Comprising over 230 lots, the upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: SIX will offer an exceptional selection of timepieces in excellent condition and with notable provenance, all manufactured by the world’s most established watchmakers. Held on 29 May at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, the sale will give collectors the opportunity to acquire some of the most important watches ever made. Here we take a look at six through the lens of our specialists
Bovet Mono-rattrapante chronograph Reference 5347 (Lot 941)
Estimate: HK$105,000 - 160,000
Best known today for making technically advanced and aesthetically avant-garde watches, Bovet has a long history going back to the first quarter of the 19th century, when Edouard Bovet set off to China to sell watches his family was making back in Fleurier (Switzerland). The brand’s lavish pocket watches with intricate pear setting and miniature paintings were in immense demand in that region but recognition came from all over the world – the company won a gold medal in the ‘luxury’ category of the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1855 for pair of enameled watches commissioned by the Emperor of China). Bovet was also a pioneer in the delicate art of chronographs, patenting in 1889 a single push-piece chronograph equipped with a seconds-hand, minute-counter and hour-counter allowing measurements of up to 24 hours offering the possibility of using the chronograph as a second time zone. In 1936, Bovet created and patented a “mono-rattrapante” chronograph system that acted similarly to a split-seconds mechanism, however without the heavy cost to manufacture. The mechanism was operated through the top chronograph button, while the lower button would stop it and when released allowed the time to catch up to the actual time. This was done via tension in a hairspring that built up as the chronograph button was held, and when released the hairspring unwound. The present Reference 5347 from 1945 has many appealing features. Its 38mm case makes its stand out from its peers due to its large size. The radium numerals and dark “chocolate” colored tropical dial give it a dash of flamboyance which adding to the immaculate condition of the watch make it a rare collector piece. - Alexandre Ghotbi
Cartier Crash (Lot 882)
Estimate: HK$120,000 - 200,000
Besides their historical importance, what makes vintage watches so charming is often the story that accompanies them. While certain watches found fame on the race track, and others lived grand lives in royal palaces, the origins of some watches remain shrouded in mystery. The Cartier Crash is one of those watches. There are many conflicting theories about the watch’s design, but we do not really know how the watch came out. In an era where everything must be explained, I must admit that I enjoy the sense of mystery surrounding this piece. In addition, I find its slightly crazy design very appealing. The sensuality of its curved case brought a bit of fantasy to an industry known for being very conservative when the watch was launched. This particular model, made in 1991 is an homage to the original Crash. The fantastic condition of this piece is beautifully complemented by an even layer of oxidation giving this watch the vintage aspect I personally enjoy seeing. - Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Patek Philippe Reference 2526 (Lot 814)
Estimate: HK$1,200,000 - 2,000,000
Without a doubt, the watch I am most excited about seeing in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: SIX is the very unusual Patek Philippe Ref. 2526 with black lacquer dial and gilt mirrored Arabic numerals. The Reference 2526 is one of my favourite vintage watches, ever. It was Patek Philippe's first automatic waterproof wriswatch and it houses one of the very best movements, the cal. 12'600 AT. We are beginning to uncover examples in unusual configurations, but this is by far the most surprising. This is the first time I see a model which completely departs from the traditional dress style of the reference. And I like it. It reminds me of other military-inspired Patek Philippe watches made on special request. - Arthur Touchot
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Reference 2438/1 (Lot 864)
Estimate: HK$3,500,000 - 7,000,000
Another watch I'm excited to see at auction is the incredibly rare pink gold Patek Philippe Reference 2438/1. This is one of the most important watches made by arguably the most influential watch manufacture, and it introduced perhaps the first truly modern perpetual calendar wristwatch: one with centre seconds and a screw-on case back. In production from 1952 to 1963, it is one of the most elusive perpetual calendars ever made, and it is possibly the most collectible of them all, not only in virtue of its rarity, but also of its aesthetics, movement and case design. I’d happily take this watch in any case metal, but if I had to choose, a pink gold model would certainly always be my first pick. - Arthur Touchot
Patek Philippe Minute Repeating Tourbillon Reference 3939HP (Lot 902)
Estimate: HK$2,400,000 - 4,000,000
What attracts me to this watch is how approachable it seems, until you examine it closer and realize that it is far beyond what you could imagine. Viewed at a glance, you’d have to be extremely keen-eyed to recognize all of its complexities. A platinum, minute repeater with hidden tourbillon and Breguet numerals – this is something that is the ultimate in understatement. All this horological magic is contained in one 33 millimeter case where those complications were made to fit within the case, rather than making the case larger and the process easier. The reference 3939 retains the same proportions and aesthetic as the reference 2524, introduced in the early 1950s, but was completely “souped-up” by Patek when introduced in 1992. So it really has everything a collector could want – heritage, stunning architecture and design, complications, and discretion. - Isabella Proia
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Reference 1518 in yellow gold (Lot 985)
Estimate: HK$2,500,000 - 5,000,000
One of the truly great wristwatches of the 20th century, the Patek Philippe Reference 1518 was the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph with moon phases. The watch inspired what is perhaps the most iconic line of wristwatches ever made. Patek Philippe continued to use its timeless aesthetic whenever it introduced perpetual calendar chronograph, and in fact, all five representatives of this line, the ref. 1518, ref. 2499 (1950s-1980s), ref. 3970 (1990s), ref. 5970 (2000s), and ref. 5270 (currently in production), are considered absolute icons of watch collecting. Beyond being the first of them all, the ref. 1518 is also the rarest of these five references, with an estimated production of 281 pieces overall. What makes this particular yellow gold example, from 1945, incredibly special is that it comes with some of the original documentation received when it was originally purchased. Most notably, it is accompanied with its original warranty certificate, a piece of paper that most reference 1518s typically do not have. - Yong Ho
The Hong Kong Watch Auction: SIX takes place on May 29, at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. You can read the full catalogue right here.