Our final live auction of the spring 2025 season, the New York Watch Auction: XII, takes place on 7-8 June, at our Manhattan headquarters. The auction includes 140 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it’s one of the best catalogues we've ever put together. We'll highlight several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale over the next few weeks, including the watches highlighted in this article.
Lot 95: A Circa 1943 Patek Philippe 'Calatravone' in Stainless Steel with Three-Tone Dial Featuring Breguet Numerals
Estimate: USD $200,000 - 400,000
Isabella Proia, Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist
The auction world is quite cyclical, and certainly there are many former colleagues that would say that eventually the repetition of the cycle gets a bit monotonous. I can’t say that I feel the same. There are always new problems and challenges to overcome, new market conditions to adjust to, and most importantly, new and surprising watches that are offered to you when you’re least expecting it. This 570 with three-tone silvered dial, long signature, and large Breguet numerals is such a watch - a totally previously unknown Calatrava that was offered to us one dreary Saturday afternoon.
The images of the watch we received gave us every indication the watch was incredible, but when it arrived in the office our expectations were blown out of the water. The case was so sharp, the dial vivid and beautiful, and the raised hard enamel vibrant and intact. Fitting within the serial number range of previous examples, we are thrilled and honored to present this new find, one of the most important Calatravones to grace the auction market in recent times.
Lot 20: A Circa 1950 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 1518 in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $400,000 - 800,000
Paul Boutros, Deputy Chairman, Phillips, Head of Watches, Americas
We are thrilled and honored to have been entrusted with the sale of this extraordinary example dating to 1950. Coming from one of the most important and discerning collectors of vintage watches in the U.S., it is, in my humble opinion, the finest yellow gold example to emerge on the market in years. The perpetual calendar chronograph is widely regarded as Patek Philippe’s signature model, in continuous production through the present day since its launch in 1941. Produced in only approximately 280 examples in yellow gold, pink gold, and stainless steel from 1941 to 1954, the reference 1518 is the rarest of all perpetual chronograph models produced by the firm.
The present example appeared at auction for the first time in 1989 in New York, when it was purchased by the consignor. It has remained in the identical state of preservation since then – he never wore it once, instead storing it within a temperature and humidity-controlled safe until now. As a result, its quality and condition are extraordinary. Its dial is stunning and completely original, certainly having never been restored or even cleaned in any way. Its case is equally exceptional. Its original factory finishing is beautifully preserved, with full lugs and perfectly round and crisp spring bar holes. Without a doubt it was never polished, and certainly hardly ever worn before his purchase in 1989. Simply breathtaking.
Lot 2: A Circa 2024 Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 226627 in Titanium
Estimate: USD $10,000 - 20,000
Doug Escribano, Senior International Specialist
Rolex’s Yacht-Master 42 isn’t the most expensive or complicated timepiece offered this June in The New York Watch Auction XII. However, it is a classic wristwatch that was revamped with an ultra-cool titanium 42-mm diameter case. First released in 1992 and designed for the nautical set, the model is often overshadowed by other Rolex tool watches like the Submariner or GMT-Master.
First seen as a prototype on the wrist of competitive and Olympian British sailor Ben Ainslie in 2022, Rolex brought forth this model in 2023, making a great wearable watch. Using a proprietary grade-5 “RLX” Titanium, the watch is very light, only 100 grams, and sits comfortably on the wrist. The grey matte case is complemented by the polished chamfers and raised matte ceramic bezel insert. The matte maxi dial with white numerals has a modern appeal. While the Yacht-Master has been made in stainless steel, gold and platinum, the new Titanium 42 is contemporary and has a lot of personality for everyday use.
Lot 94: A Circa 1988 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 3970 in 18k Yellow Gold with Doré Dial
Estimate: USD $150,000 - 300,000
Jaclyn Li, Consultant
I’ve seen a fair number of Patek Philippe 3970s come and go, but this example — lot 94 is one that stopped me in my tracks. For any collector who’s been watching the surging market for neo-vintage Patek perpetual calendars, you’ll understand exactly why.
What immediately caught my eye was the dial. This isn’t your standard silvered configuration — it’s the elusive doré dial, a warm, gilded finish that brings a whole different character to the watch. It’s subtle yet unmistakably special.
Beyond the aesthetics, the condition is extraordinary. The hallmarks on the solid yellow gold caseback are sharp, crisp, and deeply struck — just the way you hope to find them, but so rarely do. You can tell this watch has been cherished, not hidden away in a safe, but carefully preserved over the decades.
And then there’s the completeness. Full set. We’re talking original Certificate of Origin dated 1988, service papers from Patek Philippe, product literature, folios, everything.
With collectors increasingly gravitating toward the 3970 as the next great reference to watch — particularly second-series examples with the screw-down caseback — this one really checks every box: rarity, condition, originality, and charm. If I were building a serious Patek collection today, this would be the one I’d chase. Watches like this don’t surface often, and when they do, they don’t stay on the market for long, and we are very thrilled to be bringing this example to market.
Lot 28: A 2023 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater in Titanium with Obsidian Openworked Dial
Estimate: USD $300,000 - 600,000
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
I have huge admiration for Jean-Claude Biver and his family. There's no doubt that the watch world would be in a very different place today if it weren't for his work at brands like Blancpain, Omega, Hublot, and TAG Heuer.
When I learned that he was starting his own watch company with his son Pierre, I couldn't wait to learn more. Eventually, I was able to attend the launch party for his new brand in Givrins, Switzerland, and shortly after, we at Phillips were the proud custodians of the first sale of one of his watches, a prototype, in May 2023. It ended up selling for over one million Swiss francs.
Now, during the upcoming New York Watch Auction: XII, we'll be selling another example of Biver's Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater — this isn't the prototype, but it is the very first customer-delivered Biver timepiece. It even comes with an additional serial number plaque engraved "No. 1" that can be installed at the winning bidder's request.
What I love about this watch is, first and foremost, its sound. The carillon minute repeater isn’t just another chiming complication. It’s three hammers, three gongs, three distinct notes — a full orchestra. And then there’s the obsidian. A ring of silvered obsidian frames the open-worked movement architecture. It’s an unexpected choice, yet it works.
This specific watch quite literally represents the start of a new era for Biver — the man, and the brand — it's a physical manifestation of his personal and professional evolution.
Lot 3: A Circa 2023 F.P. Journe Élégante 48 'Titalyt' with Black Dial
Estimate: USD $15,000 - 30,000
Erica Downs, Senior Administrator & Business Development Coordinator
F.P. Journe has for sure taken the spotlight under independent watchmaking. The modern and sporty “Élégante” model has always caught my eye. It perfectly demonstrates the brand’s unique approach to watchmaking. Introduced in 2014, initially as a women’s watch, the Élégante stands out, in my opinion, due to not only its aesthetics but innovation.
You might be surprised to know that this model took eight years to fully develop. Unlike traditional quartz movements, this model uniquely incorporates a motion detector, allowing for the watch to go into a “sleep” mode after 35 minutes of inactivity, conserving battery life. When worn again, it will automatically reset itself to the correct time once picked up or moved. Despite this model’s initial release for women, now offered in both 40mm and 48mm case sizes, it has become a collectors’ favorite – for both men and women.
Aesthetically, the watch’s minimalist yet refined tortue-shapedcase paired with a rubber strap catches the eye. Lot 3, cased in Titalyt, perfectly juxtaposes modern design, elegance, playfulness, and durability – a watch perfect for any occasion.
Lot 133: A Possibly Unique, Circa 1980 Bulgari Tubogas
Estimate: USD $4,000 - 8,000
Ben Kramer, Photographer
My specialist pick for the New York Watch Auction XII is Lot 133. This rare (and possibly unique!) Bulgari is a stunning variation on the iconic Tubogas motif. Its sculptural shape straddles the tendencies of ancient Egyptian, Art Deco, and Space Age designs in distinctly Bulgari fashion. It is markedly asymmetrical and offers the time on a gloss black dial through a teardrop-shaped crystal. The gold plaque has a lovely patina that only adds to its depth and mystique.
This watch is comfortable, aesthetic, and functional with its gold cuff bracelet, thin profile, and manual Juvenia movement. Amazingly, it includes its original purchase receipt and presentation box. There’s not much more I can say about this watch, as I feel it largely speaks for itself. It remains a striking statement piece that would fulfill any longing for an opulent and artistic timepiece.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire New York Watch Auction: XII catalogue right here.