Our first live auction of 2026, the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII, will take place on 9-10 May, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. Bringing together more than 200 of the world’s finest watches, it will showcase a curated selection of exceptional pieces. Over the coming weeks, we will be highlighting several of the most interesting lots and the stories behind them, including the Auffret Paris and Lederer prototypes detailed below.
– By Sophie Furley
Every great watch series starts with a single watch that crystalizes ideas, theories, design, research and development into one creation. When successful, that piece paves the way for a full series. Most often these prototypes are kept for posterity by the watchmakers who made them, or are snapped up by clients too impatient to wait.
But on rare occasions, they find their way to auction, much to the joy of connoisseurs in search of the most exceptional and significant objects for their collections.
Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer Inverto “Prototype 00” in Steel
Bernhard Lederer is a German independent watchmaker based in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. He is best known for his award-winning Central Impulse Chronometer, which received the GPHG Innovation Prize in 2021, although his horological career spans many more decades.
In 1985 he became one of the first members of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI); in the early 2000s he created the brand BLU, and more recently he has been making movements for other brands in what many describe as his “silent decade”. Now, with his eponymous watch brand, he is focusing his attention on exploring chronometric performance and developing new escapement innovations never seen before.
His Inverto timepiece is, as its name suggests, an “inverted” version of his Central Impulse Chronometer, in which the movement takes center stage instead of being hidden beneath the caseback. Lederer did not simply flip the movement over; he completely re-engineered the geometry of the remontoire system to enhance precision and performance.
Originally created as a unique piece for Only Watch 2023, the Inverto later appeared as an exclusive limited edition of 18 pieces in a 44mm black DLC case. This was followed by a Grade 5 titanium version in 39mm that was unveiled at the end of last year, with production capped at just 15 pieces per year.
Its Caliber 9019 draws inspiration from George Daniels’ Independent Double Wheel Escapement, featuring two escape wheels at the end of two separate gear trains, each powered by its own barrel. To each of these independent gear trains, Lederer added a 10-second constant-force remontoire, a mechanism that rewinds a small spring every 10 seconds, ensuring a steady and even delivery of power to the escapement.
Lederer also optimized the escapement components and their geometry, reducing their weight, friction and energy consumption. While the dial-side movement commands attention, the caseback is equally engaging with an intricate engraving of the caliber and the addition of a seconds indication.
Lederer’s prototype of this inverted movement enabled him to validate proportions and test technical solutions. It is the only functional prototype in existence and is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case – the only steel case he has made to date.
The watch will be offered at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII this May and comes together with Lederer’s original design sketches and a signed letter to its future owner.
Auffret Paris: Giverny "Prototype" Blue Train
Another world-first prototype that is being presented in the Phillips Geneva May auction is the Auffret Paris Giverny Blue. Brand founder Théo Auffret has rapidly established himself as one of the most compelling young voices in contemporary watchmaking.
A graduate of the Edgar Faure watchmaking school, he first honed his craft in restoration with Denis Corpechot, then deepened his mastery of traditional hand-finishing techniques under the legendary Jean-Bastiste Viot. He later refined his skills in Switzerland with Luca Soprana, before embarking on his own independent venture in the heart of Paris. A winner of the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2018, Auffret quickly established a reputation for combining classical chronometer-inspired movements with distinctive finishing techniques.
Auffret Paris' Giverny Blue Prototype is the very first piece of a series of five prototypes made in steel. This 36 mm time-only version is the only one fitted with blue indexes, earning it the nickname “Blue Train”.
Its combination of prototype status and unique dial configuration, along with the strictly limited production of this model – only five examples are scheduled for delivery in 2026 and 10 in 2027 – make it a particularly appealing example of Auffret’s work.
“This is the very first caliber of a new generation of calibers, which we are currently assembling and delivering, that worked. It was either going to function, or we were heading straight for the wall,” shares Auffret. “It is a real, genuine, bona fide prototype. We had never brought one of these calibers to life before this one.”
The timepiece is a 36mm time-only wristwatch that reflects his architectural approach to design and his commitment to French independent watchmaking. It houses a newly developed in-house caliber that took two years of research and development to complete. The movement draws inspiration from mid-20th century chronometer calibers, particularly the Peseux 260. This influence can be seen in the generous 13mm balance and the leisurely frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour.
Crafted from German silver, the movement showcases what has become Auffret’s signature finishing technique called Charbonnage. This rare and labor-intensive technique involves applying charcoal by hand to create a softly brushed matte surface across the plates, giving the calibre a distinctive depth and warmth. The attention to detail is off the charts with even the lugs featuring interior angles created by hand.
“It is really nice for us to be able to show this watch. It is something that rarely happens. We often get scolded by our clients because there are no finished watches to see as nothing is available, so it is great that there is this one to present,” notes Auffret.
A portion of the proceeds from the sale of this watch will benefit the Bertrand Scheck Foundation, dedicated to preserving horological know-how in France as well as SOS Préma, a French NGO which supports families of prematurely born babies.
You can learn more about these two prototypes, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII catalogue right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Sophie Furley
Sophie has spent the past 20 years covering watches and jewelry for leading print and digital titles, including Revolution, Telegraph Time, India Today and WorldTempus. She joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo in early 2025 as Head of Digital Marketing. Originally from the United Kingdom, she now lives on the outskirts of Geneva with her family and their dog.