Welcome to our series highlighting the exceptional watches available through PERPETUAL, Phillips’ boutique service offering immediate access to the world’s rarest and most desirable timepieces. You can view all currently available watches by stopping in at our London headquarters at 30 Berkeley Square, or by visiting Phillips PERPETUAL online. Our new "Buy Now" button makes acquiring the watch of your dreams easier than ever.
– ˜By Logan Baker
Fine watchmaking is a playground for innovation, and few independent watchmakers push the boundaries like H. Moser & Cie. and Urwerk.
Both brands have built reputations on their ability to defy convention — Moser with its blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design, Urwerk with its unapologetic embrace of sci-fi aesthetics and mechanical ingenuity.
Today, we pit two of their most visually arresting creations against each other: the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and the Urwerk UR-105 TA Red Gold. Two watches that couldn’t be more different, yet both embody the essence of high-end independent watchmaking in their own unique ways. And both are available now for immediate purchase from Phillips PERPETUAL in London.
The Contenders: A Brief Introduction
The H. Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is a masterclass in three-dimensional watchmaking, featuring a prominently displayed cylindrical tourbillon and a partially open-worked dial that places Moser’s signature fumé aesthetics alongside a movement with undeniable architectural presence. It remains true to the Pioneer line’s ethos of daily wearability while pushing skeletonization to new heights.
On the other side of the spectrum, the Urwerk UR-105 TA Red Gold is a bold, futuristic take on timekeeping, powered by Urwerk’s famous satellite time display. A combination of opulence and industrial aggression, the UR-105 Red Gold pairs its innovative movement with a striking red gold bezel, lending a touch of classic luxury to Urwerk’s typically avant-garde approach.
Design & Aesthetics
The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton embraces Moser’s distinctive aesthetic — sleek yet deeply technical. The 42.8mm stainless steel case may sound large on paper, but Moser has sculpted it in such a way that it wears surprisingly well. The highlight, of course, is the cylindrical tourbillon at six o’clock, dancing under the sapphire crystal in hypnotic fashion. The floating sub-dial at 12 o’clock, finished in Moser’s signature Funky Blue fumé, provides a touch of familiarity amidst the mechanical complexity. Chamfered bridges, anthracite PVD finishing, and a skeletonized gold rotor round out the visual spectacle.
Urwerk’s UR-105 Red Gold, on the other hand, is an unapologetic statement piece. At 39.5mm in width and 53mm in length, it has presence — but thanks to Urwerk’s ergonomic case design, it remains surprisingly wearable. The 16.8mm thickness may deter some, but the trade-off is worth it: the satellite hour display, powered by a ruthenium-coated ARCAP carousel, is a mesmerizing feat of mechanical ingenuity. The red gold bezel adds a touch of inspired elegance, making it one of the more visually luxurious pieces in Urwerk’s catalogue.
Mechanical Innovation
Where Moser relies on historical horological techniques refined to modern perfection, Urwerk looks to the future with its proprietary satellite display system.
The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is powered by the HMC 811 movement, a self-winding caliber that employs a cylindrical hairspring, a feature rarely seen in modern wristwatches. Originally developed for marine chronometers, the cylindrical hairspring offers superior isochronism by oscillating concentrically, reducing positional errors. The addition of a one-minute flying tourbillon enhances precision further, while the skeletonized architecture ensures that the inner workings remain on full display.
Urwerk’s UR-105 TA Red Gold takes a completely different approach. The time is displayed via rotating satellites, a hallmark of the brand. Four arms, each bearing three numerals, rotate as they move past the minute track, creating an unconventional yet highly legible display. Powering it all is an automatic movement regulated by dual air turbines, which control winding efficiency. The wearer can select between three winding modes — Full, Reduced, and Stop — allowing for personalized energy management.
Wearability & Practicality
Despite being a highly complicated watch, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton remains remarkably wearable. A stainless steel case, a screw-down crown, and 120 meters of water resistance make it one of the few tourbillon-equipped watches suitable for daily use (and a swim in the pool). The 42.8mm case size is balanced by Moser’s signature curved lugs, ensuring comfort on the wrist.
The UR-105 Red Gold is no shrinking violet, but Urwerk’s experience in ergonomic case design prevents it from feeling cumbersome. The 53mm lug-to-lug distance means it wears large, yet the titanium caseback keeps it lightweight. The red gold bezel, though luxurious, does little to affect the watch’s daily practicality. However, with a thickness of 16.8mm, it may struggle to slip under a cuff.
Collector Appeal
Both watches cater to collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, but they appeal to different sensibilities.
H. Moser’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is a connoisseur’s piece, blending old-world techniques with contemporary styling. The cylindrical tourbillon is an impressive feat of horology, and Moser’s meticulous finishing ensures it remains a joy to examine up close. For those who appreciate traditional craftsmanship but want something a little different, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton delivers in spades.
Urwerk’s UR-105 Red Gold is a statement piece through and through. It’s for the collector who values audacity and innovation over tradition. The satellite time display is quintessential Urwerk, and the gold bezel elevates it into the realm of luxury watchmaking. It’s not a conventional watch, nor does it pretend to be — it’s a mechanical art piece designed to spark conversation.
The Verdict
Choosing between these two watches is less about technical superiority and more about personal preference. If you’re drawn to the elegance of traditional watchmaking with a modern twist, the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is the choice for you. It offers a fascinating blend of heritage, precision, and daily wearability that few tourbillon-equipped watches can match.
On the other hand, if you crave mechanical ingenuity wrapped in a package that defies convention, the Urwerk UR-105 TA Red Gold is an undeniable contender. It’s a celebration of Urwerk’s signature design language, elevated with just the right touch of splendor.
In the end, both watches are testaments to the creativity of independent watchmaking.
Whether your heart leans towards the poetic beauty of Moser’s cylindrical tourbillon or the bold mechanical artistry of Urwerk’s satellite display, one thing is certain: the world of watchmaking is all the richer for their existence.
You can learn more about the above models and view all the currently in-stock watches online at Phillips PERPETUAL.
Phillips PERPETUAL offers a boutique experience to clients for both the sale and purchase of fine and rare watches, in London’s Berkeley Square and the Gstaad Palace, in Switzerland.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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