The PHILLIPS New York Watch Auction: XIII takes place on 6-7 December 2025, at our Park Avenue headquarters. The auction includes more than 140 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogues we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including all the different watches seen below.
– By Logan Baker
Matching sets have a special kind of appeal in watch collecting. They reflect intention – the idea that two (or more) watches can tell a richer story together than apart. At the upcoming Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIII, that theme runs throughout the catalogue.
We've already shown you the pair of F.P. Journe Souscription watches in the sale, as well as the remarkable No. 1 examples of Philippe Dufour’s Duality and Simplicity. But the story doesn’t stop there. The auction also features several other pairs and groups that highlight balance, taste, and an eye for detail: a duo of 38mm stainless-steel F.P. Journe watches, twin 18k yellow-gold Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680s preserved in immaculate condition, and a quartet of Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5075Gs adorned with cloisonné-enamel “Flower” dials.
Lot 69: A Circa 2015 F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain 38mm in Stainless Steel, No. 22/38-T in the Steel Set
Lot 70: A Circa 2015 F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance 38mm in Stainless Steel, No. 22/38-T in the Steel Set
Lot 71: An F.P. Journe 38mm Steel Set Watch Box and Certificate
Lot 69, Estimate: USD $180,000 - 360,000
Lot 70, Estimate: USD $180,000 - 360,000
Lot 71, Estimate: USD $5,000 - 10,000
When F.P. Journe launched his first watches in 1999, each came in a 38mm case – a size that defined the early identity of his brand. By the early 2000s, collectors could choose between 38mm and 40mm, a dual offering that lasted until 2015, when Journe announced the smaller size would be phased out in favor of 40mm and 42mm cases.
To honor the end of his 38mm era, Journe assembled a five-watch collection – the Tourbillon Souverain, Chronomètre à Résonance, Octa Automatique, Octa Calendrier, and Chronomètre Souverain – all executed in 38mm stainless-steel cases with warm bronze-tone dials. Only 38 examples of this set, now known as the “Coffret Set,” were produced. Priced just north of $300,000 at launch, it was a capsule of the brand’s defining models – and a farewell to the original case size that started it all.
At the upcoming Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIII, two of those five watches— the Tourbillon Souverain and the Chronomètre à Résonance – appear together, both numbered 22/38. Adding to the intrigue, if both watches are purchased by the same buyer, the following lot – a special walnut presentation box created for the complete five-piece 38mm Steel Set – will be withdrawn and awarded to that collector.
Lot 24: A Circa 1979 Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680 in 18k Yellow Gold
Lot 25: A Circa 1979 Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680 in 18k Yellow Gold
Lot 24, Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
Lot 25, Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
Some watches seem destined to stay together. These two Rolex Submariner Date Ref. 1680s, produced in the late 1970s, are a case in point – literally. Their serial numbers are separated by just sixteen digits, suggesting they left the factory side by side before being sold to a South American dealer and, likely, to the same first owner. Decades later, they resurface in remarkably similar condition, both preserved with an honesty that feels almost anachronistic in today’s market.
Each features an 18k yellow gold case and a matching President bracelet made in South America under Rolex’s patented design. The D’Agosto hallmark stamped on the clasp, along with the distinctive texture and weight of the bracelets, confirms their regional production. Both watches also bear a small “C” within a square under one lug, a mark typical of watches destined for South American import.
Condition-wise, these examples stand among the best-preserved gold Submariners we've ever handled. The chamfers remain sharp, the lugs full, and even the caseback sticker clings stubbornly to one of the watches. The luminous plots have aged to a rich pumpkin hue, perfectly matched between the two dials. Their bracelets retain impressive integrity, with minimal stretch and crisp finishing.
It’s rare to encounter a single unpolished yellow-gold Submariner in this state. To find two that have shared a parallel life since birth is almost unbelievable – a pair of twins reunited on the auction block after nearly half a century apart.
Lot 106: A 2001 Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts 'Red Flower' Ref. 5075G-012
Lot 107: A 2001 Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts 'Blue Flower' Ref. 5075G-011
Lot 108: A 2001 Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts 'Pink Flower' Ref. 5075G-001
Lot 109: A 2001 Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts 'White Flower' Ref. 5075G-010
Lot 106, Estimate: USD $35,000 - 70,000
Lot 107, Estimate: USD $35,000 - 70,000
Lot 108, Estimate: USD $35,000 - 70,000
Lot 109, Estimate: USD $35,000 - 70,000
Patek Philippe has long championed the art of cloisonné enamel, using it to transform dials into vivid miniature paintings. Each image begins as an intricate outline of fine gold threads, hand-shaped to form the design. Those compartments are then filled with colored enamel powder and fired repeatedly in a kiln – sometimes a dozen times – to achieve the desired intensity.
The Calatrava Ref. 5075 exemplifies that tradition. First introduced in 2000 as a four-piece set, the series was produced in small annual runs with different enamel motifs. The “Flowers” edition, released in the early 2000s, is among the rarest, believed to comprise only ten complete sets before production ended in 2004. Each watch features a 36mm white-gold case with a broad, polished bezel and a rotor engraved to echo the floral design on its dial.
Appearing together at the upcoming Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIII, the four “Flower” Calatravas form a complete garden of enamel artistry. One depicts the Epidendrum ibaguense, or crucifix orchid, rendered in deep red tones inspired by the species’ Colombian origin. Another captures the Anemone blanda, or Grecian windflower, in luminous blue-violet.
A third portrays the Graptopetalum bellum, a flowering cactus native to northern Mexico, its pink petals reproduced with almost photographic precision. The final example features the Echinocereus leucanthus, an endangered cactus flower from Sinaloa and Sonora, characterized by its white and blush-pink petals.
Each watch is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, presentation box, and numbered hang tag, preserving their individual identities even as they complement one another.
Lot 50: A Circa 1995 Rolex Lady-Datejust 'Octopussy' Ref. 69159 in 18k White Gold
Lot 51: A Circa 1991 Rolex Day-Date 'Octopussy' Ref. 18389 in 18k White Gold
Lot 50, Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
Lot 51, Estimate: USD $60,000 - 120,000
Few Rolex nicknames capture the imagination quite like “Octopussy.” Borrowed from the 1983 James Bond film, the moniker has been embraced by collectors to describe some of the brand’s most extravagant gem-set creations. Two remarkable examples – one Lady-Datejust, and one Day-Date – appear side by side at the upcoming Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIII, each representing Rolex at its most opulent and unconventional.
The Lady-Datejust Ref. 69159 takes the familiar form of Rolex’s classic women’s automatic wristwatch and transforms it into a piece of high jewelry. Introduced in 1957, the Lady-Datejust was engineered as a smaller, fully functional companion to the Datejust, retaining the waterproof Oyster case and automatic movement. In this version, however, the 24mm case, lugs, bezel, dial, and bracelet are all factory-set with diamonds – the bracelet in particular earning the “Octopussy” nickname for its distinctive pattern of alternating round and baguette-cut stones that evoke the curling arms of an octopus. This example arrives freshly serviced by Rolex, accompanied by its service card, a period-correct presentation box, and even a silk Rolex scarf, underscoring its luxury pedigree.
If the Lady-Datejust embodies elegance in miniature, the Day-Date “Octopussy” expands that energy on a larger scale. Here, the classic "President" bracelet becomes a canvas for diamonds, with each link topped with cylindrical settings that rise above the surface like tiny domes. The bezel, lugs, and dial are all diamond-set, with baguette-cut stones anchoring each center link. The watch also features a rare “Jubilee” motif dial, introduced in 1985 for the 40th anniversary of the Datejust, alongside original Taiwanese guarantee papers and accessories. It's been recently serviced and is under Rolex warranty until 2027.
You can view the complete Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIII auction catalogue here.