Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2023, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Friday, September 8, to 2:00 PM CET, Friday, September 15. Featuring more than 60 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.
We have some good news and some bad news for you.
The not-so-great news? Well, it's now the middle of September, and it's fair to say that summer in the Northern Hemisphere is officially over.
The good news, however, is that a new watch auction season has just begun! We kicked off our first sale of the fall 2023 season a few days ago with the Geneva Sessions, Fall 2023, online auction.
It's a fantastic catalog consisting of 65 total lots, mostly focused on special and rare modern timepieces, but there's naturally a number of vintage and neo-vintage gems interspersed throughout. Our Geneva team of specialists and staffers couldn't be more excited to show you the full catalog, but if you need some help in getting started, we've selected a number of what we think are the most underrated and interesting watches in the sale.
Enjoy!
Lot 4: Cartier Tonneau Ref. A102123, Circa 1990
Alexandre Ghotbi, Head Of Watches, Continental Europe And EMEA
Estimate: CHF 6,000 - 12,000
Cartier’s inventiveness is unparalleled. They've created case shapes that had never been seen before. The tonneau case – barrel in French – was invented in 1906 and is a perfect example. It's become one of the most iconic designs of the 20th century.
The present example, in excellent condition, features all the elements that one can expect from Cartier with its rose pattern guilloché dial, blued hands, and a riveted crown with blue cabochon. But what in my opinion adds an extra element of refinement and elegance is the Paris signature at six o’clock. Cartier is an international brand but very much Parisian at heart, and the fact this watch has this rare signature brings it back to its roots.
Lot 6: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In Platinum, Circa 2004
Arthur Touchot, International Head Of Digital Strategy, Specialist
Estimate: CHF 160,000 - 320,000
It's beautiful. It's innovative, and highly functional as a dual time. The Chronomètre à Résonance has to be one of the most impressive watches of the 21st century. This first generation version, in the more compact 38mm case, and the beautiful and extremely rare brass movement is a cut above the rest.
This one is preserved in excellent overall condition and comes with everything it was oringally delivered with, and I'm sure will be worn with great pride by its next custodian.
Lot 50: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 116523 In 18k Yellow Gold And Stainless Steel, Circa 2002
Lucie Delaporte, Social Media Manager
Estimate: CHF 12,000 - 24,000
When it comes to chronographs, the Daytona stands out above all the rest.
The present ref. 116523 marked a significant milestone in the Daytona's evolution, as it introduced a stainless steel and yellow gold case construction while housing Rolex's new-generation in-house calibre 4130. Its stunning aesthetic is undeniable, with an attractive black dial that perfectly complements the two-tone coloring. This masterpiece is ringed by the Daytona's distinctive tachymeter bezel in gold, creating a timeless appeal that captivates enthusiasts and collectors alike.
With its rich history, exceptional craftsmanship, and beautiful aesthetic, now is the perfect time to acquire not only a beautiful watch but also a great investment.
Lot 17: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Poker Chip "SJX Edition"
Marcello de Marco, Specialist, Business Development Associate
Estimate: CHF 6,000 - 12,000
The Zenith El Primero is one of the most reliable, long-lived, and desirable chronograph movements, maintaining the crown of being the first integrated automatic hi-beat chronograph movement made in series to hit the market. So exacting was its development that while in 1962, when the project began, the movement was expected to be released during Zenith's 1965 centenary. It ended up missing that goal completely, eventually being realized in 1969, after a four-year delay. Although the announcement was made in January of that year, the first Zenith El Primero watches only became available that September.
Once the caliber was released, however, it immediately proved itself as a true engineering masterpiece, so much so that it was famously employed by Rolex in its Daytona 1652x series.
The consequence of the El Primero's remarkable success is that there are a number of different wristwatch models bearing the movement, and the present iteration is one that I love the most. Created in collaboration with scholar and journalist Jiaxian Su (aka SJX), and inspired by a vintage gold model nicknamed the "Poker Chip" from the 1970s, the incredibly complex design of the dial is an ode to the creativity of the era. While the 1970s Poker Chip presented mostly black graphics on a white and gold background, the contemporary version was completely reinvented – all the dial graphics are rendered in Super-LumiNova over a dark grey background, ensuring an edgy and smooth look by day, alongside an incredible light show by night – all boosted by the luminescent-infused strap. The brushed titanium case perfectly harmonizes with the dial color, and its clean-cut design amplifies the sporty and aggressive vibe of the watch.
Finally, the fact that it is limited to only 200 pieces – with virtually all of them selling immediately at launch – makes it quite difficult to find the watch on the secondary market, adding an extra layer of appeal and collectability.
Lot 34: Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Limited Edition For Revolution & The Rake
Edoardo Bolla, Associate Specialist
Estimate: CHf 25,000 - 50,000
Laurent Ferrier is a true independent watchmaker, constantly delivering timepieces with outstanding quality, a minimalist design, and a beautiful refinement. The present example of the Classic Origin comes from an exclusive collaboration between Laurent Ferrier with Revolution & The Rake.
Showcasing the recognizable and elegant signature case, the timepiece is made contemporary and dashingly sporty thanks to a beautifully finished sector champagne dial with sunburst finish in the center and an opaline finish behind the chemin de fer. The large applied Breguet numerals used for the three, nine, and 12 o'clock hour markers are solid white gold appliqués that have been ruthenium treated. Inside, the timepiece is brought to life thanks to the visually striking manual winding calibre LF116.01.
Number six of an extremely limited quantity of 12 examples, this highly collectible timepiece is a tasteful celebration of excellence and is certain to impress watch connoisseurs of the highest standards.
Lot 44: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 4947/1A-001, Circa 2021
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
Estimate: CHF 30,000 - 60,000
The annual calendar doesn’t get the respect it deserves. No, it’s not a perpetual calendar, but it remains an interesting and innovative take on the calendar complication that is vastly more attainable than its perennial older sibling. Countless brands have offered their own take on the annual calendar complication since it was introduced more than a quarter of a century ago, but I believe the most desirable iterations still come from the hands of its inventor, Patek Philippe.
I’m a big fan of the ref. 5960, which combines an annual calendar and chronograph inside one of Patek’s sportiest modern case designs, but the watch that caught my eye this sale is in fact the stainless-steel ref. 4947/1A, which features Patek’s original annual calendar dial orientation combined with applied Arabic numerals and a beautiful blue linen-type dial. Patek actually describes this dial as featuring a shantung finish, referencing a type of silk plain weave fabric that incorporates an equal mix of horizontal and vertical patterns and that historically comes from coastal China's Shandong province.
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref. 4947/1A was officially introduced in 2021, the same year the specific example featured in the Geneva Sessions, Fall 2023, online auction catalog was produced. This is surprisingly one of the first examples of the reference to come to auction, and it carries an estimate of CHF 30,000 - 60,000.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Sessions, Fall 2023, catalog here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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