Lots 324 and 332. Model wearing Galvin. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Exactly 100 years ago in Paris, a revolutionary aesthetic movement was solidified at the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes.
Art Deco, as it would come to be known, was born through experimentation in the early 20th century and eventually transformed the fields of design, architecture, and jewellery forever. Today, its geometric patterns, bold symmetry, and streamlined sophistication are as fresh and recognizable as they were a century ago. As an embodiment of modernity, innovation, and craftsmanship, Art Deco’s core principles also remain highly influential.
With a remarkable selection of pieces dating from this transformative era, The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV offers a moment to reflect on what Art Deco can mean for culture and taste today.
Cartier: A new tradition
Lot 330: Cartier, Onyx and diamond jabot brooch. Estimate CHF3,500–5,000 / US$4,000–6,000, No Reserve. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
When considering Art Deco jewellery, no name springs to mind faster than Cartier. Always at the forefront of design, Cartier’s Art Deco era spans roughly from 1910 to 1930, making the maison one of the first to explore this uncharted territory.
Lot 333: Cartier, Diamond brooch, circa 1925. Estimate: CHF13,000–18,000 / US$15,000–20,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Seeking to distance his maison from the principles of Art Nouveau, Louis Cartier led early experiments that brought the simplicity of modern design to jewellery, favoring geometric motifs and incorporating grid, square, and checkerboard patterns into his collections. As these design hallmarks have remained emblematic of Cartier ever since, it can be surprising to imagine just how avant-garde these designs were when they were new.
Platinum: Where artistry meets industry
Lot 332: Chaumet, Pair of diamond earrings, circa 1934. Estimate: CHF35,000–52,000 / US$40,000–60,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
The modern era ushered in new industrial technologies that allowed jewellers to work with platinum in ways previously prohibited by the precious metal’s high melting point. Platinum’s strength allowed for intricate, lightweight settings that enhanced geometric form and openwork design. Across these platinum lots, jewellery-making flair and historical significance combine with the material’s rarity in pieces that reward the wearer.
Lot 328: Janesich, Rock crystal and diamond brooch, 1920s. Estimate: CHF2,600–4,500 / US$3,000–5,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Henri Picq: A brave designer’s new world
Lot 324: Cartier, Diamond brooch, circa 1910, French maker's mark for Henry Picq. Estimate: CHF18,000–26,000 / US$20,000–30,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
With the onset of Art Deco, craftsmen rose to the fore, and perhaps none is more lauded than Henri Picq who produced some of the most exquisite platinum jewellery pieces of the time. His work bears many hallmarks of Art Deco design, including delicate millegrain detailing and masterful use of negative space. His atelier, which was closely linked to Cartier, created ornate diamond-set pieces that defined the maison’s aesthetic during their successful collaboration.
Lot 334: Cartier, Diamond and enamel brooch, circa 1930. Estimate: CHF45,000–70,000 / US$50,000–80,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Art Deco lives on
Lot 331: Pair of natural pearl, onyx and diamond earrings. Estimate: CHF13,000–22,000 / US$15,000–25,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
Many things draw us in as jewellery lovers — elegance, cultural value, rarity, historical significance, natural wonder, and — some would say most importantly — design.
As we look back on 100 years of Art Deco design, the wide-reaching influence of this imaginative era remains as relevant and captivating as ever. From technical breakthroughs to audacious artistry, today we can rediscover one of the most iconic movements in the history of jewellery. And with this auction, now is the time to make some of that history your own.
Lot 337: Laloche, Agate, enamel, sapphire and diamond desk timepiece. Estimate: CHF12,000–18,000 / US$14,000–20,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV.
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