - 160,000
Jaclyn Li, Consultant, Watches
Kari Voutilainen stands as a paragon of excellence in the realm of independent watchmaking, earning his reputation as one of the greatest artisans in the industry. Renowned for his meticulous craftsmanship and unwavering commitment to horological artistry, Voutilainen has become synonymous with the revival of traditional watchmaking techniques.
Lot 8, the lot of my choice, is Kari Voutilainen’s Observatoire chronometer in white gold with a brown “autumn” guilloche dial. Known for his masterful engine-turning crafts, Voutilainen equips this watch with a dial that brings a certain warmth and class paired with a color that is rarely seen on his other creations.
What sets Voutilainen apart is not just his technical prowess but also his relentless pursuit of perfection. Each timepiece bearing his name is a testament to his profound understanding of both the aesthetic and technical aspects of watchmaking. The Peseux 260 that is the base for the Observatoire line holds a significant place in horological history, revered for its robust design and enduring reliability. Introduced in the mid-20th century, this manual-winding movement quickly gained acclaim for its simplicity and precision, becoming a staple in various renowned timepieces. As a testament to its enduring relevance, the Peseux 260 has become a sought-after movement among collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate the pivotal role it played in shaping the landscape of mechanical watchmaking.
A perfect harmony of aesthetics and technical brilliance, the Kari Voutilainen Observatoire will certainly bring a smile to collectors appreciative of independent watchmaking’s prowess.
Lot 42: A 2000 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25820ST In Steel With Yves Klein Dial
Estimate: USD $120,000 - 240,000
Arthur Touchot, International Head of Digital Strategy & Specialist
Distinctive. Vibrant. Fascinating. These are just a few of the words used by art critics following the introduction of French artist Yves Klein's groundbreaking signature colour, later formally recognized as International Klein Blue (IKB). Klein unveiled this vivid hue during his exhibition titled "Propositions monochromes, Épouses, Périodes" in April 1957 at the renowned Galerie Colette Allendy in Paris.
The same words were used several years later to describe the first Royal Oak models featuring what Audemars Piguet called “blue sapphire” dials. Given the sports model’s original and distinctive shade of blue, these much more vibrant dials emerged as a bold revelation and swiftly garnered attention among collectors. Their striking resemblance to Klein’s iconic IKB canvases led to the adoption of the “Yves Klein” nickname to describe them.
The reference 25820 also holds a special place in collectors' hearts. Introduced in 1996, it was the first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar to incorporate a leap year indicator. This 39mm “Jumbo” model gained immense popularity among collectors, evident from its extensive production span, which concluded in 2013. However, it remains a very rare watch. During those 17 years, only 1,235 examples were crafted, with roughly 50% of these watches made in stainless steel.
Incredibly, the reference and Yves Klein dial combine in the present watch, case No. 131, to offer collectors the best of both worlds.
Made in 2000, this beautiful Ref. 25820ST remains in excellent condition, exhibiting only minor surface wear on the case and bracelet. The dial retains its pristine condition and is confirmed by the Certificate of Authenticity issued during a recent service by Audemars Piguet.
Lot 79: The One-Of-A-Kind, Unique G-SHOCK 40th Anniversary 'Dream Project #2' Ref. G-D001 In 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $70,000 - 140,000
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
I joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo earlier this year after spending the first eight years of my career working at more traditional watch-focused media outlets, where I covered the whole scope of the industry. One of the reasons I love my job here at Phillips is the ability to specialize on only the most interesting and compelling watches that come to market. Instead of reading press releases about brand-new watches, I do research on my own about timepieces from all of watchmaking history. I don't mean to sound pretentious, but I don't miss the old days of having to write about ho-hum new watches and brands that don't really matter in the greater watch landscape.
One exception to the rule, however, was G-SHOCK. I've always loved writing about G-SHOCK. I own more G-SHOCKs than any other type of watch, and a G-SHOCK was the first watch I remember owning as a teenager back in the day. The Japanese brand is special to me, and I was bummed I likely wouldn't have the opportunity to continue to cover and support G-SHOCK in the same way as I did in the past. Little did I know, but G-SHOCK was planning something big. A unique watch that fits perfectly in with the rest of the New York Watch Auction: NINE catalog and has an estimate of up to $140,000 – a potential result that would make it the most expensive G-SHOCK ever sold. (Fingers crossed!)
The one-of-a-kind G-SHOCK 40th Anniversary 'Dream Project #2' ref. G-D001 features a case made of solid 18k yellow gold – and to make the watch even more unusual and exclusive, G-SHOCK enlisted an artificial intelligence program to help create the remarkable, bold case design. It's like no G-SHOCK ever before. Hell, I'd go as far as to say that it's unlike any watch ever made before.
Lot 135: A 2008 Philippe Dufour Simplicity With A 37mm Platinum Case
Estimate: USD $400,000 - 800,000
Ben Kramer, Photographer
My specialist pick is lot 135, the Philippe Dufour Simplicity. There are many reasons why Philippe Dufour timepieces have achieved a cult-like status among watch enthusiasts. Each Simplicity is meticulously handcrafted by Philippe Dufour himself. The watchmaker's involvement in the creation of each piece ensures a high level of attention to detail and precision.
Dufour is known for adhering to traditional watchmaking techniques, the Simplicity embodies the principles of classical watchmaking, showcasing superb hand-finished movements, traditional decoration, and attention to traditional design aesthetics. This timeless design is reinforced by exceptional craftsmanship. This variant is an exquisite example of the pinnacle of time-only watches. Preserved in near perfect condition, it stuns with its 37mm platinum case and desirable hand-guilloché dial. It is a remarkable watch from all angles. This Simplicity would certainly be a crown jewel in even the most extravagant watch collection and endure at the vanguard of horological discourse.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire New York Watch Auction: NINE catalog right here
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
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