Lot 344: Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. Estimate: CHF240,000–430,000 / US$270,000–485,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Shrink it and pink it, so they say. Oh, and add diamonds.
For many watchmakers today — even for a few of the highest order — this is often the approach to watchmaking for ladies. At times, it can seem like the prevailing wisdom is that by making a watch smaller and adding gemstones, you’ve turned a tool into jewellery, a man’s blunt instrument into a gem fit for a lady.
But this has never been enough for Bulgari.
For generations, the house has brought the full weight of its creativity and savoir-faire to its watch designs. For Bulgari, the notion of a power watch has always been fit for ladies, and for evidence, look no further than the ‘Sepenti’ — one of the most instantly recognizable and deeply symbolic designs in the history of jewellery (or watchmaking).
From its origins in the 1940s to its evolution into a modern-day icon, the Serpenti remains a powerful representation of metamorphosis, rebirth, and longevity. As the serpent motif is referential to both Ancient Roman and Ancient Egyptian jewellery design, the Serpenti is a fitting emblem for the most notable Italian jewellery house, especially when they’re at play in the historically Swiss arena of watchmaking. What’s more, the Serpenti has also been spotted on the wrists of stars ranging from Elizabeth Taylor to Zendaya, proving its perennial mystique on the red carpet and beyond.
As 2025 marks the Year of the Snake in the Chinese zodiac, there’s no better time than now to celebrate the legacy of this mesmerizing collection with such a precious example on offer in the Geneva Jewels Auction: IV. A true hallmark of the line dating from the 1950s, this remarkable piece was featured in a 2023 global exhibition celebrating the 75th anniversary of the Sepenti’s conception.
A uniquely enticing Serpenti
Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Holding this piece in the hands, we discover elegant surprises reflecting themes of resilience, regeneration, and transformation inherent to the classical symbol. On the wrist, its coiling bracelet forms itself to the wearer in an embrace, the snake’s scales rendered in brushed gold and accented with marquise-shaped diamonds, adding brilliant-cut diamonds to the head and tail.
Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
But the most fantastical surprises lie on and within the serpent’s stylized head, inviting prolonged admiration. We find ourselves engrossed in the 1.01 carats light pink diamond it wears as a crown and staring deeply into the serpent’s pear-shaped ruby eyes — our own expression mirroring the figure’s enigmatic smile. To lift the snake’s head is to know the joy of tactility and craft, as a delightfully executed silver dial is revealed, indicating the time with gold markers.
Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
And beneath this dial lies the serpent’s beating heart, a mechanical movement by LeCoultre — three syllables that can make even the most stoic watch aficionado swoon. Dating from the late 1950s, the complete experience of this watch is something that remains rare, equally admired by connoisseurs of jewels, fashion, design, and horology of any gender. The longer you spend with it, the more the piece reveals to the eyes and to the mind.
Serpenti History
Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Bulgari introduced the Serpenti motif in the late 1940s, seeking inspiration from Greek and Roman mythology, Ancient Egypt, and Chinese culture. In their early designs, Serpenti watches featured a flexible Tubogas bracelet, which allowed the pieces to wrap elegantly around the wrist like a coiled snake. The dial was meticulously concealed within the reptile’s head, a testament to Bulgari’s ingenuity, flair, and innovation.
From the 1950s onwards, the Serpenti collection evolved, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. This included the introduction of new features, such as scales applied with polychrome enamel, additional coils added to the snake’s body, and bracelets embellished with diamonds and gemstones, as seen in the present lot.
With time, the naturalistic serpent motif became increasingly stylized, and more sophisticated movements replaced the snake’s head entirely, some supplied by Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Vacheron Constantin. Until today, Bulgari has continued to reinvent and reimagine its Serpenti design, producing sleek and modern pieces that preserve their unique interpretation of this classical and natural motif.
Bulgari, Gold, Light Pink diamond, ruby and diamond wristwatch, ‘Serpenti’, late 1950s. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
A marriage between realms, fusing jewellery with watchmaking, ancient symbolism with modern aesthetics, this lot emblemizes Serpenti’s timeless appeal and serves as a reminder that true icons are continuously reborn.
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