Our final live auction of the fall 2024 season, the New York Watch Auction: XI, takes place on December 7-8, at our Manhattan headquarters. The auction includes 180 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it’s one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll highlight several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next few weeks, including the watches highlighted in this article.
- Photos and Text by Arthur Touchot
It’s not every day that you come across a watch collaboration that feels truly meaningful. Sure, partnerships in the luxury world are common, but the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland” stands out. It’s not just a beautiful timepiece—it’s a story, one that spans centuries of craftsmanship, innovation, and a little bit of serendipity. And I was lucky enough to witness the early stages of this journey.
The idea for the project came from William Newman, a long-time collaborator with F.P. Journe and someone who had a knack for seeing connections others might overlook. Back when William presented the project to me, in 2016, I was living in London. What I didn’t realize at the time was that I also lived on the same street as Holland & Holland’s factory. There was no signage outside—just a quiet, unassuming red-brick building that blended into the neighbourhood. It wasn’t until this project came along that I discovered what lay behind those walls.
The story began with a visit to the Holland & Holland boutique, now the London flagship for F.P. Journe, managed by Shawn Mehta. After spending some time there, I was told that a driver would take me to the factory to meet William. When the car pulled up to my street, I thought there must have been a mistake. I told the driver we hadn’t been to the factory yet, but he simply smiled and pointed to the very building I used to walk by every day. Imagine my surprise when I realized that the Holland & Holland headquarters had been hiding in plain sight at the end of my street. Inside, the factory was a revelation.
At first, I was struck by the hum of CNC machines—precise and efficient, but not entirely unfamiliar, as I had seen similar set ups in some of the bigger watch manufacturing sites. It wasn’t until William and I moved up the floors, into smaller ateliers, that I began to see the artistry that sets Holland & Holland apart.
Craftsmen worked painstakingly by hand, cutting and calibrating gun barrels, engraving intricate designs, and applying decorative finishes with a precision that reminded me of watchmaking’s finest traditions.
One of the most fascinating moments of our visit was following the transformation of barrel number 1382, one of two selected for the project. This barrel, dating back to 1868, was carefully disassembled.
First it was detached from the gunstock, before the steel was cut into smaller sections, which were then hand hammered flat. Each step was as meticulous as the last, ensuring that the character of the material and the patterns of the unique Damascus were preserved.
From there, the steel travelled to Les Cadraniers de Genève, where F.P. Journe’s artisans took over the project, using their know-how to transform the raw material into beautiful dials. The flattened steel was cut once again into perfectly round dials and treated with a “browning” process, to bring out the natural beauty of the steel, and emphasize its unique patterns. The result was stunning: no two dials were alike, and each carried a piece of history.
The Chronomètre Bleu had long been the star of F.P. Journe’s Classique collection, prized for its simplicity and elegance. But the Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland” took the series in a completely new direction. It was rugged yet refined, historical yet modern. The choice of steel for the case—a rarity for Journe—felt intentional, grounding the watch and harmonizing with the textured dials.
As much as I enjoyed documenting the project, the story remained incomplete during my time at Hodinkee. The dials took longer to produce than anticipated, and by the time F.P. Journe was ready to launch, I had already moved to Geneva to join Phillips. The experience stayed with me, though, and I carried the photos I’d taken during my visit—images that have remained on a hard drive for nearly a decade. Now, for the first time, those photos are being shared exclusively through Phillips, bringing this story to light in a way that feels deeply personal.
There’s one more twist to this tale. At the time of the collaboration, Holland & Holland was owned by Chanel, and it’s perhaps no coincidence the French luxury house, following the success of this collaboration, decided to invest directly into F.P. Journe future a few years later, acquiring a minority stake in the watchmaker in 2018.
But back to the Holland & Holland series. With only 66 dials produced—28 from barrel 7183 and 38 from barrel 1382—the watches were as exclusive as they were innovative. I remember being struck by the subtle differences between the dials from each barrel. Barrel 7183’s patterns felt slightly more defined to me, though it’s a matter of personal taste. What’s undeniable is that each dial is fascinating to look at under the loupe.
I always suspected these pieces would resonate, but seeing them come to auction now feels more like a quiet affirmation of how well-crafted ideas—rooted in heritage and executed with precision—can stand the test of time
Looking back, the Chronomètre Souverain “Holland & Holland” is more than just a watch to me. It’s a story of discovery—of finding hidden artistry at the end of my street, of watching history come alive in a factory, and of seeing two storied crafts come together in a way that felt both natural and extraordinary.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips New York Watch Auction: XI catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.