Welcome to our series highlighting the exceptional watches available through PERPETUAL, Phillips’ boutique service offering immediate access to the world’s rarest and most desirable timepieces. You can view all currently available watches by visiting our London headquarters at 30 Berkeley Square, our seasonal summer boutique inside Switzerland's Gstaad Palace, or by visiting Phillips PERPETUAL online. Our new "Buy Now" button makes acquiring the watch of your dreams easier than ever.
– By Logan Baker
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5970 is considered by many to be the Platonic ideal of a complicated watch from the historic Geneva manufacture. It was the final perpetual calendar chronograph reference from Patek Philippe to be equipped with a Lemania-based movement, before it was replaced in 2011 with the in-house CH 29-535 PS caliber inside the next-gen ref. 5270.
Despite the cult acclaim that surrounds the ref. 5970, it had the shortest lifespan of any perpetual calendar chronograph reference in Patek Philippe’s long lineage of producing the complication. The first pieces came to market in 2004, and the final examples were delivered to retailers no later than 2011. Of course, as with any Patek Philippe reference, certain case metal and dial color combinations were only available for a portion of the reference’s entire production run.
The final major addition to the ref. 5970 came in approximately 2007, when Patek Philippe introduced the platinum-cased, black-dialed ref. 5970P into the collection. As we’ve highlighted in the past, Patek Philippe has rarely ever combined a white-metal case with a black dial. You could likely count on one hand the number of references it appeared on the 20th century.
It’s known today that Patek Philippe did create a few special-order examples of the ref. 3970P (precursor to the 5970) with a black dial, but they were never publicized or put into series production. This configuration is less noteworthy today, as Patek Philippe continued to experiment with the case/dial combination in the 2010s (see: ref. 5204P, 5170G, and 5370P), but it was an entirely unexpected development in 2007/08.
As was the revelation that the 5970P would be quietly accompanied by a sibling reference: the ref. 5971P. The 5971P utilized the same platinum-case, black-dial formula as the 5970P but added an impressive setting of 36 flawless rare white Top Wesselton baguette-cut diamonds to the bezel that weighed approximately 4.37 carats in total. Diamonds were also added to the dial, to serve as the watch’s hour markers, and set onto the pin buckle.
The 5970P is considered to be one of the rarest and most collectible 5970 configurations, with an estimated production total of between 300 to 500 pieces. The ref. 5971 is much rarer, with some collectors and experts believing approximately 100 pieces were produced before it was discontinued and eventually replaced by the 5271P.
In the realm of perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe, the ref. 5971 is still a bit underrated. It hasn’t received nearly as much enthusiast attention over the years as the standard 5970 models; however, that might slowly be starting to change. Phillips has sold nine previous 5971 examples at auction over the past eight years, including a possibly unique variation featuring a silver dial. And the musician and prodigious watch collector John Mayer showed off a ref. 5971 in his collection during his second appearance on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches video series, in 2019.
This example, sourced from a private collection is complete with the original Patek polished wooden box, Certificate of Origin, booklets and stylus.
A 2008 example of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5971P-001 is available now for immediate purchase from Phillips PERPETUAL. The present watch was sourced from a private collection, is complete with the original Patek Philippe polished wooden box, Certificate of Origin, booklets, and stylus. It's priced at £279,000.
About Phillips PERPETUAL
Phillips PERPETUAL offers a boutique experience to clients for both the sale and purchase of fine and rare watches, in London’s Berkeley Square and the Gstaad Palace, in Switzerland.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Visit Phillips PERPETUAL /
30 Berkeley Square, London, United Kingdom, W1J 6EX (map)
Monday through Friday, 10:00 AM – 17:30 PM
Contact & Consignment Enquiries /
00 44 207 901 7916
perpetual@phillips.com
@phillipsperpetual
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Recommended Reading
An In-Depth Collectors’ Guide To The Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 5070
White Metal, Black Dial, Patek Philippe Chronographs
Compact Dimensions And Complicated Watches: A Look At Patek Philippe Under Philippe Stern