The PHILLIPS Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX takes place on 23-25 May, 2025, at our West Kowloon headquarters. The auction includes more than 280 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogues we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including the Patek Philippe ref. 5970P-013 highlighted below.
– By Logan Baker
Patek Philippe is a house synonymous with tradition and restraint – think silver dials, gold cases, and a refusal to chase trends.
That’s why, when Patek breaks its own mold with a striking palette of black/dark grey and red, collectors sit up and take notice. Starting from the 2000s to today, a handful of ultra-rare and unique Patek wristwatches have employed this daring color scheme, often reserved for the brand’s most complicated and exclusive pieces. These watches – some made for charity auctions, others as one-off commissions – have become legends in their own right, fetching sky-high prices at auction and fueling enthusiasts’ fervor.
In this feature, we explore notable examples like the ref. 5970P-013 with its ruby-red hands, the Only Watch ref. 5004T in titanium, the singular minute repeater ref. 3939, a pair of custom Sky Moon Tourbillons, and more. We’ll also touch on a few rare serial-production models that sport the black-and-red motif, and delve into why Patek favors this bold combo for its most special pieces.
The Allure of Black and Red
For a company as conservative as Patek Philippe, the use of black/dark grey dials and red accents is a statement of intent. Historically, Patek often paired platinum cases with black/dark grey dials in limited instances – a sign of exclusivity. Red, on the other hand, is even rarer in their design language, typically confined to small details like a leap-year indicator or logo. When bright red hands or markings appear, it instantly gives a Patek an unexpected sporty flair.
In complicated watches that might otherwise appear formal or traditional, black/dark grey and red elements inject a jolt of modern energy. Patek seems to reserve this combo for occasions when it wants to signal that a piece is outside the ordinary – either a piece unique, a limited edition for a special cause, or a modern twist on a grand complication.
These black-and-red Pateks have achieved mythical status due to their minuscule production numbers and their eye-catching looks. At auction, they routinely achieve stratospheric prices, underscoring how coveted they are. Notably, Patek’s unique offerings at the biennial Only Watch charity auctions often feature bold dial colors (and have dominated the top results). In 2013, Patek’s contribution – the one-off ref. 5004T in titanium with a black-and-red motif – hammered for about $4 million, accounting for almost 80% of that entire charity auction’s proceeds. Clearly, Patek’s strategy of using an unorthodox color scheme for these special pieces pays off: it creates instant buzz and directly translates into record-breaking bids.
Bespoke Commissions
Not all of Patek’s black or dark grey and red marvels were made for charity – some were quietly commissioned or created for private clients, only coming to light years later. A prime example is the Ref. 5970P-013, a possibly unique iteration of Patek’s beloved 5970 perpetual calendar chronograph.
The standard 5970P (made circa 2009-2010) already came with a black dial in platinum, but the “-013” variant goes a step further: it features more of a dark grey dial color with four bright red hands instead of the usual white gold hands. It also has an English-language calendar and a highly personal caseback inscription – “A Mon Fils” (To My Son) – visible on the sapphire display back.
Another arena where Patek played with these tones is its most complicated model of the 2000s: the Sky Moon Tourbillon, ref. 5002. This double-dialed opus (with 12 complications, including a celestial map on the rear) was usually delivered in very traditional guises – often yellow or white metal with ivory or blue enamel dials. Yet a few ultra-wealthy clients managed to obtain bespoke versions that fit our black/red theme. One known example is the Ref. 5002G-010, a unique piece from circa 2012: it's white gold Sky Moon Tourbillon with a custom black dial featuring red hour markers. There's also a unique rose gold Sky Moon Tourbillon with a black dial and red accents (ref. 5002R-014) that's known to the market.
These examples show that for Patek’s most important clients, the manufacture is willing to depart from catalog standards – be it adding color, unusual materials, or personal messages – resulting in some of the most intriguing watches in Patek’s modern history.
Additional possibly unique complicated Patek Philippe watches with black-and-red dials include the ref. 5204P-21, the ref. 5078P-011, the ref. 3939 H, and a ref. 5016 in platinum, among others.
Other Notable 'Black-and-Red' Patek Philippes
Beyond unique pieces, Patek Philippe has occasionally brought the black/red aesthetic into limited series production or special editions. These watches are not one-of-ones, but they are still few and far between – and highly sought after for their distinctive look. Notable series-produced references employing black, grey, and red include the Aquanaut Ref. 5167A-012, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5951P-001, the Split-Seconds Mono-Pusher Chronograph Perpetual Ref. 5373P-001, the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5960/1A-010, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G-011, the ref. 5216P-001, the ref. 6006G-001, the ref. 5125P for "Wempe", the ref. 5271/12P-001, and the Calatrava Ref. 6007G-010, among others.
Each of these models demonstrates how black/dark grey and red can transform the personality of a Patek Philippe. A dash of red on a chronograph hand or a bold dark dial can make a watch feel more technical and avant-garde, even if the underlying movement is a traditional complication. They also tend to be low-production references, ensuring that exclusivity remains part of the equation.
Why Does Patek Reserve This Color Scheme for the Best of the Best?
There is a clear method to the madness of Patek’s occasional love affair with black/dark grey and red. For one, these colors carry emotional and visual weight. Black/dark grey dials, especially in Patek’s world, often signal something special – historically, Patek reserved black enamel dials for important pieces or clients, and in modern times a black dial on a complication often indicates a limited edition or a piece unique (as we saw with the 3939 and 5970 variants).
Black/dark grey can also enhance legibility for complex dials, providing a stark backdrop that makes subdials and inscriptions pop. Red, meanwhile, is the most attention-grabbing color. Thierry Stern, Patek’s president, has in past interviews emphasized that even the sportiest Pateks must remain elegant; thus, Patek seldom uses loud colors. But when they do choose red, it’s often to inject a bit of dynamic spirit without sacrificing refinement.
Another reason Patek favors this scheme for bespoke pieces is the element of differentiation. A unique watch needs to look unique. By venturing into a color palette that the brand normally doesn’t use, Patek ensures the piece will be instantly recognizable to connoisseurs. It’s a way of telegraphing, “this is no ordinary Patek Philippe.”
Patek Philippe’s use of black, dark grey, and red in its most exclusive wristwatches is a study in calculated contrast. These colors are employed sparingly and deliberately, almost like a secret spice added to an age-old recipe.